Health & Detailing

JAMES VTI S

For dry use (polish/hoovering ECT) i use



Because they are breathable, warm and comfortable

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Where the glove gets wet i use



Because they are waterproof, hard wearing and most importantly disposable, cheap and readily available, (after ten or so uses they are smelly from sweating so i just dump them a have another pair ready to go)

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For breathing i use



Again because they are disposable, cheap and readily available (no 100% correct for chemicals spray but good for dust)

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Where noise is involved i use



These are designed for amplified music (dj's, bands ECT) they cut down the harmful sounds so things like machine polishing are tiresome
With these plugs you can hear the radio have a conversation, some times i forget to take them out

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Where Harful chemicals get blown around (wheel cleaner TRF ECT) i use



:cool: cheap and readily available and comfortable

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Where kneeling is involved i use



:rolleyes: only picture i could find
Anyway its a four by two foot foam mat, grate for laying down and fold it over great for kneeling on
One downside is its not waterproof so i am at some stage going to get




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• Read the lables know what you are using
• Label all containers
• Containers should not be drinks bottles if possoble
• Inform family that the chemicals are dangerious and are not to be used
• Keep out of reach of pets and children (dogs love to chew plastic)

If you don't look after yourself when it comes to things like chemicals it could mean someone might have to look after you.

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1. What are your thoughts
2. what is your PPE (personal protective equipment)

Curran

Personally I dont much. Most of the products I use are designed to be as close to touchless as possible...spray on, rinse off.
Most I'd wear is a pair of latex gloves, and during the winter a thin pair of gloves to keep the hands warm, along with two buckets of water filled with tap water and then topped up with about 6 kettle fulls Also, I work in a very well ventilated area!

Though, it is a good idea to use PPE if you are not 100% sure about a product or if you are going to have prolonged contact with a harmful product. Make sure to wash your hands with just water if you do come in contact with something like tar remover, de-ironiser/fallout remover, undiluted APC, etc.

TheBigGreen

A pair of wellies!

Mc Love

TheBigGreen wrote: »

A pair of wellies!

Wet pants

MetzgerMeister

TheBigGreen wrote: »

A pair of wellies!

Or just coat your clothes and shoes in Gtechniq I1 and you have 100% waterproof clothing and shoes and water will bead off you better than your car

I wouldn't have thought many people would bother with PPE for cars (unless you're a pro and at it all the time).

That said, I got my order off detailing shed and it contained two squeezy handle things (like on the top of bottles of sprays), but they werent attached to any bottles. I figured (correctly) that one would be a 'spray' head, and the other a 'stream' head (where the water comes out in a single thicker line, rather than being 'sprayed' into a mist).

So I whipped out my product (think it was TarCleanse), and screwed the spray top onto it and aimed it in the general direction of the wheel. I got in nice and close and found a bit of tar I didn't like the look of.

Like a cartoon, as soon as i squeezed the handle a gust of wind blew me and i lost my balance a bit. Turned out i was using the stream handle instead of the spray one. The TarCleanse bounced off the tyre and came back and hit me in the eye. :pac:

Was watery for a while, and a slight redness, but it was gone shortly after. I'd imagine it's a pain if you're going to have to use it a lot! Hopefully, not many other people are as idiotic as I am.

Thoroughly recommend gloves though. Far too cold out as of late. Those wet bottles, cloths, etc. do have an impact on you. Hypothermia of the fingers.

Ded_Zebra

Ear protection is a must IMO when using the polisher. I rarely use anything else though (gloves, goggles etc.)

Curran

Sorry, should have given you a heads up!

The all white trigger, with the adjustable nozzle, is for the Tar Cleanse
The white and blue trigger is for the Wheel Cleanse
There is no trigger for the Iron Cleanse, as its a concentrate and can be diluted down to your needs. Diluted 1:1 its as strong as the first rev. of the Iron Cleanse, but can be used neat if the car is bad.

If you've mixed up the triggers, be sure to flush out some water through them before using them on the proper bottles.

