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Axe to the head

  • 13-02-2013 5:08am
    #1
    Site Banned Posts: 612 ✭✭✭


    That's what I'll do to these bastards.

    Oh yeah, do Argos sell axes?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,299 ✭✭✭✭MadsL


    That's what I'll do to these bastards.

    Oh yeah, do Argos sell axes?

    Nope, but Walmart sell shotguns. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭Tzar Chasm


    I have noticed a distinct lack of Walmart's in Rural ireland

    most decent hardware stores stock a range of axes, I would recomend that you avoid any of those ones with the plastic handles, they have an awful tendency to break when used vigorously


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,128 ✭✭✭✭aaronjumper


    Amateurs. I'll be using Hatchets. Small, light, easy to use. Let me know if you need a hand when you become exhausted from wielding an axe. :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 375 ✭✭jugger


    get a double bit axe not only is it funcional but it looks bitching too :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    10003.jpg

    http://www.heinnie.com/Axes-&-Saws/ESTWING-Axes/Black-Eagle-Blue-Double-Edge/p-523-534-10003/


    Bitchin'!

    8871.jpg

    6941.jpg

    My own favourite

    9691.jpg

    http://www.heinnie.com/Axes-&-Saws/Cold-Steel/Trail-Hawk/p-523-1046-9691/

    Although my Wetterlings and Gransfors are more practical hatchets/axes, for "combat" I think the Cold Steel Hawk or the United Cutlery look the business!

    There are good video reviews on "Zombiegoboom" for a lot of tools.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,754 ✭✭✭✭degrassinoel


    they certainly look the part, but can they chop wood? :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    Define "chop wood" ?

    For limbing and cross cutting these would do fine, for splitting they would fare less well, since they do not have the wedge shaped profile to be good splitters.

    A Granny B or Wetterlings will fare better stoking the stove, these may fare better stoving in undead heads?

    I prefer a Golok for either, but wouldn't pass up a good axe!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,824 ✭✭✭RoyalMarine


    ^^

    you know your axe's... what's your address so I can shelter with you when the zed's come?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    I recently picked up a nice hatchet in woodies, have a decent fire poker and a medium lump hammer too.

    Torn between a claw hammer or crow bar for my next get. Im leaning towards the claw hammer in order to do away with the heavier and unweildy lump hammer.

    Hatchet+hammer combo is pretty high on the list of recommended weapons, for size-damage ratio, added versatility, maintenance and availability. backed up with a medium reach and durable weapon such as crowbar or poker then you have a pretty solid arsenal. wouldnt go much bigger than a hatchet tho, longer axes can be a bit tricky, and are almost no use in close quarters.

    having the hatchet and poker just within reach near my fire place does give a nice warm feeling on these dark evenings, almost as much as the fire does. dont envy the first muncher through my door. the missus is going to have to move pretty quick to get those before me... and she thinks my chair is by the fire so i can keep warm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    For the deluxe versions, very little expense spared

    for a granny B style belt axe try finding an axe by Cegga

    Hawks including trad. Polish hiking staff/hawk combo.'s look at papstomahawks.

    Modern combat hawks look at Emerson, Swamprat, Winkler/Sayoc, RMJ Tactical and American Kami.
    Torn between a claw hammer or crow bar for my next get.

    Claw hammer, long handled roofers hammer for more reach, straight claw for breaching. 16oz. is quick but a 24oz. lands heavy.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 833 ✭✭✭southcentralts


    Make war not peace!

    During negotiations with a zombie, try not to bury the hatchet, in their skull, unless you are dealing with only one. Can be tricky to remove from a lump of wood, let alone a skull, use the blunt side when confronted with a crowd of zombies, or face the decision to abandon your axe and run. The blunt side usually has a nice square heavy metal weight which will cause plenty of brain trauma and re-deadify permanently any zombie you encounter without getting stuck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    The blunt side usually has a nice square heavy metal weight which will cause plenty of brain trauma and re-deadify permanently any zombie you encounter without getting stuck.

    Precisely why i opted for the hatchet and hammer combo.
    The blade is good and useful but the flat back make it superior.

    Also with the hammer if the axe blade does get stuck in the side of a skull you can use the hammer from the other side to sheer the top of the head off and free up your axe. or use the claw of the hammer into the axe hole and pry it up like a coke can.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    Torn between a claw hammer or crow bar for my next get. Im leaning towards the claw hammer in order to do away with the heavier and unweildy lump hammer.
    I would go hammer. I have my doubts about the crow bar. While it's heavy and hard and will of course do damage it's shape isn't the best. With a rounded end and an inward facing point the sculls design might be enough to have the crow bar slip off to the side dissipating the majority of the force generated in the swing. While it's more than enough to knock a person out unless it cracks the scull wide open it might not stop a zombie with one swing every time.

    The hammer is designed to put all the force directly into a small enough area. That was just never the intention with a crow bar.

    Things to consider when choosing the right tool. What was it intended to do. Pry or apply maximum force to the smallest area.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    ScumLord wrote: »
    I would go hammer. I have my doubts about the crow bar. While it's heavy and hard and will of course do damage it's shape isn't the best. With a rounded end and an inward facing point the sculls design might be enough to have the crow bar slip off to the side dissipating the majority of the force generated in the swing. While it's more than enough to knock a person out unless it cracks the scull wide open it might not stop a zombie with one swing every time.

    The hammer is designed to put all the force directly into a small enough area. That was just never the intention with a crow bar.

    Things to consider when choosing the right tool. What was it intended to do. Pry or apply maximum force to the smallest area.

