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Tomato newbie

  • 02-07-2013 1:54pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭


    Here's a pic of my tomato plants. I have the two on the bottom left tied up(read somewhere that you're supposed to do this) the rest are left to their own devices. My questions, should I tie them all up? And should I be pruning and if so what should I prune?
    Thanks in advance:)
    null-1284.jpg


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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Hi - staking and pruning will depend on what type of tomato plant they are. The label should tell you.
    Cordon types which are grown upwards are usually tied into a tall cane or else up a string. They are grown as a tall vine and usually end up 5 - 8 feet tall. The side shoots should be removed. These are the shoots that grow in the axis of a leafy branch and the main stem.
    Bush types dont need to be staked in the same way as cordons. But often a stake of some sort is recommended to stop them flopping sideways. As the name suggests, these are bushy and wide plants as opposed to tall slender cordon plants. Do not pinch out the shoots on bush types. Just let them get on with it and fruit will form on those sideshoots.
    Hope that helps. In fairness it's just a quick run down.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Thanks Redser. They're all cherry tomatoes(i think?)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Cherries would tend to be bush types. But not always. Do you have the names?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Don't seem to have kept the packets or any record in my GIY diary.
    Bugger!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Ah not to worry. If they are cherries then they are more likely to be bush types. So dont pinch out or prune anything. It's a bit of a gamble but what can you do. If you notice that some are growing particularly vertically rather than bush-like then you can grow it as a cordon.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Yeah they seem to be jumping out horizontally but the main stem deffo seems to need support. I'll just tie up the main stems for support so. Thanks again:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭CorsendonkX


    I never noticed the difference between bush and cordon toms, anytime I have grown them I treated both the same way, trained them up string, removed side shoots and ended up with an 8ft plant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Well maybe the difference isn't always as noticable in a country with such a short growing season as Ireland's, but the bush types would be determinate and crop over a short time whereas the indeterminate cordons keep going. So if you pinch out the shoots on the bushes you're taking away from the final amount of fruit.
    Both can be grown like the other but to maximise the crop I guess the theory is to let the bushes crop heavily over a short time and the cordons gradually over a longer time.
    I have a few maskotka for example which is a mini bush. There's no way that would ever get to 8 foot :) It hits about 2 - 3 foot tall and just keeps going outwards. It's full of fruit at various stages now but not putting out any more new flowers.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    I'm not sure if mine are bush or vine. I've just tied the main stem up and let the 'branches' all hang loose. Some of the bigger ones seem to heavy and are drooping, and there's not a tomato in sight yet, though there are quite a few flowers on some of them.ill just leave them alone and keep feeding them every week.
    Thanks lads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    What's the history with them? When did you sow the seed? How long are they in those pots? How old is e compost in the pots and what size the pots? No chance of findin out the names?


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Hey
    One set were planted 19 match and another set about a week later. They were all put in pots outside and all but two pots have come one, weird.
    3 of them are over a foot tall so this week I put them into huge flower pots, tied 1 to a stake and the other two, to string the top of which is tied to the fence their beside. The rest were also all transplanted into bigger pots yesterday and the day before( that pic I posted) though I'll obviously have to move the little ones(not pictured) into bigger pots.
    Used brand new compost on all of them upon transporting and have been feeding them with tomato feed once a week for the last month(I'm late with that, I know)

    That's about it I think? Some later ones I set a few weeks ago I think were regular tomatoes(gardeners friends or millionaire or something?)

    Lesson learned. Gonna start writing down names and keeping more detailed records!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Absolutely. Next year will be better. That's my motto :)
    Gardeners delight? Sweet million?if its those then they are both vine tomatoes that you grow up a cane or string. And you nip out the side shoots.

    This is a great book to start with ...
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/0903505460/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1372890133&sr=1-1&keywords=the+vegetable+expert&condition=used

    1p plus delivery


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Side shoots? does that mean like all the 'branches' and just leave the bush on top?

    I'll deffo get that book. Thanks so much for all your help Redser!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    No! :)
    the anatomy is like this ... You have the main stem. You have leafy branches that grow off the stem. You have trusses which are basically the flowering parts that develop into tomatoes. These grow off the stem also. look closely and learn to recognise the difference.
    Then you have sideshoots. Sideshoots are basically more main stems. Tomatoes left to their own devices will grow into a messy mass of stems that keep going on so long as there is heat and light. Here in Ireland we don't have much of these so we want to stop the plant developing stems. The idea is to focus the plant energy into ripening as many tomatoes as we can in our short cool summer. So we cut out or nip out with your thumb nail and forefinger the sideshoots. This lets the plant pump energy into the toms. The sideshoots grow in the axis of the stem and a leafy branch. Take a look at your plants, you'll spot them immediately. Problem is you can miss them easily and in the space of a week they can grow a few inches long.
    You can cut them off and pop them into water and they will form roots to make a new plant.
    Toms are great :) hard to kill and easy to propagate. The skill comes in finding the right balance that will give you the biggest crop.

    Find the time to read this ...
    http://nickykylegardening.com/blog/157-tomato-report-2012


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    I know the ones you mean!! A good few of them have come on on a few of mine should I cut them off even though they're quite big here and there?

    I'm going to hospital today so ill read that while I'm waiting. Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Yes cut them off. Use a sharp knife or scissors. You don't want a frayed end that can get infected, just a nice clean cut near where it joins the stem. Smaller ones will snap off nicely if you push them to the side.
    Pop the off cut in a tall glass of water for an experiment :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭CorsendonkX


    Side shoots easily break on toms, you shouldn't have to use a knife to remove them. Just pinch them out when they are an inch or 2. Letting them grow any longer just wastes plant nutrition.

    I use this training system. Better than a cane support system.



    Tip: twist the plant first around the string before shooting as on cold days the head can snap off so you will need one of the side shoots to become the new plant head. I shoot and twist the plants regularly about once a week. If I miss a shoot and a truss has developed on the shoot I pinch the head off the shoot out and leave the truss to develop.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    In an ideal world we'd catch all the sideshoots nice and small. But if you miss one and they get big and thick I find its best to cut them. Don't want to have to rip it and risk tearing a strip down the main stem.
    I read the break more readily in the evening time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭CorsendonkX


    redser7 wrote: »
    In an ideal world we'd catch all the sideshoots nice and small. But if you miss one and they get big and thick I find its best to cut them. Don't want to have to rip it and risk tearing a strip down the main stem.
    I read the break more readily in the evening time.

    Early morning or evening. Even with big shoots if you have the correct technique you can break the shoot cleanly without using a knife or scissors. As I said with a missed large shoot just pinch the head out with your fingers and leave the truss so no need for a knife.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Better work on my technique so :)
    I'm leaving a couple plants to develop 3 stems each and push the number of trusses to maybe 15 or 20. They were early sown so if its a half decent summer might work out.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    I keep reading about suckers. Are they those branches that don't do anything? Should I have at them with a clippers?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Suckers are the same thing as sideshoots. Here's a photo, 4 posts down ...

    http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/grapevine/vegging-out/71654-few-questions-about-my-tomato-plants-3.html


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Ah I'll leave em alone so. I have 15 plants on the go. Be afraid I'd do more harm than good. Thanks redser


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    hmm, things is on some type (known as vine or cordon or indeterminate) you need to take them out.
    Bush types, keep them on.
    I will be easier next year as you will know from day 1 how you will grow them, based on the info on the seed pachet.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    These lads are flying up. Some tiny baby green tomatoes here and there yet some of the flowers seem to be falling off having rotted and dot seem to be producing.
    I'll be happy with even a few successful ones to be honest:)
    They're being well fed and looked after:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 110 ✭✭hairynipple


    Heres how my moneymakers are doing. Cant wait for the first ripe one! Its gona be a bumber crop hopefully thanks to our mediterranean summer!!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    Wow. They're well on!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 7,611 ✭✭✭david75


    So I've been away and come back to what looks like chaos!
    Anyone know what I should do with these? They look like they need space(which I don't have) and tying up. Any help appreciated
    null-1263.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 133 ✭✭Marzipan85


    Hi
    I'm also a newbie to growing tomatoes this year. Sown at the end of May. The indoor ones are very leggy. Seems obvious now that they were waiting to get above shaded area before fruiting.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,300 ✭✭✭martinn123


    Bumper crop, thanks to the weather

    Just starting to ripen, anyone picking yet??


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