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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Jeepers that's a fair list. I did

    16" upgraded zetec alloys
    Clear side repeaters
    St fog lights
    Front splitter
    Variable speed wiper lever
    Fitted matts
    Footwell lights
    Led reg plate lights
    New reg plates (from Ford, I liked the way they had their font)
    New boot matt
    New gear and handbrake gaitor
    New oem rear view mirror (was one like that out of a euro shop on it)
    New facia (old was worn and chipped in a few spots)
    New oe radio
    New front grille
    New cigarette ligher covers
    New heater backing bulbs
    Mirror adjusting grommets
    Parcel shelf string holders

    Think that's it, seems a bit but most of it is small bits.

    No more!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Agreed. I've finished with it now cost a small fortune but sure I didn't mind that at the time. Now I'm just trying to keep it clean, was doing a bit of anti rust treatment the past week and repairing wheel arches just need a bit of spray paint and clear coat on them. It's coming up to 5 years of ownership now :o.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Nothing major, just one of my fog lights blew there 6 months ago, and I'd been putting it off since. I knew from when I had the bumper off to change the grille that the fog light is pretty inaccessible. Wasn't impossible to change with the bumper on, just a bit akward.
    Take off front splitter
    Unclip the wheel arch trim from the wing
    Separate arch liner from bumper
    Get hand in behind the washer bottle and hope for the best.

    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    image.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    What?!?

    So you don't drive around with your fog lights always on, like us cool boys?!? :eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,454 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I do now!

    Jaysus, state of my wheels after a week.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,984 ✭✭✭cletus


    Serviced the corolla, cleaned the throttle body and maf. Plus threw in a new pollen filter. No pictures because boring


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,925 ✭✭✭GvidoR


    What? Always take pictures! :eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 26,658 ✭✭✭✭OldMrBrennan83


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,218 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Pair of new shocks fitted to the back of the 01 Passat. One of the bottom bolts had me thinking about a cold chisel, but the blow thorch directed at its nut for a few minutes did the trick.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,864 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    4 new shocks fitted. Treated some rust very effectively. Cleaned out the boot and inside, car is now spotless.

    Hopefully it will pass its ensiti on Friday :)

    No pictures because NO PICTURES :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭job seeker


    4 new shocks fitted. Treated some rust very effectively. Cleaned out the boot and inside, car is now spotless.

    Hopefully it will pass its ensiti on Friday :)

    No pictures because NO PICTURES :D

    What product did you use to treat the rust? Or was it a sand, paint jobby?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,864 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    job seeker wrote: »
    What product did you use to treat the rust? Or was it a sand, paint jobby?

    Clean as much as possible, kurust, seam sealer. Looks well :)

    Its more a bodge as I'll need a bit more time to sort more rust (I've had to weld/cobble in a plate in the floor already)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭job seeker


    Clean as much as possible, kurust, seam sealer. Looks well :)

    Its more a bodge as I'll need a bit more time to sort more rust (I've had to weld/cobble in a plate in the floor already)

    Ah nice job!

    Is it essential to use the seam sealer, or could you just use the Kurust on it's own?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,864 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    job seeker wrote: »
    Ah nice job!

    Is it essential to use the seam sealer, or could you just use the Kurust on it's own?

    Its really all I had handy, given the time constraints... I'd be happier using kurust with red oxide and stonechip


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭job seeker


    Its really all I had handy, given the time constraints... I'd be happier using kurust with red oxide and stonechip

    Ah I see. Naw it's just I have some rust that needs treating and want to get it done before the rust really gets bad. I was just goggling the Kurust stuff and it seems to do the job on it's own, that is why I asked. I would just apply the kurust if it would work on it's own. Granted, I'd be spraying over it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    job seeker wrote: »
    Ah I see. Naw it's just I have some rust that needs treating and want to get it done before the rust really gets bad. I was just goggling the Kurust stuff and it seems to do the job on it's own, that is why I asked. I would just apply the kurust if it would work on it's own. Granted, I'd be spraying over it!

    Id use this to remove the rust

    http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-gel

    And apply this afterwards when the metal is free of rust and clean.
    http://www.bilthamber.com/electrox


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Dropped the old gearbox oil out of the Accord, refilled it with 2.2 litres of genuine Honda MTF3 and treated all the bolts on the splashguard to a good dose of ACF50 while I could get to them.
    That MTF3 is some very slick and lightweight oil. also much cheaper from the main dealer than from any online source I could find.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    Finally got my new expansion tank in the post this morning. Did the first few steps tonight, which was removing the old expansion tank from its bracket which was a bit of a pain. Fingers crossed now I'll have a chance to connect all the hoses up and start filling it all up again. Wish me luck y'all!


