Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

crasy dash

Never used bolk is it a good oil?
Thats a good price for 20l last time i did a service 5l oil for the daysul was 50:o

Interslice

crasy dash wrote: »

Never used bolk is it a good oil?
Thats a good price for 20l last time i did a service 5l oil for the daysul was 50:o

Seems alright ye. Engine sounds good. Hasn't blown up in the the last 40k km using it anyway. If it meets all the diffferent specs that it does it cant be that bad.

Cheap as chips at the moment too. Might stock up again. Used up the last one.

Just ordered those bits for him. Alot of stuff for 180 quid. 25 litres for the same price as the 20 last time.

Engine Oil 5W40 C3 - 5 Litres BOLK BOL-D091020 €21.30 5 €106.50
Tie Rod End FEBI BILSTEIN 38724 €19.52 1 €19.52
Tie Rod End FEBI BILSTEIN 38723 €19.52 1 €19.52
Cabin air filter MANN-FILTER CUK 2723-2 €20.44 1 €20.44
Shipping cost : €15.95
Total cost: €181.93

Slideways

This week I did some things to my car.
- got towed after parking in a clearway. Oops $370
-broke a rego plate, can only get from DOT $250
-fan belt idler $50
- greased and adjust front wheel bearings
- adjust handbrake
- fitted new fuel sender unit to front fuel tank $250

At least my fuel gauge has stopped leaping all over the place and it no longer needs to be parked in gear

Only photos I took was of the sender unit change out

OldMrBrennan83

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Slideways

Patww79 wrote: »

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Yup. you can only get them as a pair and they are private plates

Foxhole Norman

Got the contours installed yesterday, electrician did a savage job on them!







Delighted with them!

Special Circumstances

Cabin filter, air filter, fuel filter. All handy.

Engine undertray back on. No bother.

Intercooler off, cleaned inside and out, fins straightened up. Pain of a job tbh.

Special Circumstances

Oh yeah cleaned throttle body while I was at it.
Throttle body and intercooler were impressively clean for a car too old be insured with FBD.

Got childish amusement from subtle backfire on trailing throttle as the petrol I used to clean the intercooler was worked through the system.
Just nice subtle puppup-pup. Nothing nasty.

Ded_Zebra

Today I took a stab at taking the farmyard look off the little 156. It wasn't too bad really but lurking under there somewhere is a fairly clean car...

I don't have very many "before" pics but here's one. My mechanic gave it a scrub with a brush before I collected it so it took the really bad look off it.



Auto wheels doing it's thing.



Lots of tar on it. Didn't have any tar remover but some petrol on a micro fibre is a great substitute. Don't have an after of the tar being removed but I guess you can imagine what that looks like!



2bm wash



I was going to clay the car but there was so much contamination on it it literally shredded the clay leaving the clay to the surface of the car. Had to iron cleanse the car first.





I then did a 2 stage machine polish and sealed it in with Auto Glym Extra Gloss Protection. I got a bit sick of taking photos of the process but here's some afters.





How long until this is black again :pac:



Fairly straight down the flanks

Foxhole Norman

Also treated her to some new rears, badly needed and the car is much more stable now!

Voodoomelon

Contoured seats looks great, difference is night and day. Did your E39 have the correct wire harness underneath? I'm sure they had heated pads inside, plans to connect them up?

Dutchie

I was washing my wifes 151 D nissan x trail last night. After washing by hand with a sponge i rinced with power washer like i've done hundreds of times before on many different makes of cars. I couldn't believe my eyes when a large piece of paint lifted from the front wing as per images.

The car was bought used from a Nissan main dealer 4 months ago, i'm concerned now that it has been sprayed before as factory paint should not peel in this manner.

Can anyone advise on best course of action with the car and the garage i bought it from?
many thanks.

Foxhole Norman

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Contoured seats looks great, difference is night and day. Did your E39 have the correct wire harness underneath? I'm sure they had heated pads inside, plans to connect them up?

Sound, I love them, like armchairs now :pac: I'm not sure if they would've been the same connection as they were previously in another E39 and that wiring job was completely hatchet, even held together with duct tape. The electrician did a massive job in that he made his own connector out of bits and made them plug and play!

I do plan on looking into heating as I hear it's easy enough to do on E39's once I get the correct trim piece with the buttons!

Dale Parish

Replaced the propshaft on my diesel e39 last night - it's at 271k miles so it's starting to have a bit of play (clanging noises when changing gear etc)

Old one coming off..


