Straight Razor Restoration for TheJims

MadsL

Ok, Cliff notes.

TheJims wants to start straight razor shaving. He's on a budget so asked if anyone had a shave ready straight for sale. I offered to restore one for him in exchange for a SSF donation.

He's picked out a Crown and Sword (#1 in this pic) and blue scales to go on it.

I'll use this thread to post step-by-steps and pics.

OK - here's the razor he picked out yesterday.



I threw it in the tumbler last night so it has now had about 14 hours in the tumbler...tumbler is a brass reloading tumbler loaded with walnut shells and red oxide - lets have a look.

Album here with closeups. http://imgur.com/a/pjlBZ

Now one obvious problem I see with this blade is the amount of "smile" the blade has. This may be 'fun' when we come to hone.

Just for the record, I've already ground off all the surface rust with a 80 grit dremel sanding wheel. There some quite deep pits on the tang and the tip of the razor. However we are attempting to produce a functional budget blade, not a mirror finish showcase piece.

Just to put a date on this razor, as we have made in Germany we are post 1890, and I would suggest 1930ish as the date on this. Here is some history on the maker ERN.

Next steps now is a little polishing with 400 grit wet and dry using a rotary wheel tool.

Pic tomorrow.

MadsL

Well, maybe today...

Now gone through 400 grit and 800 grit stages (looks like I'm out of 600 grit)

Results here

400 Grit

800 Grit

I'm now going to give this an overnight in the tumbler.

I'm off to Miami for a conference tomorrow so no updates for a week I'm afraid.

TheJims - I have thought about using gun blueing on this blade, what do you think? Here's an example of a blued blade - same process as bluing a gun.

TheJims

that looks sick! yeah id be well up for trying out Bluing.

Sounds like a fun process, but again this seems like the project for trying things?

You Sir are doing a great job Cant wait for the update on things next week!

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

that looks sick! yeah id be well up for trying out Bluing.

Sounds like a fun process, but again this seems like the project for trying things?

You Sir are doing a great job Cant wait for the update on things next week!

Yeah, it is a bit of experiment this one. That blade was so rusted up, the riust pits are very deep and dark. The bluing should make that a bit less noticible and I have been meaning to try out blueing.

Lets see how it turns out.

TheJims

i had to pick the most beat up blade eh?

Perhaps when then Bluing is done and we see pics we could revisit the scales colour?

MadsL

I think gunmetal will work with those blue scales.

MadsL

Anyone any ideas on a budget budget strop for TheJims.

Balsawood? Strip of leather nailed to a board?

MadsL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Straight-Razor-Strop-2-Wide-x-25-Long-New-Great-for-the-Beginner-/121058147376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2fa0bc30

What's the shipping to Ireland?

TheJims

17 dollars for basic delivery


26€ to the front door, inc delivery

MadsL

€25 ain't bad.

You will cut your first one so don't spend much

TheJims

so you think that one is the right price? i could get it in the next few days if everyone agrees its good

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

so you think that one is the right price? i could get it in the next few days if everyone agrees its good

Never tried one, but looks OK. You will destroy your first one anyway.

Anyone got a better priced strop?

hitemfrank

Can't think of a better priced one - you will get one from Shaving.ie for about €30 delivered.

But as MadsL says, you will cut up your first strop (and more after that possibly) so don't spend much on them until you are sure you're not going to cut up a strop.

Raoul

I hate theJims. So jealous. Ha. Great work guys.

TheJims

Raoul wrote: »

I hate theJims. So jealous. Ha. Great work guys.

Hostility Raoul jeuz... :pac: i hope you take happiness in the fact i will definitely rip the face off myself on the first few uses!

ok so ill pick up one of those strops.. what else is essential?

hitemfrank

Have you got a brush and soap?

Also a styptic pencil and alum block if you don't have them already.

MadsL

Apologies, a while since I updated, but oddly enough Miami turned into a revelation for me. There is a thriving jewellery/diamond quarter in downtown Miami and I managed to find some remarkable tools for the Dremel. I had no idea that you can get soft silicon tools impregnated with really really high grits. I was doing happy dances around the store, they thought I was nuts.

