Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

rizzee

Got new shock absorbers on the front and rebooked nct for Friday.

Also got a bullet/stump aerial and the plastic clip i needed for the parcel shelf so fits in nice.

dr.fuzzenstein

lafors wrote: »

What's wrong with your own, did you check all the solder joints?

Took it apart, had a look, perfect. Just won't work.

Hal1

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Took it apart, had a look, perfect. Just won't work.

So you used the 2 working keys to enter programming mode right?

dr.fuzzenstein

Hal1 wrote: »

So you used the 2 working keys to enter programming mode right?

No need:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7_HmTNcmHM

You need two working keys to program a third one with a new chip, but this is just adding a remote central locking device. Much easier.

Hal1

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

No need:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7_HmTNcmHM

You need two working keys to program a third one with a new chip, but this is just adding a remote central locking device. Much easier.

Does the key still manually lock and unlock the doors though?

dr.fuzzenstein

Hal1 wrote: »

Does the key still manually lock and unlock the doors though?

Locks and unlocks (meaning the blade is OK) and starts the car (meaning chip is OK), but won't remotely unlock it (Meaning transponder is fcuked).

Hal1

Well it should say the frequency on the key 433Mhz. They are usually siemens brand too. Maybe it's the wrong frequency on the one you got. I'd say they would change it for you if you returned it. A load of balls though...

dr.fuzzenstein

Hal1 wrote: »

Well it should say the frequency on the key 433Mhz. They are usually siemens brand too. Maybe it's the wrong frequency on the one you got. I'd say they would change it for you if you returned it. A load of balls though...

I haven't received it yet. What happened is that I walked away from my car, locked it and nothing happened. It had worked only half an hour earlier. (This is with the existing key I've had since I bought the car)
I tried a few times, nothing. Changed the battery, nothing. tried reprogramming the existing key using the procedure in the video, nothing.
This leaves two possibilities, key gone or receiver gone.
Since it is cheaper to replace the innards of the key, that is the next step. Since that key has had a hard life, what with being soaked and thrown around over the years, a malfunction is not impossible.
If that doesn't work, I'm in trouble...

Hal1

In that case I'd say there is a good chance the new key will work. The problem with the keys is the micro switches wear out. They are the contacts under the buttons. So there will be times you're key you have now will work and not work. I had trouble with my own keys and went through the same process as yourself.

Gavman84

So I finally got my center cap overlays Monday so fitted them last night.
Had to remove them with my tusty tool(blutac!) and wash them. I then cleaned them with IPA.

After that heated the back of the overlays and surface of the cap and stuck it on making sure the press the edges down properly and used heat to do this too.
Half way there

Back on the car now happy out small things make a good difference!

Interslice

They look great! But why IPA!! waste of good ale that!!

L-M

New shoes

Alanstrainor

Nice! What size are the tires on the rear? Look wide...

wotzgoingon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiygG8Gx7bg

L-M

8s all round with a 195 50

dgt

It doesn't take long....



It needed off anyway to sort a leak. When off, I altered it to my spec:

• 10mm distributor head
• 0.6mm dynamic advance shim
• Altered speed govenor spring
• Custom wind down of the star wheel
• Custom cut LDA to my spec
• Longer throw on the throttle cradle

And other crap like a static advance, fiddling with adjustment screws, wax stat delete etc

Severe lack of pictures but meh, you've seen me do it before


Result: an insanely responsive diesel, silly amounts of reek and a knackered clutch

Which means an excuse to pull the engine out for that

To put this old school lump in too

Alanstrainor

Oil changed. Wanted to change the oil level sensor, but I didn't give enough of a feck to do it! The car is driving smooth, 1 year and 3000miles since the last change. I reckon it runs smoother, but that's probably all in my noggin!

dr.fuzzenstein

Limerick man wrote: »

New shoes

http://s137.photobucket.com/user/carmadgar/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150403_105218.jpg.html

Did I see that at Cars and Coffee in Limerick and the Tipperary vintage show today?

Which is what I did with my car today (the MX5). Brought it to C&C and Tipp.
Was fitting a kitchen yesterday, so no time to spruce it up, there it was in all it's filthy glory.

challengemaster

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Oil changed. Wanted to change the oil level sensor, but I didn't give enough of a feck to do it! The car is driving smooth, 1 year and 3000miles since the last change. I reckon it runs smoother, but that's probably all in my noggin!

