Where to live in Wicklow

ElKavo

Hello All Wicklowers,

We, Myself herself and the three winks 13, 5 & 3 are looking a to move to Wicklow. We are just looking for a few Ideas of where to go. We currently live in Laois in a small town land with little to no services. The only thing we have really is a primary school and a football pitch. I work in Dundrum and commute everyday (approx 3 hours) My 13 yo is attending secondary school and currently gets a bus which is to be canceled within the next year or so.

So what are we looking for. Well as I said we are in a small town land but would like to be within walking distance to a town that would have some services I.E. Shop, Sports facilities, Chemist, Service station, Cafe and possibly playground. Within reasonable distance I.E 15 - 20 min drive to a larger town for weekly shop and other services. We would also need bus links to a secondary school ideally public but if serviced by the post primary transport scheme that would suit also. I don't have an issue with commute but ideally If I could cut the commute down to say 2 hrs or less per day that would be brilliant as I can spend more time at home with family. We would like somewhere that is within a short enough drive to a beach too again 15 - 20 min ( we would like to have our forever home on the sea so as close as possible would be great) We currently own our home in laois and are paying a reasonable mortgage on it. If we rent the house in Laois it should wash its own face, roughly. We would be looking to spend in the region of 1k pm in rental but could stretch to 1.2k for a great property in ideal location as we would ideally like to save a deposit to buy presuming that we find an area that we like.

We had heard that ashford was a very nice place, I didn't remember it till I street viewed it. Then it came back to me. I remember it as being quite dirty and having a boy racer issue in the past. Perhaps someone from the area may be able to tell me different. We had looked at avoca too and this looks to be quite a good bet but I'm unsure as to the bus situation with services to secondary schools. Also in the summer months unsure as to busyness with tourist buses.

Arklow again unsure. I have done business here before and there always seems to be loads of "youngones" hanging around. Not really what we are looking for. I get the impression that there is an anti social behaviour issue there. As I say I stand to be corrected

Wicklow town unsure, again as with arklow.

Hopefully the good people of Wicklow could point us in the right direction.

Many thanks for all your advice.

D

RH149

Wicklow Town, Bray or Greystones sound like a better fit for you if you want those ammenities and your commute to be in the 2 hr region (obviously less if you chose Bray or Greystones). Bray would be cheaper in terms of rent than Greystones but schools could be an issue as the decent secondary schools in Bray are oversubscribed.

Have a look at Rents on myhome.ie or daft as you might well find something in Greystones and it ticks all the other boxes too.

lottpaul

Worked in Wicklow, Dublin and Wexford for many years so know that area very well.
Ashford is a nice village, quiet now since it's been bypassed, shops, pub, service stations etc, GAA club, 2 primary schools and bus connections for 2nd level in Wicklow. Good public transport too. Last time I was there I thought it had changed a lot though so my impression may be a bit out of date.
A place I always liked was Rathdrum - commute would be longer, it does have a railway station, not too many buses though, and winter weather could be a problem. Primary schools and a community college, shops, etc etc and great countryside nearby - Avondale, Glendalough, Avoca etc etc. An "older" type of town - doesnt seem to have been affected by the Tiger as much as Ashford.
Roundwood is a nice spot too but a lot smaller and far less amenities.
The bigger towns -- Wicklow, Arklow, Bray, Greystones etc -- much as towns anywhere - good parts, less good parts, lots of facilities. Very much personal choice and price factors.
Enniskerry is nice but has become part of the Dublin "sprawl".
Villages like Redcross, Glenealy etc are prob too small for what you need and places like Rathnew, Kilcoole etc are now really just suburbs of their bigger neighbours.

swedex

Arklow again unsure. I have done business here before and there always seems to be loads of "youngones" hanging around. Not really what we are looking for. I get the impression that there is an anti social behaviour issue there.

Poor Arklow, it never had the best of reputations. Sadly, it is a bit of a tired town though.

