Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

blade1

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Ahhhhh another person using a pull through setup :cool:

Good or bad?

fancy pigeon

blade1 wrote: »

Good or bad?

I originally used the push through system but it refused to seal properly, right down to 8psi. I found this odd as I had used it on previous W202's without any issues, both with standard and uprated calipers (standard in those pics for clarification)

It was especially handy for bleeding the clutch where the slave is jammed up against the tunnel and there's not much room to open the nipple willy nilly

The result was a very much improved pedal and no sponginess afterwards. I have since changed all the calipers and had to re-bleed the system, again I was very happy with the result (although it helps that all discs and pads are new )

The key is to have a compressor with a massive tank (I have 4, 2 of which are attached to 200L tanks so I'm fine but a 100L tank will struggle with supplying air to the suction constantly even if you have a high CFM compressor)

TLDR: push though works on some cars better than others, hence I have both systems for when it doesn't

blade1

fancy pigeon wrote: »

I originally used the push through system but it refused to seal properly, right down to 8psi. I found this odd as I had used it on previous W202's without any issues, both with standard and uprated calipers (standard in those pics for clarification)

It was especially handy for bleeding the clutch where the slave is jammed up against the tunnel and there's not much room to open the nipple willy nilly

The result was a very much improved pedal and no sponginess afterwards. I have since changed all the calipers and had to re-bleed the system, again I was very happy with the result (although it helps that all discs and pads are new )

The key is to have a compressor with a massive tank (I have 4, 2 of which are attached to 200L tanks so I'm fine but a 100L tank will struggle with supplying air to the suction constantly even if you have a high CFM compressor)

TLDR: push though works on some cars better than others, hence I have both systems for when it doesn't

I have a 100litre compressor.
Around 8 bar when full.

I couldn't tell if all the air was out of the system when bleeding using the bleeder i have.
They feel good though but I'll definitely be checking them as soon as i get a chance.
I have a work van at the moment so haven't driven the car since last weekend but will hopefully have checked them by the weekend!

Cheensbo

So is the 2 person - pump / hold / open nipple method an acceptable practice then or is it better to use a bleeder?

All I've ever done is get a 2nd person to pump and hold etc- seems to work well but better the devil and all that.

Ded_Zebra

Picked this Civic up cheap recently off a work colleague. Hadn't been washed in a number of years so I spent the whole day on it. I'll let the pics do the talking.













Could really do with one or 2 more applications of auto wheels but it's good enough for the moment.



Here it is fully decontaminated. Washed, de-tared, de-ironed and clayed.



Polishing started. Everyone likes a 50:50



Reflection.



Headlights were restored. 1500 grit, 2500 grit, V32 on an orange pad, V38 on a green pad finally V38 on a white pad. (hex-logic pads BTW)



Interior grot.

Ded_Zebra

OldMrBrennan83

This post has been deleted.

Ded_Zebra

Patww79 wrote: »

This post has been deleted.

Not too much was done in the interior really. Just some all purpose cleaner and a cloth and a quick hoover to get the dog hair up!

JakeBell

Great job!! Looking spotless.

The aul shed could do with a lick of paint now.

CJhaughey

Removed the inlet manifold on my Accord 2.2 Ctdi, decarboned it.
There was a lot of sticky tarry stuff from the EGR valve, which was a real pain to try and remove, I'd be tempted to burn it out if it wasn't alloy.
Manually removed what I could get to and then 4-5 runs of oven cleaner which removed a lot but the best was the heavy duty degreaser run through the spray gun which seemed to take the most off.
If I had to do it again I'd get one from a breakers and do it over a week or two to simplify the job.
Soaking in the degreaser would shift the vast majority I think.

blackbox

CJhaughey wrote: »

Removed the inlet manifold on my Accord 2.2 Ctdi, decarboned it.
There was a lot of sticky tarry stuff from the EGR valve, which was a real pain to try and remove, I'd be tempted to burn it out if it wasn't alloy.
Manually removed what I could get to and then 4-5 runs of oven cleaner which removed a lot but the best was the heavy duty degreaser run through the spray gun which seemed to take the most off.
If I had to do it again I'd get one from a breakers and do it over a week or two to simplify the job.
Soaking in the degreaser would shift the vast majority I think.

Be careful using oven cleaner on alloy - it is made from sodium hydroxide which will dissolve aluminium if left in contact. Also dissolves paint. Should only be used on steel or ceramic. Degreaser should be OK.

eringobragh

Been dormant a while in the motoring end of things - bought a house 2 years ago so its consumed alot of my time, time to give the MR2 some much needed TLC.

