HKC securewatch Problems :(

banie01

Hiya Folks,
Was having some issues with a HKC securewatch at home.
Mainly with the Panel Battery Fault being displayed,
So I replaced the battery today and now I have ''Batt Panel Fuse'' fault which I'm assuming is just a case of replacing the relevant fuse?
Of the 4 fuses in the cabinet, which do I replace?
And are they all 800ma fuses?

Also the alarm is displaying the wrong date/time and I want to correct this.
I however seem to be unable to access the relevant menu to do this.
I downloaded the user manual from the sticky and I can't get into the User menu to change date/time.
I've tried the key combination in Manager manual to access the menu with no joy, so I'm assuming 1 of 2 things.
1. Ive missed something obvious in the key sequence and am doing it arseways?
(Possible as the file has some display probs for me)
2. Manager/User menu access has been disabled?
So if anyone could offer some advice on how best to check which I am?
I'd appreciate greatly?

And if my user/manager menu access is restricted, how can I restore it?
Do I need an engineer call out? Or can it be reset/defaulted?
and if its a case I do need an engineer, any recommendations for the limerick City area?

KoolKid

banie01 wrote: »

Hiya Folks,
Was having some issues with a HKC securewatch at home.
Mainly with the Panel Battery Fault being displayed,
So I replaced the battery today and now I have ''Batt Panel Fuse'' fault which I'm assuming is just a case of replacing the relevant fuse?
Of the 4 fuses in the cabinet, which do I replace?
And are they all 800ma fuses?

The battery fuse is fuse 5 (The one on its own) Its 4A

banie01 wrote: »

Also the alarm is displaying the wrong date/time and I want to correct this.
I however seem to be unable to access the relevant menu to do this.
I downloaded the user manual from the sticky and I can't get into the User menu to change date/time.
I've tried the key combination in Manager manual to access the menu with no joy, so I'm assuming 1 of 2 things.
1. Ive missed something obvious in the key sequence and am doing it arseways?
(Possible as the file has some display probs for me)
2. Manager/User menu access has been disabled?

If you enter your code and the relevant menu does not display then your code has not been set up with permission to do this. You will need the engineer code to change this.

The other option is to try default the system.
To do this turn off the mains power & disconnect the battery.
Remove the factory link marked LK1 & re apply the power.
If you are prompted to default the system follow the onscreen prompts.
If the system is engineer locked you will need an engineer call out to default the panel.

banie01

Thanks Kool,
I have a project for tomorrow now methinks!

altor

Before you do try a default a good start is to have someone at the keypad and put the system in user walk test 0#3
As each point is tested it will show up on the keypad. Take note of the name and zone number.
Makes programming the system from scratch a lot easier

banie01

altor wrote: »

Before you do try a default a good start is to have someone at the keypad and put the system in user walk test 0#3
As each point is tested it will show up on the keypad. Take note of the name and zone number.
Makes programming the system from scratch a lot easier

I have the zones the installer provided on a 4pg HKC ''ownerss manual booklet so that is ok to start reprogramming.
Its z1 as door, z2-z7 as windows and z8 as beam.
The system defaulted perfectly and for some reason defaulting cleared the panel batt fuse fault too(Fuse is intact)
Just want to say a big thank you to Koolkid and Altor for the helpful and spot on advice!
If I can ever return the favour(I'm handy with satellite TV and computers )
Just shout!
Thanks folks.

PS, I'm off to follow Kool's advice now on wiring my dialler into UPC

altor

banie01 wrote: »

PS, I'm off to follow Kool's advice now on wiring my dialler into UPC

PS, I hope it is a voice dialer you are installing as the plug on dialer for the Securewatch system does not work with UPC

banie01

altor wrote: »

PS, I hope it is a voice dialer you are installing as the plug on dialer for the Securewatch system does not work with UPC

AHhh is there a recommended dialer module then?
Currently I have the HKC landline dialler but this hasnt been used since I switched to Upc.
Is there a method for patching that into UPC? Or is it a case of installing a gsm module or a different dialler?
Thanks for the advice so far, and sorry for the noobish questions.

altor

banie01 wrote: »

AHhh is there a recommended dialer module then?
Currently I have the HKC landline dialler but this hasnt been used since I switched to Upc.
Is there a method for patching that into UPC? Or is it a case of installing a gsm module or a different dialler?
Thanks for the advice so far, and sorry for the noobish questions.

All question welcome

You could use this as the voice dialer and trigger it off the outputs or the external bell of the system.

banie01

Thanks Altor,
Do I need to set the key panel ID?
As I keep getting an RKP not identified message?
Also aside from naming the zones, how do I know which way to set each sensor?
i.e EOL Non EOL and so on?
Is it a case of setting sensors as alarm? or perimeter?
Currently when I set the alarm, it starts the countdown and then goes off before the 30secs are up even with all contacts/zones closed.
I need to figure out how to identify and set the sensors correctly aswell as set up a partial set for the perimeter.
I'm just after downloading the HKC menu map, but any further advice before I start into the settings will be appreciated.

