What arrows should i be using?

maxitwist

55 lb compund bow, had carbon fibre arrows, thy eventually shattered, got aluminium now, they are even worse, bent completely out of shape the first time they hit the sand bank (There is a sand bank cliff behind the target i am shooting at)
Is there any arrows i can get that wont break when they hit it?
I'm going to miss my target sometimes..

Lardy

This should help you select the right arrows. Sounds like you're not using the correct spine for your draw weight and length.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/store/shaft_selector/

maxitwist

I think i have a soft cam and that is not an option? I do not know what point weight is?

maxitwist

and what does the size and spine figures mean? is th spine figure (ex 0.460) the thicknesof the arrow shaft in inches, and the 'size' category 2213 is the lenght of the shaft in mm?

I put in the foolowing infor to get these results:
Aluminium
/Medium cam
100
52-56
28"

Lardy

OK, you should really go to a club and do a beginners course. Using incorrect arrows is extremely dangerous, especially on a compound bow! A club would be able to assist you better as they will be able to measure your draw length and help you select the right arrows.

Personally, for your bow, I'd be using carbon arrows. And assuming you have a 28" draw length, I would be using a 500 arrow with 100gn points.

peter bermingham

And DONT let wooden arrows loose out of that bow or ya will end up in A&E. Also i would start out with a recurve bow with wooden arrows alot cheaper than them carbon ones

greysides

55 lb compund bow, had carbon fibre arrows, they eventually shattered

maxitwist wrote: »

and what does the size and spine figures mean? is the spine figure (ex 0.460) the thickness of the arrow shaft in inches, and the 'size' category 2213 is the length of the shaft in mm?

In all honesty, if you need the answers to those questions you really need to take Lardy's advice and join a club. It sounds like you are extremely lucky not to known as 'righty'.

There's a lot of pictures/video on the web of the results of 'accidents' where arrows have shattered. 55# is a lot of kick up the backside of an arrow, you really need to have the correct arrows.

SteveBabyface

Ouch

SteveBabyface

Out of curiosity the sand bank cliff you use as a backstop, how deep is the sand and are there stones/rocks in it?

If the arrows you had before were right for the bow you are using, they might have stopped too quickly or hit something hard in the sand and shattered/bent. It might be worth checking before going out and spending more money on arrows that are going to be wrecked again.

maxitwist

Yeah the problem is the sand bank, its not a soft stop, its compact so its like hitting stone more or less. However I asked about this in duffys in town and they said they would sell me polystyrene 3x5feet for €30. Thats ridiculous, I may as well buy proper hnting arrows and they wont break (so is my hope) Like these http://pse-archery.com/p/carbon-force-black-mamba-400-arrows-dozen Apparently there is a commerical showing them being fired into concrete blocks and the blocks break before the arrows do. Plus is your hunting arrows are bound to hit rocks/trees every now and then and would often be fired with more preesure then 55lbs.
So at the moment i think im better off buying these expensive arrows then trying to find a soft backdrop for my arrows to hit.

I may buy 3 carbon arrows for €12 in town in the mean time, these aluminiums are bending the very first time they miss the target, and seeing as my bow has no sight (or i dont know how to work it) that happens often! seriously though, i hate them, they were my worst purchase ever.

Lardy

Why ask for advise if you're only going to ignore it?

maxitwist

Sorry what? I didnt ask how to be safe while shooting a bow. I asked how to stop my arrows from breaking. So if your comment amounted to 'dont shoot your bow its to strong from you buy another one' yes, i ignored it because money is an issue for me like most people I am not going to buy a weaker bow when i have a perfectly capable bow here. I also have attended an archery club/beginner course and i think you are drastically over estimating the value of it.
hopefully now i dont get a ton of 'youre ungrateful' comments for going against the flow of this topic, but if I do, then i still got some value out of this topic, I had never heard of that site or those measurements before, now that i know their names I'll be able to find out what they mean im sure. So thanks for that

If you could tell me your opinion on weather the expensive arrows really would hold up to abuse, then that'd be all i want, but if you're going to spurn me for not doing things the way you want me to, so be it I guess.

Lardy

OK. Sorry, but I for one won't be offering any more advice to someone who puts more stock in money than safety. Whatever about your own safety, you could endanger others.
And no, more expensive arrows will not be any more robust if you don't know how to match them to the bow, and yourself. They will brake just as easy as the cheap ones.

SteveBabyface

Again I am assuming that you have a boss of some sort that your target face is attached to.

My suggestion would be to buy the right arrow for your bow (at the right price) and then work on not hitting the sand bank/cliff. If your target/boss is not up to stopping your arrows then you should make an investment there. If you just keep missing then I would suggest moving closer and sort your technique/targeting until you can group all your arrows.

Once you can consistently hit the target and you have your shooting technique perfected then you can think about buying more expensive arrows.

greysides

maxitwist wrote: »

I also have attended an archery club/beginner course and i think you are drastically over estimating the value of it.

Beginners courses can only teach so much in the time available. The benefit of a beginners course should be that it introduces the beginner to archery in all it's forms, teaches the basic archery technique, emphasises the safety aspects of archery and is an entry portal to a club.
Once you join the club you have access to further coaching and advice.

I had never heard of that site or those measurements before, now that i know their names I'll be able to find out what they mean im sure

I don't think you appreciate the amount you would learn, and the amount you need to learn.

If you are shooting under-spined arrows you are a danger to yourself. If you are missing the target you are in need of help. Quite simply you should not be shooting at a distance where you could miss the target. The arrows shouldn't need to be able to stand up to abuse. A compound with all it's trinkets is capable of tremendous accuracy. We all started up close. Once you can group well at a short distance you start slowly moving back.

Part of what you're missing could be inadequate equipment set up. You will need help to do that. What happens when the cable/string needs to be replaced? You will need a bow-press.

Aluminium arrows are safer than carbons. They bend and let you know they're damaged, carbon can be time bombs, looking okay but about to disintegrate. Do you know how to check arrows for damage?

Those arrows are quite light without their weight tubes, I don't think they'll take abuse on a large scale.

I may buy 3 carbon arrows for €12

Those are cheap arrows, real cheap. Most likely they are pultruded carbon arrows, made for the light poundages beginners would use- if so I can't see them being safe. More expensive arrows are manufactured differently and are safer. Not that they don't break but they are safer to you when they do.

Best advice would be to join a club for the support you need.