Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

Cheensbo

vintagevrs wrote: »

Aw jaysus, don't be telling me that!

Ah dont worry it was my own doing, I was particularly shíte at paying attention to instructions at the time, plus using almost pure water was the main reason it happened, twasnt the cars fault.... that time.

It was an e34, and must have been a friday evening car as it was a ball of shíte in every single aspect, only car i had that I didnt love in one way or another, and I still hate it :pac:

punisher5112

Anyone else think the car looks like a dog going for a widdle....

vintagevrs

And the coolant is done, heater blowing hot and all is well and tap a tapety under the bonnet. Worst part is, the coolant didn't look like it needed to be done ffs but when I was that far in I kept at it. Removing the splash guard was a pain as some of those bolts haven't moved in a long long time. Waiting on my diff clutch plates in the post this week, so that's next on the list.

nd

Today i removed and reinstalled an alternator on a 2008 Fiat Grande Punto 1.2.
Biggest gowl of a job ever. Fiat couldn't have placed it in a more awkward, inaccessible place if they tried. Despite it being a fairly small engine.

lafors

So eventually got to replace the spark plugs on my 645.
Got 8 Bosch Super Plus Platinum FGR7DQP+, it was between them and NGK BKR6EQUP and the Bosch were on the shelf do went for them.

The job is a bit of a pig but by no means impossible like made out on the internets! It took me 3 hours but that included making the kids dinner and putting them to bed too so you could do it in 1/2 hrs handy enough.

First things first, you need the right tools to do this or more accurately to take the ******* 2 plugs that are beside the firewall out.
You really only need 2 short socket extension bars (1 long one for the rest). A pivot headed socket wrench is helpful too but not essential.

So engine covers off, top has 4 screws and two sides just pull off.


Next remove the air box, 5 clips and 3 screws.


I removed the maf and put it in a ziplock bag, just didn't want it to get damaged by me removing the air box


Now with access to the passenger side remove the two metal holding brackets over the coils. It's a female torx for that. Two more on the driver side too.


Passenger side first, disconnect the 4 coil cables here.


Now access for the back coil is very tight and it can't be removed unless you move the cable for the positive terminal jump point (battery is in the boot btw). So the plastic nut is removed from the plastic bracket that holds the thick positive cable in place, move the bracket of the threaded peg and now there's space.


As I said above you'll need two short socket extensions to remove the back plug. First put the spark plug socket with 1 short extension attached into the hole, then attach the second short extension to that and remove the spark plug.

So here's the first 4 coils and plugs from the passenger side.


Coil from passenger side, I have a feeling these were never changed on the car? The is one different coil on the driver's side I must check up the part numbers for it.




Now to fit the new plugs, a dab of anti seize, tighten by hand + 1/8th of a turn with the socket.


Driver's side is the same except the back plug which is tight to get out too.
You need to remove the two nuts that holds the AC line in place. Then pull it off and push it down below the two threaded pegs.


This is the coil that was different to the rest, it has a full length rubber coating. It's a Bosch coil too but I've a feeling it's newer than the others.


Here's are 8 plugs


Job done, not as hard as it was made out to be.
Not sure what to do with the coils, I'm thinking of replacing them too.

joujoujou

lafors wrote: »

[...]
Not sure what to do with the coils, I'm thinking of replacing them too.

If it ain't broke - don't fix it!

lafors

joujoujou wrote: »

If it ain't broke - don't fix it!

Rough idle on startup and can cause a misfire if I don't keep the revs up.....only in the mornings too. Pox to diagnose, I have diagnostics but lets just say the BMW diagnostics are nowhere as easy to use as the VAG ones!
Coils are all working though. I pulled each individually with the engine running and they all check out as OK.

joujoujou

lafors wrote: »

Rough idle on startup and can cause a misfire if I don't keep the revs up [...]

Hopefully it'll be gone with new plugs?

Edit: Cold start issues can also be caused by faulty/dirty MAF sensor or throttle body.

lafors

joujoujou wrote: »

Hopefully it'll be gone with new plugs?

Edit: Cold start issues can also be caused by faulty/dirty MAF sensor or throttle body.

