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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)
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Not mine but the sister's Fiesta 1.25 litre. It has been losing coolant steadily for the last few months. I traced the leak to a crack at the side of the coolant expansion tank, which is a common problem on these. The crack expands as the engine heats up, which lets out a small amount of coolant.
First I sucked out the remaining coolant with a syringe oil pump just so I wouldn't make a mess when the hoses were off. Here is the old unit:
Unclipped the front hose, removed the 10mm bolt, and then pull the tank off the clip at the back.
Here you can see the crack that was causing the problem:
Finally you need to get a long nose pliers and undo the spring clamp from the bottom hose, and then wrangle that hose off the tank.
Re-fit the new unit in the reverse order, fill up with coolant, refit the old expansion tank cap and it was done.
The whole job only took about 10 minutes. I did run the car for a few minutes with the expansion cap off, but since I didn't drain the system, and only lost a small amount of coolant, it didn't really need to be bled.
The part is made by Vaico and was only €45 from Mick's Garage. All in all a satisfying job.0 -
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October purchase installed. Rusted exhaust pipe cut, new one welded. The same time passenger's side driveshaft replaced - massive rust under vibration damper, didn't take a gamble snap or not. New gear fluid (Redline MT90).
By the way - here's old heatshield:
Planned obsolescence ffs. :mad:0 -
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wotzgoingon wrote: »Does that not defeat the purpose of using an extractor?
@Jou not everything is cheap in Japan though.
A lot to be said about taking off a sump plug without oil spilling everywhere
....but I get your point. Thx 0 -
A nice simple task: the 607 had it's ignition barrel replaced at some stage meaning the keys didn't match! However, all is not lost. I have a fairly expensive spares car (can't type that with a straight face!) with matching locks... So swap the lot over!
So that's the glovebox, door lock and ignition barrel. The glovebox requires 2 pins at the bottom to remove, so no pictures of it's replacement. It takes longer to type this paragraph/glorified sentence than to remove and replace!
Next, the door lock. Like a lot of stuff with this car, to remove the lock requires the outer door handle off (lovely metal handles and all) as the lock actually goes in, opposed to out (headlamps are a prime example of this. They go into the engine bay instead of going forward to remove!). Access requires some dexterity
Just to change this crappy little nub!
Don't bother trying not to remove the barrel in situ; it's so fiddly you'll waste a lot of time you could have spent
Next: ignition barrel. Simple really, remove shrouds/pickup antenna, disconnect the plugs, remove the grub screw on top of the barrel, insert key to anything but position 0, press the tab and remove. The switch and cables also come with it, so carefully feed them around other wires and through the barrel
The replacement switch had a wonky switch, so that was swapped next!
It's held with a crappy metal clip with plastic shims
pry it out, move the key barrel back and the switch pulls straight up
Now do the same to the other switch. You can see the crappy clip to the left of the starter
Refit the lot, hooray! One key car :P
While I was there, I refurbished an ashtray I had spare. Yes, they are a nuisance to remove from in situ (just a lot to take off) but after cleaning this one up, lengthening the cables (the rear cigar lighter uses the same ground) and cleaning up the port, I now have a pair of working cigar lighters once again
Plenty more fun ahead with this car :cool:0 -
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Of course it's not. Hence I'm always shopping around. :cool:wotzgoingon wrote: »[...] not everything is cheap in Japan though.
The most expensive part of it is usually P&P from there, BTW. 0 -
fancy pigeon wrote: ».........
Now that is a proper workbench, broken sh*t everywhere, greasy, and bottles, cans and tubes of random stuff lying about:D:D:pac::pac::pac: 0 -
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Today I replaced the spark plugs. This isn't a trivial task on a transverse engined V6 as the rear three are very hard to access. The car is a Lexus RX400h. I studied a YouTube video before starting that showed how to do it without removing the wipers and front scuttle. No special tools needed - just my trusty Lidl socket set, some spanners and pliers and a big Allen key. Stubby spanners were useful.
Engine bay:
First remove covers:
Remove air filter housing:
Remove one of the front plugs to make sure the new ones match before we go any further:
Remove MAF and intake resonators:
Next remove throttle body but leave it connected as the hoses contain coolant. Then remove the mounting block behind throttle body. The bolts for the mounting block were very difficult to access for both removal and refitting.
