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EBaron Dripper

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  • 25-11-2013 8:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭


    DripperPro-2.jpg?1350178385

    My first dripper....

    I need advice from someone who is familiar with one of these :)

    When replacing the coil, what is the best way to remove the ceramic piece base, I wiggle and wiggle but it refuses to come away easily, now I got it off once before and thought it would loosen up a bit after some use but no....

    Is it possible the NR wire is too large a diameter, am loathe to use a metal tool to force it as I do not have a spare ceramic and well....metal & ceramic together....!!!

    Also, the centre pin seems to work itself up so I lose contact with batt....any way of preventing this?

    When everything is going well with a clean coil, new cotton wick....best vape yet :)


«1

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I had one about a year ago and had the same problem. I sold it to Digby after a week.....the cup was too tight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    I wonder can it be sanded down a little??? Will take a look when I eventually get it off...gonna try some hot water and see if that helps any......


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I think it got a little easier each time though. Never used cotton in it. The res/no res put me off it and there were never pre made coils in stock back then.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    Ok...got it off, used two pieces of metal, kinda like two metal cocktail sticks, one each side and it came off quite easily....

    Cotton works fine in it, am a noobie to drippers though and am improving on the wicks in the eBaron, very little info about this dripper on the web....some but not a whole lot.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I'd used Bulli's and Clockworks RDA before I got mine and they were much easier to set up BUT they had to be made at the time that the coil gunked up. With the eBaron stuff I suppose you could have some spare wick/coils and no need to have screwdrivers on you.....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    What are you using now GH? And do you think there is a difference in vape between the Clockwork/Bulli/Provari


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    Using a spheroid usually. The Bulli Classic in dripping mode is outstanding, lovely warm full vape but doesn't hold much juice. The Clockworks RDA held a big volume and was robust and very easy to rebuild and easy to use mesh as wick. The spheroid has outstanding vapour, flavour and holds about 2 mls but its tricky to get the filler right. Coils only last a few days in it too. The A7-oid is like a poor mans spheroid in terms of build and stuff but its a nice little attie and compares pretty well to the spheroid. Bit warm though, same goes for the eBaron dripper, seemed too warm to me.

    All have their good points though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    dePeatrick wrote: »
    Cotton works fine in it, am a noobie to drippers though and am improving on the wicks in the eBaron, very little info about this dripper on the web....some but not a whole lot.

    Coil-built-in-a-cup-wise, any info on the Killer, Sofia, Spiral, Pro Dripper and Atmistique's Diver is applicable.
    The tank atty thread will obv be talking a lot about juice and airflow control, but there's a big massive hape of info about those practically identical builds on ECF or UKV.

    Not too much to worry about with it, but NR wire should be .20 or less or it gets finickledy. After that you just worry about your coil being tightly packed over the hole and BOOM! ... Your face gets blown off in a tragic accident.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    Using a spheroid usually. The Bulli Classic in dripping mode is outstanding, lovely warm full vape but doesn't hold much juice. The Clockworks RDA held a big volume and was robust and very easy to rebuild and easy to use mesh as wick. The spheroid has outstanding vapour, flavour and holds about 2 mls but its tricky to get the filler right. Coils only last a few days in it too. The A7-oid is like a poor mans spheroid in terms of build and stuff but its a nice little attie and compares pretty well to the spheroid. Bit warm though, same goes for the eBaron dripper, seemed too warm to me.

    All have their good points though.

    I had been reading about the Bulli after seeing it mentioned on here.....the eBaron was an impulse buy at Vapefest....enjoying it though....when it is set up...tried doing it in a hurry this evening and that does not work as yet :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I'm a big fan of the Bulli.....used it for a year. They are a bit thin for mods and only really suit eGo style batteries but a lovely vape. Me and Digby used to compare notes for ages on the Bulli.

    Pretty cheap nowadays but they used to be quite expensive. I always hated to see new vapers going from 510 disposable carts to gennies and bypass things like the Bulli. For me, it was a great introduction to rebuildables.

