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sheared studs

  • 07-08-2013 5:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭


    hey all - was taking the downpipes off my cbr 250 earlier and the head on one of the studs sheared off. havent got any prior experience of this - anybody have any tips on how to remove the remaining bit?

    had it all doused in WD40 since last night and thought it would be plain sailing. any advice welcome!


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,396 ✭✭✭✭kaimera


    'The Don' should be along to tell you how **** that is to happen!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    sonic85 wrote: »
    hey all - was taking the downpipes off my cbr 250 earlier and the head on one of the studs sheared off. havent got any prior experience of this - anybody have any tips on how to remove the remaining bit?

    had it all doused in WD40 since last night and thought it would be plain sailing. any advice welcome!
    Get the pipe off so you can get at the stud without being cramped.

    If there is enough metal left to get a nut onto the stud and weld it on with an arc welder that would be a good start.
    Once the nut has been welded and is still red hot use a tight fitting socket to remove it, the heat should allow it to back out, go easy and don't snap the rest off or you'll have to use the methods below.
    If it moves use small back and forth movements to loosen it.

    If its sheared off level with the surrounding metal you have less options Get it drilled out with successively larger drills until it will back out.
    Or use a small carbide ball head bit in a grinding tool and grind it out.
    Or find a place that does EDM machining and get them to remove it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭sonic85


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Get the pipe off so you can get at the stud without being cramped.

    If there is enough metal left to get a nut onto the stud and weld it on with an arc welder that would be a good start.
    Once the nut has been welded and is still red hot use a tight fitting socket to remove it, the heat should allow it to back out, go easy and don't snap the rest off or you'll have to use the methods below.
    If it moves use small back and forth movements to loosen it.

    have the pipe off - the top of the stud just snapped off so there is some metal left. will try this method and see what happens!

    what about a stud extractor? are they any good?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    sonic85 wrote: »
    have the pipe off - the top of the stud just snapped off so there is some metal left. will try this method and see what happens!

    what about a stud extractor? are they any good?
    You mean the ones that go into a hole or the type that grips on to the shaft of a stud?
    I don't think either type will shift that TBH, You need heat lots of it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,306 ✭✭✭sonic85


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    You mean the ones that go into a hole or the type that grips on to the shaft of a stud?
    I don't think either type will shift that TBH, You need heat lots of it.

    the type that grips the shaft of the stud. ill give your suggestion a go first anyway and see how I go! thanks for the advice - appreciate it


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Bit of copper grease on the existing and new studs when being screwed back on and in is allways a good thing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 416 ✭✭scudster


    Have a similar job looming on my yoke and I'm not looking forward to it!


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