In case you don't know, the M11 Arklow - Rathnew stretch is due to start work in May/June (apparently) which may add delays to your commute if you were living in Arklow.

Maudi

ElKavo wrote: »

Hello All Wicklowers,

We, Myself herself and the three winks 13, 5 & 3 are looking a to move to Wicklow. We are just looking for a few Ideas of where to go. We currently live in Laois in a small town land with little to no services. The only thing we have really is a primary school and a football pitch. I work in Dundrum and commute everyday (approx 3 hours) My 13 yo is attending secondary school and currently gets a bus which is to be canceled within the next year or so.

So what are we looking for. Well as I said we are in a small town land but would like to be within walking distance to a town that would have some services I.E. Shop, Sports facilities, Chemist, Service station, Cafe and possibly playground. Within reasonable distance I.E 15 - 20 min drive to a larger town for weekly shop and other services. We would also need bus links to a secondary school ideally public but if serviced by the post primary transport scheme that would suit also. I don't have an issue with commute but ideally If I could cut the commute down to say 2 hrs or less per day that would be brilliant as I can spend more time at home with family. We would like somewhere that is within a short enough drive to a beach too again 15 - 20 min ( we would like to have our forever home on the sea so as close as possible would be great) We currently own our home in laois and are paying a reasonable mortgage on it. If we rent the house in Laois it should wash its own face, roughly. We would be looking to spend in the region of 1k pm in rental but could stretch to 1.2k for a great property in ideal location as we would ideally like to save a deposit to buy presuming that we find an area that we like.

We had heard that ashford was a very nice place, I didn't remember it till I street viewed it. Then it came back to me. I remember it as being quite dirty and having a boy racer issue in the past. Perhaps someone from the area may be able to tell me different. We had looked at avoca too and this looks to be quite a good bet but I'm unsure as to the bus situation with services to secondary schools. Also in the summer months unsure as to busyness with tourist buses.

Arklow again unsure. I have done business here before and there always seems to be loads of "youngones" hanging around. Not really what we are looking for. I get the impression that there is an anti social behaviour issue there. As I say I stand to be corrected

Wicklow town unsure, again as with arklow.

Hopefully the good people of Wicklow could point us in the right direction.

Many thanks for all your advice.

D

arklow is a great town with great ameanities and lovely people countryside and history..rathdrum is a wonderful town too.ashford is very pretty and has great places to eat and visit..i never heard a bad word about it..although im originally from bray and think its the best place on the east coast i must admit i love living in greystones.the people.the town itself.the beaches.the surrounding hills and forests greystones is special.

ElKavo

RH149 wrote: »

Wicklow Town, Bray or Greystones sound like a better fit for you if you want those ammenities and your commute to be in the 2 hr region (obviously less if you chose Bray or Greystones). Bray would be cheaper in terms of rent than Greystones but schools could be an issue as the decent secondary schools in Bray are oversubscribed.

Have a look at Rents on myhome.ie or daft as you might well find something in Greystones and it ticks all the other boxes too.

Thanks RH149,

Not too keen on bray (not to cause offense to anyone from bray mind) Would love greystones I have been here numerous times and think the place is great. Rent is the only issue. Doubt we'll get much for our 1.2k. Thanks again

ElKavo

lottpaul wrote: »

Worked in Wicklow, Dublin and Wexford for many years so know that area very well.
Ashford is a nice village, quiet now since it's been bypassed, shops, pub, service stations etc, GAA club, 2 primary schools and bus connections for 2nd level in Wicklow. Good public transport too. Last time I was there I thought it had changed a lot though so my impression may be a bit out of date.
A place I always liked was Rathdrum - commute would be longer, it does have a railway station, not too many buses though, and winter weather could be a problem. Primary schools and a community college, shops, etc etc and great countryside nearby - Avondale, Glendalough, Avoca etc etc. An "older" type of town - doesnt seem to have been affected by the Tiger as much as Ashford.
Roundwood is a nice spot too but a lot smaller and far less amenities.
The bigger towns -- Wicklow, Arklow, Bray, Greystones etc -- much as towns anywhere - good parts, less good parts, lots of facilities. Very much personal choice and price factors.
Enniskerry is nice but has become part of the Dublin "sprawl".
Villages like Redcross, Glenealy etc are prob too small for what you need and places like Rathnew, Kilcoole etc are now really just suburbs of their bigger neighbours.