You call see this new box of tricks/starter pack and the latest progress on the gallery I uploaded.
http://imgur.com/a/HvoVA

The blade has now had about 48 hours in the tumbler, and the blue silicon (medium) polishing done, along with a buff from a green jeweller's rouge polishing paste (probably chromium oxide)

I'm a bit frustrated now as some deep scratching is still evident even though parts of the blade are now mirror finished. I think this was there when I bought the blade as someone tried to clean it up. Can't be helped now, but it is a beat-up blade anyhow.

So, Jims, a decision. Do you still want a blued blade, or will we try for a shiny one?

Hope to finish this up next week and get it shipped to you.

TheJims

wow you have done a great job so far! its very pretty now!

Im on two minds regarding the finish..

On one hand i think your doing a great job on getting the mirror style finish, and i especially like the old logos and branding on it, those alone have sold the blade to me!

But on the other, with the minor imperfections on the blade, the Bluing might make it look just that tad cleaner. But would we lose out on the Logos and Branding being as prominent?

What does everyone else think also? any input would be great !

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

wow you have done a great job so far! its very pretty now!

Im on two minds regarding the finish..

On one hand i think your doing a great job on getting the mirror style finish, and i especially like the old logos and branding on it, those alone have sold the blade to me!

But on the other, with the minor imperfections on the blade, the Bluing might make it look just that tad cleaner. But would we lose out on the Logos and Branding being as prominent?

What does everyone else think also? any input would be great !

I could mask off the spine and tang when bluing and get a two tone razor? Never done it (nor have I attempted bluing) bit of research.

Honestly, I would go with the natural steel for now. If you want to blue it later, we can do that.

TheJims

kk the shiny finish is the way to go so, i think a blade of its age (1930's you said?) should be left so its logos and branding are clear to see and admire perhaps save the Bluing for another project :P

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

kk the shiny finish is the way to go so, i think a blade of its age (1930's you said?) should be left so its logos and branding are clear to see and admire perhaps save the Bluing for another project :P

OK, onwards and upwards in the grits.

Out of interest, is anyone else restoring razors?

Cedrus

What is blueing? How would you lose the logos, is it a corrosive process?

I'm getting enthused to try my Grandads straight again, I had it reground years ago but gave up because I couldn't shave in less than 20 minutes (with an hour to calm my nerves afterwards):o.

MadsL

Cedrus wrote: »

What is blueing? How would you lose the logos, is it a corrosive process?

It is the same process as used on guns, it turns the metal "blue" as in 'gunmetal blue', it is a hot, or cold, or rust process. It will not destroy the logos just mean they are black on blue, rather than black on silver.

]I'm getting enthused to try my Grandads straight again, I had it reground years ago but gave up because I couldn't shave in less than 20 minutes (with an hour to calm my nerves afterwards):o.

Still takes me 20-30 minutes for a decent 3 pass shave. Most times one/two pass is ok if you are in a hurry and not fussy.

MadsL

Last polish with the pink silicon wheel, chromium oxide jeweller's rouge, and then into the tumbler loaded with chromium oxide.

Things I learnt,

1. Go easier with the higher grit rotary tools, there are some scratches there that were for rust removal but were needlessly deep.

2. Wear eyeprotection at all times - CroOx jeweller's rouge is not fun in the eye.

3. Buffing wheel heats three times as fast as the silicon wheel. The home made heat sink was very useful - it is upturned hotel pan with a rare earth magnet salvaged from an old disc drive with an icepack inside. The metal pan helps suck the heat from the blade (heat is bad for blades as it can cause them to lose temper and become brittle) If you are going to do this be very careful as rare earth magnets are very very strong and 'suck' the blade to the surface. Only ever offer the spine downwards as the magnet would be strong enough to pull the blade through your finger. The upside is that buffing wheels can catch and throw blades so this is a very solid platform to run a buffing wheel over.

TheJims

sounds like your putting your eyes and fingers right in the danger-zone lol are your new tools making a big difference to proceedings?

