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Mosfets and Microswitches

  • 15-04-2013 4:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,235 ✭✭✭


    Hey lads,

    Im hoping someone that's actually technically minded about airsoft gun internals can help me out here.

    Ive test out a few custom guns lately and the trigger response on them was incredible. From what i understand they were using a micro switch trigger mod combined with a mosfet that had no active break.

    So whats anyone experience with this setup?
    Is there a specific brand of micro switch or mosfet people recommend?
    Im not looking for a mosfet with any burst modes or anything, just a basic one.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 529 ✭✭✭Untamedlemon


    goodlad wrote: »
    Hey lads,

    Im hoping someone that's actually technically minded about airsoft gun internals can help me out here.

    Ive test out a few custom guns lately and the trigger response on them was incredible. From what i understand they were using a micro switch trigger mod combined with a mosfet that had no active break.

    So whats anyone experience with this setup?
    Is there a specific brand of micro switch or mosfet people recommend?
    Im not looking for a mosfet with any burst modes or anything, just a basic one.

    Mosfets with no active break are fairly easy to make yourself once you have the right tools. Evem diy mosfets improve trigger response a good bit and are well worth the time to make one.
    Check this link out for making one:http://airsofttutorials.com/tutorials.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭Inari


    Trigger response is achieved by having a low spool time for the motor (i.e. neodymium magnet high torques), quick cycle time for the gearbox (low ratio gears), and fast piston return time. Micro switches are more efficient than standard copper trigger contacts, and when combined with a MOSFET makes it a lot quicker at transferring current to the motor.

    If you want ridiculous trigger response I would use this setup:
    - Lonex A1 (Neo Magnet motor)
    - SHS 13:1 Gears
    - SHS 15 Tooth Piston
    - Short Stroke by 3-4 teeth
    - M120 Spring
    - Hair-trigger modification
    - 11.1v 20C battery

    You use a strong spring and short stroke the gears/piston so that you have a fast piston return time, and shorter overall cycle. When using a neo magnet motor, along with high voltage battery your gun will cycle much quicker. The hair trigger mod basically removes the deadspace in the trigger, whereas the rest causes the rest of the process to speed up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,006 ✭✭✭Southern Dandy


    goodlad wrote: »
    Hey lads,

    Im hoping someone that's actually technically minded about airsoft gun internals can help me out here.

    Ive test out a few custom guns lately and the trigger response on them was incredible. From what i understand they were using a micro switch trigger mod combined with a mosfet that had no active break.

    So whats anyone experience with this setup?
    Is there a specific brand of micro switch or mosfet people recommend?
    Im not looking for a mosfet with any burst modes or anything, just a basic one.

    I would personally recommend the GATE pico ssr mosfet, apparently the smallest mosfet you can buy, and I agree it is tiny. This is particularly handy when your a stuck for space like in our stock tube.

    A mosfet is an electronic switch or gate that makes your aeg run far more efficiently. Most people use these to just protect the trigger contacts from carbon build up especially with 11.1v lipo batteries, they improve trigger response times by using the trigger contacts as nothing more than a signal. This signal tells the mosfet to transfer the power directly from the battery to your motor.

    I'm not really a fan of a plug'in and play mosfets, it is far more beneficial to install a hard wired mosfet.

    Heres the link for the mosfet I mentioned above:

    http://gatee.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=84&Itemid=78&lang=en

    Here is another one that I installed in two aegs with great results, this model includes active breaking.

    http://gatee.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=77&lang=en

    These are cheap and well worth the money, if you have any technical queries they are great for technical advice, and shipping time is fast.

    Hope this helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 960 ✭✭✭jayod30


    Here is another one that I installed in two aegs with great results, this model includes active breaking.

    http://gatee.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=83&Itemid=77&lang=en

    These are cheap and well worth the money, if you have any technical queries they are great for technical advice, and shipping time is fast.

    Hope this helps.

    The second one your talking about, how big roughly is that? The MOSFET I'm looking for would have to be small but also I want the active break, depending in its size it might just fit the bill


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,006 ✭✭✭Southern Dandy


    jayod30 wrote: »
    The second one your talking about, how big roughly is that? The MOSFET I'm looking for would have to be small but also I want the active break, depending in its size it might just fit the bill

    If it is for a buffer tube than am afraid not, tried and there was not a hope I could fit a lipo in which is why I went for the pico ssr in the end for my M4. I fitted the NanoAB to my ebr and a scar-h which had plenty of space.

    L-39mm * W-19.5mm * D-9mm.

    The length does not include the deans connections when installed, and the depth is thickest part on the mosfet.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 960 ✭✭✭jayod30


    If it is for a buffer tube than am afraid not, tried and there was not a hope I could fit a lipo in. I fitted mine to my ebr and a scar-h which had plenty of space.

    L-39mm * W-19.5mm * D-9mm.

    The length does not include the deans connections when installed, and the depth is thickest part on the mosfet.

    It's for VFC Scar L stock


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,006 ✭✭✭Southern Dandy


    jayod30 wrote: »
    It's for VFC Scar L stock

    That'll do pig, that'll do, it was a VFC Scar-H I put it into. Your only problem is the way VFC have the electrodes so to create that wireless look when the stock is folded.

    The brother never uses it folded nor folds it in storage so I rewired the lot and removed the electrodes.

    I also removed the fuse/fuse holder.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 960 ✭✭✭jayod30


    That'll do pig, that'll do, it was a VFC Scar-H I put it into. Your only problem is the way VFC have the electrodes so to create that wireless look when the stock is folded.

    The brother never uses it folded nor folds it in storage so I rewired the lot and removed the electrodes.

    I also removed the fuse/fuse holder.

    Exactly what I had in mind about not using it folded. Appreciate the tips:) Oink, oink!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,235 ✭✭✭goodlad


    Nice one for all the replies lads.
    Some great info there for sure.

    To start with i will go for the motor and gear change anyways.
    I will most likely go with the 13:1 SHS , for a motor i will use a shs supershooter as they also use neodymium magnets.


    @Southern Dandy, cheers for the link to that mosfet. It really is dirt cheap.
    I will suss out someone doing that trigger mod for me, ive never even opened up an aeg.

    I can suss out the new piston and spring once i have a bit of disposable money.

    Again, cheers for all the posts lads.


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