Thanks lottpaul,

Thats a great amount of info to mull over. We would be happy enough in a smaller town as thats what we are used to at this stage. I never thought of round wood but to be honest I think it is too far out from the m11 for commute and would be a high risk area in winter months. Would like enniskerry but as with greystones don't think our budget would stretch to it. Ashford is looking like it may be back in the running. Thanks again

ElKavo

swedex wrote: »

Poor Arklow, it never had the best of reputations. Sadly, it is a bit of a tired town though.

In case you don't know, the M11 Arklow - Rathnew stretch is due to start work in May/June (apparently) which may add delays to your commute if you were living in Arklow.

Thanks Swedex,

I know, I don't want to cause offense just called it as I have seen it. Interesting on the m11 to rathnew though. I wasn't aware of an extension. Perhaps this will put further south in to the pot also. Do you know when the expected completion date is? Cheers

ElKavo

Maudi wrote: »

arklow is a great town with great ameanities and lovely people countryside and history..rathdrum is a wonderful town too.ashford is very pretty and has great places to eat and visit..i never heard a bad word about it..although im originally from bray and think its the best place on the east coast i must admit i love living in greystones.the people.the town itself.the beaches.the surrounding hills and forests greystones is special.

Hi Maudi,

Thanks for the info. I must have a look at rathdrum. its come up a few times now. Again We would love to go to greystones but I doubt our budget will stretch. Thanks again.

fenris

If you are moving for a major change in lifestyle, i.e. easy access to transport, shops schools, reduced commuting time, actual facilities/clubs for the kids and yourself to get active etc. then I would not write off Bray too quickly.

It is the sweet spot beyond where the bus/DART options/frequency drop off, listen to the traffic reports in the morning, the Glen of the Downs, Kilmacanogue, N11 are frequent sources of delay and are below Bray. Unless you really enjoy sitting in the car as an oasis of calm for hours and hours look at the move as a means of cutting down that commute and getting back some time to actually live.

I lived in Bray for 12 years and was made very welcome, the town itself is neither here nor there in terms of the shops and you probably wouldn't be able to get parking anyway, but you will probably do most of your shopping in Tesco or Superquinn anyway, for anything else you would probably end up heading into Dublin or Dundrum.

There is a huge amount going on from a kid perspective, lots of options for sport and other activities and in fairness it is through those activities that you will get to know people. Bray Emmets is a fantastic place to start.

Regarding places to live there are plenty of really nice family friendly areas in Bray, feel free to PM if you want recommendations.

I have recently moved to Greystones from Bray and Greystones is fantastic, we have been made very welcome and there is a real feeling of community, but the difference in commute options is noticeable especially if you are trying to get back in time for a child minder, there are less options and you are much more prone to disruption by flood etc. than Bray.
I would not suggest going much further south as you will just end up spending your life in the car.

Enniskerry might be worth a look also. Lots of people love to rant about Bray regardless of ever having been there, don't let it put you off, it is a good place for kids and is a nice balance between the urban/sub-urban Dublin sprawl and having easy access to the beaches and hills of Wicklow.

Annasopra

ElKavo wrote: »

Hi Maudi,

Thanks for the info. I must have a look at rathdrum. its come up a few times now. Again We would love to go to greystones but I doubt our budget will stretch. Thanks again.

What about kilcoole?

kravmaga

What about Newtownmountkennedy, some new housing went in over the boom period, a friend of mine lives there and commutes to Dublin on DART from Greystones.

