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aritech c350 low battery after changing

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  • 08-09-2013 12:49pm
    #1
    brenster75
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭


    Hi I have replaced my spent 3 amp battery with a 3.5 amp as recommended by hardware shop. Alarm doesn't set.. says code accepted then system disarmed. I have pulled the mains wire out and the low battery warning disappears for a while but re appears soon after. Any ideas?


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    #2
    oscarBravo
    Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 28,807 Mod ✭✭✭✭oscarBravo


    Moved from Open Source.


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    #3
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Sounds like the battery is not charging?
    Have you checked the battery fuse & the voltage on the battery leads with the battery disconnected?


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    #4
    brenster75
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭brenster75


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Sounds like the battery is not charging?
    Have you checked the battery fuse & the voltage on the battery leads with the battery disconnected?

    Thanks for that. I may admit I am not sure how too. I have switched main fuse off with and without the battery connected. Cannot see battery fuse on the alarm board. Only sensors. Do I need an electrician to check the voltage.


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    #5
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    If you power the system down & just connect the battery does the panel power up?
    After that you would need a multi meter to check the battery voltage 7 the charge voltage.
    If your getting someone to look at it you need to use a PSA licenced company not an electrician.


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    #6
    oscarBravo
    Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 28,807 Mod ✭✭✭✭oscarBravo


    KoolKid wrote: »
    If you power the system down & just connect the battery does the panel power up?
    I don't know anything about this system, but it's not entirely unusual for battery-backed equipment to refuse to "cold start" from battery without mains present.


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    #7
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    If there is a good charge this panel will power up.
    If it doesn't it will confirm the battery is well below 12 volts or the battery fuse may be gone.


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    #8
    Tina Shower
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭Tina Shower


    Hello,
    I have an Aritech C350 house alarm, today I was changing the battery in themain box as I have done beofre with no issues. I had everything connected and turned to put the cover back on and the battery fell out of the box and pulled the minus wire out of the PCB. I am assuming that i will need a soldering iron to put it back in but was just wondering if this had happened to anyone else and if so what you did to fix it.

    Thanks in advance
    Tina


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    #9
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Re-soldering it would be the correct way to do it.
    Was it the red or the black cable?


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    #10
    Tina Shower
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭Tina Shower


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Re-soldering it would be the correct way to do it.
    Was it the red or the black cable?

    Yeah.it was the black cable. Seems a little more.difficult...


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    #11
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Try wiring it into the aux -.


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    #12
    stuartkee
    Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭stuartkee


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Try wiring it into the aux -.

    whatever you do. do not solder this to the aux -.
    when it comes to charging batteries there is a charging circuit that protects the pcb and tests the load on the batt. if you solder onto aux neg it will flag up a constant low batt.


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    #13
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I was suggesting wire it into the aux negative output as a quick fix.
    Obviously if soldering solder it back where it came from as I said,that would be the right thing to do.


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    #14
    stuartkee
    Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭stuartkee


    KoolKid wrote: »
    I was suggesting wire it into the aux negative output as a quick fix.
    Obviously if soldering solder it back where it came from as I said,that would be the right thing to do.

    that is not a quick fix. it not a bell its a 12v 7amp battery. the only fix is solder it back in place.


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    #15
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    What's aux - got to do with it not being a bell -??
    Permanent - s are common.


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    #16
    stuartkee
    Registered Users Posts: 297 ✭✭stuartkee


    KoolKid wrote: »
    What's aux - got to do with it not being a bell -??
    Permanent - s are common.

    the aux - has a max current draw. the outputs for a bell has a max current draw.... if the batt start pulling current from the aux what happens? ?? it burns out the output... so back to solder it back in place is the Only solution.


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    #17
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Again, I agree the solder is the proper fix. I was simply offering a temp solution to get up and running.
    I have done this many times as a temp solution and never blew an output.


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    #18
    Tina Shower
    Registered Users Posts: 7 ✭Tina Shower


    KoolKid wrote: »
    Again, I agree the solder is the proper fix. I was simply offering a temp solution to get up and running.
    I have done this many times as a temp solution and never blew an output.

    So to solder it in place I.just.melt.the solder and push the wire in?


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    #19
    KoolKid
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Tina Shower wrote: »
    So to solder it in place I.just.melt.the solder and push the wire in?

    At the original location, yes.
    I'm not sure what others are suggesting here.
    The +would still come from the battery +and all negatives from the panel are common anyway.
    The draw on different outputs is on the + and is protected by the individual fuses


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