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new dog owner - some questions

2

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭ABajaninCork


    El Kabong! wrote: »
    If you had a pen, training crate, and carry crate (with blankets inside), then where would you put this basket?

    I do plan to have a basket/bed in the kitchen for then the dog is in there.

    Don't know about you, but the crate's in the kitchen and the dog's basket in the living room...


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 786 ✭✭✭fangee


    DBB wrote: »
    In fairness now fangee, the advice that Maggiepip gave came pretty close to what a properly qualified professional would tell the OP to do. It's just this simple: dogs have a biological need to be with their humans, and to deprive them of this social contact by leaving them outdoors for hours on end is as cruel to the dog as not feeding it is.
    Your talk of making sure the pup "knows its place" is somewhat outdated, indeed often harmful. Have a look at www.dogwelfarecampaign.org.uk so you can see why teaching a pup it's place is long-since abandoned as an approach to training.

    You're assuming I'm advocating some sort of punishment when I say "know it's place". I'm not.

    It's a fairly natural process. We've been buddies for a few thousand years now.

    I don't think it complicated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,208 ✭✭✭fatmammycat


    It's complicated enough, Fangee, that millions of people get it wrong and can't keep their dogs any longer. Best to start off on the right foot and keep it there, no?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    You'll excuse my assumption, it's just that when people use the language of "teaching pup it's place", and acting as "master/leader" are usually of the Cesar Milan school of dog bothering. Apologies if I have jumped to the wrong conclusions as a result of the language you used.
    So, if you're not posting from the CM school of dog bothering, what do you advise when you say to put a puppy in it's place?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55


    Sorry for jumping in here op but im just looking for a bit of advice we have a dog about 6 mths old we have her about 3mths she is a beagle woulld i be able to crate train her at this age as she is not house trained at all she spends most of the time in the yard and sleeps in the shed we would like to be able to have her indoors without desroying the place also she is red mad totally wild when she does come in and just goes nuts around the place up on couches etc and she never stops play biting ever how do we go about calming her down?? So thats 2 thing house training and calming down we really want her to be part of the family as the kids are mad about her any advice please


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,208 ✭✭✭fatmammycat


    shamrock55 wrote: »
    Sorry for jumping in here op but im just looking for a bit of advice we have a dog about 6 mths old we have her about 3mths she is a beagle woulld i be able to crate train her at this age as she is not house trained at all she spends most of the time in the yard and sleeps in the shed we would like to be able to have her indoors without desroying the place also she is red mad totally wild when she does come in and just goes nuts around the place up on couches etc and she never stops play biting ever how do we go about calming her down?? So thats 2 thing house training and calming down we really want her to be part of the family as the kids are mad about her any advice please

    Most young dog are mad as hatters inside if they're not normally allowed in, the excitement drives them bonkers. It's a chicken and egg situation, she needs to be in to be calm, but you'd like her to be calm to be in.
    In your case, I'd try do this in stages. I'd take her for her morning walk, burn off some of that energy and when she's calmed down some, head back to the hosue, maybe feed her inside, perhaps in the kitchen, let her mooch around and settle as much as possible in that room, before allowing her access to entire house. Repeat and repeat until being inside is not such a 'big deal'. I'd do all this before I even through about the crate. She's needs to be used to being in the house first before the crate in the house, so to speak.
    The play biting is all part and parcel of sheer excitment. And honestly, the best thing you can do is NOT play with a dog play biting. Ignore or the moment she bites, resume play when she's calmer. And everyone in the house should follow this, not just you and your partner.
    It's just patience and routine that calms any dog, consistent patterns. You'll have a nicer dog at the end of it that the whole family can enjoy.
    Best of luck.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 786 ✭✭✭fangee


    DBB wrote: »
    You'll excuse my assumption, it's just that when people use the language of "teaching pup it's place", and acting as "master/leader" are usually of the Cesar Milan school of dog bothering. Apologies if I have jumped to the wrong conclusions as a result of the language you used.
    So, if you're not posting from the CM school of dog bothering, what do you advise when you say to put a puppy in it's place?