As a rule of thumb, washing or rinsing your skin or eyes, with water for a decent length of time would be the best way to treat affected areas.

MetzgerMeister

Curran wrote: »

Sorry, should have given you a heads up!

The all white trigger, with the adjustable nozzle, is for the Tar Cleanse
The white and blue trigger is for the Wheel Cleanse
There is no trigger for the Iron Cleanse, as its a concentrate and can be diluted down to your needs. Diluted 1:1 its as strong as the first rev. of the Iron Cleanse, but can be used neat if the car is bad.

If you've mixed up the triggers, be sure to flush out some water through them before using them on the proper bottles.

As a rule of thumb, washing or rinsing your skin or eyes, with water for a decent length of time would be the best way to treat affected areas.

At least write TC/IC/WC on the triggers for feck sake :pac:

Curran

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

At least write TC/IC/WC on the triggers for feck sake :pac:

Wouldnt like my triggers written on TBH!

They arent single purpose triggers, nothing wrong with using the TC trigger with IC as it has a nice adjustable spray nozzle.

JAMES VTI S

I know what products do and i wouldn't want to be absorbing any of that into my body.

JAMES VTI S

If i am taking off wheels i use



Because they can be bough locally at halfords and wont brake the bank

MetzgerMeister

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

I know what products do and i wouldn't want to be absorbing any of that into my body.

Turtle Wax Wheel Clean can also be used as a very good toothpaste, Meguiars metal polish is good as a wrinkle-ridding cream and Meg's Last Touch detailer is lovely as a cocktail mixer

Curran

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

If i am taking off wheels i use

I use one of these, cos I have access to it!

Scortho

You have a lift for detailing...hmmm

Curran

Scortho wrote: »

You have a lift for detailing...hmmm

I have access to a lift for detailing, occassionally!!

JAMES VTI S

Same as that^ would be great for winter under body sealing.

Scortho

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

Same as that^ would be great for winter under body sealing.

That's why I was hoping that it was more than just access and he'd be genorous! :pac:

randy hickey

Fair play to James for raising the issue of health and safety as it pertains to detailing/valeting.

It's important that we don't adopt the stereotypical macho blasé " ah, sure it'll never happen to me" attitude with this.
Any of us that detail/valet cars, whether full time, part time or just weekend warriors, are using chemicals that can do damage to us.
Do yourself a favour - google the MSDS for the products that you use - it will tell you the hazards of the product along with what type of PPE you should be using with that product.
Some of you will even be surprised that the latex or vinyl gloves that you thought were sufficient are not,(certain chemicals can permeate them), and that nitrile gloves are recommended for use with certain products.


Storage of chemicals is another issue - on another thread someone recently mentioned that they had been given some snow foam in a plastic milk carton, and it had leaked.The reason for this is that the likes of milk jugs are made from PET, which is permeable to a lot of chemicals.
To safely store most of the stuff that we would be using, you need containers made from HDPE.
If you look at the bottom of any plastic container, there should be a little triangle of "chasing arrows" with a number inside.Here's an article explaining the numbering system:


THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLASTICS AND CLASSIFICATION

Resource Center » The Different Types of Plastic and Their Number Classifications (Codes)

Many consumer products, such as water bottles and product containers, are made from various types of plastic. The Society of the Plastics Industry (SPI) established a classification system in 1988 to allow consumers and recyclers to properly recycle and dispose of different types of plastic. Manufacturers follow a coding system and place an SPI code, or number, on each plastic product, which is usually molded into the bottom. Although you should always verify the plastic classification number of each product you use, this guide provides a basic outline of the different plastic types associated with each code number.

Plastic Type One Plastic Water Bottles
Plastic marked with an SPI code of 1 is made with Polyethylene Terephthalate, which is also known as PETE or PET. Containers made from this plastic sometimes absorb odors and flavors from foods and drinks that are stored in them. Items made from this plastic are commonly recycled. PETE plastic is used to make many common household items like beverage bottles, medicine jars, peanut butter jars, combs, bean bags, and rope. Recycled PETE is used to make tote bags, carpet, fiberfill material in winter clothing, and more.


