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Downlighters in Bathroom

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  • 29-03-2013 6:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 53 ✭✭


    Hey Guys,

    Looking for a little bit of advice if someone could help. The previous owner of our house seemed to be pretty keen on DIY but I'm not sure if everything he did was done right.

    Our upstairs Bathroom and Landing were fitted with Down Lighters, but they're not closed off. I'm more concerned about the 4 in the bathroom, as steam escapes up through them in to the Attic, and I'm afraid it could lead to damp or damage.

    Would it be a big job to get an Electrician to replace the fittings with suitable / safe fittings and if so what should I be asking for? Likewise, could an Electrician install an extractor fan in the Bathroom or should I be talking to a builder for that kind of job?

    Thanks in advance,
    James


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    They need to be IP Rated.....(pic of Robus IP Rated bathroom downlight)

    They need to be sealed units so that no moisture gets to the bulb and contacts and also into the attic space.

    If they are old style bulbs then why not replace them with LED downlight bulbs.


    Philips Master are a good downlight bulb.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    They won't be completely sealed there's 2 halves and the half you see on the ceiling the finished half will have a metal/glass cover with a rubber washer around it that should fit closely to the ceiling.

    There may be gaps depending on whether you've a stippled or flat ceiling.

    If it's just a standard down light like the ones on your landing then you may have issues with bulbs literally exploding if they get wet. This will shower glass everywhere. I wouldn't be to concerned with damp issues the steam generally doesn't pass through the lights in large amounts.

    It wouldn't cost much to get an electrician in if you buy the fittings, I'd have guessed €40-50 tops or if it's someone you know the price of a pint.

    An electrician would be more than capable of installing a fan but be sure he vents it properly and not just into the attic if it's ceiling mounted. wall mounted would be your best bet which is a bit more work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Mr.Fred wrote: »
    An electrician would be more than capable of installing a fan but be sure he vents it properly and not just into the attic if it's ceiling mounted. wall mounted would be your best bet which is a bit more work.

    fit an inline fan
    that way there will be no power in the bathroom
    then you can duct out the fascia
    less mess and no cutting tiles or knocking holes in wall


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    meercat wrote: »
    fit an inline fan
    that way there will be no power in the bathroom
    then you can duct out the fascia
    less mess and no cutting tiles or knocking holes in wall


    What would be the cost difference be between an inline fan and a standard fan ceiling or wall mounted?

    "fit an inline fan that way there will be no power in the bathroom" There's no issue with having a fan in the bathroom.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Mr.Fred wrote: »
    What would be the cost difference be between an inline fan and a standard fan ceiling or wall mounted?


    probably none as its an easier fit

    "fit an inline fan that way there will be no power in the bathroom" There's no issue with having a fan in the bathroom.

    fan needs an isolator

    if you fit an inline one you can fit the isolator in attic beside it

    its not always simple to fit a wall fan in the correct zone in the bathroom,if you fit an inline one then there is no problem with position


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    meercat wrote: »


    fan needs an isolator

    if you fit an inline one you can fit the isolator in attic beside it

    its not always simple to fit a wall fan in the correct zone in the bathroom,if you fit an inline one then there is no problem with position


    True it would certainly be easier in certain situations but I'd be curious to the cost difference between the 2 fans.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Mr.Fred wrote: »
    True it would certainly be easier in certain situations but I'd be curious to the cost difference between the 2 fans.

    "googles your friend";)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    meercat wrote: »
    "googles your friend";)

    Ah but laziness is my companion :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Mr.Fred wrote: »
    Ah but laziness is my companion :D

    http://www.woodiesdiy.com/action/searchsite/wall%20fans


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    Ouch they're all feckin expensive but I see your point similar costing so inline might be the best bet. No idea on how good they are but as you were saying might well be the easiest fit.

    OP don't go to woodies :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,745 ✭✭✭meercat


    Mr.Fred wrote: »
    Ouch they're all feckin expensive but I see your point similar costing so inline might be the best bet. No idea on how good they are but as you were saying might well be the easiest fit.

    OP don't go to woodies :)

    yeah,dont go to woodies
    your local wholesaler will be much cheaper


  • Registered Users Posts: 924 ✭✭✭jjf1974


    http://www.MeteorElectrical.com/heating_fans.html or any good electrical wholesaler.


  • Registered Users Posts: 53 ✭✭Boysey


    Wow, thanks for all the information!

    Really don't like the sound of exploding light bulbs so will act sooner rather than later. The fittings themselves are the ones that allow you to move the light around so I don't think they're sealed in any way.

    I meant to ask originally - Some of the attic insulation falls through when I'm changing the bulbs which is probably another hazard in itself. Would the following type of unit protect the insulation from the light?

    http://www.meteorelectrical.com/fire-rated-lowvoltage-shower-brushed-chrome-downlight-ip65.html

    Or would I need to buy an additional cover to sit between them and the attic insulation. Getting the Attic re-insulated and boarded was my next project, so I wanted to make sure I do right by the lights and extractor fan first.

    Thanks again! Will go looking for an electrician on Tuesday.
    James


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,055 ✭✭✭Mr.Fred


    Boysey wrote: »
    Wow, thanks for all the information!

    Really don't like the sound of exploding light bulbs so will act sooner rather than later. The fittings themselves are the ones that allow you to move the light around so I don't think they're sealed in any way.

    I meant to ask originally - Some of the attic insulation falls through when I'm changing the bulbs which is probably another hazard in itself. Would the following type of unit protect the insulation from the light?

    http://www.meteorelectrical.com/fire-rated-lowvoltage-shower-brushed-chrome-downlight-ip65.html

    Or would I need to buy an additional cover to sit between them and the attic insulation. Getting the Attic re-insulated and boarded was my next project, so I wanted to make sure I do right by the lights and extractor fan first.

    Thanks again! Will go looking for an electrician on Tuesday.
    James

    Those lights are the job alright just be sure they fit in the hole that's been cut out. If as you say the lights that are in the ceiling are the eyeball ones then the hole might be quite large.

    Best take one down and get a diameter of the cut out. It's best to leave about 100mm or so clear around the lights in the attic. Although these lights are fire rated so you may be able to reduce the clearance but I wouldn't cover them anyway.

    You'll also require a transformer for those lights unless they have them in a GU10 fitting.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Voila...:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,427 ✭✭✭Dotsie~tmp


    Remember to protect the lights in the attic if insulation or plastic bags are thrown on top (overheating). I usually have MDF which i cut 20 inch and go across the joyce work. Not so much a problem with new LED, you can use a cage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 53 ✭✭Boysey


    Thanks again everyone - Just checking with some local Electricians now to see who'd be free and interested. We need our Heating Timer replaced as well now that I think about it so there's a few jobs that I can hopefully get done at the same time.

    Hope I dished out thanks to all who helped!

    Cheers
    James


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