Floodlight switching arrangement

grousedogtom

Hi I'm going to install a 150 watt metal halide light fitting over a warehouse door, there will be a switch inside the door which I need to control the light, ok all easy so far, now i want an option where as if the light is not switched off after a set time eg an hour or so the light will switch off itself, I could achieve this using a spring return switch and a multi function relay, but I want to be able to turn off the light before the set time is up if I want, could someone give me an idea how to achieve this maybe by using a flip flop relay and a timer or any other way? I hope I've explained it ok, Thanks

bucky08

just use a run back timer with a standard two position switch... so light switch is in off position and light is off then turn light switch to on position and the run back timer starts (set to 1hour) will auto turn off after 1 hour if you turn switch to off position then light turns off before 1 hour... remember both control per and main pwritten to light must be broken through switch or use a double pole switch and will also work as you could use switch to break neutral to light through switch can post diagram if needed...

grousedogtom

bucky08 wrote: »

just use a run back timer with a standard two position switch... so light switch is in off position and light is off then turn light switch to on position and the run back timer starts (set to 1hour) will auto turn off after 1 hour if you turn switch to off position then light turns off before 1 hour... remember both control per and main pwritten to light must be broken through switch or use a double pole switch and will also work as you could use switch to break neutral to light through switch
can post diagram if needed...

If the light switch wasn't turned off and the run back timer turned it off after the hour then how is the light turned on the next time, would the switch have to be turned off first and back on to activate coil on run back timer?

grousedogtom

bucky08 wrote: »

just use a run back timer with a standard two position switch... so light switch is in off position and light is off then turn light switch to on position and the run back timer starts (set to 1hour) will auto turn off after 1 hour if you turn switch to off position then light turns off before 1 hour... remember both control per and main pwritten to light must be broken through switch or use a double pole switch and will also work as you could use switch to break neutral to light through switch
can post diagram if needed...

If the light switch wasn't turned off and the run back timer turned it off after the hour then how is the light turned on the next time, would the switch have to be turned off first and back on to activate coil on run back timer?

bucky08

yes turned off then back on again

A metal halite is an arc lamp. So turning it off and on repeatedly will significantly shorten the bulb life. Should you find yourself in a scenario where the light goes out on timer but you are still working and need to reset. Also consider the re-strike warm up time where you could have to wait 5 minutes for the gases to equalise.
Good suggestion for an LED flood though.

Resettable timer switch?



http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-FF60MC-60-Minute-Spring-Brushed/dp/B00004W4WZ/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

grousedogtom

bucky08 wrote: »

just use a run back timer with a standard two position switch... so light switch is in off position and light is off then turn light switch to on position and the run back timer starts (set to 1hour) will auto turn off after 1 hour if you turn switch to off position then light turns off before 1 hour... remember both control per and main pwritten to light must be broken through switch or use a double pole switch and will also work as you could use switch to break neutral to light through switch can post diagram if needed...

control per and main pwritten? A little confused with this?

RE: timer switches; Seems they're mostly available in America. Make sure anything you get from there is rated 240V as they're on 110V. Should you decide to buy a different one.

Stoner

I've a quick suggestion that I have seen work.

Some of these lights that work off a pir are smart.

I put one in years ago and wired it off a one way switch, the one way switch powers the pir, so when it's off it stays off, when you turn the light on it stays on for the duration of the pir timer, if you set this for an hour it will stay on for an hour if you want to just switched have it off you can do so, if you want it to remain on pir operation just leave the switch on and the timer will continually kick in and out.

Flicking the switch between on and off will start the fitting again if it times out.
Therefore with the right pir I think it's possible for you to achive what you need with no extra cabling or fancy switch, the electronics in some pirs were designed to operate the way you want it for retrofits

The steinel standalone pirs are smart like this and fitted in the correct place it could be what you want.

bucky08

control per and main pwritten? A little confused with this?

SORRY IT SHOULD OF READ AS "control pwr (shorthand for power) and main pwr"

Cycling Dumbasses

grousedogtom wrote: »

Hi I'm going to install a 150 watt metal halide light fitting over a warehouse door, there will be a switch inside the door which I need to control the light, ok all easy so far, now i want an option where as if the light is not switched off after a set time eg an hour or so the light will switch off itself, I could achieve this using a spring return switch and a multi function relay, but I want to be able to turn off the light before the set time is up if I want, could someone give me an idea how to achieve this maybe by using a flip flop relay and a timer or any other way? I hope I've explained it ok, Thanks

I feel you should get a registered electrician to do this job for you, an electrician who does more commercial/industrial work would be an advantage because they would be more expert and speed in the practical side of it i.e cable routing, installing cable tray/ steel conduit etc since the warehouse is a commercial premises. It may happen you need to take a supply off a consumer unit which you would need a registered electrician for, also would a diyer risk putting up one light in a warehouse that potentially could have thousands of euro of stock/materials plus the value of the building without having insurance.

grousedogtom

Cycling Dumbasses wrote: »

I feel you should get a registered electrician to do this job for you, an electrician who does more commercial/industrial work would be an advantage because they would be more expert and speed in the practical side of it i.e cable routing, installing cable tray/ steel conduit etc since the warehouse is a commercial premises. It may happen you need to take a supply off a consumer unit which you would need a registered electrician for, also would a diyer risk putting up one light in a warehouse that potentially could have thousands of euro of stock/materials plus the value of the building without having insurance.

I'm an registered insured electrical Contractor for the past 12 years, was only asking for people's opinions on the best option, got the job done today using a run back timer all working fine, thanks for your concern cycling.

Bruthal

Cycling Dumbasses wrote: »

also would a diyer risk putting up one light in a warehouse

Id give it a go anyway

ted1

An induction lamp may. Have been a better choice