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Cleaning Rifle Crown?

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  • 25-05-2013 10:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭


    How do you do this?? After just a couple of shots I end up with thick black staining when the mod comes off... I currently use Hoppes #9 which works - eventually.....

    It takes so much time / pressure / circular motions that my finger is usually numb by the time it comes clean. Is there any better product / method?


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    That is carbon. Any copper cleaner will remove it, but it will be no more effective than oil. You need a carbon remover, not copper.

    Also it is a build up, and "baked" on from every shot. So going at it and trying to remove it from the get go is a mistake. It'll work, but it's labour intensive. What i prefer is to sit the rifle, barrel down, into a small container with some carbon remover in it. Let it soak in the solution for a while. Take it out, and aggitate the area a little to remove a "layer", then let it sit again. Once the chemical has done it's work you need only rub the muzzle with a cloth.

    I suffer the same issue with the .308, and the .243. The .243 is worse as the muzzle is flatter, and seems to hold the residue more. The one thing i do not do is put a brush or anything abrasive near the muzzle/crown. I'm not taking the chance that constantly cleaning will damage it.

    Also invest in a small tube of copper grease. Smear it on the threads of the rifle before attaching the mod. It's heat resistant, and makes cleaning the thread easier. When cleaning the rifle, clean off the old grease, and apply a fresh smear before each fitting of the mod.
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  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    I already do the copper grease thing which as you say, works very well.

    Can you name / recommend a carbon cleaner? I assume hoppes 9 is a copper cleaner then?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Hoppes no 9 is the name of the brand, but you need to find the name of the individual products. For example you have Hoppes #9 copper eliminator, Hoppes #9 gun oil, Hoppes #9 carbon cleaner. All called Hoppes #9, but each has a different purpose.

    I prefer KG products. KG1 is a good carbon remover, and i use it before cleaning any of my rifles. This clears out the carbon, and allows the copper cleaners to get right at the copper, and not waste time on the carbon.

    Other products are an "all in one". These are usually a stronger cleaner designed to remove carbon, copper, etc all in the one cleaning. Wipe out, Bore Shine, etc are such products. Might be a little harsh, and not suitable for leaving your rifle sitting in for a prolonged period of time.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    Ah I thought the 9 referred to their signature product, their solvent, which is the one I'm using.

    So, looks like a need a separate carbon remover too.... do you use that in the bore before the copper solvent?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    It might do, but it's a generic term. A lot of their stuff is Hoppes #9, the remainder seems to be branded as Elite. I'd be more interested in what it says it does. IOW is it marked as copper cleaner, bore gel, etc.?

    As for the carbon remover. Get it. Use it before the copper solvent. A little longer in terms of time to clean, but so much better.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    Here's a pic of the label...

    Anywhere you know stocking carbon solvent?.... this crown cleaning is becoming painful so I'd like some asap.

    And since we're on the topic, does the rimfire suffer the same way?? I cannot see as tge crown is blued.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Jim Griffin is who i get mine from. Haven't needed any in the last month or so, so check with him before traveling, etc. that he has some in stock.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 428 ✭✭EWQuinn


    http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7651/muzzlecrown.jpg

    http://www.krebscustom.com/RawPhotos/6-23-11/74brake.jpg

    I have a big problem with carbon build-up on the muzzle and inside the flash suppressor of the AK 74. Easy to soak the suppressor inside a bottle of Hoppes 9. But the biggest problem is carbon caking on the muzzle crown.

    I know it would be good for the threads. Would it be advisable to coat the muzzle crown with anti seize grease like copper grease to make it easier to clean?

    My muzzle crown is flat , not like the one in the pic which was probably recrowned and only an example. It gets really caked in carbon if you don't clean it. I have heard of the muzzle brakes having to be cut off of rifles that go 1,000s of rounds without cleaning. (Fortunately, I only use new ammo in this rifle, not the corrosive surplus.)


  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    Thanks for the info... can you tell me if the rimfire will suffer the same carbon build up? The barrel is blued so I cannot see any obvious staining.

