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Today I did some detailing...
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The lance is your problem there!! Those ones simply arent up to the job of producing thick foam. The proper lances have a gauze in them which the water and snow foam ssolution is forced through that produces the nice snow!
Process is as per the How to Guide I sent you.
Wash
Rinse
De-Tar
Rinse
De-Ironise
Rinse
Clay
Rinse / Wash if the car has dried
Polish
Protect
Jaysus, I forgot all about that guide! And I even have it printed out!
Must take a fresh look at it now that I have products that I can associate with different parts of it. Might make it easier to understand (I'm sure i'll still have 400 questions though!)0 -
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Yeah, keep the questions coming!!
Stick them up here so everyone learns and you might also get a quicker response from the other experienced lads!
See this is what i love about this thread, chances are if someone asks a question, chances are others are thinking the same thing, like I'm learning enough off KKV just by him asking stuff!0 -
Love this section, it's a great resource.
Can't stop spending money though :P
Spent like 250 quid on car stuff on my 2 days off
Rear gelcoat covered diffuser
Tigerseal to stick said diffuser
Fancy 15 quid detailing gloves
Some of that clay you can use with water
Dodo juice clay lube (snigger)
Collinite 476 wax
Massive drying towel
Fancy wheel/exhaust brush (always wanted one)
Good thing im working this week or i'd have myself bankrupt
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Supergurrier wrote: »Love this section, it's a great resource.
Can't stop spending money though :P
Spent like 250 quid on car stuff on my 2 days off
Rear gelcoat covered diffuser
Tigerseal to stick said diffuser
Fancy 15 quid detailing gloves
Some of that clay you can use with water
Dodo juice clay lube (snigger)
Collinite 476 wax
Massive drying towel
Fancy wheel/exhaust brush (always wanted one)
Good thing im working this week or i'd have myself bankrupt
What are fancy detailing gloves like? and do I need them?
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What are fancy detailing gloves like? and do I need them?
http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1207259
Not really detailing gloves but feck it my hands get cold !
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The owner of this car was worried about failing the NCT due to faded headlight lenses, also he complained of low light output.
How- DAS6
- Spot polishing pad and backing plate
- Maxolen PM1
- Meguaires #205
- Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic
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toastedpickles wrote: »I'm learning enough off KKV just by him asking stuff!
... I'll try to take that as a compliment...
Right.. So using my knowledge (or what little of it there is), and using the products I purchased (which I'd strongly recommend as a 'starter pack' of sorts for anyone else in my situation (I'd describe myself as a mentally deficient enthusiast...).
Considering the products I've got, would I be right in saying that the below is the 'correct' order to use them (and after, in brackets, is the method used to apply?)
(This is what I was aiming to do for tomorrow). Now, I am still learning, and so im sure a lot of this is ass backwards, but this is how I've worked it out in my head so far...)
1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher)
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
4. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
5. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
6. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
7. Quick rinse (power washer)
8. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary)
9. Quick rinse (power washer)
10. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a seperator pad (or back of current pad) to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
11. Quick rinse (power washer)
12. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
13. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery)
15. Quick rinse (power washer)
16. Dry car using array of clean microfibre cloths to wipe dry.
17. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.
(there's less steps involved in giving up heroine!)0 -
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JAMES VTI S wrote: »The owner of this car was worried about failing the NCT due to faded headlight lenses, also he complained of low light output.
How- DAS6
- Spot polishing pad and backing plate
- Maxolen PM1
- Meguaires #205
- Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic
Does that work (and even if it does work, does it make any practical difference) to the rear lights? Presumably same can be applied to fog lights?
Have any of ye guys ever heard of Autosol? Apparently it's the bees knees for your exhaust?
Would I be right in saying the exhause on my car should be silver/chrome looking (and no exhaust comes black as standard?!).
I'm hoping that if i used it on my Rav4 i'd get a nice shiny exhaust, but also wondering if it'd work on my nudge bar (which is never really as clean as i'd like it to be. It always has 'water marks' or something on it. Bit annoying. At the same time, don't want to clean it with Autosol if it'll make it worse.
