Aga-T+ positive post hot spot/popping.

Lucutus

I've just had 5 coils in a row pop at the bridge to the top post on this thing.

First coil was fine for a while, but developed a little hot spot, again at the bridge, that I couldn't shift.

Using 0.20 kanthal to make the coil 4 or 5 turns on the vamo at 3.0v to slowly pulse it, ss wick well oxidised etc.

The rage is slowly building.

Help! please help!

superneat

Don't think it comes out in the pic, but my last wick was pulled in really close the the post. There is quite the gap between a straight wick and the post, so try pulling it in closer, it can be touching no bother.

grindle

Push wick as close to the post as can be.

Double back some of the wire and twist it together tightly from the top coil to positive post.

Or wait until the end of next week for your NR Wire.

Green Hornet

I think those Aga coils get messed up easily by screwing the battery on and off. The centre post is kind of floating and can be pushed up thereby unsettling the coil on the wick. That's why the coil might be fine one minute then a hotspot a few hours later. Could be wrong though I suppose!

Lucutus

Aye, tried having it very close to the post, looking at your pic, it seems different somehow...

Did you mirror/flip your pic after it was taken? My wick hole (snigger) and the little post with the screw in it are reversed compared to your pic!

grindle, waiting eh? I might try the twist in it at the top on the next one. Will grab a camera and post a pic of the effort.

grindle

Good point.

Lucutus

Green Hornet wrote: »

I think those Aga coils get messed up easily by screwing the battery on and off. The centre post is kind of floating and can be pushed up thereby unsettling the coil on the wick. That's why the coil might be fine one minute then a hotspot a few hours later. Could be wrong though I suppose!

That gives me an idea, the coils I made all popped really quickly, it might be the batteries, using the stacked aw 18350's. Will try with an efest 18650 instead.

grindle

Are you testing at the lowest voltage?

Lucutus

3.0V, anything more than a 1 second press pops them.

Bubba9

I used to have major problems too with the AGA and the top coil hotspot but got some ribbon kanthal and it solves the problem. Vaping great now

rickyjb

I haven't had any luck setting up my AGA-T, hotspots, no wicking, seriously frustrating...:mad:

Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly? How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.

When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?

Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?

I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).

What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?

grindle

rickyjb wrote: »

Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly?

If the wick is thick enough that no air can get into or out of the tank, wicking will be slower with the screw left in.

rickyjb wrote: »

How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.

Just oxidising the part/s that might touch the tank body or the coil is all that's important.

rickyjb wrote: »

When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?

Shorts. The wick either wasn't oxidised or too much pressure was applied when wrapping wire to wick and cut through the oxidation.

rickyjb wrote: »

Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?

The smallest is used to keep the silicon grommet at the bottom stable, prevents leaks, the other two are what keeps your wire in position.
No idea where you can get them.

rickyjb wrote: »

I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).

You are an absolute lunatic if you've been throwing your mesh away. Lunatic. Not even a little bit joking.

rickyjb wrote: »

What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?

NR wire, yup. For example, if you were to use NR wire from the top coil to the positive post there's zero chance of a hotspot forming there.

Lucutus

Okay tried another couple.

The first had a twisted bridge back to the post from the end of the top coil, popped right where the twisted wire began.

The second was a coil made entirely of twisted wire, which had the same bridge hot spot problem, didn't pop, but had silly low resistance, 0.8Ω, wouldn't fire on the vamo, had to try it on a twist. Very strange to see the bridge lit up bright orange on twisted wire! Would need more than 3 wraps to get right, maybe 5 or even 6 if I could fit it.

One last go...

Mr. Chrome

rickyjb wrote: »

I haven't had any luck setting up my AGA-T, hotspots, no wicking, seriously frustrating...:mad:

Couple of questions - do you need to leave the filler screw off for it to wick properly? How important is it to completely oxidise the mesh, I don't have a blowtorch but have been doing it with a lighter.

When I test the resistance it jumps all over the place, one minute it's 2, then 1.4 then less than 1 etc., how is this happening?

Also I lost one of the centre post screws, is there any reason you need 3? Any idea where I can get another one?

I'm taking a break from it as it was doing my head in, I'm out of mesh and nearly out of wire as well (until grindle's order comes through).

What's NR wire btw, no resistance wire?

I dont rebuild but from what I can gather from YouTube you have to leave out the filling screw for decent wicking.
Try vaporgear in the UK for aga parts, he strips them down and sells parts seperatly, he is sound to deal with, he will answer any questions if you email him but delivery takes a week, delivery is free with orders over 10 stg.

heliguyheliguy

Lucutus wrote: »

Okay tried another couple.

The first had a twisted bridge back to the post from the end of the top coil, popped right where the twisted wire began.

The second was a coil made entirely of twisted wire, which had the same bridge hot spot problem, didn't pop, but had silly low resistance, 0.8Ω, wouldn't fire on the vamo, had to try it on a twist. Very strange to see the bridge lit up bright orange on twisted wire! Would need more than 3 wraps to get right, maybe 5 or even 6 if I could fit it.

One last go...

it sounds like you wick is not oxidized.
That would explain the constant hotspots and burnouts.
how are you oxidizing the wick?
have you tried the drill bit method?

Lucutus

Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

Mr. Chrome

Mr. Chrome wrote: »

I dont rebuild but from what I can gather from YouTube you have to leave out the filling screw for decent wicking.
Try vaporgear in the UK for aga parts, he strips them down and sells parts seperatly, he is sound to deal with, he will answer any questions if you email him but delivery takes a week, delivery is free with orders over 10 stg.

Sorry ricky, that should have said vapegear, not vaporgear, bloody hangover!!!!

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

If the wick is thick enough that no air can get into or out of the tank, wicking will be slower with the screw left in.

Just oxidising the part/s that might touch the tank body or the coil is all that's important.

Shorts. The wick either wasn't oxidised or too much pressure was applied when wrapping wire to wick and cut through the oxidation.

The smallest is used to keep the silicon grommet at the bottom stable, prevents leaks, the other two are what keeps your wire in position.
No idea where you can get them.

You are an absolute lunatic if you've been throwing your mesh away. Lunatic. Not even a little bit joking.

NR wire, yup. For example, if you were to use NR wire from the top coil to the positive post there's zero chance of a hotspot forming there.

I haven't thown them away I still have them but I was planning on making a new one when I get a blowtorch. Only got a small amount with the AGA. I was thinking that rolling them and unrolling them could affect the wicking (that probably doesn't make sense, I know).

Too much pressure when wrapping the coil could've been my problem, I was putting a lot of pressure on it trying to get it closer to the middle post. Why is the gap so bloody big.

Tried making a silica U-wick but they just burn instantly, didn't seem to be wicking at all even though I had the filler screw out. The thoughts of sitting down with the f***ing thing again....

The RDA is so much more straight forward, 5 wraps with twisted wire, 1.4 ohms and no hotspots or burning. Great flavour and nic hit from it. So much so 12 mg is seeming a bit strong after using Kangers and Boges. Have to stop putting in 10-12 drops and chain vaping it away just so i can try a different flavour:)

Is the AGA really worth all the extra hassle? Maybe it's a case of just getting it working once and it's easy get it right all the time. Won't be happening tonight though...

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

you could try a mesh wick in the RDA, will give you an idea of the flavour you get from a mesh setup

heliguyheliguy

Lucutus wrote: »

Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

What your seeing is the result of the power flowing through the wick material; which has very little resistance, thus all the energy is dissipated in that short hop to the centre post. this also explains the very low resistance your seeing it is effectively using the wick as a ground post.

The drill bit method will allow you to oxidise the coil and so reduce the chance of shorting and or re-examine your wick oxidizing method its not as simple as just heat it glowing red and your done. I often find the need to heat several times and then set it on fire with e-liquid on.

if you tell us more about your methods, it might be easier to help

rickyjb

Mr. Chrome wrote: »

Sorry ricky, that should have said vapegear, not vaporgear, bloody hangover!!!!

Thanks for that, he's selling centre post nuts which I think is what I need. 5 pounds postage is a bit steep though, if anybody else needs anything from that site let me know.

Lucutus

Ah, yes, just what you've mentioned heli:

1. cut and roll wick
2. heat with torch to red glow
3. air cool
4. heat with torch to red glow
5. air cool
6. heat with torch to red glow
7. air cool
8. heat with torch to red glow
9. air cool
10. heat with torch to red glow
11. air cool
12. heat with torch to red glow
13. air cool
14. place 5 drops of juice on the top of wick (where coil will be)
15. burn off
16. place in AGA-T+
17. wrap wire around lower screw and fix in place.
18. wrap wire around 4 times to make coil
19. fix in place to top post
20. test on 3.0V
21. note hot spot on bridge
22. rage

rickyjb

Lucutus wrote: »

Good call, however, tis well oxidized, blowtorch used.