    Back then in the Stone Age though, there wasn't a fraction of the choice of rebuildables that there are now but the quality of those rebuildables was very high compared to the modern ones. At least that's what I think anyway.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23,556 ✭✭✭✭Sir Digby Chicken Caesar


    go bulli or go home


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    Ha ha.......that Bulli nearly drove you to drink......but you loved it....


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    grindle wrote: »
    Coil-built-in-a-cup-wise, any info on the Killer, Sofia, Spiral, Pro Dripper and Atmistique's Diver is applicable.
    The tank atty thread will obv be talking a lot about juice and airflow control, but there's a big massive hape of info about those practically identical builds on ECF or UKV.

    Not too much to worry about with it, but NR wire should be .20 or less or it gets finickledy. After that you just worry about your coil being tightly packed over the hole and BOOM! ... Your face gets blown off in a tragic accident.
    Ahhhh...was wondering just that Grindle....so they are all alike, great, can learn something from those threads so....will try and hang on to my face....it's useful for scaring people....:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    I'm a big fan of the Bulli.....used it for a year. They are a bit thin for mods and only really suit eGo style batteries but a lovely vape. Me and Digby used to compare notes for ages on the Bulli.

    Pretty cheap nowadays but they used to be quite expensive. I always hated to see new vapers going from 510 disposable carts to gennies and bypass things like the Bulli. For me, it was a great introduction to rebuildables.

    Back then in the Stone Age though, there wasn't a fraction of the choice of rebuildables that there are now but the quality of those rebuildables was very high compared to the modern ones. At least that's what I think anyway.

    That is what attracted me to the Bulli after I heard how good it was, it can sit on an Ego style battery....love the idea of getting a really good vape from discreet equipment :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    go bulli or go home

    TRRRRRRRAAAAITORRRRRRRRRRR!!!

    How's she cuttin'?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    With all the talk of expensive atties though, If you can get over the 'looking for the best vape syndrome', a good ole Boge carto in a tank and an ego twist is a pretty decent backup to have around...,..the Toyota corolla of vaping......


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    I have yet to try a Carto and it is on a list of "to do's" there seems to be a vape that is quite different from a Carto than anything else......I have to try this.....very soon! :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,305 ✭✭✭Green Hornet


    I never got on with clearo's, ever........but cartos were always reliable, cheap at about 1.50 each and last a week or so. They won't blow the socks off you but they are very good for handiness and reliability. Fill your tank and that's it for the day.

    There's a whole world of tank options out there as well.

    A few years ago, clearo's were a million times worse than they are now.......smokeymisers......fill with a syringe and virtually guaranteed to kill your battery.......leak juice and fill your mouth with ejuice too.....

    That's when cartos were in their heyday.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    I never got on with clearo's, ever........but cartos were always reliable, cheap at about 1.50 each and last a week or so. They won't blow the socks off you but they are very good for handiness and reliability. Fill your tank and that's it for the day.

    There's a whole world of tank options out there as well.

    A few years ago, clearo's were a million times worse than they are now.......smokeymisers......fill with a syringe and virtually guaranteed to kill your battery.......leak juice and fill your mouth with ejuice too.....

    That's when cartos were in their heyday.
    I've seen where people describe how Cartos bring air through the juice as well as vapour thereby giving more flavour.....would you agree?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    Everytime I have changed the cotton wick on the eBaron this week, after removing the old cotton wick and washing, after dry burning, the coil invariably ends up crooked in the ceramic base, so far this has proved impossible to straighten enough to re-wick and I have either broken it or given up and made a new coil.

    This is caused in large by the design whereby the negative side of the coil is loose when you take the top off. Now I could modify it by drilling a hole in the side of the base and returning the wire back in....or something like that....definitely needs modification in order to use it as a nightly dripper with cotton wick...

    Or go back to using Silica wick....???


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,711 ✭✭✭Gryzor


    I just burn out the old cotton wicks, they just disintegrate when dry burned...then lightly twist in the new cotton wick. Seems to cause the least disturbance for the coils imho..