    Is this suiatable for a carbon on a modern centerfire / mod?
    http://www.sportsden.ie/guns/gun-accessories/gun-cleaning-accessories/elite-black-powder-solvent.html

    It says it's for black powder but the description refers to carbon deposits.


  • Registered Users Posts: 348 ✭✭virminhunter


    I had the same problem and found kg-1 and most other solvents fairly ineffective, the best i've found is holts motorcycle degreaser it works really well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 428 ✭✭EWQuinn


    Anyone ever use Ed's Red "home made" formula for their bore cleaner? It's supposed to be a great and fast carbon cutter, not made for copper. Supposedly cheaper than store bought products, although at today's prices I wonder. Many shooters in the US swear by it as being more effective on carbon and shotgun wad residue.

    Also, its definitely toxic although probably no more so than many chemical solvents, and is flammable, so it comes with serious storage, labeling and confined space stipulations.


  • Registered Users Posts: 435 ✭✭leupold90


    Silvo works really well for cleaning off carbon from the crown. I've used the tin that has the saturated 'cloth' in it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    leupold90 wrote: »
    Silvo works really well for cleaning off carbon from the crown. I've used the tin that has the saturated 'cloth' in it.

    Intetesting replies. I'd have never considered using anything other than firearms specific chemicals but check out this guys' cleaning regime:
    http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/bore-cleaning-basics-2.php

    He swears by automotive brake or carburettor cleaner as a carbon remover.


  • Registered Users Posts: 435 ✭✭leupold90


    I just tried the Sivo stuff one day. I was really surprised how well it worked. Doesn't need a great degree of elbow grease or scrubbing. Just keep wiping gently with it and any carbon type deposits lift off very easily.


  • Registered Users Posts: 428 ✭✭EWQuinn


    Well, here's some validation for what I was saying about Hoppes No 9 and Copper:

    "Hoppes #9 is an effective copper remover that has two limitations. The first is that it requires oxygen. The second is time. If you wish to use Hoppes #9 to remove copper, saturate a clean patch and push it slowly through the bore.

    Allow it to sit for at least twenty four hours and patch it dry. Repeat as necessary until the patches come out clean without any green streaks. It is a very slow process. If you are in a competition, time is of importance and you cannot wait for #9 to work."

    Hoppes 9 does a decent job on the copper in my barrels, and don't have to wait the long time more than once. I think that is if you clean after shooting and don't let the copper build up over time. I'm sure the KG recommended by Cass is also effective too, although I've never tried it.

    Carb and brake cleaner are formed in various mixes of classical solvents ("enes", "anes" and "ones"). Gun Scrubber is apparently the same or very similar as the chemical used in brake cleaner. Given all this, I may just mix up a jar of Ed'd Red and see if it improves the cleaning time on carbon gunk on my AK. Ive got a can of Brasso, supposedly its more aggressive than Silvo, so may leave the Brasso under the sink and see if they sell Silvo locally, do not want anything overly aggressive on a barrel or crown.


  • Registered Users Posts: 837 ✭✭✭Robotack


    Robotack wrote: »
    Here's a pic of the label...

    Anywhere you know stocking carbon solvent?.... this crown cleaning is becoming painful so I'd like some asap.

    And since we're on the topic, does the rimfire suffer the same way?? I cannot see as the crown is blued.

    Can anyone answer my rimfire query?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,558 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Any propellant based cartirdge rifle will have the same fouling on the muzzle/crown. It's merely a matter of degree of severity.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

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  • Subscribers Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭IRLConor


    Robotack wrote: »
    Can anyone answer my rimfire query?
    Cass wrote: »
    Any propellant based cartirdge rifle will have the same fouling on the muzzle/crown. It's merely a matter of degree of severity.

    Yup, and it can be much worse if you have a sight extension tube (like I have) and I presume a mod is as bad as a tube. After even 30 or 40 shots I have a layer of carbon like this in the tube (hard to see I know):

    8m4hKZ.jpg

    I don't have a photo of the muzzle handy but it does get visibly filthy. It wipes off fairly handy if you get it early.


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