    DBB. I promised the OP earlier that I wouldn't post again as I didn't want to ruin the thread but I need to answer your question (sorry op).

    I've had dogs as pets since I was a kid. I would always advise to not have just one dog as two or more means they socialise better and more importantly they have a friend that is with them ALL the time.

    I have seen some crazy things over the years that I believe led to behavioural problems and it does come from a lack of discipline in many cases.

    I've been in houses where dogs sleep in beds, eat from cereal bowls on a coffee table and these dogs had some shocking behaviour. I believe it is a territorial thing. These dogs had called the shots from day one and would growl at you if you were eating. Would snap at you if you refused access to certain parts of the house and so on.

    This kind of behaviour is not fair on the dog. It doesn't know any better. It's doing what it's been taught/allowed to do.

    I've never had those problems. You can correct a dog without hitting it. Dogs WANT to please you. A different tone will let a puppy know what is acceptable to you and what is not. It will then "learn it's place" in the pecking order.

    That pecking order is that you are responsible for the dogs actions and you feed and take care of it. As such you ARE the boss.

    Sorry again OP. My initial (my first post on this thread was a response) attempt at humour didn't come across well.

    I hope you get all the info you need but I'd recommend you don't over think it and trust your instincts.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    shamrock55 wrote: »
    Sorry for jumping in here op but im just looking for a bit of advice we have a dog about 6 mths old we have her about 3mths she is a beagle woulld i be able to crate train her at this age as she is not house trained at all she spends most of the time in the yard and sleeps in the shed we would like to be able to have her indoors without desroying the place also she is red mad totally wild when she does come in and just goes nuts around the place up on couches etc and she never stops play biting ever how do we go about calming her down?? So thats 2 thing house training and calming down we really want her to be part of the family as the kids are mad about her any advice please

    Great to hear Shamrock!
    It tends to be an issue for many owners that they'd love to have their dog inside, but the dog acts like a loon when she is let in, so she's put back out again!
    Having the dog with you as much as you can is so important for her wellbeing: that's not to say that you have to be interacting all the time.. just being together is fine for the dog.
    But you've got to have some control when you do let her in. So, here's what I'd suggest.
    First of all, the crate is a great training tool from the point of view of housetraining (and no, you dog is not too old, the crate can be used to housetrain a dog of any age), but also as a place she goes to chill out whilst she's inside... say, when you want to eat dinner, or a have a few minutes to yourself, or when she's walked, fed and it's time to settle down and watch TV, the crate is just brilliant for this sort of thing. If she'#s to be in there for longer than a few minutes, set her up with a nice stuffed Kong Toy, so that she's not sitting there wondering what to do (for some Kong recipes, try www.kongcompany.com), also other chews like stag bars (antlers), and dried animal parts (liver, tripe, ears etc) are great distraction chews.
    However, what when she's not in the crate? Using a houseline is a great management tool: by a houseline, I mean a light lead attached to her collar. Never leave this on her when she's unsupervised, for safety's sake.
    When she comes in, ask her to sit, and do not pet her until she has sat. Same goes for the rest of the family. Persist with this rule: no attention until she's calm.
    This next bit will be easiest at first if it's just you in the house, no kids or others to wind her up. When she gets the idea, you can start to practise when the kids are home, using the lead to control her around them (rather than having to make flying leaps to grab her collar!)
    To calm her, when she comes in, get yourself a chair, lead her over beside you, and stand on the lead so that it's long enough to let her stand, but not so long that she can get wrapped around anything. Now, she may struggle, whine and give out, but you can just ignore her: there's not much she can do!
    Eventually, they invariably calm down, and either sit or lie down. Now, straight away, tell her she's fab and pet her calmly and gently.
    She may jump up again now, so you go straight back into ignore mode, with your foot still on the lead.
    When she calms down, again the calm petting and praise.
    Eventually, the penny will drop with her that calm behaviour gets attention for her, whereas silly behaviour gets her ignored.
    You can eventually dispense with the lead altogether. And any time you see her voluntarily calming down, without the lead on, praise her and pet her calmly. At the moment, acting like a looper is working better for her than behaving calmly is, so you need to reverse that, and make the calm behaviour rewarding, but the loopy behaviour not!
    As she gets used to being inside, she'll calm down anyway, as the novelty value of getting to be inside wears off.