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Or use thicker res wire? Never had this problem with the Killer or it's clone...
    dePatrick, are you putting the negative leg through it's corresponding hole in the cup? That should keep it in place really. Unless you're slipping that leg out the side of the cup to the negative I don't see how it would get mangled.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    Gryzor wrote: »
    I just burn out the old cotton wicks, they just disintegrate when dry burned...then lightly twist in the new cotton wick. Seems to cause the least disturbance for the coils imho..
    Now that you mention that, I had no problem do this on Evod/miniprotank heads, maybe I have changed my technique somehow....not for the better :D


    grindle wrote: »
    Or use thicker res wire? Never had this problem with the Killer or it's clone...
    dePatrick, are you putting the negative leg through it's corresponding hole in the cup? That should keep it in place really. Unless you're slipping that leg out the side of the cup to the negative I don't see how it would get mangled.

    Yeah, definitely putting both legs through, think it was the way that the neg leg is supposed to be wrapped partly around the thread on the base. Did it again and returned the neg leg into the opening on the opposite side and problem is solved. When I dry burn the weld pops no matter how easy on it I am......but not giving up, maybe a dodgy set of res/nores wire or maybe my fault.....

    Going to rebuild some Miniprotank heads now tonight and see if I am doing something different. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    dePeatrick wrote: »
    When I dry burn the weld pops no matter how easy on it I am......but not giving up, maybe a dodgy set of res/nores wire or maybe my fault.....

    Ah, the weld may be the problem. I only ever used it with a twisted join. The heat of a dry-burn could easily be melting the nickel or silver.
    Maybe try at low voltages?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    grindle wrote: »
    Ah, the weld may be the problem. I only ever used it with a twisted join. The heat of a dry-burn could easily be melting the nickel or silver.
    Maybe try at low voltages?

    I've tried low voltages and pulsing. You could well be right though, might see about getting some wire to twist my own.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,555 ✭✭✭youdipstick


    dePeatrick wrote: »
    I've tried low voltages and pulsing. You could well be right though, might see about getting some wire to twist my own.

    Have a look at this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdVtN0cLMjk I followed his idea about twisting 32 & 34 guage,the way he twists both wires is ok for doing one set of dual coils,I usually twist about a metre in length & this gives me alot coils.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    Well, am getting this Sussed at last, I was getting a few things wrong, thanks Grindle for suggesting using a twist at low voltage to burn coils, that extended the life of my builds two fold, then I decided to check some measurements....as I thought I was making micro coils.....looks like I wasn't making micro coils at all.....I was making nano coils! 1mm inside diameter.....so when I went to clean out the inside with the needle I had wrapped them on, it was a very tight fit, tight enough to break them.....

    Am using a pin to clean the coils now and that in turn has further increased the life of a coil....well this is the third day to re wick and it is fine....

    The other thing is that I was very proud of the coils I was building on the miniprotank and the vape I was getting......'cept now I just cannot get the same hit, flavour or clouds as I am getting on the eBaron, also whatever it is, and I have tried several times, when I put it on a twist it does not taste as good, the only one that comes close, very close...is my original 1100 mH Ego that is not a twist!

    I get a day out of an 800 mAh Efest and as soon as the batt hits 3.2 that's it, I check it on a meter everytime and it is always exactly the same. It is fine up until that point and then wham....nothing.......

    Now the question is what to go onto next, I have an Ego W4 eyed up, but after this experience with the eBaron......will that do it for me......???


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Hrmmmm. The eBaron stuff can be finicky with where you put the coil. If they're too high you have vapourlessness. Something like the W4 would certainly be easier but I'd wait for the W3 to pop up, with it's adjustable airflow and 5 posts.
    Future-proofed out the wazoo.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭dePeatrick


    I've noticed how sensitive it can be to coil height and pretty much everything else but when it is set up right it seriously kicks ass, everytime I have recoiled/re wicked there is a slight adjustment over the previous time and I still think that I do not have it perfected......yet! :)

    W3....four coils.....Is it really all it's cracked up to be? One part of me wants to try it....and the other part of me thinks cloud-chasing is silly, now these two parts seem to get on really well :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    Four coils I haven't done yet, haven't got an atty with enough airflow for it yet. A third was far too hot in my RDA but the air in that sucker is re-stric-ted.
    Duals are definitely worth it if you want less face time with the yoke @ same mg.

    Cloud-chasing is undoubtedly silly but short drags + yumminess = possibly worth it?


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