Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

dgt

nd wrote: »

Just wondering for anyone that has done it. How difficult on a scale of 1-10, 10 being very hard is it to change a timing belt and head gasket? (00 avensis)

What engine

dgt

Hal1 wrote: »

What about the water pump, or is that for another day? good job though in fairness and one many wouldn't be brave enough to attempt, but you always make these things look easy .

I'll take a mad fit someday and do the whole lot in the engine bay:

• Waterpump
• Distributor head + rotor arm
• All coolant pipework
• Tappet adjustment
• Sump gasket

And I'm sure I've missed some

This belt was fairly simple though :P

nd

4A FE leanburn

Alanstrainor

Bpmull wrote: »

The thing about it is it's good practice to change the oil every year even if you are a long way of the specified distance interval. As of course oil degrades over time as well as mileage. I suppose it much the same with a timming belt if left long enough it will snap even if there is only ting mileage on the belt.

Yup, every year no matter what the mileage. I've covered about 800 miles in the last 3 weeks, so it was due! About to roll over 131,000 now

Brakes will be done next weekend hopefully. Bosche OEM disks and EBC Greenstuff pads. Looking forward to trying that configuration. The current pads and disks are actually fine, but sure a bit of extra braking power is always good!

Voodoomelon

A strange fault occured today on the 740, the electric steering column wouldn't go up or down, but it did go in and out.

A quick Google revealed its a common problem, a small circlip on the end of a worm drive gets "seized" on and needs a light tap with a hammer to get it freed up again.



Simply pull up on the plastic trim to reveal the top of the steering column.


That's the silver circlip on the brass worm drive, it should be able to spin freely but gets wedged onto the end section.



Quick tap with a screwdriver and hammer and it's freed up, lubed with silicone grease and it works perfect!

zurbfoundation

nd wrote: »

4A FE leanburn

take a look at our friend from Donegal change one on a carina e - same engine

Lekrub

I changed my rear brake pads (merc w202) for the upcoming nct. They werent 100% gone but close enough. I used some cheap 20 euro pads (mintec?). It wasnt worth splashing out on expensive ones as its not a keeper car.


Now the squeak when the brakes are fully applied won't go away. Have driven about 30 miles. I thought they would of bedded in by now.

Duke O Smiley

Bit of an update here. Been doing a few bits over the last few days. The interior is back in, non-original carpet bought from Carpet Right for the bargain price of a tenner, cut to fit quite nicely I must say, proper happy with the job, only stabbed myself twice with the blade too. It's grey, and really quite nice I must say. I haven't any photos at the moment but I will get some when I can. Door cards are recovered now. Seats, had my mother just stitch up the few little tears in them as I can't quite afford to have them totally reupholstered right now. Nice job done on them anyway so I am happy.
Anyway, the big bit I guess - she's primed and (almost) ready for paint. Just finished there this evening. Few little bits to mess around with and adjust but overall ye get the just. I do have new bumpers for her too, I just wasn't arsed tackling rusty stubborn bolts today. I'm really happy with the progress thus far anyway. Still the matter of mending the clutch rod and she'll be running 100%. I'm hoping to get her running well for the show at Swords next weekend but I am not going to rush it, so if it isn't ready for it I'll hold off. I'll have to go in primer, but even still I won't mind, just once she gets there under her own steam.

dr.fuzzenstein

That is so cute!

dr.fuzzenstein

Lekrub wrote: »

I changed my rear brake pads (merc w202) for the upcoming nct. They werent 100% gone but close enough. I used some cheap 20 euro pads (mintec?). It wasnt worth splashing out on expensive ones as its not a keeper car.


Now the squeak when the brakes are fully applied won't go away. Have driven about 30 miles. I thought they would of bedded in by now.

Did you apply a good dab of copper grease to the back of the pads?

pablo128

Lekrub wrote: »

I changed my rear brake pads (merc w202) for the upcoming nct. They werent 100% gone but close enough. I used some cheap 20 euro pads (mintec?). It wasnt worth splashing out on expensive ones as its not a keeper car.


Now the squeak when the brakes are fully applied won't go away. Have driven about 30 miles. I thought they would of bedded in by now.

Front pads take about 200 miles to bed in. Rears will take longer, as the only get approx 30% of the power than the fronts.

