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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,042 ✭✭✭Bpmull


    advertsfox wrote: »
    Fuel sender finally replaced in the C5 (under rear seat access, 20 minute job for my mechanic) and the car now starts lovely and quick AKA normally :)

    Two things I've learned since getting this sorted...

    * Dealers can be right pricks to deal with, regardless of warranty.
    * Dodgy / washed diesel can really mess your engine up.

    PS: Don't buy diesel for the Ross Station, Old Dunshaughlin to Navan Road (parallel to M3).

    Was the sender the problem in the end? Are they expensive or did you get one from a scrap car?


  • Registered Users Posts: 26,281 ✭✭✭✭Eric Cartman


    Got Myself some new bits for the e38

    277901.jpg
    Comfort Seats (Heated )

    Rear Power Heated seats.

    Cnv0024-1.jpg
    rear phone / MID / seat / blind controls

    chromeline wood handles and rear wood lamps
    GJc6Bl.jpg

    leather and wood B pillars

    rear climate control
    DSC05684.jpg

    (only the first is my photo, the rest are stolen)

    have almost everything I need for the e38 project to be complete


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    I didn't really do that much I suppose, but did have a fiddle around with the car yesterday, it's a 1996 Pug 406 19. td I bought about 2 months ago. Got it for 750 and had to fix a few problems a couple of weeks ago that I didn't spot... bushings, rocker cover seal, driver door needed a good bending as there was a loud whistle above 70, and the fuel filler neck was dodgy, culminating in me being stuck at Topaz for about 20 minutes one time because the bloody fuel pump wouldn't come out of the car! Had a big incident a few weeks ago which I thought was caused by the turbo, dgt kindly supplied me with a replacement, big thanks for that, legend of a guy! Mech has all but ruled out the turbo after a thorough inspection, might be an injector problem. I'll bring a mechanic next time :o

    Inside of windscreen and windows are really badly misting in the mornings, need to look further into this, had a look at door seals etc. but nothing obvious. Need to get a new pollen filter too.
    Fitted new flat blade wipers as the old ones looked like they were the original wipers that came on the car! :eek:
    Fixed an electric window, switch was dodgy, turns out the plastic casing had cracked, allowing the actual button that you push to move downwards when pushed, resulting in the micro switch underneath not being triggered. Bit of superglue sorted it nicely. 2 windows still faulty. One has broken cables in the door and the other could be the regulator, it behaves very erratically!

    Rear demister switch also not working, and the bulb in the time clock is missing altogether. Pulled apart the demister switch completely as I couldn't see anything obvious when I removed it from the console. Spent a good hour at it and I came to the conclusion that the micro switch was fried. There were mechanical parts broken but I swapped them out with parts from another switch and no joy. Off to ebay for that one.

    Time clock was another fruitless exploit unfortunately. I have fitted an aftermarket radio to the car, so the MFD is useless now. I pulled a working bulb out of the MFD to see if it would fit only to realise the part you put the bulb into the time clock was also gone. Bulb was wrong size too and therefore probably wrong voltage/ampage. That didn't stop me trying though! Filed down the sides of the bulb so I could fit it behind the clock's screen, jury rigged a wiring harness and connected up the bulb and glued it in place so I could reassemble and test it. Plugged it in and nothing. Ebay again!

    Electric mirrors switch busted too, pulled it apart, nothing obvious. guess where I'm buying a new one :D

    Had to buy a new gear knob too as the current one is a wreck, the plastic gear map has come out and edges of the circle around it are all jagged and broken, almost painful to change gears quickly.

    I destroyed my undertray backing a trailer into the garden, a hedge branch tore most of it off. Stitched it up good and proper!
    [IMG]http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k345/Lachlan Angry Scooter/Peugeot%20406/IMG_02601.jpg[/IMG]

    My main work was to do with the air intake pipe though. Its location is a bit of a design flaw and there are people all over the net who say their 406 has been hydrolocked from driving through very shallow water or even large puddles. Seeing my area is constantly getting floods during winter I thought I'd better see to this sooner rather than later! A quick fix is to just pull the pipe off the air filter till you're past the water but I don't want to have to keep doing this and also drawing hot air from the engine bay into the engine.

    The pipe currently runs from the bottom of the air filter downwards, with a 90 degree bend towards the passenger side of the car. It runs from there into the left front wheel arch.

