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Sand paper for sanding a dinning table

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  • 15-03-2013 12:06am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭


    Hi, i am planning to sand my dinning table by hand, anyone know What grit sanding paper should I use? and What grit sanding paper to use when I put few coats of varnishing?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If it's not too bad I would go with 220 grit if it is bad start with 80 then 150 and finish with 220 then 320 between coats. On the finish coat start with 600,800,1200 and 1500 wet sanding let the varnish dry for as long as possible the longer the better and then finish with fine rubbing compound and wax this should give you a perfect finnish.
    Good luck.






    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    Thanks for the reply, that is really help, can you plz let me know where can i get the fine rubbing compound and wax ? would B&Q or woddy DIY stock them?

    fergal.b wrote: »
    If it's not too bad I would go with 220 grit if it is bad start with 80 then 150 and finish with 220 then 320 between coats. On the finish coat start with 600,800,1200 and 1500 wet sanding let the varnish dry for as long as possible the longer the better and then finish with fine rubbing compound and wax this should give you a perfect finnish.
    Good luck.






    .


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I'd say your best bet would be a motor factors or Halfords they will also have the fine wet and dry paper.





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  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    fergal.b wrote: »
    I'd say your best bet would be a motor factors or Halfords they will also have the fine wet and dry paper.





    .

    sorry, you mean fine wet is fine rubbing compound? and dry paper is sanding paper? I am not Irish, really dont know what you mean, thanks


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    The sandpaper is called wet and dry it will not fall apart when you wet sand. If you are using an angle grinder type polisher it's handy to use a water spray bottle to keep it wet and stop it from burning especially on new varnish if you are doing it by hand you should be fine.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    fergal.b wrote: »
    The sandpaper is called wet and dry it will not fall apart when you wet sand. If you are using an angle grinder type polisher it's handy to use a water spray bottle to keep it wet and stop it from burning especially on new varnish if you are doing it by hand you should be fine.




    .

    thanks so the sandpaper is called wet and dry, dose halford have fine rubbing compound and wax?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    you2008 wrote: »
    thanks so the sandpaper is called wet and dry, dose halford have fine rubbing compound and wax?

    Yes I'd say so.




    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Yes I'd say so.




    .

    thanks, it seems a busy bank holiday for me :p, by the way, how long you say i should leave to dry between each coat? 5 hours?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    5 hours should be fine depending on the temperature your working in and the varnish your using it can be anything between 3-6 hours. If posable leave the last coat for as long as you can before you do the finish work it will look ok and you could use it for the moment but it will be a lot harder after a week or two and easier to polish. You could always do a little test patch under the table and see how it works out. When your sanding use a sanding block to keep the surface level or if you have one an orbital sander works even better.




    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    fergal.b wrote: »
    5 hours should be fine depending on the temperature your working in and the varnish your using it can be anything between 3-6 hours. If posable leave the last coat for as long as you can before you do the finish work it will look ok and you could use it for the moment but it will be a lot harder after a week or two and easier to polish. You could always do a little test patch under the table and see how it works out. When your sanding use a sanding block to keep the surface level or if you have one an orbital sander works even better.




    .

    that is great help, thanks for that, have a nice weekend!


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If you put on the varnish by roll and tipping you can get quite a smooth finish you might even be happy with that, remember after sanding each coat give it a wipe down with a damp lint free cloth to remove any dust,always sand with the grain and if you get little rolls of varnish instead of dust the varnish is still wet.
    Have fun :D




  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    fergal.b wrote: »
    If you put on the varnish by roll and tipping you can get quite a smooth finish you might even be happy with that, remember after sanding each coat give it a wipe down with a damp lint free cloth to remove any dust,always sand with the grain and if you get little rolls of varnish instead of dust the varnish is still wet.
    Have fun :D



    unbelievable finish... thanks for that, by the way, :P is that you in the video??


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,328 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    No it's not me but I do build boats and I do like a good varnish finish :D

    004.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Eh.....are you really going to sand a table back to bare wood by hand ? Allow about a month and a lot of blood sweat and tears.
    On the other hand just flattening it might work but the result will be a little patchy. The varnish will not 'cover' the patches - they will show through the new varnish. I would beg, borrow or steal a random orbital sander and sand it back to bare wood. You can then opt to stain it or just re-varnish but you will have a consistant surface. Please stay away from coloured varnishes as they always look fake.
    Lastly the key to getting a good finish is to invest in a quality brush.


  • Registered Users Posts: 710 ✭✭✭you2008


    recipio wrote: »
    Eh.....are you really going to sand a table back to bare wood by hand ? Allow about a month and a lot of blood sweat and tears.
    On the other hand just flattening it might work but the result will be a little patchy. The varnish will not 'cover' the patches - they will show through the new varnish. I would beg, borrow or steal a random orbital sander and sand it back to bare wood. You can then opt to stain it or just re-varnish but you will have a consistant surface. Please stay away from coloured varnishes as they always look fake.
    Lastly the key to getting a good finish is to invest in a quality brush.

    thanks for the reply, yea, i might need a orbital sander all right!! a quality brush will cost about ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    you2008 wrote: »
    thanks for the reply, yea, i might need a orbital sander all right!! a quality brush will cost about ??

    About 10 -15 euros in a good paint shop.


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