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Moving to secondary

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  • 07-03-2013 12:11pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 446 ✭✭


    Should moving to secondary be done when fermentation slows or completely stops?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 850 ✭✭✭mayto


    I usually move to secondary when fermentation is about done or a few points away. If its still fermenting a bit the yeast can take up any oxygen picked up during transfer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 446 ✭✭Devi


    mayto wrote: »
    I usually move to secondary when fermentation is about done or a few points away. If its still fermenting a bit the yeast can take up any oxygen picked up during transfer.
    I dont have a tap on my bucket so dont take readings until I have an opportunity to. How would I know it’s near without taking a reading, airlock bubbles about once every two mins now and its 8 days in primary?


  • Registered Users Posts: 947 ✭✭✭fobster


    If you can't take measurements then give it 2 weeks in the primary and then transfer, should be fine. On a side note you need a wine thief my friend! Lift the lid, dunk it in, take the reading.

    Though if ordering from the below site, I'd recommend clubbing together with a few other people/buy a load of stuff to make it worth your while.

    http://www.hopshopuk.com/products/view/1530/general/hydrometers-and-test-jars/fermtech-wine-thief


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭oblivious


    Devi wrote: »
    Should moving to secondary be done when fermentation slows or completely stops?

    Two possible three weeks in the primary and it ready for bottling and kegging

    Secondary is realy only need for fruit, bug addtion or oak ageing


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 446 ✭✭Devi


    oblivious wrote: »

    Two possible three weeks in the primary and it ready for bottling and kegging

    Secondary is realy only need for fruit, bug addtion or oak ageing
    I thought secondary was recommended for all beers to reduce sediment in bottles no?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭oblivious


    Devi wrote: »
    I thought secondary was recommended for all beers to reduce sediment in bottles no?


    You will stil l have sediment. Good racking will help to reduce that


  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭joctcl


    oblivious wrote: »
    Two possible three weeks in the primary and it ready for bottling and kegging

    Secondary is realy only need for fruit, bug addtion or oak ageing


    "Bug addtion", I keep flies out of mine:D

    Secondary is there to clean up your beer and remove potential off flavours.
    If you are brewing lagers or blonde ales, kolschs etc, secondary for crispness clarity and flavour.
    If you are brewing stouts or strong or big flavour ales, don't bother with secondary as slight off flavours will be masked and clarity doesn't come into it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 446 ✭✭Devi


    joctcl wrote: »


    "Bug addtion", I keep flies out of mine:D

    Secondary is there to clean up your beer and remove potential off flavours.
    If you are brewing lagers or blonde ales, kolschs etc, secondary for crispness clarity and flavour.
    If you are brewing stouts or strong or big flavour ales, don't bother with secondary as slight off flavours will be masked and clarity doesn't come into it.
    Went ahead a racked it last night as it looked like it stoped fermenting, used 1kg of spray malt and 300g of golden syrup and have to say it tastes alright considering its a kit and a week old.


  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭joctcl


    Devi wrote: »
    Went ahead a racked it last night as it looked like it stoped fermenting, used 1kg of spray malt and 300g of golden syrup and have to say it tastes alright considering its a kit and a week old.

    The spraymalt went in at the very start right not when you racked.
    What are you brewing?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 446 ✭✭Devi


    joctcl wrote: »
    The spraymalt went in at the very start right not when you racked.
    What are you brewing?

    Yes of course im not that bad :), kit malt, spraymalt then syrup. Coopers canadian blonde, I mainly wanted to see if my equipment was ok, its been in the shed for two years so I had to give it a good scrub, just wanted to make sure it didnt have any bugs before investing anymore time/money.

    I was thinking about getting into extract brewing, can anybody tell me the pros/cons of exctract versus say 3kg kits? Should I start a new thread for that?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭joctcl


    Probably best to start a new thread
    I skipped extract and went straight to AG:)


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