    Re crate training, there's loads of advice on this forum elsewhere if you do a search (it'll save me writing it out again:o), or have a look at the puppy training section of www.dogstardaily.com. This website has a playpen and crate system, which is my personal preference too, but you don't have to do the playpen bit of you don't have room.

    So, when she's free in the house, for now, leave the lead attached so that you can quickly get control over her. And, get her used to settling on her bed in the crate when you need to get her offside a while.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55



    Most young dog are mad as hatters inside if they're not normally allowed in, the excitement drives them bonkers. It's a chicken and egg situation, she needs to be in to be calm, but you'd like her to be calm to be in.
    In your case, I'd try do this in stages. I'd take her for her morning walk, burn off some of that energy and when she's calmed down some, head back to the hosue, maybe feed her inside, perhaps in the kitchen, let her mooch around and settle as much as possible in that room, before allowing her access to entire house. Repeat and repeat until being inside is not such a 'big deal'. I'd do all this before I even through about the crate. She's needs to be used to being in the house first before the crate in the house, so to speak.
    The play biting is all part and parcel of sheer excitment. And honestly, the best thing you can do is NOT play with a dog play biting. Ignore or the moment she bites, resume play when she's calmer. And everyone in the house should follow this, not just you and your partner.
    It's just patience and routine that calms any dog, consistent patterns. You'll have a nicer dog at the end of it that the whole family can enjoy.
    Best of luck.

    Thanks for that but the thing is when she is in for any length of time she ends up going to the loo somewhere can i ask with the crate do they just sleep on the plastic base or do you put bedding down do they use the crate as a toilet ie not the kitchen floor is that how it works or do they like cry in the crate to be left out to go to the loo i havent a clue to be fair lol


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    fangee wrote: »
    I've had dogs as pets since I was a kid. I would always advise to not have just one dog as two or more means they socialise better and more importantly they have a friend that is with them ALL the time.

    Lots of us have had pets since we were kids!
    Many dogs like the company of another dog. Some dogs couldn't give a hoot or would really prefer not to live with other dogs. Almost all dogs prefer human company to that of other dogs. Having a second dog somewhat eases loneliness for many dogs, but it is not a remedy for keeping the dogs outside with not enough human contact. I'm assuming you're advocating keeping the dog outside, based on your first post.
    I've been in houses where dogs sleep in beds, eat from cereal bowls on a coffee table and these dogs had some shocking behaviour. I believe it is a territorial thing. These dogs had called the shots from day one and would growl at you if you were eating. Would snap at you if you refused access to certain parts of the house and so on.

    I can guarantee you I've seen just as many dogs who live outside and don't have enough human contact who display what you describe, it's called resource guarding. Sometimes, it's because the pup has been allowed away with blue murder. Sometimes, it's because no training has been done. Most of the cases of resource guarding I see, personally, are in pups who were reared outside in a shed, fed communally from one food bowl, not given enough attention or resources, and have been given an excuse for guarding what they perceive as valuable to them.
    There are also some breeds with a disposition to resource guard. The Westie is one of them.
    Are you claiming that dogs who live inside have more behavioural problems? My experience is the reverse.
    I've never had those problems. You can correct a dog without hitting it. Dogs WANT to please you. A different tone will let a puppy know what is acceptable to you and what is not. It will then "learn it's place" in the pecking order.

    My dogs have always lived inside, and allowed up on furniture, and sometimes in the bed, and I have never had an issue either. I can guarantee there are loads of others here who'll tell you the same.
    I think it's incredibly egotistical to say dogs WANT to please us. Do they? I'm more inclined to think they want to get the best out of any given situation with us. They may WANT to be friends with us. But to "please" us? I doubt it. If that was the case, there'd surely be far fewer behavioural problems in dogs.
    That pecking order is that you are responsible for the dogs actions and you feed and take care of it. As such you ARE the boss.