Finally remove the intake plenum/manifold. This was handy enough but two studs had to be removed after their nuts were taken off to allow it to slide out. Also there are two hidden bolts on mounting brackets around the back.
At this point the coil packs and plugs were reasonably easy to access and remove. I had put a cloth over the intakes to prevent anything from falling in. I gave the throttle body a bit of a clean while I had access.
As the late great John Haines would say, reassembly is the reverse of dismantling.
When refitting the aforementioned mounting block for the throttle body, I was very worried about dropping a bolt as I was trying to reach around and align it with my fingertips so I invented this top tip using a length of nylon fishing line:
I tied a loop in the line a littler larger than the head of the bolt and looped the other end over a convenient hose. When I got the bolt started on the thread I was able to slip it over the head before tightening. As it happened I didn't drop it but I did have a scary moment when my 14mm socket came off the extension bar (I was able to reach it with a pointy pliers).
The whole job took me 4 hours (including several interruptions). I don't expect to do it again but if I did I reckon I'd do it in less than three.
I've still got pains in the backs of my knees from all the stretching over!0 -
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Noccy_Mondy wrote: »Today I turned this lacquer peel...
Into this. Still can just about make it out, but not unless you went looking for it. Massively improved. Don't have a DA, only a buffing head so it took ages.
How did you do it?0 -
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I fitted a rural parking sensor, not much use not having a hitch on a car designed to tow.
Genuine Honda was very easy to fit, made by Bosal and if you can make a plastic model you can follow the instructions.
Bumper cut was already marked on the bumper but I followed the template anyway to give radiused corners.
Factory loom just plugged into the existing loom the only thing I couldn't find was the parking sensor plug but theres a button to turn it off anyway.
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2 top mounts at the front of the car are gone, but that's for a different day when the parts arrive
This weeks issue was quite trivial, but annoying... Quite French
I would sit in traffic and move off. As the car would change gear it would lose all power until you release the accelerator and back to normal. The cruise control would also randomly switch off
Puzzled by all this, I began to look at bits and bobs such as the MAF (new, I'd bought it in October) faults in the traction control computer (left wheel speed sensor, on order but wouldn't cause this to happen) and other sensors in the engine bay (crank sensor/pump regulators/yaw etc)
One night in Navan, I copped the brake lights were on when this happened. Putting my foot under the brake pedal to push it up caused the car to resume full power and operate as normal. When I had daylight I whipped out the brake light switch (attachment, €14 from Peugeot, bought that new too!) and lengthened it a bit (adjustable, assuming it fits other models)
Problems are gone :cool:
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Typical French electrical weirdness.
I still have never owned a French car, primarily because of that kind of head melting stuff.
Oh I don't blame you, this car requires a lot of thought and patience at times, it's certainly not for the faint hearted!
But a lot of this cars elec issues (which weren't caused by butchery by the previous ape) have been with the likes of the gearbox and abs which is all... Bosch
Same with the 406, it's ABS module packed up, Bosch system0 -
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fancy pigeon wrote: »Oh I don't blame you, this car requires a lot of thought and patience at times, it's certainly not for the faint hearted!
But a lot of this cars elec issues (which weren't caused by butchery by the previous ape) have been with the likes of the gearbox and abs which is all... Bosch
Same with the 406, it's ABS module packed up, Bosch system
Bosch are only fair with electrics, but their FI systems are a lot better than Delphi that much I do know.
I bought Bosch brake pads once and wondered why they were so dusty, dug the box out of the rubbish and they were Made in India, not saying all their stuff is made on the sub-continent but I'd wager a fair share of it is.0 -
Foxhole Norman wrote: »Serviced the car Saturday evening, 5W-40 oil change with Mann filter, Mann Pollen Filters changed, new Expansion tank and cap to fix a coolant leak and coolant changed. Front discs and pads up next once I get the seized spacers off!
What lift is that?0 -
Took the back half of the exhaust off. Plan is to bodge it back together! Just to make 1 journey to somewhere i can fit a proper exhaust. Also ran a starter cable from the engine bay to the boot. Going to move the battery to the back at some stage. Not sure exactly im going to wire it up and where to sit the battery yet but the awkward job is done.
Lovely day for it.0 -
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