    It's primary use would be as a back up weapon, with a longer reach. To swing in a wide arc to keep distance. It is light enough to not overburden you while being strong enough to cause damage, the hooked end keeps it secure in your hand and you can use the flatter end to break open skulls.

    Mostly it is a space maker and a back up with multiple purposes(such as opening doors etc)

    Really it would only see use as a weapon if the axe or hammer were dropped/broken.
    I would say it has the same damage potential as a baseball bat/hurley etc within the same range, but since it is dual purpose has more use and saves weight.

    Because of its durability it will last longer than the other choices in the same range or size.

    I would hold the curved end in combat, but you could reverse this and use the hook to grip your opponent and maneuver them into range for a killing blow with the axe or hammer.

    The full set up would be hatchet+claw/lump hammer and my primary weapon. I prefer the claw hammer to the lump hammer due to its weight.

    then with the crow bar/fire poker as a medium range back up.

    This tool set provides a lot of combat effectiveness, with a light weight and durability. Plus they are easily maintained and sourced. they can be found near everywhere, so can be replaced easily.

    I currently only have a lump hammer, a hatchet and a fire poker, so I have plenty of room to upgrade. 2 of those choices are the 2nd best in the category. So i need to decide what to get next. I lean towards the claw hammer as the lump hammer is simply too heavy for extended use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    It's primary use would be as a back up weapon, with a longer reach. To swing in a wide arc to keep distance.
    I'd wonder about that too, a medium ranged weapon will scare a person out to a curtain distance but zombies will just keep walking into the danger zone.

    Mostly it is a space maker and a back up with multiple purposes(such as opening doors etc)
    It's a good point that a crow bar is an excellent tool. It would be very useful outside of combat.

    I have a fubar which covers both beating and prying, I a bit of a fanboy when it comes to the fubar though, there are some disadvantages to it, it's pretty heavy so it's going to wear you down quicker. It's a slightly awkward shape with the nail puller at one end. But it does hammering and different types of prying. The head can grab a piece of timber and twist it out. I think it's basically designed to demolish partition walls. I have the 18", they also make a 30" which seems to be for going through brick walls.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    ScumLord wrote: »
    I'd wonder about that too, a medium ranged weapon will scare a person out to a curtain distance but zombies will just keep walking into the danger zone.
    Where the hammer is. crow bar is a back up, so its just to make space to escape. the hammer+axe is for killing.
    ScumLord wrote: »
    It's a good point that a crow bar is an excellent tool. It would be very useful outside of combat.

    no doubt there are better weapons in combat. baseball bat, sword etc, but the crowbar is dual purpose and only a back up weapon, so because of this I think it' superior. I wouldt take the c/bar in to clear a room I would opt for more killing power in a back up, or something with more defense ability.
    but I would take it over a bat when just traveling/exploring/general day to day apocalypse stuff.
    ScumLord wrote: »
    I have a fubar which covers both beating and prying,

    The only Fubar I know is the acronym. By your description I am intrigued. It sounds like a contender for the crow bar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    The only Fubar I know is the acronym. By your description I am intrigued. It sounds like a contender for the crow bar.


    http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=Xtreme&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=55-099




    The truckers friend looks good too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    ScumLord wrote: »

    nice, its in the tool box now.

    not sure if it will replace the crowbar, will have to make that judgement later. but if i get the chance to get one ill take it.

    $30 dollars in the states, and my buddy just landed in dublin from there. If id have known Id told him to get one for me.

    couldve gone zombie hunting this weekend to test it out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    How about a Titanium crowbar ;)

    I would like a short handled boar spear, work as a team, pinning Zed with the spear and partner bashes in their heads.

    The spear can also punch in skulls and slash with.
    A pike for bales would nearly do me, shorten the handle a little and away with you.
    A stainless trenching spade sharpened and shaped would make a decent Lobo.

    American mates, ask him for a Halligan or "Hooligan" bar! http://www.firehooksunlimited.net/probars.html


    image.aspx?imageId=1109

    Dead On hammers http://www.deadonstore.com/tools.htm

    DeadOnSteel.gif

    or a Fire and Rescue FUBAR

    fubar-firerescue.jpg

    http://toolmonger.com/2008/09/30/preview-stanleys-firerescue-fubar/



    I love the hardware shop. ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    $30 dollars in the states, and my buddy just landed in dublin from there. If id have known Id told him to get one for me.
    €30 is cheap, I think I paid closer to €40 for mine but all these things are available in Ireland you just have to go to the industrial hardware shops, the likes of http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/ they had to order mine in but technically they do stock them.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,869 ✭✭✭thegreatiam


    ScumLord wrote: »
    €30 is cheap, I think I paid closer to €40 for mine but all these things are available in Ireland you just have to go to the industrial hardware shops, the likes of http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/ they had to order mine in but technically they do stock them.

    30 dollars much cheaper than 30 euro. especially as it would be delivered to the house for free too. shame i didn't see this thread last week. Ah well, ill fork up 40 euro for it here instead.

    Although I would've liked to have asked my buddy to fly over with one for me.

    Him: "hey dude, want me to bring anything from the states when i visit"
    Me:"yes please, can you get a fubar for me"
    him:"sure, what is it"
    Me:"its a crowbar type tool im going to use to smash in the heads of any zombies that try to eat me, it can also be used to pry open doors and boxes"
    Customs officer : "Anything to declare?"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    Customs officer : "Anything to declare?"
    "It's not mine"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,736 ✭✭✭✭kylith


    I was thinking that an ice axe would be the business. Nice and pointy for maximum skull penetration. I'm a bit worried about the serrations on it though, could make getting it out again difficult, unless you took the time to file them down.


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