Noccy_Mondy

Got the rear quarter panel fixed today. Came out perfect. 250 for the job. The break down of the receipt is mad, 45 on materials, paint etc. 175 on labour, the rest was vat. Someone's making money!
Before pic, after to follow

Noccy_Mondy

After, was dusty so it doesn't look the best in that pic, but I washed it and it looks perfect now.

Lekrub

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Did you apply a good dab of copper grease to the back of the pads?

No I just made sure all was clean. I'll pick some up during the week and apply it. Bit of a balls though, like doing the job again! but happy if it stops it. Should it stop it straight away if its a success?

wilford

Never put new pads on without the old copper grease and yes it should stop straight away,

gonzo1

My trusty Steed passed this milestone yesterday:cool:

vectra

^^ What is it?
710kms to empty tank and just over half in it?? :P

gonzo1

vectra wrote: »

^^ What is it?
710kms to empty tank and just over half in it?? :P

Volvo S40 2.0 Diesel

Averaging 48 to 50 mpg, she spends her life on the motorway where she belongs

Not bad for a Volvo / Ford / PSA unit

jprboy

Photography at 65 km/h :eek::pac:

GvidoR

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

That is so cute!

And it says "I JUST WANT TO HUG YOU ALL" on the rear window as well. :P

jprboy wrote: »

Photography at 65 km/h :eek::pac:

I can beat that.

Toyotafanboi

Around Mondello one night a few years ago.

Special Circumstances

I didn't know you were a postman!

Duke O Smiley

Here is the car painted. Overall I am very happy with the results for a home job. It's presentable and a helluva lot nicer than beforehand. Next on the to-do list is Midget brakes / suspension set up, I think. I also got the clutch mended this morning, so really she is ready to rock. Will flat it tomorrow with 1200 wet and dry. Also I think I'm going to do the chrome around the windows in black, as they look a bit odd when the rubbers and stuff are black.

Duke O Smiley

GvidoR wrote: »

Looks good. Are you going to clear coat it as well or leave it at that?

With a really good flat and polish it will come out awesome. Like glass.

I'll finish it tomorrow, I'm wrecked now

colm_mcm

Looks cool

Hal1

Looks very well indeed.

dr.fuzzenstein

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

I haven't received it yet. What happened is that I walked away from my car, locked it and nothing happened. It had worked only half an hour earlier. (This is with the existing key I've had since I bought the car)
I tried a few times, nothing. Changed the battery, nothing. tried reprogramming the existing key using the procedure in the video, nothing.
This leaves two possibilities, key gone or receiver gone.
Since it is cheaper to replace the innards of the key, that is the next step. Since that key has had a hard life, what with being soaked and thrown around over the years, a malfunction is not impossible.
If that doesn't work, I'm in trouble...

Update on the key situation. I have received the PCB bit that goes inside my key and replaced it.


Sadly no joy. When programming the new remote, the car beeps twice to signal it is ready to accept new keys. But it is also supposed to beep to confirm the new remote after a key is pressed.
It doesn't do that for either transmitter and no matter what button is pressed for how long.
That means the car cannot "hear" the radio signal coming from either transmitter.
My next step (according to D'Internet) is to have a look at the receiver situated beside or near or under the cabin light/reading light, not sure where.
So, anyone know where this receiver might be in a CMax and has anyone had any dealings with similar problems?
Any input appreciated.

And Duke, that car looks very cuddly indeed! Strangers will come up and hug you wherever you turn up with that thing.

rex-x

I think you problem may be that your procedure is a re-syncing procedure for keys already programmed to the car. You cant normally re program a key from another car using this technique.

dr.fuzzenstein

rex-x wrote: »

I think you problem may be that your procedure is a re-syncing procedure for keys already programmed to the car. You cant normally re program a key from another car using this technique.

Well, it's not the key or chip belonging to it as such, it's simply a remote that operates the central locking. Programming a key is a very different matter.
The new PCB came with instructions on how to program it. Turn ignition on and off 4 times within 3 seconds. Car beeps twice. Press any key on remote, car beeps again. Turn ignition on and off one more time, it works.
Sadly it doesn't beep for either transmitter. So the car does not receive the signals for whatever reason.

Hal1

That's crap news man. That sensor for the remote locking is the black box attached to the interior light.

Looks like this, note the frequency 433MHz same as the remote fob: