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Wire up an new Immersion,help required please

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  • 29-01-2013 1:35pm
    #1
    McKeane
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭


    Hi,would be greatful for any help.We have just got an new indirect cyclinder tank 42x18 fitted by the plumber,previously was a direct 42 x18,didnt realize till after we purchased,was previously to a stove also but that has gone. and he also wire up a new immersion switch.

    Can somebody please advise if the switch is wired up ok-Dual switch-as per picture?

    Immersion came pre-wired as per picture?

    Elemex 27" immersion heater/11" thermostat fitted.as per diagram that came with immersion,from flex connect brown-heater terminal.black-heater terminal.Blue-Neutral.Earth-earth.Link wire from thermostat ?

    Also the flex that came with the immersion was to short ,so plumber fitted an extra piece of flex with cable connector to switch,is this ok?

    When we put the switch to bath for 2 hours,we only get about 1/4 bath full of hottish water then turns cold.water also dosnt seem hot enough,can put your hand in.
    The thermastat on the immersion is set to 6o. no kids in the house.should this be higher goes to 80?

    I have searhed boards.ie,re past posts,about other switches & immersion,but not sure if ours is correct.Have had no immersion since before xmas,and would be very greatful for any help.Please let me know if any other pics are required,put the pipe is allocated just above immersion,so quite hard to get a good pic.Thanks

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    #2
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Its wired right anyway, the only thing I cant tell from the photos is whether the bath and sink are the right way around.

    A quick look at the meter will show that. With as little else on in the house, just get someone to switch from bath to sink, and see that the meter is a little faster when bath is selected.

    If not, swap brown and black in the switch, with the MCB off.

    You should connect an earth to the steel back box as well, from the switch earth terminal.


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    #3
    McKeane
    Registered Users Posts: 4 ✭McKeane


    Thanks for your reply bruthal.i have checked the meter when sink is on,then checked when bath is on,goes quicker on bath as per wiring.

    Would you know why we are only getting a 1/4 of a tank of hottish water when its on bath for 2 hours? is this long enough for the size of tank? also is thermostat ok at 60oc or can this be highed.Thanks for the advise.


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    #4
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    McKeane wrote: »
    Thanks for your reply bruthal.i have checked the meter when sink is on,then checked when bath is on,goes quicker on bath as per wiring.

    Would you know why we are only getting a 1/4 of a tank of hottish water when its on bath for 2 hours? is this long enough for the size of tank? also is thermostat ok at 60oc or can this be highed.Thanks for the advise.

    The usual causes of only heating the top part of the cylinder is the thermostat being set too low, or bath and sink mixed up, as the sink element is shorter, so heats less water.

    Around 60 c is the usual setting. You could try it up to 65 and see if that makes any difference.

    I have seen where elements have went faulty as well, and then heat the water very slowly. Is there an RCD on the immersion, as in is its MCB beside the socket ones? If so, the element is likely ok.


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    #5
    jimmyw
    Registered Users Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    I dont know if your heater terminals are marked, but the black wire is connected to the large element (Bath), and therefore the brown is connected to the other terminal (Sink).The neutral (blue) wire is connected to the thermostat, while the other side of that is connected to the the other side of the elements that have the "jump" connected in.

    If the terminals are not marked, and you know your way round a multimeter check the resistance of each terminal and the jump connection.The higher value is the large element.You could of course do as was mentioned already, and check the speed of wheel on the meter if that's what you have.

    P.S the green/yellow wire is connected to the outside metal of the heater.

    I hope all that makes sense:p


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    #6
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    jimmyw wrote: »
    If the terminals are not marked, and you know your way round a multimeter check the resistance of each terminal and the jump connection.The higher value is the large element.You could of course do as was mentioned already, and check the speed of wheel on the meter if that's what you have.

    The large element (bath) will be the lower value, about 17 ohms,compared to about 26 ohms for the sink element.


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    #7
    jimmyw
    Registered Users Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Bruthal wrote: »
    The large element (bath) will be the lower value, about 17 ohms,compared to about 26 ohms for the sink element.

    But would the larger element not have more resistance?


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    #8
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    jimmyw wrote: »
    But would the larger element not have more resistance?

    No it has less. The bath element is 3kw, the sink 2kw. Its not simply a longer piece of the same resistance wire in the bath element than the sink, the bath one is a lower resistance per meter than the sink one.

    A 230v 3kw element takes 13 amps, the 2 kw one takes 8.7 amps.

    So the bath element is around 17 to 18 ohms, while the smaller sink one is about 26 to 27 ohms. Thats why the meter will rotate faster with the bath element, as its lower resistance is taking a higher current.


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