Soundproofing party walls

mrcheez

I have been given two quotes for sound-proofing the party walls of my terrace house. Both quotes have similar approaches, but use different materials so it would be great to get feedback on which approach would be best at blocking airborne sound...

QUOTE 1 (list of layers from brick wall)

- "SonaSwing" acoustic battens (50mm) at 600mm centres
- "RW A 45" 50mm insulation in between battens
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish

QUOTE 2 (list of layers from brick wall)

- Wooden battens (50mm) with layer of acoustic tape on both sides
- 50mm "high density rockwool" in between battens
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish


Both are fairly similar price-wise.

On the plus side for Quote 1 we have "SonaSwing" battens. I've never heard of SonaSwing (perhaps I'm spelling it wrongly), but the guy said that his sound engineer swears by it.

On the plus side for Quote 2 we have acoustic plasterboard (higher density than standard plasterboard).

Is acoustic tape wrapped over a wooden batten a good solution?

mrcheez

Have done a bit of research on this myself and it seems the first quote would be the method to go for.

SonaSwing are a type of resilient channel, and would decouple the new wall from the brick wall better than an insulated batten.

Maddylicious

Hey mr cheez,

I've no advice for you im afraid but I'm interested in getting this done myself. Whatever option you go for please let me know how you get on and if you notice a significant reduction in noise!

Thanks

subaru scooby

U should choose second one.timber and rock wool double plaster board you will never go wrong! Its best solution that has always been offered to sound prevention

mrcheez

subaru scooby wrote: »

U should choose second one.timber and rock wool double plaster board you will never go wrong! Its best solution that has always been offered to sound prevention

The resilient channel seems to decouple the new plasterboard from the brick wall better than battens. Only one screw touches the wall and the resilient channel ensures the sound dissipates.

With the batten, the entire surface is touching the wall and when you screw it to the wall, the screw will actually bypass any noise blocking tape surrounding it.

I'm also looking into using greenglue between the two layers of plasterboard... I'll update you once the job is done

mfceiling

If you are going with the first option then instead of using regular plasterboard use the "soundbloc" board (blue in colour). It's approx 7-10 euros more per board but as you'll not be using a huge amount of boards you may as well spend the few extra quid for it.

mrcheez

mfceiling wrote: »

If you are going with the first option then instead of using regular plasterboard use the "soundbloc" board (blue in colour). It's approx 7-10 euros more per board but as you'll not be using a huge amount of boards you may as well spend the few extra quid for it.

SoundBloc board is included in Quote 2 in the OP. I've done a bit of research on this and it's basically a denser variety of plasterboard and the difference is supposed to be negligible.

A better solution is to use "dampened" plasterboard, or to use GreenGlue between the 1st and 2nd layer of plasterboard. My builder is looking into whether he can get it in Ireland.

Anyone know where you can pick it up here?

mfceiling

mrcheez wrote: »

SoundBloc board is included in Quote 2 in the OP. I've done a bit of research on this and it's basically a denser variety of plasterboard and the difference is supposed to be negligible.

A better solution is to use "dampened" plasterboard, or to use GreenGlue between the 1st and 2nd layer of plasterboard. My builder is looking into whether he can get it in Ireland.

Anyone know where you can pick it up here?

Try CPD over in parkwest or Tennants - we deal with both. They are specialist suppliers to the drywall industry so may be able to point you in the right direction.

Just on the difference being negligible - the last company i worked for did a fit out in dublin airport. Regular plasterboard was used by mistake on a few walls instead of soundbloc board. All these walls failed the decibel testing. If i remember correctly they had to be re-slabbed with soundbloc board to get the pass required.

slavetothegrind

i would think totally decoupling the new stud wall from the party wall would be a better job, i know it takes an extra 50mm off the room but the gap will add greatly to the sound transmission reduction

Also no harm examining the brick party wall, if there are gaps in the blockwork it would be beneficial to plaster this over just to seal the wall so no air ( sound) can pass through, the extra mass of a bit of cement plaster will also aid in reduction of sound transmission

