Do we need to rewire?

josieannawfd

My husband and I just bought a house built in late 1970s.

We are wondering if we should be looking into rewiring the house.

We need to do wiring anyway for new kitchen. Other than that we may need a socket or two here and there.

How old is a house normally before it is rewired?

Also any ballpark figures on how much we would be looking at?
Its a detached house, small enough, 3 bed - one tidy box room - and one bathroom.

Thanks for all advice

DublinDilbert

Take a picture of the fuse board and post it here.

It more than likely needs a new fuse board, but may also need full or partial re-wire, depending on the condition of the existing wiring.

mikehammer67

possibly not if it's late 70's

there's a lot of variables-you'd prob need a registered contractor to advise you

hufpc8w3adnk65

The earthing almost certainly needs an upgrade

joeperry

You won't really know unless the circuits are tested. i.e. insulation resistance test.

vinnycos007

In my opinion the house should be rewired as it probably doesnt reach the electrical standards such as for rcd protection, earthing and even heating control. By the time you have the extras put into your house such as extra sockets and wireing the kitchen that will cost a 1/3 of the cost of a full rewire!!!

adrian92

I think you would need to get an electrician to look at it. Needs a visual and possible test inspection. The bulk of the wiring is probably ok (impossible to say without an examination). I agree probably need an upgraded (or new distribution board - this may not be as major as it sounds- for safety reasons).

Unlikely to require a full re-wire but needs professional advice, in my opinion.

Mr.Fred

Check your house insurance policy but as far as I know they say a house should be rewired after 35 years or something along those lines.

mikehammer67

Mr.Fred wrote: »

Check your house insurance policy but as far as I know they say a house should be rewired after 35 years or something along those lines.

that's prob just a guide

i doubt there's any cutoff point enforceable

Mr.Fred

mikehammer67 wrote: »

that's prob just a guide

i doubt there's any cutoff point enforceable

not a bad guide though to be honest. I've seen some horror stories whilst rewiring houses built in the 60's-70's

2011

As other posters have said it would be best to get an electrician to carry out a full inspection to ascertain what would be required. To fully comply with the regulations it is most likely that you will require a full rewire as there have been a number of significant changes to the regulations since the 1970s. If it were my home there are some regulations that I would ensure that electrical installation complied with, mainly those that would affect the safety of the wiring. However there are breaches of regulations that I might be able to "live with".

Here are some of the more important regulations that I would ensure that my home complies with most of which would not have been a requirement in the 1970s:

1) All sockets to be protected by an RCD. This is very important!

2) Instantaneous shower (The type that heats and pumps the water such as a Mira or Triton) to be protected by a dedicated RCD & MCB combination or an RCBO. Cable to this unit should be at least 6 sq. mm twin and earth cable, perhaps larger depending on load size (over 9.5 kW from memory) and length of run from the board.

3) Earthing and bonding to fully comply with the latest regulations (ET:101 2008). This includes a 10 sq. mm earth cable to the earth rod.

4) Cooker switch and socket combined unit are not permitted, remove if installed.

5) Mains supply to board minimum size of 16 sq. mm twin and earth cable.

6) Modern distribution board with MCBs (not fuses) protecting final circuits. 63A main switch fuse. All circuits clearly labeled.

7) "Sensible" wiring in the bathroom. By this I mean IP rated equipment (such as light) suitably located within the bathroom (no sockets), nothing in a shower or bath area that should not be there.

8) All wiring must use modern PVC type insulation (no cables with natural rubber insulation) with copper conductors. All cables must be correctly sized. In general this means at least 1.5 sq. mm for lights, 2.5 sq. mm for sockets and 6 sq. mm for cookers.

9) All outdoor electrical equipment must be suitable for outdoor use i.e. IP rated (how resistant it is to ingress of water and dust).

10) Sockets on a skirting board are a no no! (The exception is ones that are specifically designed for this sometimes used in offices).


On the other hand, non compliance with the following regulations is something that I may not worry too much about or change in my own home:

1) Old PVC cables that use "the wrong colours" (generally red and black), the colours used now are brown for phase (live) and blue for neutral. I would simply sleeve the cables with the correct colour heat shrink. This could result in a significant cost saving. Obviously the cable would have to pass the various electrical tests (inc. insulation resistance and earth fault loop impedance).

2) There is a new (and in my opinion very stupid) low level for mounting distribution boards (fuse boards) as measured from finished floor level. It would not bother me if the board was installed higher than this, once the location was sensible. This is something that I could only make a call on by seeing it.

3) According to the current regulations a socket circuit should not feed more than two rooms (a hall does not count as a room). Again this would not be a concern to me once the circuit was not overloaded. I have seen RECI inspectors ignore this during inspections (then again I have seen them ignore some appalling breaches of regulations :rolleyes:). As above, this is something that I could only make a call on by seeing it.

Although it is not against regulations to use junction boxes, I am not a fan of them and would go to great lengths to remove as many as possible. The most important ones to remove are the ones that are inaccessible or very hard to get at. Murphy's law states that these are the ones that will fail :mad:



Also if your budget is tight think carefully before you blow a fortune on "energy efficient" lighting. Unless you have lots of 500W halogen sensor lights constantly on only a small portion of your electricity bill is likely to be from lighting. Although energy efficiency is important some people spend so much on energy efficient lighting that it will take them many years to break even. It may make much more sense to spend this money on insulation and/or a more efficient boiler and slowly change the lighting over time.

meercat

Great post 2011

hufpc8w3adnk65

2011 wrote: »

3) According to the current regulations a socket circuit should not feed more than two rooms (a hall does not count as a room). Again this would not be a concern to me once the circuit was not overloaded. I have seen RECI inspectors ignore this during inspections (then again I have seen them ignore some appalling breaches of regulations :rolleyes:). As above, this is something that I could only make a call on by seeing it.



.

When did this amendment come in and have you the direct link too it?In a normal 3 bed house I would allways run 3 x 2.5 upstairs anyways for 2 socket circuits and immersion but didnt realise there was now a regulation on it..

mikehammer67

MrMac84 wrote: »

When did this amendment come in and have you the direct link too it?In a normal 3 bed house I would allways run 3 x 2.5 upstairs anyways for 2 socket circuits and immersion but didnt realise there was now a regulation on it..

that regulation on radial circuits goes back donkeys years

it doesn't apply to ring ccts obviously

hufpc8w3adnk65

mikehammer67 wrote: »

that regulation on radial circuits goes back donkeys years

it doesn't apply to ring ccts obviously

Must have been asleep in FAS that day.Or else forgetten it

mikehammer67

it's in the 3rd edition as well
goes back a long way i'd say

josieannawfd

Thank you all for responses and especially moderator for such detailed a response. I have saved them to re-read them.
We will get it looked at by professional going on your advice and see if what they recommend tallies with advice here.
Many thanks again

royster999

hi there,

Would be interested to hear what you did regarding the wiring ?
In a similar situation that you describe.