I'm looking for a guide on how to build a decorative wood panelled room

98-00

I'm looking for a book or guide on how to fit wooden panelling to room. I looked several carpentry and joinery titles but either they don't cover the topic specifically or they cover basic tongue and groove panelling. I am more interested in the type of panelling found in Georgian and other period buildings.

heffo500

Norm from The New Yankee Workshop did an episode on this and it was very informative

http://www.newyankee.com/index.php?id=53#!/~/product/id=7916674

recipio

i've never done it but at least we now have veneered mdf which reduces the expense big time. I think some kind of scribe and profile joint ( on the router table ) is better than those awful rounded shoulders produced by running a router around a square frame. !

slpower01

I had to do paneling in a house in fox rock like 3 years back and the way I did it was baton out all the walls... then rip down 18mm mdf to 120mm strips (bigger for the piece nearest the floor to raise it for skirting). Nail the horizontal bottom on. Nail on the top strips (keeping them level). cut uprights and work out spacing to be as even as possible around the walls pointless having one with a 300mm gap and another 500mm .... one side of the internal corners would be 18mm thinner to even it out. Cut 4mm ply to fit in between rails. Get a nice thin moulding to line the inside of the rails and cover the edges of the plywood by mitering them. Cut a 50mm strip to bullnose/ detail on a router to use as a capping and under this nail a strip of the thin moulding to detail it and also help strengthen the capping.
and nailed on skirting to suit the rest of the house.

Hope this makes sense, I know its not exactly what you are after but the process might be similar-ish.

If you are just on about t and g paneling floor to ceiling, then fix on baton's horizontally around the room.... roughly 400mm apart with either express nails if walls are concrete or just standard screws if you can find the upright studs.... then if you don't have a second fix nail gun then rent one.... cut the paneling whatever length you want it to be (if not full height).... (if it is shorter make sure you have a baton that is level at the top of the timber.)....use a level to make sure the first piece of paneling is plumb and tack it on.... then after every 5 or 6 boards check with the level again... if it is running off slightly then adjust it to suit.... then finish similar to above or if it is full height you can just nail on a small moulding or even a coving.

woodturner

Using sheet material couldn't make the job any easier. It will take some planning but joining sheets together and covering the joints with the rails would involve very little work. Basically, after the panelling is formed you need a bolection type moulding, similar to my crude drawing which is rebated to suit the thickness of the sheet material. If you did go down this route, balancer backed sheets will be cheaper than double faced sheets. Keep the bottom rail higher but showing the same as the rest of the rails after the skirting is fixed on. When fixing the panels to the wall, you can glue on most of the mouldings but leave a couple out that you can fix behind. You can also fix it to the wall behind the skirting.

recipio

I'd imagine 4mm veneered ply is a little thin. The scribe and profile router cutters are designed for 6mm but I've never found it with a veneered finish.

Double Barrel

"The practical house carpenter" by William Pain http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?id=DLDecArts.PainPraHouse

Google "Golden Section"

Basic Rules
1. Vertical symmetry before horizontal
2. Vertical panels are preferable even if they are all different heights.
3. Two narrow panels are better than one large one.
4. Do not use the heads of the doors as a horizontal line. You can use smaller panels above them and taller panels next to them.
5. Square panels are ugly; tall and narrow are more pleasing to the eye.

Further down the road
1. Flame the grain on the panels (flat sawn panels have a top and bottom, flames always point up).
2. Google Fibonacci's sequence, Golden Section.
3.There are excellent books in main Library's with line drawings of old homes with fully paneled walls.
4. Personally talk to the electrician about placement of receptacles. Integrate them into the design.
5. There is always a compromise between ease of construction versus pure aesthetics.
6. Remember it's a layering affect - use that to your advantage. It is not one big piece of furniture. It is composed of various layers of mouldings, reveals that hide the fasteners below.
7. Try your best to hide all surface nailing/screwing.
8. Don't get bogged down on one panel that isn't perfect. Correct is OK.
9. Use exaggerated thickness and protrusions to give more depth (i.e. thick mouldings on base/chair rail/etc.). Lay out the section view and make sure it isn't flat.
10. Lay out difficult sections full scale on plywood. Definitely lay out the entire wall on story sticks for accuracy and this will help you feel the dimensions. Some layouts look real good on CAD or even paper and awful full scale.

Double your install estimate. :rolleyes::cool::cool::pac:

recipio

Its a bit like dry lining - some room space will be lost ?
If you screw 20 mm battens to the wall then screw 19mm veneered MDF to those and finally attach the 'grid' of wood ,say another 20mm you have lost 59mm of space on each wall.
I say 'attach' as you want to hide any nail marks so it would have to be a nail pinner and fill the small holes ??
If anybody know where to find 6mm veneered mdf/ply please let me know.

woodturner

recipio wrote: »

Its a bit like dry lining - some room space will be lost ?
If you screw 20 mm battens to the wall then screw 19mm veneered MDF to those and finally attach the 'grid' of wood ,say another 20mm you have lost 59mm of space on each wall.
I say 'attach' as you want to hide any nail marks so it would have to be a nail pinner and fill the small holes ??
If anybody know where to find 6mm veneered mdf/ply please let me know.

You can get 6mm veneered MDF but it's almost 7mm after the veneering.

98-00

Thanks for all the advice and tip. You've given me a lot to think about.

recipio

woodturner wrote: »

You can get 6mm veneered MDF but it's almost 7mm after the veneering.

Thanks,
where have you seen it .?