    Yes, okay... so what do you do when your dog does something really unacceptable, and won't stop when you say "No" in a stern tone of voice? How do you tell your dog you're "the boss" then?
    [/QUOTE]


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,208 ✭✭✭fatmammycat


    shamrock55 wrote: »
    Thanks for that but the thing is when she is in for any length of time she ends up going to the loo somewhere can i ask with the crate do they just sleep on the plastic base or do you put bedding down do they use the crate as a toilet ie not the kitchen floor is that how it works or do they like cry in the crate to be left out to go to the loo i havent a clue to be fair lol

    For the unbroken house dog, it's really a matter of watching them and either reading their body language and letting them out to pee/poo before the accident, or catching them in the act and bringing them out straight out.
    Most people I know that have crates (I never used one, my lad alway content to sleep on a rug and in his bed) have bedding in them, as dogs generally won't mess their beds. However, you've a bit of work to do before using the crate fully it seems. If she's not housetrained at all, you've to treat her like you would a small puppy, let her out a lot, loads of praise wheh she pees outside, and allow for small accidents and keep calm(easier said than done I know some days :) )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55



    For the unbroken house dog, it's really a matter of watching them and either reading their body language and letting them out to pee/poo before the accident, or catching them in the act and bringing them out straight out.
    Most people I know that have crates (I never used one, my lad alway content to sleep on a rug and in his bed) have bedding in them, as dogs generally won't mess their beds. However, you've a bit of work to do before using the crate fully it seems. If she's not housetrained at all, you've to treat her like you would a small puppy, let her out a lot, loads of praise wheh she pees outside, and allow for small accidents and keep calm(easier said than done I know some days :) )

    Cheers for that if i keep putting her out ever half hour say or everytime she starts to go indoors will she eventually realise she is not ment to go inside i remember when we had dogs when i was younger we never had crates for the dogs and they were grand when indoors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55



    Most young dog are mad as hatters inside if they're not normally allowed in, the excitement drives them bonkers. It's a chicken and egg situation, she needs to be in to be calm, but you'd like her to be calm to be in.
    In your case, I'd try do this in stages. I'd take her for her morning walk, burn off some of that energy and when she's calmed down some, head back to the hosue, maybe feed her inside, perhaps in the kitchen, let her mooch around and settle as much as possible in that room, before allowing her access to entire house. Repeat and repeat until being inside is not such a 'big deal'. I'd do all this before I even through about the crate. She's needs to be used to being in the house first before the crate in the house, so to speak.
    The play biting is all part and parcel of sheer excitment. And honestly, the best thing you can do is NOT play with a dog play biting. Ignore or the moment she bites, resume play when she's calmer. And everyone in the house should follow this, not just you and your partner.
    It's just patience and routine that calms any dog, consistent patterns. You'll have a nicer dog at the end of it that the whole family can enjoy.
    Best of luck.

    Thanks for that im gonna need alot of patience id say


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55


    DBB wrote: »