    This red line is where I'm thinking of running the new pipe. I found a gap down the side of the radiator leading to the grille. You can see the gap in the 2nd photo, there's a small bit of light in the middle.
    [IMG]http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k345/Lachlan Angry Scooter/Peugeot%20406/IMG_02492.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k345/Lachlan Angry Scooter/Peugeot%20406/IMG_02561.jpg[/IMG]

    The standard air pipe is 7" wide, and a pipe that big won't fit, so I'm thinking of 3 or 4 sections of 4" pipe or 2 5" pipes, joining them together inside the engine bay once they're clear of the rad.

    The idea is that the open end of the pipes are much higher up than the standard intake. I'm not sure whether plastic or rubber piping would stand up better to heat fluctuations from being so close to the rad, but I'm guessing rubber seeing as the pipes coming out of the rad are rubber.

    the second problem is that rain water could very easily come through the grille and into the pipes if im driving at speed. The only thing I can think of to solve that would be to bend the ends of the pipes back on themselves using a cable tie, so the open part of the pipes will be facing the front of the rad. Id say the airflow would be good enough when I'm moving that the pipes will still draw cold air in. They might take in warm air at idle but that makes no difference!

    Good or bad idea? :confused:

    Glad the turbo worked out for you :D what's the problem though, rough running?

    Quite surprised to see a 96 one with an ECU! :confused:

    Clock bulb is simple to replace, but an arse to get to. Off with the fascia and speedo, unclip it from the inside. Same bulbs as the dash bulbs :)

    You could take a leaf from my book, use another airbox up high and turn it the other way. Works surprisingly well, last few weeks have been a good test
    Image881.jpg

    Since then I've modified the breather so it's in the pipework :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    car park **** got me bad the other week. pretty disgusted with it, must be easy 3-4 inches tall.

    2l51.jpg
    pj2m.jpg
    4f32.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,309 ✭✭✭✭wotzgoingon


    car park **** got me bad the other week. pretty disgusted with it, must be easy 3-4 inches tall.

    2l51.jpg
    pj2m.jpg
    4f32.jpg

    That's annoying alright. Hard to see it in the pics, as your car is shining so much all I see is reflection.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    So today I learned some very valuable lessons

    How to spray trims, and how not to spray center consoles!

    So without further adooo :P

    But what I really wanted to get done today was the center console, I had planned on doing it in matt black, so here's how I went about it

    Started off by keying the surface with 600 grit, and then 800 grit sandpaper

    28c3rck.jpg

    Then after this I cleaned it, just used white spirits and a cloth, hung it up to dry, and ran a heat gun over it to get rid of the damp

    So with the first layer of primer

    119xl38.jpg

    The second

    29p7u6p.jpg

    And dried!

    29p7u6p.jpg


    Good and dry! So on with the first coat of matt black, then sh1t hit the fan
    As soon as it began to dry this began to happen :o

    w1e1qc.jpg

    34sfo6q.jpg

    Massive chemical reaction with something either on the primer, the surface or the conditions in the place
    Not fun at all :(

    So, I had to strip the paint off in an effort to repair it somewhat, again start with 600 grit, then 800 and lastly 1200, sadly it didn't work :(

    fxys75.jpg

    2whi9lk.jpg

    viclsk.jpg

    2a6nkld.jpg

    So the plan is to strip it, and start again! bit of a steep learning curve but we all have to start somewhere :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,699 ✭✭✭advertsfox


    Bpmull wrote: »
    Was the sender the problem in the end? Are they expensive or did you get one from a scrap car?
    Yes the sender was the issue, sourced one off eBay (identical model number, down as a Peugeot 307 fuel sender) for €40 with shipping from a low mileage scrapper and she's all working lovely now :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭ldxo15wus6fpgm


    dgt wrote: »
    Glad the turbo worked out for you :D what's the problem though, rough running?

    Quite surprised to see a 96 one with an ECU! :confused:

    Clock bulb is simple to replace, but an arse to get to. Off with the fascia and speedo, unclip it from the inside. Same bulbs as the dash bulbs :)

    You could take a leaf from my book, use another airbox up high and turn it the other way. Works surprisingly well, last few weeks have been a good test

    Since then I've modified the breather so it's in the pipework :)

    Problem hasn't really shown itself since. What happened was after a 4 hour drive the engine revved its nuts off for a few seconds making a huge thick cloud of black smoke and soot left along the road. I had just clutched so didn't rocket forward into the guy in front luckily. After the revving stopped there was a stream of blue smoke and I quickly shut the engine off. Started it up again after a quick look under the bonnet and there was more blue smoke for maybe 5-10 minutes.
    I thought the turbo had leaked a load of oil into the engine resulting in the revving and then was steadily streaming more in. Since then no major symptoms, bar some white smoke and bad spluttering for a few seconds when cold starting but that was happening beforehand!

    To be honest the mech isn't sure what caused it, but no sign of any problems with the turbo so that's basically ruled it out. She's running fine since then, maybe a tiny drop in power (could be in my head though) but haven't gone for a long drive since it happened. He mentioned the injectors when we were talking but I had to rush to work, going to hand it over during the week if I can and he can have a fiddle around. Hopefully it was just a freak incident but my luck is never that good!

    Looks good, might try that!
    What's the red cable passing in front of your fuel filter if you don't mind me asking??


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,193 ✭✭✭Cleveland Hot Pocket


    car park **** got me bad the other week. pretty disgusted with it, must be easy 3-4 inches tall.



    Yeah it is car park **** like that that has turned me into a car park wanker of a different sort, take up two spaces now to avoid dings.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Problem hasn't really shown itself since. What happened was after a 4 hour drive the engine revved its nuts off for a few seconds making a huge thick cloud of black smoke and soot left along the road. I had just clutched so didn't rocket forward into the guy in front luckily. After the revving stopped there was a stream of blue smoke and I quickly shut the engine off. Started it up again after a quick look under the bonnet and there was more blue smoke for maybe 5-10 minutes.
    I thought the turbo had leaked a load of oil into the engine resulting in the revving and then was steadily streaming more in. Since then no major symptoms, bar some white smoke and bad spluttering for a few seconds when cold starting but that was happening beforehand!

    To be honest the mech isn't sure what caused it, but no sign of any problems with the turbo so that's basically ruled it out. She's running fine since then, maybe a tiny drop in power (could be in my head though) but haven't gone for a long drive since it happened. He mentioned the injectors when we were talking but I had to rush to work, going to hand it over during the week if I can and he can have a fiddle around. Hopefully it was just a freak incident but my luck is never that good!

    Looks good, might try that!
    What's the red cable passing in front of your fuel filter if you don't mind me asking??

    That sounds like it was over filled with oil and the engine got a taste of it. Whip off the cooler pipes and see if there's excess amounts of oil in them (there will be a bit anyway due to the breather and all that)

    Could also be from when it last blew the oil seals, there could have been a bit left over in the bottom of the intercooler and sucked it in....

    The red cable is my way of bypassing the immobiliser. Also my way of immobilising the car fully once disconnected ;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    So just a bit of an update

    Stripped the paint off today, bit of work to be done but sure, it'l give me something to do

    Anyways, used Nitro Mors to strip it off, pretty straight forward so here's the first layer

    aauhx0.jpg

    24e2nnc.jpg

    148ksus.jpg

    Once the paint blisters up, stick on another layer, wait 40 minutes and scrape it off and you end up with something like this

    200pnwk.jpg

    Sanded it with 240 grit and you get this

    66dzya.jpg

    f28sjq.jpg

    The plan is to work it up to 1200 grit, so work in progress!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Isolator is needed there Mr Pickles ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    dgt wrote: »
    Isolator is needed there Mr Pickles ;)

    Well I won't be doing much now, just sanding, I'm flat broke again :(

    So when I get the time, and moneh I'll get round to that, mr dgt ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Use some isopropanol wipes before painting. I suppose you could always flock or wrap it :P.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,607 ✭✭✭toastedpickles


    Hal1 wrote: »
    Use some isopropanol wipes before painting. I suppose you could always flock or wrap it :P.

    Oh i plan on!

    As for wrapping and flocking, nooooo, I want to learn how to do a proper spray job. might not be great but still it'l be a start


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    New stereo in the car. After a lot of screwing around I finally got it to all sit in. However I still need to put the car back together!