Shes a workhorse in fairness and other than keeping on top of oil changes Ive had to doo feck all with her since. Valve cover has been leaking a few months now





Sparkplug 4 was pretty bad - i've been keeping an eye on them the last few months but used my car more in the past week then the rest of the year so expected it to be as bad





Sparkplug 1 leaking as well but not to same extreme



Massive amount of stuff has to come out to get to the cam cover - ACIS and Throttle Body need seperation



Might help when putting the jigsaw backtogether!





ACIS out

Cam cover was filthy, someething thats always annoyed me, I comtemplated painting it but I'm not too bothered on how the engine is dressed so I cleaned it up with some brake cleaner










Everything looking healthy, the screws were very loose so I suspect the actually seal hadnt failed

eringobragh

.................CONTD

All out - relatively straight forward following the docs - only step missing is the EGR step which was self explanatory




Dont you just love it when the glove rips



Parts required



Revision 5 gasket (other revisions can be slightly different) is cheaper from MrT than a blueprint copy! €27 all in the old one lasted 15 years so I'm quids in

11213-88460
11214-88460

Toyota recoomend "seal packer" the actually proper stuff in Toyota costs €70 - its recommend you dont use RTV

The Dirko Eiring 036.161 is an OE equivelant of the Toyota FPG packing

22271-88461

Throttle body gasket - worth change this while its out €1.50 from MrT

Looking a lot cleaner now!



on a side note is this the usual positioning for a timing belt?



While its out may as well change the airfilter (less than 15k on it and nearly 3 years old)



Things were going smoothley, too smoothely, was bolting on the ACIS cover and looked at the wrong step in the EG - instead of 8.5nm I thought it was 18nm and sure enough I shear one of them off - luckily enough I was able to remove it with an extractor easily enough



I ordered 6 new ones as I feel I probably compromised the other ones over torqing them - unfortunately I'm on the bicycle til Monday til Monday as MrT has none in stock

Part no for reference is 91511-40620 about a euro each from MrT

As it stands -

job seeker

Nice to see an update on the MR2 eringobragh. Top work as always

robbiew

Just added new boot & rear window spoiler, form aliexpress painted for 160 including shipping, only took 7 days to arrive from taiwan.

Great service i have to say..

http://i.imgur.com/yJiDMkF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LvSoaHX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oaJzqRh.jpg

blade1

robbiew wrote: »

Just added new boot & rear window spoiler, form aliexpress painted for 160 including shipping, only took 7 days to arrive from taiwan.

Great service i have to say..

http://i.imgur.com/yJiDMkF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LvSoaHX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oaJzqRh.jpg

Thats a lovely IS!!!!

robbiew

thanks man, i'm happy out with it.. would love just a little more power though,

Wibbs

eringobragh wrote: »

Been dormant a while in the motoring end of things - bought a house 2 years ago so its consumed alot of my time, time to give the MR2 some much needed TLC.

Shes a workhorse in fairness and other than keeping on top of oil changes Ive had to doo feck all with her since.

Doesn't surprise me one bit TBH E, Mister Twos are a great car on all sorts of levels(rust can be an issue like others from the Land of the Rising Sun of the time). Speaking of Japanese cars…

Did my biannual oil and oil filter and air filter change. Yep. I'm that anal about oil changes. The old oil and filters I could probably flog on eBay as barely used. :pac:

I also tackled the fuel filter. The lower nut on these can be a right whoer. Luckily a mate of mine was on hand to apply the eyes up to heaven, sarcasm and required torque(I was in danger of popping a blood vessel). Next on the list; gearbox/LSD oil and *offers up prayers* brake fluid. The valve clearances have never been done either. That would require someone who knows what the hell they're doing. Which handily excuses me of the task.



Yep, those rubber hoses are 18 years old and with 150,000 km's of starting and stopping in all sorts of weathers and temps. Still as flexible as an Olympic gymnast. I remember at the time journalists were often decrying the shiny black plastic interiors of Japanese cars, but by god those same plastics wore the years extremely well. From the era when Honda and the Japanese car industry in general built cars that could potentially outlast the Great Pyramid.

Also retrieved a screwdriver that had fallen down into the air resonator on a previous mission(black hole. Bottom right). *facepalm*

wotzgoingon

Wow Wibbs that engine bay is spotless.

Slideways

While I can't be 100% certain I'd be fairly confident there is hydraulic buckets in that car so valve clearance is not an issue and setting them would require cam out and lots of messing

eringobragh

job seeker wrote: »

Nice to see an update on the MR2 eringobragh. Top work as always

Cheers man

Wibbs wrote: »

Doesn't surprise me one bit TBH E, Mister Twos are a great car on all sorts of levels(rust can be an issue like others from the Land of the Rising Sun of the time). Speaking of Japanese cars…

Not on mine I've waxed all the problem areas - sills were clean thank god!