RH149

Have you had a look at the rentals available in Greystones? I know people renting in Redford Park and don't know exactly what the rent is but can guess their budget would be around 1000 (form other things she has said) and Charlesland (outskirts of Greystones-newer developments) was reasonable ( a lot of 'buy to let' properties- mostly apartments but some duplex townhouses I think) and the amenities are improving there.

ElKavo

kravmaga wrote: »

What about Newtownmountkennedy, some new housing went in over the boom period, a friend of mine lives there and commutes to Dublin on DART from Greystones.

Cheers Kravmaga, Is Newtown nice? I have heard mixed reports.

ElKavo

RH149 wrote: »

Have you had a look at the rentals available in Greystones? I know people renting in Redford Park and don't know exactly what the rent is but can guess their budget would be around 1000 (form other things she has said) and Charlesland (outskirts of Greystones-newer developments) was reasonable ( a lot of 'buy to let' properties- mostly apartments but some duplex townhouses I think) and the amenities are improving there.

Hi RH149, I have been looking at greystones ( would love it here) but we are looking for a four bed house. They seem to be rare enough and the budget is very strict at a max of 1.2k.

Annasopra

ElKavo wrote: »

Hi RH149, I have been looking at greystones ( would love it here) but we are looking for a four bed house. They seem to be rare enough and the budget is very strict at a max of 1.2k.

http://www.daft.ie/searchrental.daft?id=1319672

zoobizoo

Not sure why you wouldn't be keen on Bray. I've lived here since I was a kid and traveled the world and still come back to it. While it has its issues, like many towns, it has way more positives than negatives.

There's a nice small enough town feel to the place and once you get involved in various groups, it's easy to make friends.

I have lived in Greystones but it was a bit quiet for me - I have no kids though.

The commute to Dundrum wouldn't be long in the mornings and the benefit of being on the DART line and bus routes is enormous.

Have you come to have a look at it?

ElKavo

mango salsa wrote: »

http://www.daft.ie/searchrental.daft?id=1319672

Hey mango thanks. We are really looking for a house as opposed to an apartment / town house. We want a garden for the kids and our own space. Thanks though. I stopped into avoca today after a meeting nearby. Looked great just need to see about secondary school links and other facilities in the vicinity.

Annasopra

ElKavo wrote: »

Hey mango thanks. We are really looking for a house as opposed to an apartment / town house. We want a garden for the kids and our own space. Thanks though. I stopped into avoca today after a meeting nearby. Looked great just need to see about secondary school links and other facilities in the vicinity.

Ok but you're either going to have to choose between a long commute or a house. Commuting from Avoca or Rathdrum would be tough enough I think personally.

If it is a tick the box exercise you would get all of the below -

* within walking distance to a town that would have some services I.E. Shop, Sports facilities, Chemist, Service station, Cafe and possibly playground.
* Within reasonable distance I.E 15 - 20 min drive to a larger town for weekly shop and other services.
* bus links to a secondary school ideally public but if serviced by the post primary transport scheme that would suit also.
* ideally If I could cut the commute down to say 2 hrs or less per day that would be brilliant as I can spend more time at home with family.
* somewhere that is within a short enough drive to a beach too again 15 - 20 min


I think Charlesland in Greystones is perfect for what you are looking for. It has ALL of the above plus a small playground, a recreational park nearby, a swimming pool nearby, a rugby club and tennis club nearby, a supermarket and chemist on your doorstep.

Lyssa

ElKavo wrote: »

Hey mango thanks. We are really looking for a house as opposed to an apartment / town house. We want a garden for the kids and our own space. Thanks though. I stopped into avoca today after a meeting nearby. Looked great just need to see about secondary school links and other facilities in the vicinity.