Used an alloy cleaner on it before and it started going a weird orangey colour. Took a lot of elbow grease to get that off! 0 -
toastedpickles wrote: »In fairness though I'm no professional at it either there's things you've asked that even i wasn't sure of myself like, I haven't broken into all this fancy detailling stuff, i just use good ol autoglym stuff, cos i can't afford anything else :pac:
Ah I wasn't really insulted by your comment, I was just joking
To be honest with you, as is probably obvious by now, I'm in way over my head. I spent a few Euro on products that came recommended by Curran. And I'm delighted to have them, and I love having a clean car.
But at the same time, I haven't a feckin' clue what I'm doing.
When I'm cleani.. ahem... Detailing ( ) my car, this video pretty accurately sums me up, for both how i look when cleaning, and what's going on in my head:
I reckon if I can get another bit of help off the users here who know what they're doing, over the next 2-3 days I'll have done a full in-depth wash of the car, come across all my issues along the way, and be able to address them.
At which point I'd hope that I can continue on my own, and only pester people here when i need advice regarding a new product or technique (and, hopefully over time, as my experience grows, although I'll never be anywhere near as intelligent as some people here, I'd hopefully be able to help out other beginners down the line, as I have been helped out by members of this forum so far).
If you want to try out any of the products I've bought, by the way, just let me know. I've a free day on Thursday, so I'd be happy to meet up with you and you can sample some of the stuff I bought.
I seen Curran talking about a 'workshop' of sorts in the new year, in another thread. That's something I'd be interested in, so hopefully that goes ahead.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »... I'll try to take that as a compliment...
Right.. So using my knowledge (or what little of it there is), and using the products I purchased (which I'd strongly recommend as a 'starter pack' of sorts for anyone else in my situation (I'd describe myself as a mentally deficient enthusiast...).
Considering the products I've got, would I be right in saying that the below is the 'correct' order to use them (and after, in brackets, is the method used to apply?)
(This is what I was aiming to do for tomorrow). Now, I am still learning, and so im sure a lot of this is ass backwards, but this is how I've worked it out in my head so far...)
1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher)
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
4. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
5. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
6. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
7. Quick rinse (power washer)
8. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary)
9. Quick rinse (power washer)
10. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a seperator pad (or back of current pad) to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
11. Quick rinse (power washer)
12. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
13. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery)
15. Quick rinse (power washer)
16. Dry car using array of clean microfibre cloths to wipe dry.
17. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.
(there's less steps involved in giving up heroine!)
No need for any more rinses after polishing. The car should be dried before polishing and the polish should be removed with a mf towel not an applicator. Personally I do the wheels before washing the car (after snow foam) I wouldn't do it after waxing etc as the car will get wet again and the wheel cleaner could strip the wax off. I haven't used wheel cleanse but any wheel cleaner that I have used needs to be agitated with a brush on the wheel to get it clean. Don't forget to Iron cleanse your wheels too once you've washed them.Deleted User wrote: »Does that work (and even if it does work, does it make any practical difference) to the rear lights? Presumably same can be applied to fog lights?
Have any of ye guys ever heard of Autosol? Apparently it's the bees knees for your exhaust?
Would I be right in saying the exhause on my car should be silver/chrome looking (and no exhaust comes black as standard?!).
I'm hoping that if i used it on my Rav4 i'd get a nice shiny exhaust, but also wondering if it'd work on my nudge bar (which is never really as clean as i'd like it to be. It always has 'water marks' or something on it. Bit annoying. At the same time, don't want to clean it with Autosol if it'll make it worse.
Used an alloy cleaner on it before and it started going a weird orangey colour. Took a lot of elbow grease to get that off!
Some exhausts are just plain steel with no shiny coatings. These will never gleam no matter how hard you try.0 -
No need for any more rinses after polishing. The car should be dried before polishing and the polish should be removed with a mf towel not an applicator. Personally I do the wheels before washing the car (after snow foam) I wouldn't do it after waxing etc as the car will get wet again and the wheel cleaner could strip the wax off. I haven't used wheel cleanse but any wheel cleaner that I have used needs to be agitated with a brush on the wheel to get it clean. Don't forget to Iron cleanse your wheels too once you've washed them.
