Which first shotgun

Drexl Spivey

Hi,

I am taking on Clay Pigeon Shooting.

I went to an induction and used an over/under Beretta.

It looks pretty simple to use.

My question is what type of gun to buy: over/under, pump, semi auto?

I don't intend to change every now and again so I don't think I want to go down the road of : "as a beginner you should use this, and then maybe move on to ..." but I am interested in your views.

I've seen some semi-auto that look durable and cool: benelli.

Please give me your insight.

All the best

juice1304

If it is just for clay shooting your best bet is an o/u some places don't like pumps or semi's and they can jam and with the pump it takes time and you have to think about pumping to a certain extent. Where as with the o/u you just pull the trigger and it goes bang. I have a pump myself but that is for a number of reasons which would differ to your situation. I would buy a quality gun if you don't intend changing get a beretta etc.. and don't let a dealer talk you into anything they will always tell you whatever they have in stock is the best gun for you get whichever feels the best.

duckman!!

most Clay Pigeon Shooting clubs dont allow semi-autos and pumps
because they throw shells out at other shooters so check with your local club!

if your just clay shooting a over/under is best, semi-autos and pumps ar better for duck hunting!

if your just starting out buy cheap like baikal €600 or lanber €700-€1000
or you could buy a good second hand beretta for around €800-€1100.

you dont want to spend a fortune for your first gun just incase!!!!

Drexl Spivey

juice1304 wrote: »

If it is just for clay shooting your best bet is an o/u some places don't like pumps or semi's and they can jam and with the pump it takes time and you have to think about pumping to a certain extent. Where as with the o/u you just pull the trigger and it goes bang. I have a pump myself but that is for a number of reasons which would differ to your situation. I would buy a quality gun if you don't intend changing get a beretta etc.. and don't let a dealer talk you into anything they will always tell you whatever they have in stock is the best gun for you get whichever feels the best.

Thanks!

I don't know a lot about guns yet so your advise is useful to me.

When I was at the shooting range, although I had fun and this is why I am taking it on, the shotgun felt heavy (after several shots, the clip it back on was becoming a bit of a strain). I wonder if I should do a bit more weight lifting or if other guns are a lot lighter.

I was browsing the club's site and they have guns for sell in all categories: o/u, pump and semi.

The Beretta 687 and Benelli M2 on their site were appealing to me at first sight. I wonder if the price on the site is for 1st hand or second hand (about 1150 and 2000 respectively)

I will take my time. For the moment I am waiting for my club membership card

Thanks again.

Drexl Spivey

duckman!! wrote: »

most Clay Pigeon Shooting clubs dont allow semi-autos and pumps
because they throw shells out at other shooters so check with your local club!

if your just clay shooting a over/under is best, semi-autos and pumps ar better for duck hunting!

if your just starting out buy cheap like baikal €600 or lanber €700-€1000
or you could buy a good second hand beretta for around €800-€1100.

you dont want to spend a fortune for your first gun just incase!!!!

Thanks!

My club allows all types (o/u, semi and pump). I will ask them to confirm the next time I go.

How much is a good 1st hand beretta? Money isn't an issue (well not too much) and I prefer to spend more and have a reliable and durable gun.

Also, it is true that I am interested in clay shooting, I may be interested in hunting at a later stage, would I then need to go for a semi?

Cass

Forget pump action, semi auto's, and just go for an over/under. Why play around with the idea that some ranges may or may not allow them when you know that any club will allow an O/U.

When looking at an O/U you want something either dedicated trap or more suited to your needs, a sporter. Beretta do a 686, and 682. Both are terrific shotguns, and come in a multitude of models. Prices new go from €2,200 - €3,200. For a great quality secondhand one you are looking at €1,300 - €1,900 respectively.

Game guns are usually lighter guns. For carrying all day in the field. They usually weigh around the 6.5 lb mark. A sporter is heavier. Between 7.5-8 lb. They have longer barrels, and the extra weight is help with recoil absorption. A factor when firing a lot of rounds at clays.

A trap gun is the ultimate in clay guns, but are usually €1,000 more than your average sporter, and have features not ideally suited to game hunting when you eventually go down that route. So for a beginner to the sport i would avoid it from a cost, and functionality point of view.

If buying cheap now, and upgrading is not something you want to do then buy right the first time. If clays are not to your liking it can be used for game, or worse case scenario you can sell it, and while taking a hit, still recover good money.

I am a huge fan of Beretta. Have only bought another in the last few days. However you have other choices, and if you are not limited by a low budget then you have a good amount of options open to you. Other brands include Miroku, Perazzi, Benelli, Browning. You will find they go from €1,900 - €6,000 new, and €1,200 - €3,500 second hand depending on make, model, condition.