I cannot give you figures on this but i think kingspan have reduction figures for different wall constructions on their website

stefan idiot jones

I built a room within a room recording studio last year for a college in Waterford, and when I did my walls (two of them with a cavity) I was advised to use different thicknesses and materials for the covering. i.e. 10mm plasterboard taped and jointed, 12mm fibreboard taped and jointed then 12mm plasterboard taped and jointed. Worked a treat. All staggered of course even the internal and external corners.
The more layers, different thicknesses and density of material and cavities has an impact on noise reduction. Plus screws are better than nails for noise. If you can use greenglue or something similar to create cavities between your sheets do so as noise doesnt travel well through air.
I used two layers of 6mm acoustic rubber, 18mm ply, 4 x 2, 18mm ply filled with five tonnes of sand for the floor. Then built my two walls on top of those without either of them touching each other.
Good luck.

mrcheez

mfceiling wrote: »

Just on the difference being negligible - the last company i worked for did a fit out in dublin airport. Regular plasterboard was used by mistake on a few walls instead of soundbloc board. All these walls failed the decibel testing. If i remember correctly they had to be re-slabbed with soundbloc board to get the pass required.

Interesting, I'll consider it again.

deeds372

mrcheez wrote: »

Interesting, I'll consider it again.

How did you get on?

galwaytt

mrcheez wrote: »

SoundBloc board is included in Quote 2 in the OP. I've done a bit of research on this and it's basically a denser variety of plasterboard and the difference is supposed to be negligible.

A better solution is to use "dampened" plasterboard, or to use GreenGlue between the 1st and 2nd layer of plasterboard. My builder is looking into whether he can get it in Ireland.

Anyone know where you can pick it up here?

The difference using Soundbloc is not negligible - it is significant. I'd go cot Option 1 But with Soundbloc. Also known as echeck (blue paper).

mrcheez

deeds372 wrote: »

How did you get on?

Pretty good, noise is about 10% what it used to be. Can still hear very low bass notes as the soundwaves are longer, but they're muffled.

MayBea

mrcheez wrote: »

Pretty good, noise is about 10% what it used to be. Can still hear very low bass notes as the soundwaves are longer, but they're muffled.

Can I ask what quote did you go with eventually? I'm interested in getting this done myself. Can you please PM me the name of the company/builder who did the soundproofing for you.

Thank you.

mrcheez

MayBea wrote: »

Can I ask what quote did you go with eventually? I'm interested in getting this done myself. Can you please PM me the name of the company/builder who did the soundproofing for you.

Thank you.

PM sent

Calahonda52

soundproofing one area where one size does not fit all.
Need to consider sound transmission through wall vents, window vents and in older, terraced houses, look in the attic to see what state the party wall is: also a good time to check it out for fire breaks.
Lastly, density as well as flexible material to buffer the movement, which is like the skin on a drum, are key so expanded foam, often used for gaps is 100% rubbish

philipb

Hey there - I'm also fitting out a podcast studio in work, and would love to know the builder you used. All help appreciated! Thanks,
Phil

philipb

Hey there - I'm also fitting out a podcast studio in work, and would love to know the builder you used. All help appreciated! Thanks,
Phil

mrcheez

Will do. I just had my bathroom soundproofed and the difference is amazing.

lilywhitearmy

Well, this is interesting. The missus just happened to mention this tonight as the sound of next door banging knives and forks on their plates is starting to be the last straw. Our house is semi-detached and the living rooms are adjoined and we hear absolutely everything, and vice versa I'd imagine. Maybe a silly question but does the chimney breast wall need need to be done?

Anyway, we'd only be looking at getting two walls done - the living room and our own bedroom. If you could let me know the builder used and a rough price, it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

mrcheez

lilywhitearmy wrote: »

Well, this is interesting. The missus just happened to mention this tonight as the sound of next door banging knives and forks on their plates is starting to be the last straw. Our house is semi-detached and the living rooms are adjoined and we hear absolutely everything, and vice versa I'd imagine. Maybe a silly question but does the chimney breast wall need need to be done?

Anyway, we'd only be looking at getting two walls done - the living room and our own bedroom. If you could let me know the builder used and a rough price, it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

sure can send on PM.