Diff after it's taken off


Propshaft coupling


"New" shaft fitted


Obligatory oil change

Interslice

NCT stuff. Sorted out the rear drivers side brake pipe and the handbrake. Was getting loads of handbrake on the far side but nothing form this caliper. Hydraulic braking was fine.

Had to connect the pipe in front of the fuel tank feed it back between the tank and chassis leg.







Hand brake problem was a bit of a strange one. Thought at first I had a siezed or stretched cable on one side... The lever on the caliper was travelling fully forward to the stop, as in the pics, with the hand brake up and not releasing very far. The disk could be turned by hand . The caliper on the other side was working fine and no where near this stop. In the end and a few cups of tea later I had to reset the handbrake mech in the caliper by just using a flathead to lever the handbrake as far open as it would go and and get someone else to pump the pedal. Done that on both sides and all is well.

shietpilot

I need to get myself a brake pipe flaring kit! Where did you get yours?

Interslice

Looks like your doing the propshaft on a lorry dale!

shietpilot wrote: »

I need to get myself a brake pipe flaring kit! Where did you get yours?

Borrowed the kit of a friend along with some pipe and a little cutting tool. A good bit of work in yesterdays jobs but they didn't cost me a penny .

Dale Parish

Interslice wrote: »

Looks like your doing the propshaft on a lorry dale!

uhuhuhuh yeah there was a Volvo FM over the pit as well

nd

extensive corrosion flagged up by the nct of the subframe of a (vauxhall) corsa I have.


they said if it was welded I'd have to supply an engineers report so recommened getting a second hand one.


off


took me a couple of hours but wasn't too bad. Now have to source a second hand one.

sorry for the sh!te photos.

Special Circumstances

Great Craic I'd say nd! I hope I never have to do one. Was one or two "for the sake of it" jobs that involved front or rear sub frames on older cars I had and I just thought, f**k it those bolts are gonna f**k me up for the fun of it if I even think of moving them.

nd

yeah I snapped the 3 exhaust bolts trying to get them off so will have to drill them out when putting it back together. And the large reverse torx bolts were a bit of a pain as I didn't have the right socket for them. But an ordinary socket got them off thankfully

dar_cool

shietpilot wrote: »

I need to get myself a brake pipe flaring kit! Where did you get yours?

One he is using is a power hand tool, super bit of kit. I've used mine loads and has flared loads of cars. 30 quid on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151035636166

blade1

Fitting Wezmoto braided lines as we speak.
One side done
Sexy or wha??:pac:


Old ones a bit perished

dar_cool

Nice. Should make good bit of difference

blade1

dar_cool wrote: »

Nice. Should make good bit of difference

Done now and feels better alright.

I have 2 for the rear brakes which I might do tomorrow.

Wondering when I am doing the back ones is it ok to bleed just them or should i do all four to be safe??

Also I used one of those bleeders that connects to a compressor.
First time using one and i was expecting a better flow of fluid than what came out.
Brakes seem ok though.

Hal1

It's recommended to bleed all four brakes, starting with the one furthest away first. I used a gunson bleed kit and the recommended pressure was 20psi or else it might cause some damage to the system.

blade1

Hal1 wrote: »

It's recommended to bleed all four brakes, starting with the one furthest away first. I used a gunson bleed kit and the recommended pressure was 20psi or else it might cause some damage to the system.

This the one I have.
I may just check them the old way(2 person method)tomorrow just to make sure.

dar_cool

Drag the wife / girlfriend / mother out and do the old fashioned pump the brakes!! My wife hates when I'm working on the brakes or the clutch!! Ha ha

landmarkjohn

Replaced water pump, timing belt, CV boot, steering boot, 1 X valve cover gasket and oil change on Mazda Xedos 9, 2.5 V6. Car at 177K miles so should be the last TB and water pump... but you never know!:D

4 days, interspersed with half dozen trips to motor factors and friends for parts and tools. The crankshaft pulley and hub nut had both been off before so didn't get the drama on those parts. Left hand timing cover was the hardest bit to refit, on top wiggle a bit, underneath wiggle a bit, on top wig......:mad: you get the idea.

This job cost €400 on parts (the €22 in Wurth for silicone sealant was the only item I considered "expensive") so it is easy to see how a maintenance work in a garage can add up.

fancy pigeon

blade1 wrote: »

This the one I have.
I may just check them the old way(2 person method)tomorrow just to make sure.

Ahhhhh another person using a pull through setup :cool: