Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Scope

Options
  • 06-02-2013 8:00pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 49


    How's things. I am waiting on a licence for a CZ .22 hornet. Any recommendations on what scope I shud put on it. Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,398 ✭✭✭ormondprop


    Whats your budget


  • Registered Users Posts: 519 ✭✭✭gearoidol


    woodcock89 wrote: »
    How's things. I am waiting on a licence for a CZ .22 hornet. Any recommendations on what scope I shud put on it. Thanks

    i saw a nice hawke endurance 30 with red dot at mike duggans the last day i was back,looked like a nice scope for under the lamp.the endurance 30 has no relation to the older model endurance btw


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 woodcock89


    I was hopeing to get one for around 200-250 here or there abouts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 196 ✭✭no12


    Hard to look past the Bushnell banner you could get a 6-18x50 for around €250 most lads on here swear by them


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,537 ✭✭✭Vizzy


    You have PM


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 49 woodcock89


    Thanks to everyone for all the help. In the end I put a Bushnell banner 6-24x40 that a friend gave me. Would I be better of to shoot at a few targets at different ranges for awhile to get familiar with different ranges before I go make all the foxs lamp shy. Any tips would be very welcome.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,034 ✭✭✭✭It wasn't me!


    First step is to pick a range and zero the scope. Have only a rough idea of the hornet's trajectory off the top of my head so let's pick 150 yards for argument's sake. Once you have it zeroed here, take new aiming marks and shoot at them at 25 yard intervals out to however far you intend shooting. Again, let's say this is 200 yards, for argument's sake. So now you know how far above or below your point of aim the bullet will impact from the muzzle right out to 200 yards. This is your ballistic data.

    After that, go shoot the rifle. A lot. And from the positions you'd use hunting too. That won't always necessarily be prone off a bipod either, so practise shooting standing, dropping quickly into a sitting or kneeling position, using shooting sticks and leaning on fence posts and the like, all at various ranges, while referring back to your ballistic data in order to have it nicely ingrained in your mind so it comes naturally while hunting. Much easier to focus on making a good shot when you firstly know the drop without even thinking about it and secondly have practised a lot from the sort of position you're going to use so again, you don't stress or think about it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,057 ✭✭✭clivej


    First step is to pick a range and zero the scope. Have only a rough idea of the hornet's trajectory off the top of my head so let's pick 150 yards for argument's sake. Once you have it zeroed here, take new aiming marks and shoot at them at 25 yard intervals out to however far you intend shooting. Again, let's say this is 200 yards, for argument's sake. So now you know how far above or below your point of aim the bullet will impact from the muzzle right out to 200 yards. This is your ballistic data.

    After that, go shoot the rifle. A lot. And from the positions you'd use hunting too. That won't always necessarily be prone off a bipod either, so practise shooting standing, dropping quickly into a sitting or kneeling position, using shooting sticks and leaning on fence posts and the like, all at various ranges, while referring back to your ballistic data in order to have it nicely ingrained in your mind so it comes naturally while hunting. Much easier to focus on making a good shot when you firstly know the drop without even thinking about it and secondly have practised a lot from the sort of position you're going to use so again, you don't stress or think about it.


    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Everything IWM says^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 woodcock89


    Thanks lads. The scope is mounted and set at 100 yards so must get another box or 2 of bullets and set up some targets Saturday weather permiting. There is mil dots on the scope are they any help to me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,057 ✭✭✭clivej


    woodcock89 wrote: »
    Thanks lads. The scope is mounted and set at 100 yards so must get another box or 2 of bullets and set up some targets Saturday weather permiting. There is mil dots on the scope are they any help to me.


    First off find out where the mildots are correct at a focus. It may be a dot or red number on the zoom ring.

    Then when you have the different distances worked out you can use them to give you different drops of the bullet at a set range.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    clivej wrote: »
    First off find out where the mildots are correct at a focus. It may be a dot or red number on the zoom ring.

    Then when you have the different distances worked out you can use them to give you different drops of the bullet at a set range.

    V. important point here, if your scope uses mils. Unless you have one of the latest generation of high-price tactical/practical rifle scopes, your mil-dot will only be representative at ONE magnification setting. On my three Nightforce scopes, that is x22, and there is a special hash mark on the zooming ring to tell you.

    None of my other scopes have anything but a regular, non-tactical/practical reticle of some kind.

    tac

    PS - I'm sending this via the cell-phone on a skidoo - ain't technology great?


Advertisement