Very helpful, thank you!
Yeah, doing the wheels early on might make more sense, alright. Iron cleanse on the wheels, too. Check. Iron cleanse is meant for the car itself, though, too, right!? (ie; it's not a wheels-only product)?Some exhausts are just plain steel with no shiny coatings. These will never gleam no matter how hard you try.
I'd assume the Rav4 would fall into the category of non-shiny (as it's not exactly a sports car, so I doubt they went to the bother or effort with it). This is the only photo i really have of it, presumably it still should be a lot cleaner?
Do you (or indeed anyone) know if the Tar cleanse will by any chance work on my Rav's sidebars? (which are heavily soiled in little black dots). Would love to get them looking shiny and clean again (if they ever wear in the first place).0 -
Just a few slight adjustments to be made, to an otherwise fairly spot on routine!Deleted User wrote: »1. Quick rinse (Powerwasher) Would only do the wheels and arches
2. Watered-down-milk foam (until i get the proper lance) (apply with Powerwasher)
3. Wheel Cleanse (spray on, let sit, wash off) May need agitation - good idea to clean the tyres now too
4. Chemical Guys Glossworkz is a shampoo, so wash using 2BM with that in one bucket, fresh water in separate bucket (apply by hand with microfibre wash mitt)
5. Tar Cleanse ("de-tar") (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
6. Quick rinse (powerwasher)
7. Iron Cleanse (spray on, powerhose off after letting sit for a few minutes)
8. Quick rinse (power washer)
9. Claybar (tear off required amount, flatten to thick pancake shape and wipe over body of car until smooth, kneading as necessary) Make sure to use lube, a wee drop of the shampoo and water mixture will be fine, in a spray bottle
10. Quick rinse (power washer) You may need to wash the car, as the water will have dried out where you started and dirt will need to be washed off
11. Dry the car
12. Chemical Guys Pro Polish 3n (Apply by squirting a small amount onto applicator pad, rub into paintwork until dry, use a Microfiber cloth to 'buff' in. Repeat until whole car is done or arm falls off, whichever comes first)
13. Pete's 53 wax (same application as polish in step 10)
14. Tyre dressing (ensuring tyres are dry first, bottle says use an applicator pad, presumably i'm better off using a brush, though? Looks like the same kinda thing my mechanic had before..watery) The Glitz can be applied with an old applicator or microfiber, or a brush if you pour a small bit into a container that you can get a brush at, but that usually wastes lots of product
15. Clean the glass
16. Admire from distance. Hold back the tears.Deleted User wrote: »Yeah, doing the wheels early on might make more sense, alright. Iron cleanse on the wheels, too. Check. Iron cleanse is meant for the car itself, though, too, right!? (ie; it's not a wheels-only product)?
Yeah, Iron Cleanse can be used on the paintwork with out risk. It can be used on the wheels and would be more often as the iron deposits build up a lot quicker on the wheels. Iron Cleanse can go pretty much everywhere, but no need to use on glass as there's no advantage.Deleted User wrote: »I'd assume the Rav4 would fall into the category of non-shiny (as it's not exactly a sports car, so I doubt they went to the bother or effort with it). This is the only photo i really have of it, presumably it still should be a lot cleaner?
Thats definitely no supposed to be a shiney chrome effect finish. A bit of metal polish and wire wool will bring it back to a decent finish....almost like a brushed metal finish
Yeah, will be fine. When doing the paint work, dont be afraid to use it and Iron Cleanse on any of the finishes. All helps with the decontamination of the surfaces. You could even clay them if you wanted. Then to get the chrome bits nice and shiney you could used the Pro Polish 3n and a microfiber to bring them up a bit....do not use the wire wool on those finishes. No harm to stick a bit of wax on them then to help keep them protected and less likely / easier to clean off the water spots!Deleted User wrote: »Do you (or indeed anyone) know if the Tar cleanse will by any chance work on my Rav's sidebars? (which are heavily soiled in little black dots). Would love to get them looking shiny and clean again (if they ever wear in the first place).0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »Kerbing
Been there since before I owned it and it annoys me but I can't afford to get them refurbed yet nor do I have another set to put on while they're being done but it's on the list.
