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Reasonable BER rating?

  • 27-04-2013 10:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 934 ✭✭✭


    What would be considered a good BER for older properties (90-110 years), as a rule of thumb?

    Supposing full renovation which have emphasised insulation and energy saving features, what could consumers expect from a property?


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,145 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    What would be considered a good BER for older properties (90-110 years), as a rule of thumb?

    Supposing full renovation which have emphasised insulation and energy saving features, what could consumers expect from a property?
    great question. if it was me: id try to work out the min best reno, but your tryin to get there already - actual comfort & thermal comfort along with the energy saving should rule the decisions. and the age of the house needs to be related to the specifics. give us more info please, and try not to waffle:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 934 ✭✭✭OneOfThem Stumbled


    BryanF wrote: »
    great question. if it was me: id try to work out the min best reno, but your tryin to get there already - actual comfort & thermal comfort along with the energy saving should rule the decisions. and the age of the house needs to be related to the specifics. give us more info please, and try not to waffle:)

    For a house over a hundred years old,

    With drylined internal insulated walls throughout
    Cold attic that has been well insulated
    Insulation between floors
    Independent zoned gas heating
    Condensing Gas boiler
    Predominantly double glazed windows and doors (>80%)
    Draught proofed doors.

    No additional mod cons such as solar panels, etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    I would say C3 or C2 for rule of thumb answer . Look here for a more detailed response.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 412 ✭✭MOTM


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    I would say C3 or C2 for rule of thumb answer .


    Yup, C2/C3 sounds about right, but if you really need to know, get a BER done. Your spec doesn't give enough information on U values achieved etc.

    If getting a BER, it will show lower energy usage if you've kept all details proving that the work was done (details from Architect, Engineer, receipts for work done etc).

    The spec you've give sounds almost up to the level of the Appendix C house in TGD L 2005. That would've been in or around a C1:
    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1652,en.pdf


  • Registered Users Posts: 13 kizmax


    i am due to get a ber and I would like to know should I get rid of my chandelier type lights and replace with single for the test
    And can I use draught excluder on doors and windows without penalty
    Any help would be greatly appreciated


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  • Subscribers Posts: 41,915 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    kizmax wrote: »
    i am due to get a ber and I would like to know should I get rid of my chandelier type lights and replace with single for the test
    And can I use draught excluder on doors and windows without penalty
    Any help would be greatly appreciated

    unless your on the cusp of tipping from one rating level into another, no it wouldnt be worth doing.

    draught excluders are standard for most elements bar single glazed windows.
    These dont penalise, they help


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