    Great to hear Shamrock!
    It tends to be an issue for many owners that they'd love to have their dog inside, but the dog acts like a loon when she is let in, so she's put back out again!
    Having the dog with you as much as you can is so important for her wellbeing: that's not to say that you have to be interacting all the time.. just being together is fine for the dog.
    But you've got to have some control when you do let her in. So, here's what I'd suggest.
    First of all, the crate is a great training tool from the point of view of housetraining (and no, you dog is not too old, the crate can be used to housetrain a dog of any age), but also as a place she goes to chill out whilst she's inside... say, when you want to eat dinner, or a have a few minutes to yourself, or when she's walked, fed and it's time to settle down and watch TV, the crate is just brilliant for this sort of thing. If she'#s to be in there for longer than a few minutes, set her up with a nice stuffed Kong Toy, so that she's not sitting there wondering what to do (for some Kong recipes, try www.kongcompany.com), also other chews like stag bars (antlers), and dried animal parts (liver, tripe, ears etc) are great distraction chews.
    However, what when she's not in the crate? Using a houseline is a great management tool: by a houseline, I mean a light lead attached to her collar. Never leave this on her when she's unsupervised, for safety's sake.
    When she comes in, ask her to sit, and do not pet her until she has sat. Same goes for the rest of the family. Persist with this rule: no attention until she's calm.
    This next bit will be easiest at first if it's just you in the house, no kids or others to wind her up. When she gets the idea, you can start to practise when the kids are home, using the lead to control her around them (rather than having to make flying leaps to grab her collar!)
    To calm her, when she comes in, get yourself a chair, lead her over beside you, and stand on the lead so that it's long enough to let her stand, but not so long that she can get wrapped around anything. Now, she may struggle, whine and give out, but you can just ignore her: there's not much she can do!
    Eventually, they invariably calm down, and either sit or lie down. Now, straight away, tell her she's fab and pet her calmly and gently.
    She may jump up again now, so you go straight back into ignore mode, with your foot still on the lead.
    When she calms down, again the calm petting and praise.
    Eventually, the penny will drop with her that calm behaviour gets attention for her, whereas silly behaviour gets her ignored.
    You can eventually dispense with the lead altogether. And any time you see her voluntarily calming down, without the lead on, praise her and pet her calmly. At the moment, acting like a looper is working better for her than behaving calmly is, so you need to reverse that, and make the calm behaviour rewarding, but the loopy behaviour not!
    As she gets used to being inside, she'll calm down anyway, as the novelty value of getting to be inside wears off.

    Re crate training, there's loads of advice on this forum elsewhere if you do a search (it'll save me writing it out again:o), or have a look at the puppy training section of www.dogstardaily.com. This website has a playpen and crate system, which is my personal preference too, but you don't have to do the playpen bit of you don't have room.

    So, when she's free in the house, for now, leave the lead attached so that you can quickly get control over her. And, get her used to settling on her bed in the crate when you need to get her offside a while.

    Great advice thank you so much ill give the lead thing a go to try calm the crazy creature down a bit!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭mav79


    http://www.zooplus.ie/shop/dogs/dog_cages_carriers/carriers/metal_cages_and_boxes/129680

    This is very like the crate we bought nearly three years ago for our terrier, the best item we ever spent money on for him. He doesn't use it at home but whenever we visit family or even on camping trips its invaluable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Peetwins


    Oh my goodness. Lots & lots of advice :-). I used a crate for my dogs as pups. Just a crate with a soft blanket. Great for house training but don't leave them in it too long as young dogs. If I am home they are out and about. Crate is in kitchen as they are always part of the family. If visitors come in or we are eating they are in the crate. When kids in bed they are on the couch beside me :-) At night they are in the crate. During the day the door is often open and yet are still in there. It's their bed. I have 4 kids so it's handy for the dogs to have somewhere safe from annoying petters too!

    Good luck and have patience. Can't recommend the crate enough it's great if used properly.

    Personally I would skip the treats. Feed him/her a good quality puppy nut and give him some rawhide chews to cut his teeth on. Too many treats and you will just have runny poos.... time enough to use treats as rewards for more complicated training when he's a wee but older. Sit stay etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,210 ✭✭✭shamrock55


    Can i just ask if i get a crate will the dog goo to the loo in it at night if so would you be constantly cleaning it and the bedding every morning youd want an endless supply of dog blankets!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,302 ✭✭✭**Vai**


    shamrock55 wrote: »
    Can i just ask if i get a crate will the dog goo to the loo in it at night if so would you be constantly cleaning it and the bedding every morning youd want an endless supply of dog blankets!!!

    No. The point of the crate is the dog wont want to go where it sleeps. There may be an accident or 2 at the start but if it keeps up I would bring the dog to the vet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    No it won't, the whole point of the crate is that it doesn't go where it sleeps. So you make sure the pup is taken out often enough so it doesn't go in the crate.
    It's up to you to make sure you take the pup out every so often so they learn to go outside.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    shamrock55 wrote: »
    Can i just ask if i get a crate will the dog goo to the loo in it at night if so would you be constantly cleaning it and the bedding every morning youd want an endless supply of dog blankets!!!

