924 question from a long time lurker.

superfly35

So Collin, did you bought that black 924 from Matt ?

I heard the car was on the way to Dublin.

dcollins

Yeah, I did, its going grand so far-I just have had no time to post because of busy week- will put up some info about the big trip soon!

cheers,
Dan

Dades

Great stuff - congrats! Get some pics up and follow on with your trip info.

---

Also, I installed a rear 3-point seat belt into my 924 last weekend. If anyone's interested I took some pics and can post them in a separate thread. I've seen a lot of people asking online about the process.

Kenny Logins

Dades wrote: »

Great stuff - congrats! Get some pics up and follow on with your trip info.

---

Also, I installed a rear 3-point seat belt into my 924 last weekend. If anyone's interested I took some pics and can post them in a separate thread. I've seen a lot of people asking online about the process.

Do. I've Googled for that many times, and I'm sure others will too.

unkel

Dades wrote: »

I installed a rear 3-point seat belt into my 924 last weekend. If anyone's interested I took some pics and can post them in a separate thread.

Please do!

A classic car becomes a lot more practical if you can (relatively) safely transport your children in it

Dades

Okay - done!

superfly35

Glad you got sorted!!
We are going to organise a boards 924 drive/meeting or something like that.

dcollins

hello fellow 924 drivers! BIG BIG thanks to you guys for your help and advice.

any recommendation on what oil to use in 'em? is a 20w50 mineral for classics the way to go. someone said to me switching to synthetic could dissolve mineral deposits inside the engine and cause me **** i don't need...
0w40? 50?
5w, 10w? I haven't a barney!

Also, have any of ye had an alarm fitted? should i up rate my battery if i do?

Used the two buckets and the 3 recommended stages of autoglym today. looking lovely.

Turtle wax Black in a flash is amazing for that exterior plastic. made the door handle seals and window seals look great. definitely the most impressive effect of all the products. has anyone had any experience using some kind of rubber moistuizer for the door /sun roof seals. nothing is leaking but better that i moisturize them if i can to prevent further degredation.

Photos to follow soon.
Dan

Kenny Logins

I'd stick with the heavier oils, 20W50 or 15w50.

Seweryn

dcollins wrote: »

hello fellow 924 drivers! BIG BIG thanks to you guys for your help and advice.

any recommendation on what oil to use in 'em? is a 20w50 mineral for classics the way to go. someone said to me switching to synthetic could dissolve mineral deposits inside the engine and cause me **** i don't need...
0w40? 50?
5w, 10w? I haven't a barney!

Hi Dan,

I would not put 20W50 oil. It is for old machines used in hot climate. Porsche actually recommend fully synthetic oils for all their cars, new and old models.
But for a 924 I would put at least 10W40 or 5W40 (this was the oil I used in my 924) specified for petrol engines.

Kenny Logins

That's the funny thing about oil, everybody will swear by their own brand and viscosity etc.



Haynes manual says:

Recommended lubricants and fluids
Engine - Heavy duty oils of SD or SE specification

Summer: SAE 30 weight
Winter: SAE 20 weight
For continuous operation between -15° and 0°C (0° and 32°F):

SAE 20 W 20 weight
For continuous operation below -15°C (0°F): SAE 10 weight

Seweryn

Kenny Logins wrote: »

That's the funny thing about oil, everybody will swear by their own brand and viscosity etc.

Haynes manual says:

Recommended lubricants and fluids
Engine - Heavy duty oils of SD or SE specification

Summer: SAE 30 weight
Winter: SAE 20 weight
For continuous operation between -15° and 0°C (0° and 32°F):

SAE 20 W 20 weight
For continuous operation below -15°C (0°F): SAE 10 weight

The above SAE specifications are for single season oils, except the 20W20. There are no oils of that specifications available today, except say SAE 30, which is used for lawnmowers during summer season.

Regarding the 20W50 engine oil, its viscosity is way too high for this climate. It would be OK in Africa or in hot summer in Europe, but here it only increases fuel consumption and engine wear at cold starts. Any 5W40 or 10W40 is much more adequate .

superfly35

I would go for 10w40 semi synthetic it will be fine. I use only synthetic in the turbo just because it gets hotter.

Kenny Logins

Turns out I was using 15w40 all along (in my E24 and 924, and I still have 10 litres of it stored here), no idea where the 20W50 notion came from...

Dades

I've never seen a conclusive answer to the oil question, either!

Pretty sure I've used a few of the above at different stages. I'd lean toward the lighter synth stuff rather than the typical classic stuff.

Pics, Dan!

dcollins

Used the triple autoglym. shampoo, the deep shine, and the paint seal.
Brake dust remover for the alloys, cream for the leather, and the best of all was the black in a flash for the exterior plastic.

Dades

Wow - looks fab. Congrats.

I wish you'd come around and do mine!

dcollins

Any idea where to get a good shifter boot and rubber underthing. anyone ever changed theirs. its about the only worn bit on this car. also im pretty sure it has a thermostat to deal with the warm start issue.

I found this in relation to the oil(see pic below), in the original manual. this car came with original tools/ leather sun panel cover/ boot cover/ and full manual/service history reciept file. so good.

Kenny Logins

Looks like a really nice example. Well done.

Agricola

Very nice. Jealous of that paintwork!

galwaytt

dcollins wrote: »

Used the triple autoglym. shampoo, the deep shine, and the paint seal.
Brake dust remover for the alloys, cream for the leather, and the best of all was the black in a flash for the exterior plastic.