    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_900587_langId_-1_categoryId_212600

    I'll put up some pics tomorrow, but so far it seems awesome. Really liking it. It's a pitty the app is rather poor for it. And quite buggy but I'll have to make do.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Gave the car a quick wash with AG shampoo and a thorough going over and clean under the arches etc. being the mad hatter i am, 2 coats of jetseal straight onto the paint and glass with no prepwork other than drying the car :pac:. Meguiars endurance gel on the tyres. looks great imo, but that might just be because its clean :)

    fitted my c-pillar brace and rear strut tower brace too.

    zyd3.jpgUploaded with ImageShack.com
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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    k7xz.jpg[/URL]Uploaded with ImageShack.com
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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Just a minor exhaust adjustment.... Welding up a clamp :)

    Mmmmm.... Felt spec boot :pac:
    Image1063.jpg

    The longest part was setting it all up. I needed another jack to get the jack in to jack the car (Yo dawg, we heard you like jacks..... :pac:)
    Image1064.jpg

    Time for a test. As it's a coat stand what better way to test than.... :p
    Image1065.jpg

    Also checked the 535i exhaust, shall be a pig to re-jig it.... And put my back out installing a clutch cable :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,885 ✭✭✭DuckSlice


    Changed the ****ty standard windscreen washers for insignia ones on my astra h. They are a lot better and only 15 euro off eBay. But of a pain to fit tho. You have to squeeze your hand in underneath the windscreen tray.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,193 ✭✭✭Cleveland Hot Pocket


    You should leave that attached DGT
    Or better still, manouver it so it curves upwards at a 90' angle - and put one of the exhaust caps on the top (don't know what it is actually called, the one that flips open like on a train...)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,792 ✭✭✭rizzee


    @TFB lovely Glanza you have there and I don't usually like them myself! Black cars are a pain in the arse to keep clean eh?! Good job!


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    picked up this tanabe chassis brace for the glanza :) starlet junk is really coming down in price from what it was 2-3 years ago. supply and demand may have finally shifted the wrong way as there are probably more broken now than there is still on the road.

    2013-10-29145127_zps119f90d0.jpg

    edit : note to self; must stay off of DoneDeal and TOC classified section. spent wayyyy too much lately.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Not as bad as Darragh, he's just bought about €600 worth of extras for his GT. :eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    have been following his progress, its a lovely gt in fairness to him he's treating it very well, probably one of my favourite cars on TOC. mk1 gt's are gone so so rare now and he has the full mk1 zebra interior and all the mk1 exterior (hasn't converted it to a quadlight like everyone else) its a real credit to him.

    i've handy spend 600 on the glanza in the last 3 months, probably more. still needs front pads and 2 tyres shortly :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    It's a lovely little thing, you should annoy him for a go of it, it should be on the road pretty soon now. :)
    Be class to get a picture of the both of your cars, old and new both nice and original... On the outside anyway. :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,792 ✭✭✭rizzee


    Gave the car a hoover, topped up fluids, tyres done, the basics. Will be getting a good wash in the morning!

    Fixed the after market alarm that was in the car when bought, bit of a wiring problem but was easy enough in the end!

    Quick video, going to get induction kit and possibly a straight through pipe for more performance and a bit of a sporty sound... any suggestions?

    Tilt your head ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    rizzee wrote: »
    Gave the car a hoover, topped up fluids, tyres done, the basics. Will be getting a good wash in the morning!

    Fixed the after market alarm that was in the car when bought, bit of a wiring problem but was easy enough in the end!

    Quick video, going to get induction kit and possibly a straight through pipe for more performance and a bit of a sporty sound... any suggestions?

    Tilt your head ;)

    You can rotate vids on youtube ;)

    Induction kits are usually ****, either go mystery pipe or go custom.... ;)



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,792 ✭✭✭rizzee


    How do I rotate? First video i've uploaded to youtube!! Hmmm take off the original box, stick on the bendy washing dryer tubes ( :D ) with a 20 quid universal air filter at the end? Sorted :p


    Edit - got the rotation sorted it's saving atm :)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    rizzee wrote: »
    How do I rotate? First video i've uploaded to youtube!! Hmmm take off the original box, stick on the bendy washing dryer tubes ( :D ) with a 20 quid universal air filter at the end? Sorted :p

    Video manager is where you rotate them :D

    Sporting had a big bendy pipe from another car that fitted it perfectly, just needed extending at the end and a standard cotton filter. The van used a Ducato exhaust with a 12v hose, reducer and 85 ELX pipework, also with cotton filter.... The way I see it is why pay for a very sought after and expensive gsr when one can make something that is far cheaper and does the job better ;) :cool:


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