Haven't driven it today so don't know yet. I checked the MAF last night, another reason why I removed it. It looked very clean, could use contact cleaner on it I suppose. I guess I could plot the MAF via the diagnostics and see if it's behaving. Throttle body was working fine last time I checked, quick enough to check again though I suppose.

joujoujou

If I was you, I'd clean them both just for a peace of mind.

Edit: if random misfire would happen again, I'd check what cylinder(s) it's at (any OBD2 tester would tell you) and swap coils. If misfire would move to another cylinder(s) - replace coil(s). If same cylinder(s) affected - it may be a problem with compression (I hope I'm wrong).

lafors

Went at it there, took data with ignition on/engine off first.
Initial engine roughness readings showed Cyl 3 way out compared to the others.
Upon start rough idle then misfire and CEL. The error 274E & 2747 were for cylinder 3. Cyl 3 is the one with the different coil.



Cyl 3 was 0 221 504 464, when you check it up its for a 2004/05 Rolls Royce Phantom V12 6.7L :pac:
Bosch says it's incompatible with a BMW 645Ci.

Anyway I swapped Cyl 3 & 2 and checked the seating of the plugs while I was at it.
At the same time I checked the MAF, it was spotless, I gave it a good spray of contact cleaner too.

On restart it was still rough. Cyl 3 & 2 were fine now but Cyl 4 was all over the place. I got out and disconnected the harness for cyl 4 coil when running and engine tone or stuttering didn't stop, to me this would point to the coil.
I put it back on then stopped and restarted and again it misfired and CEL on 274E & 2744 (Cyl 4 Misfire).

I reseated the coil on cyl 4, it's the one against the firewall on drivers side.
Started again but same, misfire cyl 4.

This time I decided to just pull it and swap with Cyl 1.
Once I did this and started car was sitting OK at about 550rpm small bit of movement but way less than normal. I put the AC on and at max try unsettle the revs and see what it did but it didn't cause it a problem.

In fairness at this stage the engine was warming up so it may be that that made it suddenly behave.
I guess I'll find out in the morning! I've cleared the codes for now so if it does do it in the morning I'll let it stall and see if it's cyl 1 causing it, if so - Bad Coil, if not

Foxhole Norman

Got my BC Coilovers installed yesterday and replaced the cracked radiator, spent almost a quarter of a tank having the thing idle to bleed the new rad right :pac:

vintagevrs

At the weekend did a few bits and pieces to the baby BM. My left indicator was temperamental and I know as it's a BM it doesn't strictly need indicators but thought I best fix it as it was bugging me. Previous investigation traced the fault to the box the stalk goes into. It's not possible to take it apart, as if could I would say a dud connection in there was the cause. Got another stalk fitted at the weekend and now I can turn left without looking like an inconsiderate prick.

Rear suspension has been making an annoying noise at low speeds over rough ground or bumps. Numerous times on my back in under poking and prodding and I believe the shocks are at fault. There is a click/knock out of them when the shock changes direction. These are Bilstein shocks I fitted three months ago so not pleased but will get them swapped under warranty.

Also took out my front seats as each one was a bit 'loose', especially the passenger seat. Two screws at the base of each seat were loose and now all nice and tight again.

Next on the list is the carrier bearing on the prop shaft. When in there going to change the rubber doughnut between the prop and gearbox as well as the seal on the gearbox. Also, if the parts every arrive going to rebuild the diff. Seals and oil sitting waiting, but clutches have not arrived yet.

After that, I don't know if there is anything left to do? If only....

lafors

Well photobucket have just ruined this thread
Can't even edit my old posts to fix the images.

blade1

lafors wrote: »

Well photobucket have just ruined this thread
Can't even edit my old posts to fix the images.

Yeah, I've gone through a few image hosting sites lately and one after the other started acting up.

I'm using postimage at the moment and it working fine.
I just click on the link that says 'hotlink for forums' and and then just click paste when I post here.

You might be able to get some of your images if you take a screenshot of them in photobucket and then you can use postimage or anything else that works to upload them.

joujoujou

:P

Hal1

Ah black theme ftw .