I could argue that you have been curbing your arges to sort them.
Dyselxia for ya.
Would you consider giving them a go yourself? I guess it's a bit different that working on Japscrap.
Decent finish here.
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I could argue that you have been curbing your arges to sort them.
Dyselxia for ya.
Would you consider giving them a go yourself? I guess it's a bit different that working on Japscrap.
I wouldn't call it dyslexia, it's often referred to as curbing but it's wrong.
I've refurbed alloys enough times to know that it's an absolute and utter pain in the h0le. Also, it's very hard to get a good, smooth OE finish on them and I just couldn't be arsed. If I'm going to do them at all, it'll be whole hog.0 -
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There is palace in Tallaght that does them for €80 a wheel (or at least they did about 2 years ago) I've seen 3 sets of wheels done by them and they were all flawless. I think they're called Tallaght powder coating...
I may hit them up, my wheels are a state along with half the car :pac: 0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »The main factors for me in getting the wheels done are: 1) money, 2) a replacement set as I need my car every day and 3) location. WheelDoctor is in Tipperary Town which is about half an hour from me so I'll be bringing them there. Not a ope I'd go all the way to Dublin with them as it's just extra expense.
Sweet post number you have there! :cool:
Do have a friend that could lend you a car when it's been done?:P
Just letting you know of a place that I have experience of being good 0 -
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How much is the exo. I'm using a wax that was in tescos during the summer. Makes a big difference when touching the car. Feels very smooth
It's expensive enough (€55 for 30ml on cleancar.ie) and you kind of need to know what you're doing when you use it. I've used it on a few cars since I did my own car for the first time during the summer.
It takes a bit of getting used to when it comes to how much to apply to the applicator, how to apply it to the car and the way a few small drops go a long way. The one I used is EXO v2 but with v1 the ambient temp and the car's panel temp had to be above 6 degrees in order for it to bond and cure properly. I don't think it's the same for v2 but I still use this guideline. After application, the treated surfaces can't come into contact with water for 3 hours after application.
Also it's better to apply it to a car that has just had a paint correction as it will bond better and only then will it be really able to increase the gloss.Sweet post number you have there! :cool:
Do have a friend that could lend you a car when it's been done?:P
Just letting you know of a place that I have experience of being good
I know and I appreciate that. Don't have anyone who could give me a loan of a car but if anything, I'd prefer a set of wheels instead.0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »Like I told you before, I don't do stone chip repair!!
I forget a lot of things people tell me
I tried to do it myself but it didn't go well… All or the paint I put in the chips just fell out when it dried
I'll try again! 0 -
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Well today was my big detailing day with the Rav4. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.
Long and short of it was that I went to bed last night with an alarm set for 9am and every intention to be polishing til my arms bleed until 4:30pm (I do it outside, and so can't continue on after sunset, unfortunately, due to lack of light).
So I rolled out of bed at midday and half-consciously fell into the Rav before going to get some more supplies i wanted in halfords and homebase (some steel wool and autosol for the exhaust, a brush for the tyre gloss, etc.).
It was 2pm before a drop of water hit the Rav and I got as far as Iron Cleansing before having to call it a day and wrap it up. Thankfully, I've another free-ish day tomorrow, so i can continue on from where I left off after a quick wash.
Today I discovered that gloves are a worthy investment when it comes to cold weather and cold water. Who'd have thunk it! :rolleyes:
I figured that by slapping a load more of the Snowfoam solution into the Nilfisk bottle attachment, it might become more 'snowy'. And to an extent it did work. I had a near 50/50 mix, and it was much better than watered down milk from the previous day, in that it did sit on the car, but it was still far too runny. It looked like someone had gotten sick on the car, almost. At this rate I'll have no snowfoam solution left by the time I get the lance, I'm using that much of it with the crappy detergent bottle. A false economy if ever there was one.
That said, I must admit, and it could well be just the placebo effect, but when rinsing the snowfoam off the car, even though it's watered down to sh*te when I use it, it still leaves a lovely glossy wet shine when it comes off. It's quite good. i look forward to seeing what it'll be like when done properly like in some of the Youtube videos I've been watching.
