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ok, I'm at my wits end

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  • 16-06-2013 12:12am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭


    Hey all,
    I've an 94 318I e36 with the m42 engine.
    I did start another thread before. I have replaced the mass air boot checked for any major leak, replaced spark plugs, checked the ccv by means of opening the oil fill cap. the suction seemed fine.

    the car starts, vibrates and makes a whooshing noise at idle.
    the idle is not erratic but is not stable. when accelerating it sounds like a ticking noise with little to no power.. It stutters some power and then repeats.
    I've noticed the coolant gauge is very slow to rise. sometimes the car stabilises.
    usually when eventually the gauge rises.
    there is no sign of gasket failure, spark and ht leads seem fine.

    im sorry for the poor grammar etc my keyboard broke so using virtual keyboard!
    ive been googling and trying various things. any tips or advice grately appreciated
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Can Anyone help? I dont know what the vibration could be.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭Irishcrx


    Have you checked the coils themselves? That to me sounds like a failure in one of the coils causig the engine to run rough, try starting the engine and disconnectingthe leads to the coils one by one or swapping them around.

    As for the temperature gauge, sounds like the thermostat it either faulty or stuck open, if it takes a long time to rise and then dips when in 'open road' driving you need to change the stat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭georgefalls


    Have you plugged it into a diagnostic reader yet.? That might give you a good idea as to what's going on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    i dont have access to diagnostics. There appears to be another vacuum leak as there is a hissing coming from the throttle body.
    Any decent mechanics with diagnostics around blanch/ clonee?
    Going to change stat today


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭dieselbug


    Very carefully check the intake hose between the manifold and the maf and the smaller branch to the idle control valve. These pipes crack and break. The idle control valve also gives trouble.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 791 ✭✭✭georgefalls


    congo_90 wrote: »
    i dont have access to diagnostics. There appears to be another vacuum leak as there is a hissing coming from the throttle body.
    Any decent mechanics with diagnostics around blanch/ clonee?
    Going to change stat today

    I would get it into a garage, hook up diag, and see what faults come up.
    Could save you a fortune in the long run, rather than just keep replacing bits that are probably ok.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭Irishcrx


    Diag is the best option, but if you don't want to fork out check the thing's that have been listed above, sometimes it is something simple. The hissing sound could be coming from the air intake. If you are changing the stat, take out the intake from the throttle down and very carefully look for any minor tears or breaks, even a slight one could cause a misfire and also again...the coils.

    A tear on the intake might not show up on a diag even, I had a similar problem recently and had that hissing sound it turned out to be 3 breaks in the intake line.

    As your car is a 99, you will be OBD 1 so a lot of the handheld diag gear won't be compatible you'll need a garage with the correct software.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Right update time,
    Found big ass crack in ICV line so patched that until i can get a new hose.
    Also rechecked HT leads.
    Given I electrocuted myself its safe to say they're leaking spark and not too well on cyl. 4.

    worryingly I noticed a crack where the leads connect to the coil. Could this cause problems? seems superficial.
    I managed to clean the butterfly valve as well which looked a bit black.
    Would 4litres of ready mixed coolant be adequate?
    How long until the ecu learns not to be rich?

    Tomorrow I'll replace the leads, stat and flush coolant.


    Wish me luck!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Feckin 2 of the 3 bolts holding the thermostat housing snapped their heads from corrosion :mad::mad:
    Now I'm rightly screwed as the car has all its coolant etc drained and this is my daily driver! (im off work today)

    Im desperate. Can anyone give me the use or even come and help me? I will gladly pay for your troubles. I cannot move the car as its pi$sing leaks from the housing. Unless I botch it with gasket seal however that may fail.

    Can you please help? Even suggestions as to how to remove the sheared off bolts :( FML


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Boss called, wants me in at 5! fml can anyone come to my rescue!? really in trouble now


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  • Registered Users Posts: 81,222 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Which bolts are sheared? Tbh, it's probably time to take it to a mechanic and take the wallet hit (if you think it's worth it) and let them drill them out.
    Unless some member is close to you and have bmw experience.

    pic2.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 866 ✭✭✭renofan


    Have you any other way of getting to work? You'll probably need to drill out the old nuts and re-thread the block where the nuts go into it. I'm going from memory so I think the stat is at the front so not easy to get at? It won't be a quick fix unfortunately.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    We're in luck im not needed in phew!
    my tstat housing is similar but only one pipe

    http://www.c3bmw.co.uk/StockItem.asp?categoryID=33&subcategoryID=0&productID=1453&oRef=-1&section=2&Item=unassign

    I've removed everything so have plenty of access. I also have easy outs which i borrowed but all my drill bits keep snapping or bending or not drilling!
    I cant even limp it to a garage as she wont make it to the nearest one not without losing all the coolant.

    i think im gonna have to walk back to the hardware and get decent bits. the drill im using is hired :eek:

    If anyone is around the Dunboyne area I'd appreciate any help :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Tried drilling it out. Was going carefully then adjusted drill... i drilled into the head :mad::mad: wtf can i not get a break!? After putting so much effort i've now essentially ruined my car doing what is amateur level stuff (which i am). No garage near me can help i called several. Im off to the pub :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,222 ✭✭✭✭biko


    If nothingelse is an option and both surfaces are smooth you could try liquid metal?
    For non-porous metal surfaces
    No need for rivets or screws
    Easy application
    Almost as strong as welding

    Tbh, this is a wild guess but if it works it'll create a bond so strong it can't be broken in case thermostat breaks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    the unfortunate problem now is the possibility of metal filings in the head.

    my heart actually sunk for you while reading this, nothing worse than DIY failing on you. sorry i can't help but try keep positive.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    biko wrote: »
    If nothingelse is an option and both surfaces are smooth you could try liquid metal?
    For non-porous metal surfaces
    No need for rivets or screws
    Easy application
    Almost as strong as welding

    Tbh, this is a wild guess but if it works it'll create a bond so strong it can't be broken in case thermostat breaks again.

    Will it resist steam, pressure, antifreeze, I doubt it, bombing down the motorway, that join fails, all coolant lost in seconds,:mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    biko wrote: »
    If nothingelse is an option and both surfaces are smooth you could try liquid metal?
    For non-porous metal surfaces
    No need for rivets or screws
    Easy application
    Almost as strong as welding

    Tbh, this is a wild guess but if it works it'll create a bond so strong it can't be broken in case thermostat breaks again.

    I've used this on a sump of a py 90 And it held until end of life.
    the unfortunate problem now is the possibility of metal filings in the head.

    my heart actually sunk for you while reading this, nothing worse than DIY failing on you. sorry i can't help but try keep positive.
    Metal filings were dealt with using a magnetic pick up kept dead on throughout the drilling.
    Shes now spending the weekend with a competent bmw mechanic. As a novice i believe I done well. Having done a replacement back box, ht leads, spark plugs, air body, icv hoses. she purred like a kitten, pulled like a train
    dharn wrote: »
    Will it resist steam, pressure, antifreeze, I doubt it, bombing down the motorway, that join fails, all coolant lost in seconds,:mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    So car went to the garage last Friday 21st. I went to the pub fuming as one does dreading the worst.
    Mech called me to say they managed to drill it and re tap it *phew* so no new head gasket for me!
    I was working Saturday so didn't get to her until Monday. 150euro lighter and shes driving well :)
    Gauge is intermittant which suggests bad sender but not too bothered today.

    Anyways thanks for all the suggestions and thanks to
    Protech, Summerhill Rd for fixing the car.
    Dan in Clonee motor centre for lending me drill bits :rolleyes:


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