Cleaning Equipment and Advice for Savage FTR

nastros

Currently just waiting on a licence to come in for my Savage FTR in 308. Its my first centerfire so I want to make sure it is well taken care of. I have a .22 and I use a sinclair bore guide and a boretech one piece rod and jag on it and the boretech rimfire solvent. But for the 308 I'm wondering is there anything different I need to be doing like what solvent would people recommend. Also is there any specific bore guide I can get for the savage. Id imagine a boretech rod and jag for 308 would work fine as well.

Cass

The bore-tech rod and jag is perfect. Just make sure the bore guide has the .308 insert or is designed for a .308. By this i mean some guides are classed as universal. Meaning they can accommodate any rod for any caliber. The insert is the plastic piece that tapers into the chamber. Make sure your one has a .308. If it's for any other caliber it will not fit snug and allow solvents and other chemicals to spill out into the chamber/action.

The FTR is a superb out of the box rifle. Capable of winning comps without any modifications. If your one is brand new i would suggest a small amount of break in. It is not really necessary as i have shot two of them, and only broke in one. Both shot just as well as each other, but personally i always like to break in a factory rifle. 40 - 50 rounds would do the job nicely. The important point in the process is the cleaning between rounds. Cleaning, and solvents will never "break in" a barrel. The firing of the rounds/bullets does that, but the cleaning presents a clean bore for the bullet to do it's work. My process is as follows;

• I usually start with 1 shot and clean. Repeat for 10 rounds.
• 2 shots and clean for 10 (5x2),
• 3 shots and clean for 15 (5x3),
• 5 shots and clean for 15 (3x5).

45 - 50 rounds is more than enough for breaking in any new rifle. Some may take more, but this does most. Again it's only a suggestion. It does not mean it needs to be done or you have to do it. I used to use more years ago, but found this works just as well.

As for cleaning. There are a multitude of products from MPro-7, KG, Bore-Tech, Hoppes, Butch's, Wipe-out, etc. You need to choose the product based on what it does, and it's effectiveness. So a carbon remover, and then copper solvent is what you need. The carbon to remove the fouling, and leave only the copper for the solvent to do it's job. There are products that do both, but i prefer to use two products, and above all take my time, and do it right. If you rush, and hurry the process it won't be right, and you may end up with a cumulative effect of the copper building up. My process is as follows:

• KG/M-Pro7 for regular barrel cleaning. (Butch's Bore shine now and then for heavy cleaning.)
• Run a KG/MPro-7 soaked patch through the barrel. This is a carbon remover to get the grime out first.
• Leave to sit for a few minutes.
• Run another wet patch with KG/M-Pro7 through the barrel to moisten the fouling, and remove the first lot of carbon..
• Run a nylon brush up and down the barrel about a half a dozen times. Clean the brush each time with a spray oil to prevent a build up of gunk on it.
• Run another KG/M-Pro7 patch down the barrel to remove fouling while treating the barrel again.
• Leave to sit for a minute or two.
• At this stage have about 15 or so oiled patches at the ready.
• Start running them down the barrel one after the other until they run clean. The patches need to remain wet to prevent dry carbon sticking to the bore.
• If they come clean before the 15 great. If not use more.
• When they run clean and wet, then start using the dry patches.
• Run as many as is needed until there is no more oil on the patches coming out.
• Now repeat steps 2-12 using the copper solvent instead of the carbon remover. You are looking for wet, and clean patches. If there is any hint of blue or green then there is still copper in the barrel.
• When you are all done use the mop and run it up and down the barrel again about a dozen times.
• On the last run leave the mop half protruded from the muzzle. Wipe around the muzzle and clean any fouling on the crown. The mop will prevent anything running back down into the barrel.
• Remove the bore guide and use a tooth brush, patches and bore brush to clean out the chamber, breach, etc.
• Wipe down the rod, brushes, jag, and bore guide.
• If the rifle is being stored away for a few weeks i roll up a soft cloth and place it into the chamber up against the breach and store barrel up.
• On the off chance that i have somehow missed some residual this will collect it.

Others may have different processes or use different chemicals. It's a personal thing, and i'd doubt there are two people with the same process. My last piece of advice, and again it's a personal opinion, do't use a brass brush. There really is not need for it. If you select the right chemicals then a jag, patches, and a mop should be all you need. If stuck have a nylon brush, and use only when needed, but i'm not a fan of brushes in general. If you do use a brush when you push it out the barrel screw off the brush, remove the rod, and attach the brush. Also clean the brush between runs down the barrel. This way you don't get a build up of fouling in the bristles that MAY damage the crown with prolonged use. Also wipe the shaft of the rod with each run the barrel.


Think that covers it all.

nastros

This is just what I was looking for appreciate the help thanks.

Cass

You getting into the target end of things?

If so the Savage is without doubt the way to go starter rifle or not. They are unbelievable. There is not another rifle out there, in the same price bracket, that can match it. Even more expensive rifles are not necessarily better than it.

In .308 with a 1:12 twist she should only like light to light/medium bullets however i found with mine, and others, that she will shoot pretty much anything you feed her, and well. I have tried 155gr up to 200gr, and she is especially good with both 155 and 190gr bullets. The only round she was not great with was the 168 Sierra Matchking. She shoot them well enough, but the drop on them was excessive, and badly effected by the wind.