KoolKid

banie01 wrote: »

Do I need to set the key panel ID?

Its a good idea to ID the keypad it gives you more options.

banie01 wrote: »

Also aside from naming the zones, how do I know which way to set each sensor?
i.e EOL Non EOL and so on?
Is it a case of setting sensors as alarm? or perimeter?

EOL is the zone hardware for the way it is physically wired. Non - EOL is using no resistors.
Single EOL is using a single resistor in series with the alarm zone.
Duel EOL is using 2 resistors to wire alarm & tampers on one pair. One resistor goes in series with the tamper & the second goes across the alarm zone.

banie01 wrote: »

Currently when I set the alarm, it starts the countdown and then goes off before the 30secs are up even with all contacts/zones closed.

What displays after you disarm it?

banie01

KoolKid wrote: »

Its a good idea to ID the keypad it gives you more options.

How do I go about doing this?

KoolKid wrote: »

EOL is the zone hardware for the way it is physically wired. Non - EOL is using no resistors.
Single EOL is using a single resistor in series with the alarm zone.
Duel EOL is using 2 resistors to wire alarm & tampers on one pair. One resistor goes in series with the tamper & the second goes across the alarm zone.

I'm getting a little confused by the sequence of the sensors installed.
I have the original Owners Manual with the Zones tagged by the installer.
The zones are listed as
z1: front door
z2: front door sensor
z3: kitchen window
z4: patio
z5: landing
Z6: bathroom
z7:

---

z8: beam

But what I actually think the wiring sequence is:
z1: front Door sensor + trembler
z2: Front room window + front bedroom(2 tremblers - 1 circuit)
z3: Kitchen Window + Box Bedroom (2 tremblers - 1 circuit)
z4: Patio Door Trembler and Contact
z5: Landing
z6: Bathroom
z7: Possibly Back bedroom???
z8: beam

So as far as I can tell the windows are 2 to a zone, 1 downstairs and 1 upstairs apart from the back bedroom which I am unsure of as zone 7 is marked as blank and the installers seems to be fond of the 1up/1down system.

KoolKid wrote: »

What displays after you disarm it?

The message displayed when the alarm activates is ''Alarm Gross Z2 front door sensor''
But when I run an ''open'' test with the door open it shows as zone 1

KoolKid

To ID the keypad go to Add & ID devices > Keypads. You will need to open & close the tamper.
You can easily double check the zones by walk testing all the zones.
If the sensor on the front door is on a separate zone then that zone should be programmed as access.

banie01

KoolKid wrote: »

To ID the keypad go to Add & ID devices > Keypads. You will need to open & close the tamper.

The tamper on the keypad? Or the panel itself?

KoolKid wrote: »

You can easily double check the zones by walk testing all the zones.
If the sensor on the front door is on a separate zone then that zone should be programmed as access.

Thanks Kool, I'll walk test it later to be sure.
Would wiring 2 sensors per zone imply any particular type of setup(EOL/Non EOL)? as I cant lay my hands on a multimeter to check resistence til next week and I want to be sure I set it up correctly.
I've been thru the manual in the sticky but I can't find anything about setting which zones are inhibited on partset or how to set those up.
Is there another manual/guide with that detail available somewhere?

KoolKid

banie01 wrote: »

The tamper on the keypad? Or the panel itself?

On the keypad..

banie01 wrote: »

Thanks Kool, I'll walk test it later to be sure.
Would wiring 2 sensors per zone imply any particular type of setup(EOL/Non EOL)? as I cant lay my hands on a multimeter to check resistence til next week and I want to be sure I set it up correctly.

The amount of devices per zone is irrelevant, If you haven't got a meter open up the last senso on each zone & take a look.

banie01 wrote: »

I've been thru the manual in the sticky but I can't find anything about setting which zones are inhibited on partset or how to set those up.

In zone options.
Part set A & Part set B yes/no

banie01

KoolKid wrote: »

On the keypad..

KoolKid wrote: »

The amount of devices per zone is irrelevant, If you haven't got a meter open up the last sensor on each zone & take a look.

I've attached pictures of The Z1 door sensors and what I think is the last sensor on Z2 if ya could tell me what to look for to identify the wiring type I'd appreciate it greatly.

In zone options.
Part set A & Part set B yes/no[/QUOTE]
Thanks again Kool.
When I go into zone options>z8(beam),
it reads:
Type alarm, inhibit yes, access no, excl PgA yes,excl PgA Yes, dbl knock NO, soak no,chime no, 24hr no, perimeter no.