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Best of luck Alan!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Dropped the old gearbox oil out of the Accord, refilled it with 2.2 litres of genuine Honda MTF3 and treated all the bolts on the splashguard to a good dose of ACF50 while I could get to them.
    That MTF3 is some very slick and lightweight oil. also much cheaper from the main dealer than from any online source I could find.

    Seems to be the way with vag too. Mad money even for budget brand gearbox oil. 7 euro/litre when I got it in vw vs. 11/l in the motor factor for comma 75/90.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    Finally got my new expansion tank in the post this morning. Did the first few steps tonight, which was removing the old expansion tank from its bracket which was a bit of a pain. Fingers crossed now I'll have a chance to connect all the hoses up and start filling it all up again. Wish me luck y'all!

    Car back and running. Still up on stands, and I'm not 100% confident the hoses are all sitting flush. The last time I did this, after finishing I went for a rip up the mountains only for the lower expansion tank hose to fly off spilling coolant everywhere.

    So, I've ran it for 20 minutes, up to temperature, and not much bleeding needed thus far. Everything was lovely and stable. Going to leave the car in the air over night for it to cool down, and check everything again tomorrow. Moving apartment tomorrow... so the car better be ready!

    Also, this is the first I've run the car properly after changing the fuel filter and I'm noticing the car idling a lot better, and returning to idle much more smoothly. I'll hold judgement until I actually have it on the road, but it seems like a worthwhile filter change so far!


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,346 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Picked up a few bits today.
    Just called in to Audi Cork for Caliper anti rattle springs, a dipstick and rear seat retaining clips.
    Then i thought maybe i should get new sliding pins and bushes while I'm there.
    No pins in stock so told yer man throw in the 2 bushes anyway.
    Now everything else was cheap enough so I presumed the bushes would be 3 or 4 euro.
    €16.50!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    For 2 bushes!!!
    98BBC625-91A9-4F37-ADE1-9B3728750E9F_zpsxwq8l5tv.jpg

    Oh and anyone thinking of picking ip a dipstick on e-bay, the level marks may not be quite the same as a genuine one.
    Genuine one i picked up today on left and ebay one on right that i bought a few weeks ago when handle snapped on original one.
    2D39E2D8-79A3-4267-BAF2-211C636C26BC_zpss4vyxsko.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭job seeker


    Nothing better than a new clean dip stick!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    job seeker wrote: »
    Nothing better than a new clean dip stick!

    A dirty dip stick is a misused dip stick :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    So a 98 almera. Gearbox is leaking. I've replaced both cv axle seals, but it's still leaking. Main/input shaft seal is the next most likely?


  • Registered Users Posts: 13,649 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Are you unable to locate where exactly it leaks?


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Filled in some chips with paint and smothered the whole car in sealant.
    If I stand far away and squint I can hardly see the badly filled chips at all...


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,736 ✭✭✭Diabhalta


    CorkMan_ wrote: »
    All I can add is that I have an '86 318i and had a problem in 2011 with hot starting. (Wouldn't start). Eventually turned out to be the fuel pump relay. Mine is the pre-facelift chrome bumper model so not sure of the setup on yours.

    I went to Kearys for a part I needed and asked them what could it be. They said "Throttle idle valve", which in other words is idle control valve. Could become sticky or something. Maybe there isn't correct mixture ratio (more air coming in) so that's why it won't start. Car is still a bit more thirsty than it should be so after some googling I found some info about temperature sensors. There are two, one for the gauge and one for the Ecu which sends the information about temperature to the Ecu and if it's faulty the Ecu thinks that the engine is cold and sending more fuel into the engine. Will have a look at the fuel pump relay too. When the weather gets betters. So in May, maybe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,855 ✭✭✭nd


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Are you unable to locate where exactly it leaks?

    not initially. but I've now taken it apart and turns out it has a crack.

    afeM5vl.jpg
    other side
    ruR4RSJ.jpg

    Anyone know what material a 98 almera gearbox is likely to be made from and if it's weldable?

    If not, chemical metal type stuff? It's obviously not a very valuable car.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,346 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    nd wrote: »
    not initially. but I've now taken it apart and turns out it has a crack.

    afeM5vl.jpg
    other side
    ruR4RSJ.jpg

    Anyone know what material a 98 almera gearbox is likely to be made from and if it's weldable?

    If not, chemical metal type stuff? It's obviously not a very valuable car.

    Cast iron i presume.
    One out of a scrappy might be your best option.


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