Sounds more dangerous restoring them, then it is using them on your face ! :pac:

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

sounds like your putting your eyes and fingers right in the danger-zone lol are your new tools making a big difference to proceedings?

Sounds more dangerous restoring them, then it is using them on your face ! :pac:

The new tools are great and speed things up enormously, the CrOX in the eye was me being dumb and looking directly down as the buffing wheel spun in the bar of rouge without eye protection on. Nothing dramatic, just ugh.

I'll post some pics today but my camera is still knackered so may not be great.

MadsL

Polishing is done!!

http://imgur.com/a/H8Pof

Time to pin tomorrow, if (and it is a big if) I can find my step down drill chuck. Workshop is a complete mess.

hitemfrank

Looks good MadsL.

TheJims

looks sweet! do you do much other restoration work besides SR's? u seem to have a great collection and tools

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

looks sweet! do you do much other restoration work besides SR's? u seem to have a great collection and tools

I've restored a couple of strops, it is something I would like to do more of, but house restoration is the main time consumer as I just bought a 30 year old house that needs some TLC.

MadsL

Just need to pin this bad boy now...

Raoul

Looks so cool. Great job!

TheJims

great job on the blade.. it looks brand new! seeing it altogether makes me nervous of using it on my face lol but I'm excited to try!

TheJims

Well did u find your drill chuck? :pac:

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

Well did u find your drill chuck? :pac:

Yes, yes I did. I bought one after having a diverting afternoon at a massive mil surplus place. Came home to find mine sitting in a drawer staring up at me.

Peened it last night.

http://imgur.com/a/bMVS0

Honing today all being well.

Can you PM me an address for postage?

TheJims

address sent! the latest pics are awesome ! cant wait to get my hands on it now, also your Anvil is cool lol

Raoul

Once again, looks great

MadsL

Right - honing complete:

Progression for the honers amongst you...

In the water - Ice Bear 1200 grit synthetic bevel setter. Was shaving off this but not really popping as I like.

Creamy stone with slurry stone on top = Beligian Coticule bout - natural stone.
I used the Dilucot method (slurry slowly diluted with water) 3000-5000k grit approx.
3 progressions on that - slurry to water. Final polish with just water. (8000k grit)
Hair test was almost there, hairs violined the edge and split.

Here's a video of honing with it. [Click pic]


The stone in the box is a "Celebrated water razor hone" - a Thuringian stone similiar to an Esher (about a 20th of the price, mind) A few laps on that to bring the edge close to where I want it. It is a really nice finisher. About 8000-9000k grit.

I ran a couple of laps on the Swaty stone - but I didn't like the feedback from the stone after the Thuringian so stopped. The stone really is a touchup for mid-shave; exactly what a barber hone should be, but I think it needs a finished edge brought to it, rather than an edge being finished by it.

I then stropped on CrOx pasted strop to see where I was. CrOx is about 0.5 microns so about 30k grit. The edge needed some improvement so then when to a 3 micron film (8k grit) and then to a 0.3 micron film ( that's about 40k grit) - a big jump (probably needed a 1 micron in there) but it turned out nice.

50 laps on linen strop then 50 on leather did the world of good.

HHT test is pretty much done deal now.



I know those look like pubes, but I am a hairy bugger and those are chest hairs - which I find are closer to beard than head hair.

Sorry for the eeeewww! factor Jims but you razor will be put through Alcohol, Peroxide, and Barbacide before I ship it. I promise no trace of my DNA

Right, off to shave with it and see is the edge smooth...BRB.

markesmith

Just got into DE shaving so feel like a noob here but...

Best. Thread. Ever.

Didn't realise there was so much to straight razors.

Following this thread like a boss!

TheJims

daaaaaaaamn MadSL i was so impressed with all the honing and stropping talk then i clicked that last video and am rethinking my entire life! :pac:

seriously thou that hanging hair test is pretty intimidating! didnt realize it would be THAT sharp.. insane!