Jeebus that's lovely. Fair play to you for getting - and keeping it! - that way.

salysol

dcollins wrote: »

Any idea where to get a good shifter boot and rubber underthing. anyone ever changed theirs. its about the only worn bit on this car. also im pretty sure it has a thermostat to deal with the warm start issue.

I found this in relation to the oil(see pic below), in the original manual. this car came with original tools/ leather sun panel cover/ boot cover/ and full manual/service history reciept file. so good.

The thermostat you are referring to , is called a Thermo time switch, it sits at the back of the head next to the bulk head ,it is a major pain to remove + refit a new one if that is you can find a new one ? but in saying that it is possible that the problem lies in the fuel accumulater, which sustains the fuel pressure going to the fuel distribution unit, if this unit is faulty you will find it near impossible to start the car.
There are a lot of possibilities relating to the K-Jetronic mechical injection,another possibility is that the rubber seal on the injectors are perished and blowing air out which would restrict the flow of fuel into the cylinders,it's a process of elimination.
as for the oil i wouldn't recommend fully synthetic,the most stable year round grade for the 924 is sae40 the reason for this grade is due to the very hot temperature the 924 engine runs at ,this oil will minimise wear and tear,it's an excellent oil for cold or warm starting, the choice is yours.
Hope you enjoy the car,they are great cars to drive,but be very carefull on wet or icy surfaces,they are unforgiving in those conditions.

Seweryn

salysol wrote: »

as for the oil i wouldn't recommend fully synthetic,the most stable year round grade for the 924 is sae40 the reason for this grade is due to the very hot temperature the 924 engine runs at ,this oil will minimise wear and tear,it's an excellent oil for cold or warm starting, the choice is yours.

SAE 40 is very high viscosity oil, only to be use in hot summer (single grade oil). Not good for every day driving and causing a lot of wear every time you start a cold engine, as it is as thick as jelly when temp. goes down to single figures.
BTW, not sure if you can buy that oil anywhere, as even cheap mineral base oils are multi grade these days, i.e 15W40, 10W30, etc.

salysol

Seweryn wrote: »

SAE 40 is very high viscosity oil, only to be use in hot summer (single grade oil). Not good for every day driving and causing a lot of wear every time you start a cold engine, as it is as thick as jelly when temp. goes down to single figures.
BTW, not sure if you can buy that oil anywhere, as even cheap mineral base oils are multi grade these days, i.e 15W40, 10W30, etc.

I am aware of it being a high viscosity,but i have tried numerous oils in a number of my porsche and none are as good as the sae40, i find it to be great for my engine,but as i said it's each individuals choice,i service my car every 1k and have been doing so with the same engine for the last 5 years and the engine is as good as when i fitted it in back then , so it works for me, + i drive the stones out of it on a daily basis,not a rattle or puff of smoke in site,in my book the oil suits the engine ?

dcollins

Hi Guys,

In this rain and cold its staying nice and dry inside and starting on the button! very happy :-)
Can anyone recommend somewhere in dublin to get a quote on getting a bit of work done, any good mechanics for classics?
Nothing major. one or two niggly bits as well as I'm looking for someone experienced to tell me where my money might be be best spent, I budgeted for a bit of work and would like to know what will be best for the car byond a good servicing.

I don't know what will be best for ensuring smoothest driving and operation- replacing bushings or suspension bits? brake bits? replacing all the other fluids? alignment? paying out the nose for having a top end rebuild? has anyone replaced bits and pieces and thought jaysus that made a great difference?

Its just had belts done and great tyres all round?

thanks for all your time guys.

Kenny Logins

Mine was a bit clunky when accelerating/decelerating. I didn't investigate it before selling on, but the current owner tells me the tranny mounts are FUBAR. I'd look at the engine mounts too, the one closest to the exhaust manifold, I am told, can dry out and break up.

Changing these (if required) would make a big difference I'd imagine.

superfly35

@dcollins, it is a bit of a vague question regarding the work you need.
Could describe either your problem or what you will what to be done ? and remember if it is not broken don't fix it.

If the engine amount are shot, the car will probably vibrate at idle. They are NLA but there are existing replacement.

dcollins

The work is small as said above, to be specific- some minor internal fracturing in a rear light cover, rear cv joint boot replacement, evaluating if any bushings need replacing. C'est tout. separately to a mechanic, i think id love to pay for someone with loads of experience to give it a going over with t-cut on an orbital and then to give it a polish. not that it needs it tbh, but vanity eh!

Dades

How's the condensation in this weather, dcollins? Do you keep her in a garage?

My biggest gripe with owning old cars (outside) is the condensation build up on the windows during the colder months. I keep kitchen roll in the car so I don't have to wait 10 mins for the heater to do its job!

dcollins

hi Dades,
Yeah there can be a fair amount of condensation in the back window alright. I have an auld teatowel ready for those evenings. have you found anything to help with that in the winter months?

I am buying a cover but its hard to find a highly recommended one- so many of them aren't waterproof. and the 924 seems to be somewehere between the small and medium size on the covers because of its length but narrowness.

@dades- have you canged any bits and pieces and after the fact found an increase in smoothness in the ride? its not bad at all but i just assume over the years bushings and mounts and fluids go. so if i can make it run even nicer than it does that would be super. I'm just trying to figure where i would best spend whats left of my budget...

Have you used anyone in particular for work or found replacing disks/pads/shoes makes a big improvement to your braking?

Once or twice the clock has lost a bit of time too. but otherwise i can't fault her at all. there is no vibration at idle, nor at speed but a little as im moving up third. at least compared to my nissan :-)