Carpentry

Carbon fibre wrapped the gearknob surround, was in very poor stage. Cutting holes around gear displays was real pain, needed two attempts.
All in all I am happy with the result,

Carpentry

The look completed. Not to everyone taste, but I think looks better that grey, bland, cheap plastic.

Negatives - requires sh!t load of patience and fire proof fingers

Positives - car gained about 10 BHP

fancy pigeon

dgt wrote: »

today I did something to my car, part 2
Original thread here http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056307853



The £40 turbo....

dgt wrote: »

That'll do for now

4 years later... The Merc is back in the garage in the same spot :P I've done the exact same to another XUD


This engine uses a pump with a slightly smaller plunger than the last time but a better match, seeing as I was never anywhere near the max fuel capabilities of the previous pump... Unless I wanted to reek everything and speed up global warming this engine was also in a skip when I found it and I've put up near 30k trouble free miles with it within 6 months :cool:

Needs a clean and adjustments to the wastegate, then in it goes. Normally I faff about putting these engines in back anyway so won't take long until it's plumbed up and ready to fire up

Looking forward to being back behind the wheel of a D-Turbo once again

Noccy_Mondy

Subtle little addition to the golf. Compliments the other chrome bits inside.

11214

@Noccy_Mondy Where did you get those from?

wotzgoingon

11214 wrote: »

@Noccy_Mondy Where did you get those from?

ebay he posted a link in one of the threads a few days back.

Noccy_Mondy

11214 wrote: »

@Noccy_Mondy Where did you get those from?

Got them here, really fast delivery too. The same crowd have other inserts for different specs.

http://m.ebay.ie/itm/VW-Golf-5-V-Golf-6-VI-MK5-MK6-GT-seat-inserts-alloy-trim-cover-TDI-GTI-TSI-GTD-/401335732814?txnId=642140368027

lafors

Eventually got the correct brake discs for my car. Last ones they sent were 4mm too tall, turns out they were for a 745i not 645. The site I ordered from had and still has the wrong set selected for the 6 series.

Anyway got a set of Ferodo DDF1701C.


Got the front passenger side done in around 20 min without rushing.


Back of the caliper, dust caps removed and caliper pins out.


Caps & pins, longer one for the bottom.


My favorite caliper rewind tool


Nice lip on the discs


Another favorite, my caliper hanging tool


Old v New


Caliper back on and all together



Now the drivers side, there were no expletives left unturned for this one.
The disc screw was completely seized. tried penetrating oil + time but no use. Slightly wrung too so couldn't get a good grip, hammered a larger torx in and tried that but still no budging so out with the drill and the dremel.
eventually managed to cut a slot deep enough for my largest flat head.

At this stage I had removed the caliper and bracket so the disc was freewheeling. So a bit of cowboy engineering with a vice grips on the vented slots and the bar from the end of my jack and I was able to hold it in place.
Then got the big flat head in and another vice grips on the rest of the flat head sticking out and with a bit of persuasion it started to move.





Here's the state of the screw after I was done.



So got it all back together, new discs, braking nice and hard again and no squeaks

MetzgerMeister

Same brakes I had on the 335. Not too bad a job once the locating bolts are removed. The ones on the 330 are where you just take off a clip on the back and slide the pads out without having to remove the caliper at all.

fancy pigeon

Lidl jack handle?

Very same type smashed out my 2 front teeth, lovely to hear the teeth hitting the concrete

lafors

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Lidl jack handle?

Very same type smashed out my 2 front teeth, lovely to hear the teeth hitting the concrete

NO WAY! :eek: I think it's lidl, possibly aldi, I've 2 different ones.
How did that happen?

Cheensbo

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Lidl jack handle?

Very same type smashed out my 2 front teeth, lovely to hear the teeth hitting the concrete

I got it in the shoulder when i did it - they do not make a good lever.

The jack then collapsed next time i used it.

I really really hate those little jacks, they are deathtraps

eringobragh

lafors - bit late now but easiest way to shift those screws is a hand impact driver and a heavy hammer

Like so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSB9j2EhgoQ

http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/halfords-advanced--impact-driver-bits