Avoca is nice, there is a very good primary school and (mainly private) buses that service the Post-primary schools in both Arklow and Rathdrum.
It's a small village, not a huge amount of infrastructure, you have 1 pub, grocery shop, pharmacy, chipper, church in the village itself.
It is serviced by a Bus Eireann bus a couple of times a day so you can get to Arklow/Rathdrum/Dublin etc.
Commute isn't too bad, especially if you can work Flexi time in work and you are not trying to get into the City Centre in the mornings.
Am from Avoca, most of my family still live there and live in Arklow at the mo, so if you have any specific questions, just ask!

ElKavo

mango salsa wrote: »

Ok but you're either going to have to choose between a long commute or a house. Commuting from Avoca or Rathdrum would be tough enough I think personally.

If it is a tick the box exercise you would get all of the below -

* within walking distance to a town that would have some services I.E. Shop, Sports facilities, Chemist, Service station, Cafe and possibly playground.
* Within reasonable distance I.E 15 - 20 min drive to a larger town for weekly shop and other services.
* bus links to a secondary school ideally public but if serviced by the post primary transport scheme that would suit also.
* ideally If I could cut the commute down to say 2 hrs or less per day that would be brilliant as I can spend more time at home with family.
* somewhere that is within a short enough drive to a beach too again 15 - 20 min


I think Charlesland in Greystones is perfect for what you are looking for. It has ALL of the above plus a small playground, a recreational park nearby, a swimming pool nearby, a rugby club and tennis club nearby, a supermarket and chemist on your doorstep.

Hi Mango,

Thanks again for your reply, Yes, A house is more important to us than the commute thb. I work from 10 am till 6 pm so I generally would miss the heavy traffic. Don't want to do the whole apartment living thing either. If I could afford the 1.5k plus for a house in greystones Id jump on it believe me. I have google mapped it and it looks like commute time is about 45 min. I'm going to presume that this is without traffic. Perhaps the m11 extension that is to start soon will help in reducing this further.

Cheers

fenris

your driving home commute time may be far longer than you expect, leaving Dundrum at 18:00 puts you right in the middle of heavy traffic going south, wait until the kids are back at school and pick a midweek day (Tuesdays tend to be bad for traffic) and just drive the route as if you were commuting home, it will also give you a chance to see places on a typical day instead of a weekend.

You may find yourself longing for an earlier exit from the N11, I commuted from Laragh to the city centre for a while last year, you can get very very tired of sitting behind buses and hire cars tootling merrily along when all you wan to do is get home.

ElKavo

Mylina wrote: »

Avoca is nice, there is a very good primary school and (mainly private) buses that service the Post-primary schools in both Arklow and Rathdrum.
It's a small village, not a huge amount of infrastructure, you have 1 pub, grocery shop, pharmacy, chipper, church in the village itself.
It is serviced by a Bus Eireann bus a couple of times a day so you can get to Arklow/Rathdrum/Dublin etc.
Commute isn't too bad, especially if you can work Flexi time in work and you are not trying to get into the City Centre in the mornings.
Am from Avoca, most of my family still live there and live in Arklow at the mo, so if you have any specific questions, just ask!

Hi Mylina,

Thanks for your reply. As I said I stopped of yesterday after a meeting in the Tap. Firstly I was quite surprised at how close it was to my office (only about 40 min at 3 o clock)
Secondly, wow what a beautiful area of the country that is. I had passed through woodenbridge several times on the route home over the years if I was ever in arklow on business and never once took the 2 min to have a look at avoca.
Thirdly, Yes it does seem to have pretty much everything that we are looking for bar a playground ( this is a wish not a necessity )

Do you know if the Primary school has places available or is it full to capacity? ( Obviously we will speak to the school before we move)

How are the locals? I know that some areas can be quite clickey.

Perhaps you can tell me how is it getting around during the winter months? I.E have you been snowed / frozen in on a regular basis.

Did you travel to arklow / wicklow for secondary school?

Thanks for your reply.

ElKavo

fenris wrote: »

your driving home commute time may be far longer than you expect, leaving Dundrum at 18:00 puts you right in the middle of heavy traffic going south, wait until the kids are back at school and pick a midweek day (Tuesdays tend to be bad for traffic) and just drive the route as if you were commuting home, it will also give you a chance to see places on a typical day instead of a weekend.