Moving on from there, the shampoo recommended by Curran is quite good. Compared to the Tesco wash and wax, i find, whilst it doesn't necessarily give a notably better finish (it is better, but probably not enough to sing it's praises), it does get a very comparable finish using only a fraction of the amount of Tesco stuff.
By that what I mean is, a dribble of Chemical Guys Glozzworx seems to work as well as nearly a cup-full of Tesco's stuff. Ultimately, when it comes time to renew my shampoo, I'll buy Glossworx off DetailingShed.com again, instead of using Tesco, as I find that, although paying more up-front, it's still significantly better value for money in the long run (in my opinion, anyway).
I used the tar cleanse today, too. I pretty much used half a bottle of it by spraying it over the entire car as if i were washing it with it ('better safe than sorry', I thought, figuring that my car probably never seen a tar cleanse before, and I wanted to over-do everything the first time around to make sure it was all up to scratch for future cleans).
I was initially disappointed. I sprayed it all over the car and let it sit, then cleaned it off and noticed minor differences. Figured I'm using it wrong and then remembered I didn't use it on the wheels or sidebars. Sprayed it on the wheels and sidebars and let it sit.
It's worth mentioning now, that my car is black, and therefore the tar remover did probably work a lot but it's work was probably hidden by the blackness of the car itself. I grabbed my hose (wahey) and started spraying it off the wheels. Some of those little annoying black dots started to disappear. 'Hey, maybe this does work'.
Then I got to the sidebars and my jaw nearly had to be picked up off the floor. To think that, only a couple of weeks ago, I was looking at sidebars for a couple of hundred euro to get them fitted because these ones were so badly 'damaged'. All those black specs of dirt that I couldn't get off for the life of me when cleaning (and believe me, I scrubbed the sidebars on this yoke every time i cleaned it!).
A quick rinse of the side bars after the tar cleanse and my side bars looked absolutely fantastic. They were like brand new bars (well, slight exaggeration). I went again, for round 2 on them, and got rid of more tar deposits. Tomorrow I'm going to go in for round 3 and try to clean them altogether (the amount of times I have to do this might help give an indication with regards to just how bad the tar had gotten to the sidebars!).
I was shocked. TarCleanse has now become, not only the product that inadvertently paid for my entire DetailingShed order two or three times over (new bars were working out ~€400-€500), it's also quickly become my single favourite product. The tar just melted away with it. Cant wait for rounds 3 and 4 tomorrow to try and get them looking new again!
Highly recommend it. It's an amazing product!
After this, i moved on to the Ironcleanse which didn't really do a whole lot that I could see. I didn't use this on the car itself (don't ask me why, but for some reason i opted against it.. maybe I should have?!) I only put it on the wheels. Wheels looked a tad cleaner after it, but can't put my finger on what it did exactly. Maybe if i knew what it was supposed to do i'd have an easier time appreciating it, but as it stands, much as Im sure its a good product, it wouldn't be in my shopping cart again when i make my next order.
After that, I called it a day and started pulling my hose in. Sun was setting and although my car was gleaming, I wasn't entirely happy that I didn't get a chance to polish or wax it (or claybar, but i dont really know if im looking forward to claying it or not, to be honest).
So Tomorrow I promised myself I'd get out of bed early, and give myself a good bit of time in which to give the car a quick wash, and then TarCleanse the sidebars and wheels a couple more times (more attention being paid to the side bars than wheels, but the wheels would still benefit with another clean with it).
Oh, I also used Autosol and some steel wool on the exhaust. I figured this would be the most annoying and 'elbow grease'-inducing part of the clean, but surprisingly enough the autosol is an amazing product also. The dirt on the exhaust just melted away. Took about 2 minutes, but then my steel wool was filthy so i was going around in circles. Another part of the clean that'll get a round 2 tomorrow. Highly recommend autosol and some steel wool for your exhausts. The Rav exhaust isn't shiny (as expected) but still looks a lot better than the charred-black look it had before I started.