A good round to look for is the Berger 155 - 155.5 rounds. For factory ammo HPS used to e the brand, but i've lost faith in it's consistency over the last year. However at €55 per 50 they are still a good, and cheap round to use. The heavier bullets such as 175 and 190 are about €65 per 50 but it still comes in at betwee €1 to €1,20 per round, and thats good shooting for a .308.

Here is a list of drops for you from 100 yards out to 1,000 yards using the HPS 155gr and 190 gr bullets. All other rounds (except 168) will be somewhere in the middle of both figures. It may differ slightly but by no more than an MOA.

Bullet gr | Avg MV | 100 | 200 | 300 | 400 | 500 | 600 | 700 | 800 | 900 | 1,000|
155 | 2,900 | 0 | 0.75 | 3.5 | 7.25 | 10.5 | 13.5 | 19.75 | 24.5 | 29 | 33.5 |


Bullet gr | Avg MV | 100 | 200 | 300 | 400 | 500 | 600 | 700 | 800 | 900 | 1,000|
190 | 2,600 | 0 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 11.75 | 15.5 | 20.25 | 25.5 | 30.25 | 35.5 |


The numbers above are MOA. As you know on a scope these may be 4 clicks or 8 clicks depending on scope so if not sure of or comfortable with MOA adjustments just multiply the numbers above by the amount of clicks per MOA marked on your scope. If your scope is in cm then you need to do a little math to work it out, but it shouldn't be a problem.

nastros

Thanks for the info the plan is to start getting in to target shooting once the license comes through.

FISMA

Was just about to post a question on breaking in my model 12...

Thanks for the info Cass.

I'll put a box or two of factory stuff through, then the match grade stuff. After I have a bit of experience, I'll give the Nosler's and Sierra's a chance.

To the OP, what glass did you put on yours?

nastros

Looking to put a night force on it once I get it.

FISMA

nastros wrote: »

Looking to put a night force on it once I get it.

Exactly what I did - 8-32x56mm. I decided against the 12-42x56mm since you're almost clicked out at 1000ya.

Is your Savage a 12? If so and you're going with NF rings and bases, I could post an image of the rings I used to give you an idea of clearance.

nastros

yep its a 12. That would be cool if you could thanks.

Cass

With a 20 MOA base (Nightforce or Near) you need a set of High (1.125") rings. This will allow for between 3-4mm of clearance off the barrel.

If you go for the medium rings (1") or low (0.885") rings you'll have a scope touching the barrel situation, and that is pointless.

If you want a NEAR rail ruger1894c was selling one. Might be a good starting point if he still has it. They are without a doubt one of the best rails out there. I kno as i had 2 of them on my rifles. All hand made and very, very precise. Meaing you actually get the 20 moa as oppose to some brands which claim 20 moa and you only get between 14-17 moa.

nastros

Thanks for the info. The rail came with the rifle so I should be good on that front thanks.

Cass

It's definitely 20 moa?

Without one you'll struggle to get past 500 or 600 yards with the rifle. The easy way to check is to see if the rail is "thicker/deeper" on one end than the other.

Nightforce rings are great but pricey. They run around €150+. However they beat other brands hands down imo. While others work well the Nightforce are truer. Never seen, had or heard of a set causing pinching or marking a scope.


Buy once and buy right.

FISMA

Nastros,
Cass must be having deja vu on this thread!

Who is the manufacturer of the rail?

I like to keep rail, rings, and scope the same. When you differ and things go wrong, the ring maker blames the mounts, the mount maker blames the scope, and the scope maker blames the rings. Repeat.

I would go all out and get the whole kit by one manufacturer.

Have you a reticle that you like?

nastros

NOt 100% on that will check this out when I actually have the rifle once the license comes in.

FISMA

Nastros,
Sent a link, sorry for the bad quality, however, from the image below you should be able to see there is plenty of clearance. I am wondering if I could have put on a pair of medium rings.

Here's the complete Kit.
Savage Model 12
NightForce 8-32x56 Precision Benchrest Illuminated Riflescope
NightForce 30mm Steel Ring Sets, Sizes NightForce 30mm High Steel Ring Set - 1.125 (Do NOT lap)
Nightforce 20MOA Rail.

Bought a few boxes of ammo to send through the barrel, then it is going to be fed a steady diet of Sierra and Nosler, new custom loads.

If you are interested in any more shots, or measurements, please advise. I can always dust off the old calipers.

nastros

I think that photo did the job thanks for that appreciate it

Cass

FISMA wrote: »

I am wondering if I could have put on a pair of medium rings.

The difference in the rings is 0.125 inch or 3.2mm per different sets. So if you go for the medium you'll drop 3.2mm, and definitely get closer to the barrel, and gain back a few MOA.

Just be careful that the front housing does not make contact with the rail. I wouldn't worry about the barrel as there is more clearance there than between the scope and rail.


The Nightforce rail sits higher than the NEAR. So i had to use the high rings to get 3-4mm clearance. However judging from your pictures, and the Nightforce rail a set of medium would work.

FISMA

Cass wrote: »

The Nightforce rail sits higher than the NEAR. So i had to use the high rings to get 3-4mm clearance. However judging from your pictures, and the Nightforce rail a set of medium would work.

I may order the medium, try them out, and sell off whichever I do not use.

Cannot wait to feed it some ammo and see what she can do.

Cass

You won't be disappointed.

From round one she'll be a tack driver.