You may find yourself longing for an earlier exit from the N11, I commuted from Laragh to the city centre for a while last year, you can get very very tired of sitting behind buses and hire cars tootling merrily along when all you wan to do is get home.

Thanks for the tip Fernis, I must give that a try later on after the schools go back. Do you know when this m11 upgrade is to begin / end.

ElKavo

zoobizoo wrote: »

Not sure why you wouldn't be keen on Bray. I've lived here since I was a kid and traveled the world and still come back to it. While it has its issues, like many towns, it has way more positives than negatives.

There's a nice small enough town feel to the place and once you get involved in various groups, it's easy to make friends.

I have lived in Greystones but it was a bit quiet for me - I have no kids though.

The commute to Dundrum wouldn't be long in the mornings and the benefit of being on the DART line and bus routes is enormous.

Have you come to have a look at it?

Hi zoobizoo,

Thanks for your reply. I don't want to cause offense to any one or area. I'm sure that bray is a perfectly nice area with plenty of amenities. We just don't feel bray if you know what I mean. We are currently living in a very rural part of the country and I think that we would like to stay out of a majorly built up area like bray. Perhaps we are looking for the impossible but I figured that no better people to ask rather than the people in the areas. Thanks again

lottpaul

ElKavo wrote: »

Thanks for the tip Fernis, I must give that a try later on after the schools go back. Do you know when this m11 upgrade is to begin / end.

The M11 "gap" section is due to start in summer of this year and will take 2 years (according to a contact I have who farms on the route). Mind you he was told the same last year,,,, and the year before that :rolleyes: but they have cleared the route to allow machinery in and farmers have been warned to have all livestock etc away from the route. I'm not sure if it would affect your commute a lot though if you're travelling from e.g. Avoca. There will just be 2 access points - Jack Whites and the Beehive. As for winter weather etc the N11 is always looked after very well but other roads can be tricky -- but in fairness its not too regular a happening.

ElKavo

Hi Mylina,

Thanks for your speedy and informative reply. Now all I have to do is work out how the commute time is going to be under normal circumstances. It can take me up to 2.5 hrs to get home on a Friday as it stands, but a typical journey is about 1.5 hrs. Any improvement on this will be a serious bonus to avoca.

Thanks again

ElKavo

Hi Lottopaul,

"Mind you he was told the same last year,,,, and the year before that"

LOL yeah I kind of figured that would be the case. Im guessing that the best place for me to hop off would be the behive or the arklow exit. Oh isnt journey planning fun!

Thanks for the info too.

Lyssa

ElKavo wrote: »

Hi Lottopaul,

"Mind you he was told the same last year,,,, and the year before that"

LOL yeah I kind of figured that would be the case. Im guessing that the best place for me to hop off would be the behive or the arklow exit. Oh isnt journey planning fun!

Thanks for the info too.

You can take the exit for Barndarrig / Redcross at Lil Doyles either, will bring you down into Avoca, but road isn't great.

In the evenings (you are leaving office at 6, so probably missing most of it tbh) the main bottlenecks are at the M11/N11 merge at Loughlinstown and at the Beehive.

There was flooding last week on the M11/N11 and it caused chaos, but those things are exceptions rather than the norm.

ElKavo

Thanks all wicklowers, to be honest if the people in wicklow proper are as informative and nice as you all I think we'll get along just fine.

lottpaul

Mylina wrote: »

You can take the exit for Barndarrig / Redcross at Lil Doyles either, will bring you down into Avoca, but road isn't great

In the new M11 there will only be 2 exits -- there will be none at Barndarrig - if heading to Avoca the best exit would be the Beehive and then Deputys Pass or perhaps Jack Whites and over the hill at Barniskey or Conary to Avoca -- not a good road in winter but most times you'd make Avoca in 10-12 minutes from Jack Whites.