Autosol packaging says don't use on anything with a 'mirror finish'. I'm not sure if thats what the nudge bar is, but I tried it on it anyway. Used a decent amount of product, but ultimately it didn't really do anything. Nudge bar didn't really benefit at all from Autosol.
Unfortunately, it got dark fast and I barely got started, so I've no photos to share. I will have tomorrow though. Photos of my fingers bleeding. 0 -
Supergurrier wrote: »A big aul lump
I vote we all show up at MM's house and demand a gtechniq application day !
I really hope you don't think it's that easy :eek:0 -
MetzgerMeister wrote: »I really hope you don't think it's that easy :eek:
No I mean a day explaining the application I know multiple cars wouldn't get done
Does seem like an amazing product though.0 -
Supergurrier wrote: »No I mean a day explaining the application I know multiple cars wouldn't get done
Does seem like an amazing product though.
If we had a car that was fully corrected, detarred, clayed, deironized and only needed a quick wash I'm sure we could sort something out but I'm never going to hold something like that at my house.0 -
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MetzgerMeister wrote: »If we had a car that was fully corrected, detarred, clayed, deironized and only needed a quick wash I'm sure we could sort something out but I'm never going to hold something like that at my house.
I'll let you do my MX5 and I'll let you used my house. 0 -
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Supergurrier wrote: »Lol I was joking about that part. Maybe if Curran does a detailing day you can show us how its done on a bonnet or something.
Seeing as you'd be at the detailing day, do you think he'd be able to show you how to use it!!
Thing is; with a coating such as gtechiq, is that the car has to be FULLY prep'd. And thats including correction work. if there was defects in the paint and this is applied and they were noticed after, the only way to remove the coating is machine polishing and thats before getting down to the level of the paint to correct it. Its not a product that you lash on and if you arent happy with, that you strip back with APC or a quick clay.
Certain products with excellent durability also need to be applied in a controlled environment. ..they dont bond well on cool or moisture...some, to reach their potential and following the application instructions, have be applied in a toasty 20 degress for 12 hours to bond....if not theres a good chance the coating wont last the recommended duration.0 -
Deleted User wrote: »After this, i moved on to the Ironcleanse which didn't really do a whole lot that I could see. I didn't use this on the car itself (don't ask me why, but for some reason i opted against it.. maybe I should have?!) I only put it on the wheels. Wheels looked a tad cleaner after it, but can't put my finger on what it did exactly. Maybe if i knew what it was supposed to do i'd have an easier time appreciating it, but as it stands, much as Im sure its a good product, it wouldn't be in my shopping cart again when i make my next order.
You've made a good start.
To be honest, Im surprised that you weren't impressed by Iron Cleanse - its one of the most impressive products Ive used. I wonder are you leaving it on long enough for it to do its work. Should be leaving it 5 mins plus, provided its not in direct sun light, as in during the summer. It should start to change colour with it comes in contact with contamination. Iron Cleanse is far more like a gel, than any other fallout remover, which means that it doesnt bleed as quickly as others, but this means its sitting in place doing its thing, before gravity takes over and makes it run.
This might give you a better idea....
As the Rav is black, you'll run into the same kind of problem when using it on the paint work...as it will be difficult to see it reacting. One sure way to demonstrate how well it work is....wash a panel on the car, say the bonnet, then apply Iron Cleanse to one half of the panel. Rinse it down after 5-7 mins. Then take a piece of clay, and clay one of the sections, and then the other. On the area that hasnt been decontaminated with Iron Cleanse, you should notice that its not as easy to clay. The surface will feel far more gritty, and you might even be able to hear a light scratching sound....that will be the iron in the paint getting pulled out by the clay bar...this in turn is very microscopically scratching your paint work, not enough to do major damage, a light polish would remove it, but I'm a believer in prevention is better than cure...and if you are not doing any polishing afterwards, perhaps preparing the paintwork for a fresh application of wax or sealant, then I'd strongly advice it.
If you know someone with a silver or white car, and better if it has performance brakes, try a small bit on the back of their car. You'll see the bleeding and the exact spots where the iron is bonded. This is an example of how it might look if you got a car with very high mileage that never had it done, or if someone was driving their car when their pads were fully worn!
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