I have both party walls done as I'm mid-terrace. The bathroom wasn't done as it was too expensive, but I recently had the bathroom re-fitted so decided to get that done.

It's actually made the entire party wall 100 times better now since noise coming through the bathroom wall was getting down to the other rooms via the ceiling etc.

You really need to get the entire side of the house done for this to be really effective. Pricey but worth it, and you make back the money when you sell the house anyway as it comes certified and is a great selling point, not to mention raising your BER rating.

Regarding the chimney breast, put your ear to it and see if you can hear much noise. If yes then you may need to discuss that with the guy when he's on site. My chimney wall didn't need any alteration though.

scarbouro

mrcheez wrote: »

sure can send on PM.

I have both party walls done as I'm mid-terrace. The bathroom wasn't done as it was too expensive, but I recently had the bathroom re-fitted so decided to get that done.

It's actually made the entire party wall 100 times better now since noise coming through the bathroom wall was getting down to the other rooms via the ceiling etc.

You really need to get the entire side of the house done for this to be really effective. Pricey but worth it, and you make back the money when you sell the house anyway as it comes certified and is a great selling point, not to mention raising your BER rating.

Regarding the chimney breast, put your ear to it and see if you can hear much noise. If yes then you may need to discuss that with the guy when he's on site. My chimney wall didn't need any alteration though.

Hi, would you mind PM me the company you went with and cost please. We're in the same boat the the moment and looking to get the party wall done. Thank you.

NoNamePerson

mrcheez wrote: »

sure can send on PM.

I have both party walls done as I'm mid-terrace. The bathroom wasn't done as it was too expensive, but I recently had the bathroom re-fitted so decided to get that done.

It's actually made the entire party wall 100 times better now since noise coming through the bathroom wall was getting down to the other rooms via the ceiling etc.

You really need to get the entire side of the house done for this to be really effective. Pricey but worth it, and you make back the money when you sell the house anyway as it comes certified and is a great selling point, not to mention raising your BER rating.

Regarding the chimney breast, put your ear to it and see if you can hear much noise. If yes then you may need to discuss that with the guy when he's on site. My chimney wall didn't need any alteration though.

I would really appreciate if you can PM me details of the exact work you got done too. I've just moved into a brand new A rated semi-D house and can still hear the neighbours....very dissapointing....

If you can let me know the costs too that would be really great - thank you!

mrcheez

I've tried getting in contact with the company I used recently about something else, but I can't seem to get through so can't really recommend them at the moment.

I'm sure there are loads of companies doing it though if you google around.

NoNamePerson

mrcheez wrote: »

I've tried getting in contact with the company I used recently about something else, but I can't seem to get through so can't really recommend them at the moment.

I'm sure there are loads of companies doing it though if you google around.

If you can let me know a rough cost that would be really helpful...I have no clue whatsoever about how much it could cost.

Also - does it help with the noise of doors banging?

mrcheez

NoNamePerson wrote: »

If you can let me know a rough cost that would be really helpful...I have no clue whatsoever about how much it could cost.

Also - does it help with the noise of doors banging?

Cost is approx €1,500 for say a 3m wall, but there are lots of other costs if you try soundproofing the entire SIDE of the house (e.g. separating stair from the wall etc). Then you are talking more around the 8K mark for both sides of the house ex VAT. Around 10K with VAT.

You have to consider also that your room will come in 6 cm so new skirting boards, plugs have to be mounted on wall surface, new coving, cutting into ceiling, doors may have to be moved if currently flush with the edge.

Big undertaking.

Eliminates smaller sounds, but doesn't completely eliminate loud noise. Muffles it down to about 30% strength of what it was originally.

Door banging sounds or anything involve vibrations of the wall can be tough to eliminate, but will definitely be lessened.

NoNamePerson

mrcheez wrote: »

Cost is approx €1,500 for say a 3m wall, but there are lots of other costs if you try soundproofing the entire SIDE of the house (e.g. separating stair from the wall etc). Then you are talking more around the 8K mark for both sides of the house ex VAT. Around 10K with VAT.

