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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Silicone grease is what's recommended. Although I had none to hand the last time I changed my pads, and there hasn't been any adverse effect. I suppose the negative effect would be squeaking under braking.


  • Registered Users Posts: 117 ✭✭Focus_sligo


    Today, I fitted a new driveshaft and hub and 2 new tyres to the st!

    Xmas money gone in a flash


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,652 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    nd wrote: »
    [...] Anyone know what to use on a 02 corolla slider pins?

    http://www.frost.co.uk/red-rubber-grease-500g.html

    I also used copper grease before, but stopped since I heard copper grease damages rubber.

    Silicone grease's OK. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    joujoujou wrote: »
    http://www.frost.co.uk/red-rubber-grease-500g.html

    I also used copper grease before, but stopped since I heard copper grease damages rubber.

    Silicone grease's OK. :)

    Red rubber is for assembling calipers.

    Copper grease is better on sliders as it won't hold dirt and leaves a thin layer for far longer.

    Just don't go mad with amount you use


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    I've been using this stuff on the slider pins. Just make sure the rubber boots are in good shape. Had no problems with the grease drying out on the sliders but it doesn't seem to last very long on the back of the pads or the wings of the pad so I'm going to start using copper grease there.
    $%28KGrHqZ,!qIE-0vS9lVeBP7DKlqNrg~~60_35.JPG


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,986 ✭✭✭cletus


    Wife was complaining of vibration in the steering wheel when braking, so in between showers today replaced front discs and pads on her X-Trail. Haven't put the micrometer on the old ones yet but they look like they are below tolerance.

    Had to take a lump hammer to the drivers side to persuade it to come off


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    And so goes the saying, if in doubt, sledge it out :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    And so goes the saying, if in doubt, sledge it out :D

    tap tap tap. tap. tap.... BANG, there it goes :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Interslice wrote: »
    tap tap tap. tap. tap.... BANG, there it goes :pac:

    :pac: Or in the event of something of considerable size


    bang bang bang bang -various profanities- bang bang BANG aha! gotcha ya big -insert insult here- :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,652 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    [...]


    bang bang bang bang -various profanities- bang bang BANG aha! gotcha ya big -insert insult here- :pac:

    ^^My favourite method! :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    Had a low coolant light pop up on mine about a week ago. I knew it wasn't leaking, but also knew that i had never bled the system properly after replacing the rad. I reckon finally using the heater on full in the car managed to change something that resulted in the sensor picking up on the air in the system. So today I went about the painfully annoying task of trying to bleed the system. I *think* it's sorted now; but honest I just don't know. All the info I have for bleeding the system is very wishy washy, so it's hard to know if it's right. Drove it for 20 miles or so and it was grand, and after inspection there were no leaks, so fingers crossed. #e46problems.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,172 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Picked up a sub locally from Adverts - now have bass in my life again! Yay! :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    here's what ericthecarguy says in relation to the slide pins :confused:

    http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=3

    "The proper lubricant is silicone paste, not grease. Grease is petroleum-based and will eat away at the rubber boots on the slide pins. Once the rubber deteriorates it can cause the pins to bind and not move correctly. In addition to that, when the grease mixes with the silicone that should already be lubricating the slide pin, bad things happen chemically. In addition to all that, grease was never designed for the heat that your brakes produce, so it tends to dry up. After it dries up, the caliper slides don't work and your brakes don't work as well as they could.

    In addition to grease, DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE to lubricate caliper slide pins. It's probably the worst thing to use on caliper slides, because it dries up and causes the pins to seize. I know that sounds ironic considering the lubricant’s name, but it's true. "


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Time found! New trackrod and brakes ahoy
    15575622227_e4fd24e0b1_h.jpg

    Major problem I attempted to fix on the quick: Some anus who had the car before me crossthreadded all the bolts on the rear left. Dickheads :rolleyes:
    15758918841_dabb851a27_h.jpg

    Well that failed miserably an after quite the scare on the motorway, I bit the bullet and pulled this out of my arse
    15575990850_ac9110c7b6_h.jpg

    And promptly tore the old one out
    15574946859_7cfbc15be3_h.jpg

    Refitted and no more bolt loss :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    nd wrote: »
    here's what ericthecarguy says in relation to the slide pins :confused:

    http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=3

    "The proper lubricant is silicone paste, not grease. Grease is petroleum-based and will eat away at the rubber boots on the slide pins. Once the rubber deteriorates it can cause the pins to bind and not move correctly. In addition to that, when the grease mixes with the silicone that should already be lubricating the slide pin, bad things happen chemically. In addition to all that, grease was never designed for the heat that your brakes produce, so it tends to dry up. After it dries up, the caliper slides don't work and your brakes don't work as well as they could.

    In addition to grease, DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE to lubricate caliper slide pins. It's probably the worst thing to use on caliper slides, because it dries up and causes the pins to seize. I know that sounds ironic considering the lubricant’s name, but it's true. "

    I started doing it as it was in the VAG workshop manuals I have.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,331 ✭✭✭toyotaavensis


    Changed the mothers skoda superb bulbs to osram nightbreaker unlimiteds. Was 10% off from micksgarage with code lamp10.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    Interslice wrote: »
    I started doing it as it was in the VAG workshop manuals I have.

    You started using the silicon grease you posted? I'm not sure ericthecarguy is right. Looking at wikipedia there is no specific thing described as silicon paste. And that 3m stuff he recommends says on it's website that it's only a paste at room temperature. Was going to try silicon grease myself but none of the 3 local motor factors had it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,480 ✭✭✭YbFocus


    I always use Copper grease and never had any adverse affects.
    Always put some on the backs of the pads and the front of the hubs too for that matter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    nd wrote: »
    You started using the silicon grease you posted? I'm not sure ericthecarguy is right. Looking at wikipedia there is no specific thing described as silicon paste. And that 3m stuff he recommends says on it's website that it's only a paste at room temperature. Was going to try silicon grease myself but none of the 3 local motor factors had it.


    Had to get that stuff on ebay, couldn't find it anywhere local. My mate has a tin of it in his workshop that would be more of a paste. The stuff I have has the consistency of watery jelly at room temp and just turns to a thick oil when you spread it on the sliders.

    ybfocus I don't think the silcon is any better/worse at lubricating it just won't damage the boot in the long term. If a boot fails the caliper will sieze up pretty quick, same with the dust seal on the piston. I'm going to start putting copper on the outside bits alright as the silicon just washes straight off, just keeping it away from any of the rubber bits. I have had that silicon on sliders for over a year and checked them again and they were still well greased.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    I just use a bit of cv grease. Never had any problems with it.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,219 ✭✭✭pablo128


    Ceratec grease is what you need. Made by Mintex exactly for this purpose.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    I was looking at that and on micksgarage it said it was for mainly the backs of pads to reduce squeel ect and there was pretty much no info on mintex's website. But I've contacted both this morning and they've both said it is suitable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,652 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    nd wrote: »
    [...] it was for main the backs of pads to reduce squeel ect [...]
    Don't you have anti-squeal shims on pads?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    Well what i asked them was if it was suitable for use on the slide pins, which they said it was.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    I've never seen such a fuss made over a bit of grease in my life lads :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    I know, I just hate the thought of putting something on it that isn't suitable!

    Here's some more reading if anyone has nothing at all to do!
    http://www.tirereview.com/brake-lubricants-101/


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,506 ✭✭✭Titzon Toast


    Not today if I'm honest, but last week I changed the thermostat, fuel, air, and cabin filters on my diesel A6.
    The ones I took off were absolutely manky!
    I've got two arb droplinks and two lower wishbones waiting to put into it now aswell, hopefully that should see it right for a while.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,704 ✭✭✭Cheensbo


    Some of ye might have noticed me banging on about having trouble with fuelling in my Paj,

    Well the problem was mainly caused by diesel bug (bacteria/slime which grows in the diesel), which, was being sucked through a broken pickup filter in the tank and in turn blocking the main fuel filter and depriving the engine of fuel & power!

    Here's a few pics of what was done:

    The offending article: 92 Misti Pajero 2.5 swb
    GOPR3666.jpg

    Caked pickup filter, this also had gaping hole in it! :eek:
    IMG_49471.jpg

    Tank drained, note the absolute filth of the diesel that came out
    image5.jpg

    The inside of the tank with a few litres left in it, see all the sh1t sitting at the bottom
    image1.jpg
    IMG_4976.jpg

    Out with the weapon of choice :D
    GOPR3672.jpg

    And the resulting sparkling tank
    image4.jpg
    image3.jpg

    All that done, + new fuel filter, lines blasted out with compressed air, fuel pump gauze cleaned out, full system primed with a hand pump.. Now she runs as sweet as a nut :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,652 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    I put my money into my car today.

    14 EUR - crankshaft seal,

    50 EUR - gearbox fluid,

    170 EUR - gearbox replacement.

    Now I need a loan to survive. facepalm.gif


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    joujoujou wrote: »
    I put my money into my car today.

    14 EUR - crankshaft seal,

    50 EUR - gearbox fluid,

    170 EUR - gearbox replacement.

    Now I need a loan to survive. facepalm.gif

    Bloody amateur!! :pac: If parts for my car cost that much I'd be celebrating :P


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