For z1 Front Door it reads:
Type Enter/Exit, Inhibit no, excl PgA no,excl PgB no, soak no,chime yes, 24hr no,

And for the windows and back door current settings are:
Type Alarm, Inhibit no, access no, excl PgA no,excl PgA no, dbl knock NO, soak no,chime no, 24hr no, perimeter Yes.

If you or Altor could offer advice on the correct setting for those options it would be a great help.

Thunderbird2

Cringe thinking of the internal wiring joins and the levelling of those sensors !

KoolKid

The zone setting appear correct. If the beam is in the hall then access should also be set to yes.
All zones should have inhibit set to yes.This means if there is a problem with that zone it call be inhibited.
Exclude PGA & PGB means the PiR is off for both part sets.
All other settings seem OK.
The sensor with a single cable going in appears to be the last one. It also appears to be NON EOL. Just double check the inputs in the panel have no resistors either.

banie01

KoolKid wrote: »

The zone setting appear correct. If the beam is in the hall then access should also be set to yes.
All zones should have inhibit set to yes.This means if there is a problem with that zone it call be inhibited.
Exclude PGA & PGB means the PiR is off for both part sets.
All other settings seem OK.
The sensor with a single cable going in appears to be the last one. It also appears to be NON EOL. Just double check the inputs in the panel have no resistors either.

Kool thanks for all the help(and Altor too)
Last question here for now (I hope!)
Are there any other things i should set? Anything obvious that I'm missing in?
Taking into account the fact that this is my 1st time playing around with my alarm so feel free to treat me like an infant.

PS: Just discovered that while the magnetic sensor is tagged as Z1, the shock sensor on the door is wired to Z2(in series with ground floor window I think.

KoolKid

Have you set zone 2 to access?

banie01

KoolKid wrote: »

Have you set zone 2 to access?

Not yet but I'm assuming I should, yeah?

KoolKid

Yes. Otherwise you will get false alarms on full set & unset when the front door is being used.

banie01

Thanks for confirming that Kool.
Out of curiosity would that be a normal way for an installer to wire up?
Is there a reason for it?

KoolKid

Ideally all sensors & contacts on separate zones. In reality for a domestic front door would be one zone.

Tina70

The alarm went off yesterday while I was home, the error message it is showing is keypad tamper... And I am now unable to set the alarm... I can get into the engineers menu, and now seem to have change short cut codes from 0#4 to *0#4 not sure how I did this, but either way error message is still the same....

Any help to advise where the keyboard tamper is, and how I reset it.

Thanks

Tina

kub

The keypad is the thing on the wall that you put your code into.
What panel have you? Is it a 10/ 70? When setting it has it a man's voice or a woman's?

Tina70

The keypad says Open tampers: keypad tamper
No idea if it is a 10 / 70, where would I find that out
It's a mans voice.....

Thanks

altor

Tina70 wrote: »

The keypad says Open tampers: keypad tamper
No idea if it is a 10 / 70, where would I find that out
It's a mans voice.....

Thanks

Mans voice would be the 8/12. Keypad tamper is the cover, not lid, on the keypad.
Make sure it is closed correctly.

Tina70

Thanks, have tried to see where the cover is open... Pushed it, shoved it, but alarm will still not set, no fault light showing, only message on the screen . How do I open it and then close it again???

kub

If you look at the underside of the keypad, there is a semi circle slightly to the right of the middle, there may also be a Philips head screw centering to the front if it.

So the first thing to do is remove the screw, then push that semi circle up and at the same time pull the cover forward, bottom first.

The tamper detector on the keypad is a spring on the circuit board to the right of the 9.....There or there abouts. .

So in order to replace the lid again realign it with the digit pad and replace it back in its original position, push the top home first, then the bottom and it should click back. You might have to figit with some of the digits to get them back on their correct positions.

Good luck with it, in the mean time try pressing # # after you set the system this may work to override this condition.

Tina70

kub wrote: »

If you look at the underside of the keypad, there is a semi circle slightly to the right of the middle, there may also be a Philips head screw centering to the front if it.

So the first thing to do is remove the screw, then push that semi circle up and at the same time pull the cover forward, bottom first.

The tamper detector on the keypad is a spring on the circuit board to the right of the 9.....There or there abouts. .

So in order to replace the lid again realign it with the digit pad and replace it back in its original position, push the top home first, then the bottom and it should click back. You might have to figit with some of the digits to get them back on their correct positions.

Good luck with it, in the mean time try pressing # # after you set the system this may work to override this condition.

Thanks so much Kub that worked perfectly.. Alarm now setting, @feelingsafeagain

That's again, have a great holiday season.