My personal recommendations from using them are either;

• Beretta 686e Gold Sporter. 12 gauge, with 30" barrels, multi choke, also take victory choke, adjustable cheek riser, spare trigger, spare front sight. New €2,250 - €2,400. Second hand €1,250 - €1,600.
• Beretta 682e Gold Sporter. 12 gauge, 32" barrels, multi choke, Mobil extended chokes, adjustable cheek riser, spare trigger, sights. New €2,900 - €3,200. Second hand €1,550 - €1,850.

I have owned, and used both of these shotguns for clays primarily, and for game. They weight approx 7.5-8lbs, and are unrivaled (imo) for build quality, reliability, heritage, etc.

Drexl Spivey

Cass, this is awesome information. Many thanks!

Cass wrote: »

Forget pump action, semi auto's, and just go for an over/under. Why play around with the idea that some ranges may or may not allow them when you know that any club will allow an O/U.

When looking at an O/U you want something either dedicated trap or more suited to your needs, a sporter. Beretta do a 686, and 682. Both are terrific shotguns, and come in a multitude of models. Prices new go from €2,200 - €3,200. For a great quality secondhand one you are looking at €1,300 - €1,900 respectively.

Game guns are usually lighter guns. For carrying all day in the field. They usually weigh around the 6.5 lb mark. A sporter is heavier. Between 7.5-8 lb. They have longer barrels, and the extra weight is help with recoil absorption. A factor when firing a lot of rounds at clays.

A trap gun is the ultimate in clay guns, but are usually €1,000 more than your average sporter, and have features not ideally suited to game hunting when you eventually go down that route. So for a beginner to the sport i would avoid it from a cost, and functionality point of view.

If buying cheap now, and upgrading is not something you want to do then buy right the first time. If clays are not to your liking it can be used for game, or worse case scenario you can sell it, and while taking a hit, still recover good money.

I am a huge fan of Beretta. Have only bought another in the last few days. However you have other choices, and if you are not limited by a low budget then you have a good amount of options open to you. Other brands include Miroku, Perazzi, Benelli, Browning. You will find they go from €1,900 - €6,000 new, and €1,200 - €3,500 second hand depending on make, model, condition.


My personal recommendations from using them are either;

• Beretta 686e Gold Sporter. 12 gauge, with 30" barrels, multi choke, also take victory choke, adjustable cheek riser, spare trigger, spare front sight. New €2,250 - €2,400. Second hand €1,250 - €1,600.
• Beretta 682e Gold Sporter. 12 gauge, 32" barrels, multi choke, Mobil extended chokes, adjustable cheek riser, spare trigger, sights. New €2,900 - €3,200. Second hand €1,550 - €1,850.

I have owned, and used both of these shotguns for clays primarily, and for game. They weight approx 7.5-8lbs, and are unrivaled (imo) for build quality, reliability, heritage, etc.

deeksofdoom

Whatever you do, buy something that fits you.

homerhop

try a few different makes models, see what feels comfortable and right for you, we can name loads of different guns here which isnt worth a stocking of ****e to you if they dont feel comfortable.
Can someone please tell me exactly where you cannot shoot semi's as I have been hearing this for years and have never come across it.

duckman!!

Drexl Spivey wrote: »

When I was at the shooting range, although I had fun and this is why I am taking it on, the shotgun felt heavy (after several shots, the clip it back on was becoming a bit of a strain). I wonder if I should do a bit more weight lifting or if other guns are a lot lighter.
Thanks again.

My club allows all types (o/u, semi and pump). I will ask them to confirm the next time I go.

How much is a good 1st hand beretta? Money isn't an issue (well not too much) and I prefer to spend more and have a reliable and durable gun.

Also, it is true that I am interested in clay shooting, I may be interested in hunting at a later stage, would I then need to go for a semi?

well taking everything from this i would recommend a
Beretta A400!! its a semi-auto and its light.
it will fire any load from 24g up to 64g,
it wont lose to much value over the years(as long as it taken care of)
very light recoil, you could shoot all day and your shoulder wont hurt.
its one of the most reliable semi-autos out there.
it costs around €1700-€1900.

i have the A400 xtreme and its by far the best i have ever used.

and its beretta......enough said!!!

Cass

There is no list of clay ranges that do not allow semi auto's. None that i have seen or heard of anyway. I highly doubt anyone would be stupid enough to print such. As for stopping you well i shot a semi auto for clays for a while, and no one stopped me, but there was the "looks", the "mumblings", etc. evertime i stepped onto a line with one.

Once basic safety is followed they are no more "dangerous" than any other gun. Hell i even used a breach flag when it was not in the case. I prefer O/U as it allows for two different chokes. I'm by no means an expert or even close to one at clays, but having a wide first shot, and tighter second was handy for me, and suited my style of shooting. Something a semi auto or pump does not allow for.

recipio

Get an O/U - why raise the hackles of other shooters. ? Don't forget a shooting vest and keep your right leg stepped back to absorb the impact.

homerhop

Get what you feel comfortable with and like, if we worried about other shooters we would be all shooting the same make and model . The only time someone may have an issue with a semi is when shooting DTL and to be honest if they can't take a step back to avoid the ejected shell well......
It's bad enough joe public and their myths about shooting without the shooting community doing the same.
I have shot clays the length of the country and have never ever seen anyone refused entry to a comp with one. As long as you are safe and keep the slide open and barrel in a safe direction when not shooting that's all that matters, and if I am truly honest I have seen lads with u/o firearms who were far more careless over the years from walking around with guns closed across their shoulders to closed guns left lying against posts or lying on the ground.

meathstevie

Get the best quality well fitting gun you can afford. As mentioned the semi auto issue would matter most when shooting DTL but has no relevance for the likes of sporting clays where you're alone on the firing point . A fair few of the American big hitters on the sporting clays circuit use semi's in pro competitions.

I've been at a right few clay grounds and shot in a couple of NARGC sporting clays competitions and I've seen semi's being used on all occassions. One thing to keep in mind though if you would go for a semi is that some types and brands do not like light loads and may fail to eject.

Having said that if your main activity is going to be clayshooting I'd go for a decent O/U sporter. Browning, Beretta, Super Lanber, Miroku, ...the list is endless.

Drexl Spivey

wow I'm impressed by the replies. Thanks all.

I have to say, it is going to be difficult. I definitely have to try both.

I like the simplicity of the o/u:
- for safety you just open it, and unload
- for disassembling, I see 3 main parts
- I won't bother other shooters (?)


I also like the semi auto but:
- it can jam
- I am not sure how you can operate safety (point downwards to the ground?)
- it looks complicated to disassemble.
- other shooters may be bothered (I still don't understand this)
- but wow, shooting 5 shells in a row looks impressive. (but you can't do it in the clay shooting)


Since I am a noob, will it be more difficult to get licensed for one or the other?
I still have time to decide.

Cheers!

Cass

A semi auto has three main parts also, but just disassembles differently.

As for 5 shots. Anything over 3 shots requires a restricted license, which is granted by the Chief Super as opposed to the Super. This is not to say is cannot be licensed just you must show good reason as to why you need a 5 shot gun, and why a 3 shot will not suffice. If you cannot provide good reason then the application will be refused.

So bearing that in mind you will most likely be looking at a three shot, unrestricted shotgun. Also the security requirements differ lightly where a restricted firearm is owned. Because of this 1 shot difference between the semi auto, and the O/U, and the fact that as your primary use is clays i see no need for a semi auto.

Again i am not saying not to look at a semi auto. I own one myself, having owned O/U's for the last 9 years. Just making the point that for clays a O/U suits your needs better.


As the lads said above fit is a key point. In fact it is the most important. So if you find a semi auto that fits better than any other make or model then go for it. t is best to go to a dealer with someone or a dealer that will be more interested in selling you the best possible fitting gun for you, and your needs than what suits the dealer to sell.

cookimonster

I am a fan of semi autos and love my old pump action both of which I shoot clays with. The semi auto thing is a little bit of snobbery, ignorance and scare mongering (no offence intended). Many who have not shot them are unaware of the specific operation of them.Having said that I also shoot clays with an o/u and would highly recommend one for the following reasons:

Double barreled interchangeable chokes allow more versatility in different clay pigeon disciplines.

O / U guns are more compact in lenght due to design and again allow use in different disciplines.

Semi's and Pumps spit out casing all over the place and are a pain in the arse to pick up after ( most clubs opertate a take home policy on shell cases) and can slow down proceedings at a comp if you are required to do so .

If you do go for a o/u and want versatility take the previous advice offered here and go for a good multichoke sporter (imo I would pick a 28 inch) any thing lighter and you run the risk of shooting a lighter field gun loose fairly quickly. If you get into the sport you could be putting 50 -100 shells through a gun in 30 - 60 minutes. Field guns are not built for that, even on a good summers pigeon day the frequency of shoot will be far less.

Don't worry about muscle strength its all in conditioning after a good few outings you won't notice the weight.

Go slow and don't do what most of us do do and buy too quickly........