Here's the last one for the evening, straight up, close to the post as I could make it comfortably...

This...

*shudders*

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

one thing to keep in mind lucutus that I saw someone else mention after I sold you the aga, don't heat the mesh too much.. it can screw up the oxidis...thingie layer, apparently you just want it to glow a little orange and then cool it/quench it

heliguyheliguy

lol I get 22 alright
Note the edge of the wick is pulling away right at the start of your hotspot as circled
It's possible this is your problem.

Are you folding that edge over on itself, before rolling the wick?
How much wick material are you using? it looks very dense.

rickyjb

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar wrote: »

you could try a mesh wick in the RDA, will give you an idea of the flavour you get from a mesh setup

I take it you should still oxidise the wick for a RDA? Does it need to be a curved wick with a tail? I saw a guy do it on youtube with a paperclip, didn't look too bad. The AGA has nearly put me off SS wicks altogether.

I'll stick with the silica for the moment as it's working great, off to ebay I go to get a bloody blowtorch...

I used to only spend about 50 quid a month on smokes, I've easily spent 4 or 5 times that since I started this craic just before Christmas!!

I guess my lungs are benefiting even if my wallet isn't:)

Bubba9

If you're wick is properly oxidised the main reason for top coil hotspots on the AGA's is the distance between coil and centre post. Bending the coil can help but another solution would be to get a pair of small ss washers, place between the nuts on the centre posts and wrap you're wire between them. This effectively shortens the distance between centre post and coil and should help cure the problem.

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

rickyjb wrote: »

I take it you should still oxidise the wick for a RDA? Does it need to be a curved wick with a tail? I saw a guy do it on youtube with a paperclip, didn't look too bad. The AGA has nearly put me off SS wicks altogether.

I'll stick with the silica for the moment as it's working great, off to ebay I go to get a bloody blowtorch...

I used to only spend about 50 quid a month on smokes, I've easily spent 4 or 5 times that since I started this craic just before Christmas!!

I guess my lungs are benefiting even if my wallet isn't:)

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/139346/237255.jpg

this is a pic of green hornets mesh setup. yeah you do have to oxidise it still

superneat

I'll say don't give up anyway!

Here is one of the first tutorial videos I watched in regards to building for a genesis. It's 35mins long in two parts, but it gives you a good idea of the time taken for each step.

PART 2

I do it almost exactly as the video each time, apart from using a needle or something in the wick while it's in the wick hole, I don't find the need. If the wick is thick enough it will have enough rigidity to wrap around it by itself.

I have yet to have a major problem with a coil following these steps.

The juice burn is always recommended to be done at least three times, also the "fold over" before you roll the wick should be facing the positive post when doing the coil.

Best of luck pal, I hope you get it!

heliguyheliguy

My method.
Cut mesh 40mm x 20mm
Torch mesh till it glows on both sides
Fold over on edge about 2-3mm
Roll the mesh from the opposite side, around a paper clip.
Only roll in one direction, as rolling backward will unwrap or loosen.
The wick should now form a straw around the paper clip.
Now I torch it glowing red making sure to get it all.
Soak it in e-liquid till it is dripping off (never measured how much) and set on fire; twice.
Take it off the paper clip.
Trim one end at 45 degrees.
Insert into atomizer and trim level with centre post.
Put back on the paper clip and roll it again; to tidy up the cut ends.
Place back in the atomizer and wrap the coil snug but not tight.(I like 4 wraps)
Now if the tension of the coil is right you should be able to pull the wick back out by twisting back and forth while pulling gently.
Now pulse the power till the coil glows evenly, do it a few more times to oxidise the coil.
Check the resistance, this should now be the resistance of the coil if it changes you have a short to the wick.
Re-insert the wick and test fire
It should glow evenly, if not look at where the hotspot is touching the wick and just poke the coil up or down slightly and try again, repeat as necessary.
That's about it for me, sometimes I get a stubborn one and i need to remove the wick and burn it again.

p.s. I'm not saying this is the best / fastest / only method but it gets me there and I'm still learning

Mr. Chrome

rickyjb wrote: »

Thanks for that, he's selling centre post nuts which I think is what I need. 5 pounds postage is a bit steep though, if anybody else needs anything from that site let me know.

5 quid? He sent me a large bubble wrap envelope the other day, he didnt charge for delivery but the royal mail stamp was only 90p.