Fine looking engine there you could eat your dinner off that!

Toyotafanboi

First bit of DIY on the lawnmower today. The exhaust heatshield had decided it had had enough just days after I bought the car. It had rusted around 3 of the 4 mounting points and was swinging around having a great time slapping off of the back box over even the mildest of road suface imperfections.

You can see the corroded hole here.


I just took the bolts out and used bigger washers. It's not a life-long solution I dont think but if it lasts a few months i'll be happy. I probably should get a heat shield really.


It was easier to do this myself than to bring it back under warranty, they'd probably have done the same thing anyway.

I'm still a little bit in awe of how corroded this car is underneath. I don't mean to sound fanboi'ish but I don't think a similar mileage '07 Auris would have this much surface corrosion underneath. The rear subframe is very nasty looking, obviously the heat shield was rotting through, the rear disc shields have the same consistancy as a tayto crisps as you csn see the top is just flaking awsy. A lot more rust than I was expecting on an low mileage original irish car.

This photo doesn't really do it justice.

wotzgoingon

that is pretty rusted. Don't tell me that's the new civic?

Toyotafanboi

Yeah, like it's coming away in chunks. Shocked tbh, I thought rust went out with the 80's.

I had this car down as a long term ownership prospect but this has me thinking I should move on somewhat quickly. I'd say i'l splash out and get the disc shields and a heat shield and pop them on myself but the subframe itself is crispy as hell and the NCT can be very fussy about these things. I'l scrub it and hammerite it, but I don't know if it'l do much good.

That said, it had only done 2k between it's last NCT and when I bought it. And i've put 5k on it since then :pac:

Shame, because it's a really good car otherwise.

Wibbs

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

A lot more rust than I was expecting on an low mileage original irish car.

Sadly the increase after the big snows a few years back of copying the UK(as bloody usual :rolleyes:) and salting the roads in winter has much to do with it. Or at least that's my humble and observation. In my area of Dublin anyway, you may have better luck in other locales around Ireland.

I've seen it on my driveway gates of all things. Previously I'd have taken sandpaper and paint to them every ten years, now it's damn near every year they need a touch up(I live on a "even if it's a bit chilly, grit always" road). And I've had more surface corrosion on my car's undercarriage in the last three years than I've had in the previous ten.

IMHO underbody washing at summer's end and then a thorough underbody wax treatment as an annual thing is now a given in Ireland. We don't have it as bad as our neighbours in UK land, but it's not far off. Yet.

Toyotafanboi

Wibbs wrote: »

IMHO underbody washing at summer's end and then a thorough underbody wax treatment as an annual thing is now a given in Ireland. We don't have it as bad as our neighbours in UK land, but it's not far off. Yet.

I reckon thats the key. Any of my cars, I always make a point of getting underneath them with the power washer, particularly during the winter months.

Even if there is no additional protection applied, I always think at least if all the mud and solid debris is rinsed away regularly, there are less opportunities for moisture to be harboured and for rust to breed.

My Celica was 5 years older and over three times the mileage of this and it was far far cleaner underneath.

CJhaughey

I can recall Urea being spread on icy roads in 2010, that stuff is far more corrosive than Salt, who knows what is being used as deicing agent?

Special Circumstances

CJhaughey wrote: »

I can recall Urea being spread on icy roads in 2010, that stuff is far more corrosive than Salt, who knows what is being used as deicing agent?

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CJhaughey

Fitted a towbar to my Accord estate, took the best part of a couple of days with kids needing attention.
Hardest part was ripping all the interior of the boot to get to the wiring blocks to connect the wiring up.
The rear bumper is the simplest thing to remove ever, 6 screws and 2 body clips!

blackbox

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

First bit of DIY on the lawnmower today. The exhaust heatshield had decided it had had enough just days after I bought the car. It had rusted around 3 of the 4 mounting points and was swinging around having a great time slapping off of the back box over even the mildest of road suface imperfections.

You can see the corroded hole here.


I just took the bolts out and used bigger washers. It's not a life-long solution I dont think but if it lasts a few months i'll be happy. I probably should get a heat shield really.


It was easier to do this myself than to bring it back under warranty, they'd probably have done the same thing anyway.

I'm still a little bit in awe of how corroded this car is underneath. I don't mean to sound fanboi'ish but I don't think a similar mileage '07 Auris would have this much surface corrosion underneath. The rear subframe is very nasty looking, obviously the heat shield was rotting through, the rear disc shields have the same consistancy as a tayto crisps as you csn see the top is just flaking awsy. A lot more rust than I was expecting on an low mileage original irish car.

This photo doesn't really do it justice.

Yikes! It looks like it was kept beside the sea or was driven on a beach.

.