That's a criminal waste of oil :pac:

Alanstrainor

challengemaster wrote: »

That's a criminal waste of oil :pac:

You're welcome to the old stuff, only one careful owner.

Noccy_Mondy

Alanstrainor wrote:

Oil changed. Wanted to change the oil level sensor, but I didn't give enough of a feck to do it! The car is driving smooth, 1 year and 3000miles since the last change. I reckon it runs smoother, but that's probably all in my noggin!

3000 miles :eek:

Both of my yokes have exactly 12,000 miles gone since the last service. I actually hate having to get into either of them, because you know, they could blow up :pac:

Both are getting fully serviced this week. My wallet hurts already

Bpmull

The thing about it is it's good practice to change the oil every year even if you are a long way of the specified distance interval. As of course oil degrades over time as well as mileage. I suppose it much the same with a timming belt if left long enough it will snap even if there is only ting mileage on the belt.

YbFocus

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Oil changed. Wanted to change the oil level sensor, but I didn't give enough of a feck to do it! The car is driving smooth, 1 year and 3000miles since the last change. I reckon it runs smoother, but that's probably all in my noggin!

Car is due it's second oil change with me.
Forest one was January second at 108, she's in 116 now so is asking for it!

Could it be possible to do a 32k mile year in this car without breaking myself

Duke O Smiley

Okay so here's yesterdays update. Babysitting my nephew so I don't really have a load of time to do much but I managed to strip out the interior with the help of the man himself. Solid floors. Delighted! Seats and doorcards will be re-trimmed by my mother in the same colours and I will fit the grey carpet I have when I can, theres a bit of work involved to get it to fit.

dr.fuzzenstein

I would have a good poke around that, because if you can see any rust on a Beetle, there's about 10 times as much underneath.
And even if the body looks good, the separate chassis might be something else altogether.
This does not look all that solid from the pics. Careful or you'll be driving a Flintstone mobile.

Interslice

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

I would have a good poke around that, because if you can see any rust on a Beetle, there's about 10 times as much underneath.
And even if the body looks good, the separate chassis might be something else altogether.
This does not look all that solid from the pics. Careful or you'll be driving a Flintstone mobile.

Id be delighted with that floor tbh. Looks very solid to me. Hardly a beetle with that tunnel down the middle of the car either

Started fixing up a friends type 3 camper over the weekend. Tightened the throttle cable. Made some difference. Need every hp you can get from the 1.6d. Going to do a bit of resto on the body paint and engine over the summer. We were going to turbo it but she'll do 65 mph pn the flat now so mightnt bother. Great fun to drive ever though its slow. Probably about 40 seconds to 60!

dr.fuzzenstein

Interslice wrote: »

Id be delighted with that floor tbh. Looks very solid to me. Hardly a beetle with that tunnel down the middle of the car either

Started fixing up a friends type 3 camper over the weekend. Tightened the throttle cable. Made some difference. Need every hp you can get from the 1.6d. Going to do a bit of resto on the body paint and engine over the summer. We were going to turbo it but she'll do 65 mph pn the flat now so mightnt bother. Great fun to drive ever though its slow. Probably about 40 seconds to 60!

Sorry what was I thinking!
Not wearing my glasses is my excuse.

I had 2 T3 camper with the 1.6 diesel. Forget it. Throw a TDI lump from a Passat in there. The current lump will disintegrate because it was never meant to lug a van around. Most comfy car I ever owned and the slowest by several lightyears.

dgt

Thanks to a clogged iphoney there is a severe lack of pics again!

Changed the t-belt in the 525 today


It's fairly simple. Remove 3 aux belts, visco fan and pulley, put engine into tdc, crank pulley and damper, distributor and rotor arm, move a bracket to one side, remove the covers, loosen tensioner. Off it pops.

All I have is the pic of the visco fan off, it's a 32mm nut and left thread. So none of this lefty loosey bolloxogy


Old belt wasn't in bad shape at all but was on the car at least 9 years...!!!!

Faffing about I had it done in about 2 hours

Now to sort out that bloody trans program issue.... :mad:

Hal1

What about the water pump, or is that for another day? good job though in fairness and one many wouldn't be brave enough to attempt, but you always make these things look easy .

nd

Just wondering for anyone that has done it. How difficult on a scale of 1-10, 10 being very hard is it to change a timing belt and head gasket? (00 avensis)