    If you're asking a youngster to go the whole night without needing to toilet, you're asking too much! If the pup is locked into the crate at night, chances are you're going to get the pup toileting on their bed, and you really want to avoid this at all costs.
    So, if pup is to go in the crate for the night, either get up ion the middle of the night to let pup out to pee: this is the hardest option as it means you have to get up, but it is by far and away the most effective. Your pup will be housetrained much quicker this way, as you're making sure there are no accidents. The idea is that you get up say around 3am, and let pup out. If you find that pup has not toileted by this time, then try 4am the next night. Stick at this for a few days, then move it to 5am for a few days, then 6am etc etc. For very young pups, this process takes longer, but I think you said your youngster is 6 months-ish Shamrock? So you can speed things up a little as her physical ability to hold on is better than it would have been when you first got her.
    The other option is to leave the crate open, and leave some newspaper out for her to on: you must not allow the situation to develop that she has to pee in her crate. However, by using newspaper at all, you're also making it a little more difficult for the pup to make to connection between full bladder, and going outside to relieve itself. The pup is learning that she can go to the toilet in the house if need be.
    Getting the pup out each and every time seriously minimises accidents, it's called "error free learning", which means you set the pup up to learn in as realistic, but uncomplicated situation as you can... cut out the middleman of the newspaper, in other words!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 296 ✭✭El Kabong!


    Hi,

    Puppy is at it's new home :)

    I have created a nice pen.

    It seems to associate newspaper with the toilet, although sometimes it has moved off the paper a few seconds too soon, but I want to encourage the newspaper method for now.

    I have been taking the pup over to the newspaper on the hour. Last time, my daughter did it and spend 2 minutes keeping the puppy on the paper... and gave up. 10 seconds later it went!

    I have a concern though.

    This evening, there was a bit of whining, which is understandable. I have been trying very hard not to pay attention while it whines, but give it lots when it is not.

    Right now, it has stopped whining and has gone to bed. Has been quiet now for 20-30 mins
    It's now 1 hour since the last wee/poop, and I am wondering should I take it out for a check, or am I going to be messing with a 2-3hour nap???????

    Any advice?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,208 ✭✭✭fatmammycat


    El Kabong! wrote: »
    Hi,

    Puppy is at it's new home :)

    I have created a nice pen.

    It seems to associate newspaper with the toilet, although sometimes it has moved off the paper a few seconds too soon, but I want to encourage the newspaper method for now.

    I have been taking the pup over to the newspaper on the hour. Last time, my daughter did it and spend 2 minutes keeping the puppy on the paper... and gave up. 10 seconds later it went!

    I have a concern though.

    This evening, there was a bit of whining, which is understandable. I have been trying very hard not to pay attention while it whines, but give it lots when it is not.

    Right now, it has stopped whining and has gone to bed. Has been quiet now for 20-30 mins
    It's now 1 hour since the last wee/poop, and I am wondering should I take it out for a check, or am I going to be messing with a 2-3hour nap???????

    Any advice?

    I'd let the pup sleep, but bring him/her straight out when they wake, as they will probably need to pee. If they wee, LOADS of praise.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    Hi OP,
    Were you not going by the Dog Star Daily guidelines on housetraining, no?
    As I posted above, using newspaper to housetrain a dog is not terrible efficient, and can lead to problem with "reverse housetraining", i.e. coming back into the house to pee, as opposed to doing it outside.
    There's just no substitute for bringing your pup outside regularly: you want pup to toilet outside, so don't deliberately let pup toilet inside! Error-free learning, as referred to above.
    And on that note, do not wake the pup while sleeping: get "it" (why do you refer throughout to "It"? Is it a male or female?) to go out after waking up, after eating, during and after playtime. These are the times pups will most want to go. If you're in the middle of doing something with pup, and you realise that pup is walking away from you unexpectedly, or gets a "distant" look in their eye, bring pup out then, without making a big fuss.
    Don't talk to pup when you go outside: keep all the nice stuff for when he/she is done. Bring treats. When pup eventually goes, speak softly as he/she performs, and once he/she is finished, make a big deal, give pup the treat, and go back inside for a game: this teaches pup not to go back inside until the bladder/bowel feels empty.
    It's all about getting good habits established nice and gently and calmly: don't make life more complicated by paper-training!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,772 ✭✭✭✭Whispered


    Yep OP I would totally recommend against paper training too. You're essentially teaching the pup to do exactly what you don't want it to do (toilet indoors). You end up having to teach them again, practically from scratch. I know it's a pain for now, but well worth it in the long run.

