Ferguson TEF 20 injector pump?

Plesicon

Hi, Can anyone please give any advice on my TEF 20, I rebuilt the entire engine a couple of years back, today I checked the engine oil, it was full to the brim with what appears to be oil and diesel. I checked the fuel pump and all is fine. Is this a sign that the injector pump is leaking fuel into the engine, if so is it possible to fix without swapping for an exchange unit as they are very expensive.

Any advice much appreciated, Thanks Mick

Thelostcountry

Does it smell like diesel? Maybe turn off the fuel Tap on tank,when not in use.

Plesicon

It only smells faintly of diesel, but the oil is very thin, but still nice and black, I also thought it could be water contamination, but that usually makes the oil cloudy.

Thelostcountry

Have you a tap on the fuel tank?? the 35's have! I am not sure about 20's I would think so.


Replace the engine oil.

TrailerBob

I cant see how diesel would get into the engine oil unless you have a serious leakage problem from the injectors down past the piston rings. I have rebuilt a couple of these engines. The diesel pump cannot leak into the block.

Does the tractor run? If so, how hard is it to start - would indicate if you have compression or injector issues.

Did it get a full rebuild i.e. piston rings, valves & seats, injector refurb etc?

If the injectors need work, its about €70 per injector. If its a compression problem, then its head off.. new head gasket and a set of piston rings. Its a straight forward job, but takes a bit of time. It may be worth checking the valves too.

If its just a working tractor, and runs ok, then disregard the above and just change the oil..

Plesicon

I rubiult entire engine a couple of years back, new pistons, rings, liners, valves, and reground them. It starts well and runs fine, but with no oil pressure recently, thats when I checked the oil with dip stick and it was full as you can get it, about 1" below to dip stick hole. I drained the oil its very thin and smells of diesel. I was under the impression that if the pump was going it would leak down past the pistons and into the cam chamber, then out through the cam drive end into the timing cover etc.

Attie

Plesicon
The seal on the hand pump has a tendency to go, on these hand pumps which lets the diesel get into the sump I have highlighted in black and red this seal very easy to replace.
The seal highlighted in black and white can be a problem to get to re seal again after opening just make sure it looks nice and round with no marking on the seal watch when tightening very easy to ring.
Hope this helps Attie.

Plesicon

Attie,
Its fit a new fuel pump along with rebuild, I have also stripped the pump and checked the diaphram, its fine. Today I refilled the engine oil, and ran it with the cover open on the injector pump to see if any diesel came down from the injector pistons - it didn't. So I am confused to haw that much diesel got into the engine oil. I will run it over next week or so and keep my eye on the engine oil level for going up. I will also turn off the fuel tap when not in use just to ensure nothing is trickling through.

Thanks Mick

Thelostcountry

Plesicon wrote: »

I will also turn off the fuel tap when not in use just to ensure nothing is trickling through.

Well it will not cost You anything ,to try My suggesstion.

Attie

Plesicon wrote: »

Attie,
Its fit a new fuel pump along with rebuild, I have also stripped the pump and checked the diaphram, its fine. Today I refilled the engine oil, and ran it with the cover open on the injector pump to see if any diesel came down from the injector pistons - it didn't. So I am confused to haw that much diesel got into the engine oil. I will run it over next week or so and keep my eye on the engine oil level for going up. I will also turn off the fuel tap when not in use just to ensure nothing is trickling through.

Thanks Mick

Well Mick
Did you get to the bottom of your diesel/oil problem ???.
Attie

ramboraf

hey just a thought,try the Ki-Gas pump unit fitted on the dash ,it could be draining its tank into the inlet manifold if the seal is a bit knackered or its not turned off properly.some people say put paraffin in it but the handbook says same as in main tank which would be diesel.

Plesicon

Hi, Thanks for the idea, but mine has the Kigas removed, starts ok without. I use a little WD 40 injected into the manifold if its a really cold day, works fine.

Thanks Mick

candlemouse

Hi team,
As a hobby I'm in the process of restoring a TEF 20 from the 1950's.

It has no identifying information, was bought as seen for cash, no number plates, no chassis number (on this make/model this was to be found on a name place which is no longer there) and as a result its not possible to determine the year of manufacture.

The ONLY clue to the year of manufacture is the year 1953 stamped on the engine which I'm assuming is the year the engine was manufactured. I've since discovered that newly built engines were normally installed on new tractors within about 6 months of manufacture.

What do I need to do to get a Vehicle Registration cert so I can apply for motor tax ?

I've contacted MotorTax.ie who directed me to the VRT section in NCT who so far have said I'll need at least a chasis number. Any suggestions ?

Thomas

TrailerBob

Without the reg or serial number, you'll be in a spot of bother for registering it. The engine number would have been listed on the original brown tax book, but these were not digitised, so even if it is the original engine, it's unlikely to be on record
You will get date of manufacture stamped on the back end. If you look on the right hand side, just above the individual brake pedal lever, you'll see some numbers in the format dd/m/y and a 1,2 or 3 after it.
For example, mine says 27 4 4 3, which is 27th of April 1954. The last digit is the shift number from the factory.

There are those that will suggest buying a tax book from someone.. But that's between you and your conscience.
Happy hunting

101sean

There was a recent thread on this subject which ended in a warning about discussing identity fraud, lets not go there.

Hopefully you'll get somewhere by following some of the wiser advice on here.

TrailerBob

You're very right Sean, it's a scourge on the vintage scene tbh. There's no way around it without the numbers. Though it only needs to be taxed if using it on the road. Insurance would be the bigger problem

candlemouse

Thanks Trailer Bob. Numbers on my read 9 9 3 2 or 9th of 9th '13. Will try to get back here to let ye know details of legal way of registering!

@101sean, would you be able to sen me a link to the other recent thread you refer to ?

TrailerBob

Yeah, that's September 1953. It's original serial number would have been something like TEF2xxxxx.... But unfortunately that won't help with registration.

Charlie r

Well hows things, bought a 1956 TEF20 there recently. There was a bit of work done with it but the engine wasnt touched.
There is a good bit of oil coming out of the exhaust manifold and its smoky to.
I'm guessing it need new rings but I wont know till I open it .
I'm thinking of putting in new pistons,rings and the whole lot while I have it open. I'm going to have a go at it myself as I would be good with me hands but dont really know the inside and out of mechanics. I have a mechanic that will help me though
Anyway have you any advice on rebuilding the engine thanks

TrailerBob

Congrats on your purchase and the joy of old tractors! The TEF is a pig to work on compared to other engines. I've done a few, It's an engine off and onto the bench job. The con rods don't come up through the bores like nearly every other engine. You need to remove the crankshaft and take them out from below.

The fact it runs now is good..

Things to look out for as you strip it down:

When the rocker cover is off, is there oil? If not then rusty or siezed rockers can exist.

Look at everything for hairline cracks

Before taking the diesel pump off, make a mark on the edge of it and the engine casing where they join, it will help with fuel timing later.

Bag and label everything if you are not familiar with the engine, there's a good few nuts bolts and washers

Note the orientation of the con rods (stamped numbers on one side as you look up from the sump) and make sure the 2 sides stay with each other.

Buy a full gasket set, top and bottom, you won't be able to reuse any of them.

Consider getting the pump looked at.. it's about €300 for a full rebuild, and not really a home job

When you do get to reassembly, make sure the pipe from the top of the diesel pump to the air intake manifold goes on and is tight.. it's a vacuum governor pipe and starting without it the engine will roar and can runaway.. ask me how I know....


Try get hold of the engine manual.. I think I gave it on PDF if you're stuck.