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

daaaaaaaamn MadSL i was so impressed with all the honing and stropping talk then i clicked that last video and am rethinking my entire life! :pac:

seriously thou that hanging hair test is pretty intimidating! didnt realize it would be THAT sharp.. insane!

And now you appreciate why everyone talks about putting no pressure on the blade, just letting the blade do the work. Oddly enough, you are less likely to nick yourself if you have a sharp blade.

Don't be intimidated - just commit to 100 shaves with it. Once you have done 100, you'll be a pro at it. You don't have to 'finish' every shave, just start with cheeks, then finish with whatever you normally use. Then build up to neck and so forth.

Did you get a strop yet? If you did, hang it by the toilet and run your (free) hand over it everytime you take a whizz. Oil from your hands will begin to condition it.

TheJims

right, pee on the strop .. got ya!

Nah i dont have it yet, going on a trip away in a week or so, so all spare cash has been put away for that, i have a nice list of accessories to get once im back..

Chris from Shaving.ie has recommended a budget few things to me, what do you make of this strop?

http://www.shaving.ie/products/Solingen-made-Leather-Strop.html

price is good for a beginners one is all i know

MadsL

TheJims wrote: »

right, pee on the strop .. got ya!

Nah i dont have it yet, going on a trip away in a week or so, so all spare cash has been put away for that, i have a nice list of accessories to get once im back..

Chris from Shaving.ie has recommended a budget few things to me, what do you make of this strop?

http://www.shaving.ie/products/Solingen-made-Leather-Strop.html

price is good for a beginners one is all i know

Perfect. You'll slice it up anyway. Practice with a comb for now (buy a handled comb, forget what they call them, y'know the girly ones with a pointy bit) use that on a belt to get the turning action practiced safely.

MadsL

Right. Shave tested. Dammit, I'm keeping it




















Kidding, but nice and smooth edge. Wiped off five days growth like spreading toast.

In the post tomorrow. :cool:

MadsL

....AND posted today.

MadsL

MadsL wrote: »

....AND posted today.

No sign of it yet huh?

TheJims

No no it arrived during the week! Only think is I'm in London until Tuesday so havnt seen it yet! I'll be ordering my bits and pieces Tuesday with the reminents of my spending money

MadsL

Ah great. Niice to see it didn't vanish in the Atlantic.

TheJims

Just finished my first shave with the Razor...

It was an experience! :pac:

Seemed to go well, obviously missed a few bits now looking back over my face... Don't think i had enough water in the cream, as it seemed to solidify near the end of the shave, maybe coz i was taking so long and being extra careful!

Nicked myself 3 times, both sides on my nostril and on my upper cheek..

wasn't too sure how to tackle certain areas so was making it up as i was going along..

then finished with a cold water rinse.. rub of the big block, and applied the stick to the cuts..

My face is stinging atm but i enjoyed it!

TheJims

Stupid question... what am i "supposed" to use to clean off the blade after each stroke...? atm I'm rinsing it under a hot tap.. am I men't to use a hand towel to wipe off cream and hair?? or is the tap the right idea?

Have had my 3rd shave today and neck is very itchy and red since i started.

Could be just my skin getting used to shaving again, or perhaps I'm doing something wrong, per and post shave routine issue, possibly pulling blade against the grain?

Raoul

TheJims wrote: »

Stupid question... what am i "supposed" to use to clean off the blade after each stroke...? atm I'm rinsing it under a hot tap.. am I men't to use a hand towel to wipe off cream and hair?? or is the tap the right idea?

Have had my 3rd shave today and neck is very itchy and red since i started.

Could be just my skin getting used to shaving again, or perhaps I'm doing something wrong, per and post shave routine issue, possibly pulling blade against the grain?

Read this first and was like, what the hell are you doing shaving three times in the one day. Ha

I rinse it in the sink thats full of hot water, usually a good swirl around gets rid of everything on it. If not I drag it on the towel, away from the blade.

If you are red and itchy maybe you just need to be careful you are using the right technique, hardly any pressure!

I wouldn't go against the grain at all with the straight, I am on my probably 20th shave with it and I still haven't dared to go ATG, no need to really.