You have to consider also that your room will come in 6 cm so new skirting boards, plugs have to be mounted on wall surface, new coving, cutting into ceiling, doors may have to be moved if currently flush with the edge.

Big undertaking.

Eliminates smaller sounds, but doesn't completely eliminate loud noise. Muffles it down to about 30% strength of what it was originally.

Door banging sounds or anything involve vibrations of the wall can be tough to eliminate, but will definitely be lessened.

For the price of €1,500 for one room...did you go for Quote 1 or Quote 2?
Did you feel it was money well spent?


QUOTE 1 (list of layers from brick wall)

- "SonaSwing" acoustic battens (50mm) at 600mm centres
- "RW A 45" 50mm insulation in between battens
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish

QUOTE 2 (list of layers from brick wall)

- Wooden battens (50mm) with layer of acoustic tape on both sides
- 50mm "high density rockwool" in between battens
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish

mrcheez

NoNamePerson wrote: »

For the price of €1,500 for one room...did you go for Quote 1 or Quote 2?
Did you feel it was money well spent?


QUOTE 1 (list of layers from brick wall)

- "SonaSwing" acoustic battens (50mm) at 600mm centres
- "RW A 45" 50mm insulation in between battens
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard
- 1 layer of standard plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish

QUOTE 2 (list of layers from brick wall)

- Wooden battens (50mm) with layer of acoustic tape on both sides
- 50mm "high density rockwool" in between battens
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard
- 1 layer of acoustic plasterboard (overlapping joins of previous)
- Plaster finish

I went for QUOTE 1, although I got recent work done in the bathroom (which I hadn't included in the original build) which adds another vibration-absorbing layer between the 2 plasterboards and the difference is very noticeable (they added this material to the process since my original build).

9K for the house including a new staircase. It was certainly money well spent as it also increased the house insulation meaning a very warm house.

It would have been nice if they had come up with the vibration-absorbing layer when I was getting the original work done, but that's the nature of the building business and building materials/processes are always evolving.

Still, it make the house feel more "solid" so happy overall, and I make the money back when I sell the house as "soundproofing" is definitely an attractive feature.

NoNamePerson

mrcheez wrote: »

I went for QUOTE 1, although I got recent work done in the bathroom (which I hadn't included in the original build) which adds another vibration-absorbing layer between the 2 plasterboards and the difference is very noticeable (they added this material to the process since my original build).

9K for the house including a new staircase. It was certainly money well spent as it also increased the house insulation meaning a very warm house.

It would have been nice if they had come up with the vibration-absorbing layer when I was getting the original work done, but that's the nature of the building business and building materials/processes are always evolving.

Still, it make the house feel more "solid" so happy overall, and I make the money back when I sell the house as "soundproofing" is definitely an attractive feature.

Yes perhaps a lot of money...but being able to relax and enjoy peace in your own home is massively important!

So did you take the stairs off completely?

I would only need a sitting room (plain wall with no fireplace) and kitchen done but there are kitchen presses and worktop on / built against the wall so I am worried this would be a big job?

I wasn't planning on getting the two bedrooms upstairs on the partywall done as they are spare rooms - do you think they would need to be done to have maximum effect on the downstairs rooms?

If you could PM the company you used that would be really great...I know you said they were uncontactable but just in case they start operating again it would be great!

thanks for all your help on this!

mrcheez

NoNamePerson wrote: »

Yes perhaps a lot of money...but being able to relax and enjoy peace in your own home is massively important!

So did you take the stairs off completely?

I would only need a sitting room (plain wall with no fireplace) and kitchen done but there are kitchen presses and worktop on / built against the wall so I am worried this would be a big job?

Sure can PM you the company (they should be giving me a commission at this stage!).

I got the stairs replaced due to:
(a) it was squeaking a lot anyway
(b) it was either that, or narrow down the hallway, so I opted for a narrower staircase. Wise decision as you'd hardly notice the stair was 6cm less then typical.

Yes everything attached to the wall would have to come down and the kitchen would be unusable for a few days so you'd need to factor that sort of stuff in (when I got the soundproofing done I wasn't living there).

You may not need to get the upstairs done if no noise is coming in from there.