Alfa 159 jtdm engine trouble.

pred racer · 21-06-2013 5:55pm #1

2008 alfa 159 jtdm 8v (not mine its silver;))

Engine is chugging, ie makes a noise like a tractor (rev counter doesnt ocillate though)
No power when its cold (i mean none! Foot to the floor and very little happens)
And Will stall very easily, but when warm its ok. But the noise is nearly always there. The noise abates quite a bit when the clutch is pushed down.

Work already carried out.
Clutch and dmf recently changed.
No errors being thrown up(or none that I can read with torque)
Egr cleaned (wasnt dirty and solenoid is working fine)
Plugged out the air flow sensor...no change.
It was put on a diagnostic machine last week and the only error was something to do with a loose connection (sorry for being so vague but my car diagnostics french isnt great;) )

When he got the car, his mate (original owner) reckoned it might have an injector problem!

Its booked into alfa next week (over a week to get into an alfa garage, they must be busy :P )

All help appreciated.

Toyotafanboi · 21-06-2013 6:11pm

We had one with similar symptoms before and there was a fuel line around the back of the head perished and weeping diesel.

pred racer · 21-06-2013 6:38pm

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

We had one with similar symptoms before and there was a fuel line around the back of the head perished and weeping diesel.

That actually makes sense, according to the computer his fuel economy is pants, 7-8l/100km at motorway speeds. Ill check tomorrow. Thanks.

galwaymike · 21-06-2013 7:44pm

Sounds like it could be the swirlflap actuator (flaps stuck open will make it run crap when cold). Take off the engine cover and look at the top of the engine between the injectors and the exhaust manifold you will see a silver coloured bar probably just laying loose on the top of the engine. You can try and reattach but will more then likely will just fall off again. dependant on if the swirl flaps are jammed up with crud could mean a new inlet manifold and actuator motor (about €400 parts and 4hours labour).

pred racer · 22-06-2013 5:14pm

galwaymike wrote: »

Sounds like it could be the swirlflap actuator (flaps stuck open will make it run crap when cold). Take off the engine cover and look at the top of the engine between the injectors and the exhaust manifold you will see a silver coloured bar probably just laying loose on the top of the engine. You can try and reattach but will more then likely will just fall off again. dependant on if the swirl flaps are jammed up with crud could mean a new inlet manifold and actuator motor (about €400 parts and 4hours labour).

I had a look at this today, but this engine doesnt have swirl flaps, or at least the revue technique automobile (like a french haynes manual) says it doesnt and I cant find them if its wrong!

Cant see any diesel leaks either.

Any other ideas guys?

88manta · 22-06-2013 6:59pm

Hi,

What diagnostic system did you use?

pred racer · 22-06-2013 7:31pm

88manta wrote: »

Hi,

What diagnostic system did you use?

Just torque on my phone.

It was on a diagnostic computer last week, but he couldnt remember the code, something to do with loose connections.

galwaymike · 22-06-2013 7:42pm

Sorry just reread the post and noticed its the 8valve rather then the 16, so the reason you cant see the flaps is cos it an't got none:o. try and find someone with opcom the opel diagnostics there all the same engine (fiat, alfa, saab and opel).

georgefalls · 22-06-2013 9:21pm

The Diesel engine in the 159, while it is probably the best engine that is fitted to the car, also has its fair share of issues three of which are going to be covered here, the first of these is the perennial problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, this either sticks open or just sticks and then all the air pressure that is provided by the turbo charger is simply bled off into the exhaust system. This gives quite a distinctive driving fault which means that the power will only come in over 3000 rpm when the amount of air the turbo can compress exceeds the amount of air that can be bled out of the inlet manifold and so you get quite a power hike as you go through 3000 rpm. You do however have to be a little careful as a faulty air flow meter can also give the same symptoms on occasion although a faulty air flow meter will usually give power low down with no top end power.