    Pictures are needed!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 296 ✭✭El Kabong!


    I'm not exclusively going by dog star as I can't take it all in in one go. Well, I can, but when it comes to putting it into practice.....


    Anyway, we let her sleep but checked on her every 15 mins. Saw her mooching and brought her over to the newspaper and after a minute she did it!! she got lots of praise and a small treat.

    Over the next few mins she did a wee twice on the paper again.

    I understand now about paper training, but I feel quite good about the fact the she already knows to go where the paper is, most of the time.

    I am only using paper as I'm a little unprepared equipment wise TBH. I was going to use a litter tray with soil in it, and train her to use that indoors. Once she had the hang of that I would move it a little bit outside on the patio...and again once that was OK, over to the eventual toilet spot. Long winded perhaps but that is what I felt comfortable with at the moment.

    Well, I'll think about it a bit more. Perhaps I will try to skip straight to just putting it immediately outside the door. I'm not sure I can get her to wait long enough to get to the eventual toilet spot.

    Pics soon...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    I think it's very unfair on the pup to allow it to go inside then decide then that you want it to go outside.
    If you praise for inside then it will find it very confusing to ask it to go outside.
    Why can't you bring the pup outside when it needs to go?? Surely you can just bring it outside?
    I never recommend people letting the pup go inside as its totally confusing and unfair on the pup.
    I've actually heard of people with dogs that won't go to the toilet at all outside and on walks as they only want to go in the house as that's where they been trained be praised to go. So be very careful what you wish for.
    In my and in everyone else's opinion here, you are asking for trouble with the newspaper....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,553 ✭✭✭mymo


    The trick with house training is to pre empt the pee or poop. Bring the pup out regularly (even in the dark or rain) and try using a command (I use do your business). When the pup wakes up, pick it up and bring it outside and wait for it to go, as you see it go, say the words you want it to associate with going to the toilet, this will eventually become the command to tell the dog to go. When playing inside and you see the signs (sniffing or looking around for a place to go) bring the pup out quick and wait. It can sometimes take a while (once waited 35mins) and praise well, then bring pup back in. It takes time and attention, but does work.
    My two learned in about a week that outside meant praise for toileting, and inside it was ignored. If the pup went inside it was my fault for not paying enough attention.


    Mine now go when I say "do your business" and still get praised when they come back in. We didn't have many accidents, and I used a crate too. It meant getting up 3times a night at the start, but by 4 months both were holding it all night (boy would occasionally bark to go out until 5-6months, but only once or twice a week). It's like having a baby again, don't feed after 6 or so, take out 10 mins or so after food or when pup drinks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭Tranceypoo


    mymo wrote: »
    Bring the pup out regularly (even in the dark or rain) and try using a command (I use do your business).

    .

    I used to sing 'Let's go outside (go outside)...and fade' a la George Michael, a little bit of amusement for myself in the pitch black rainy night...!!

    I've trained both my older rescue dogs to understand 'do wee wees' and 'go poopy' (I do wish I'd used more 'grown up' terms now). Honestly OP, I can only echo what others are saying about training on the newspaper, it's just pointless and you're making more work for yourself by training inside on the paper, then moving paper outside, then eventually taking paper away, not to mention confusing the pup, so much easier to just pre-empt the toilet times (after sleeping, eating and playing usually) by taking pup outside, praisin when they go and back inside, if they have an accident inside then just ignore. Simples.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,772 ✭✭✭✭Whispered


    Tranceypoo wrote: »
    I used to sing 'Let's go outside (go outside)...and fade' a la George Michael, a little bit of amusement for myself in the pitch black rainy night...!!

    Until you're with company and need to use your command. :o


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 9,770 Mod ✭✭✭✭DBB


    Tranceypoo wrote: »

    a little bit of amusement for myself in the pitch black rainy night...!!

    And, indeed, for your neighbours :-D


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