Plastic Type Two
Plastic Milk Jugs
Plastic marked with an SPI code of 2 is made with High-Density Polyethylene, or HDPE. HDPE products are very safe and they are not known to transmit any chemicals into foods or drinks. HDPE products are commonly recycled. Items made from this plastic include containers for milk, motor oil, shampoos and conditioners, soap bottles, detergents, and bleaches. Many personalized toys are made from this plastic as well. (Please note: it is NEVER safe to reuse an HDPE bottle as a food or drink container if it didn’t originally contain food or drink!) Recycled HDPE is used to make plastic crates, plastic lumber, fencing, and more.


Plastic Type Three Plastic Tubing
Plastic labeled with an SPI code of 3 is made with Polyvinyl Chloride, or PVC. PVC is not often recycled and it can be harmful if ingested. PVC is used for all kinds of pipes and tiles, but it's most commonly found in plumbing pipes. This kind of plastic should not come in contact with food items. Recycled PVC is used to make flooring, mobile home skirting, and more.


Plastic Type Four
Plastic Grocery Bags
Plastic marked with an SPI code of 4 is made with Low-Density Polyethylene, or LDPE. LDPE is not commonly recycled, but it is recyclable in certain areas. It is a very healthy plastic that tends to be both durable and flexible. Plastic cling wrap, sandwich bags, squeezable bottles, and plastic grocery bags are all made from LDPE. Recycled LDPE is used to make garbage cans, lumber, furniture, and more.


Plastic Type Five
Plastic Stadium Cups
Plastic marked with an SPI code of 5 is made with Polypropylene, or PP. PP is not commonly recycled, but it is accepted in many areas. This type of plastic is strong and can usually withstand higher temperatures. Among many other products, it is used to make plastic diapers, Tupperware, margarine containers, yogurt boxes, syrup bottles, prescription bottles, and some stadium cups. Plastic bottle caps are often made from PP as well. Recycled PP is used to make ice scrapers, rakes, battery cables, and more.


Plastic Type Six Packing Peanuts
Plastic marked with an SPI code of 6 is made with Polystyrene, also known as PS and most commonly known as Styrofoam. It is commonly recycled, but it is difficult to do so and often ends up in landfills anyway. Disposable coffee cups, plastic food boxes, plastic cutlery, packing foam, and packing peanuts are made from PS. Recycled PS is used to make insulation, license plate frames, rulers, and more.


Plastic Type Seven Plastic CDs and DVDs
The SPI code of 7 is used to designate miscellaneous types of plastic that are not defined by the other six codes. Polycarbonate and Polylactide are included in this category. These types of plastics are difficult to recycle. Polycarbonate, or PC, is used in baby bottles, large water bottles (multiple-gallon capacity), compact discs, and medical storage containers. Recycled plastics in this category are used to make plastic lumber, among other products.

Consumers can make better plastic-purchasing decisions if they understand SPI codes and potential health hazards of each plastic, and recyclers can more effectively separate plastics into categories. Always check a product’s classification code prior to recycling it or re-using it. It’s important to stay educated about plastic classification numbers and plastic types; remember, informed consumers can demand that plastics manufacturers provide better products.
Article By Jill Tooley


Read more: http://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/lib/different-types-of-plastic.htm#ixzz2nFlKe6w2

MetzgerMeister

For anyone wondering what PPE is, it's Personal Protection Equipment.

I have first hand experience of the damage chemicals can do. I got strange symptoms a few years ago after accidentally breathing in the off-spray from turtle wax wheel clean. This stuff is very acidic and even more so when you taste it :P I had a sore throat and sick stomach along with difficulty breathing (although this could be attributed to the fact that I used smoke) for aboout 2 -3 days afterwards.

All these type of products can and do affect your respiratory system so don't think "ah shur I'll hold me breath" because that doesn't work.

I mentioned Shampoo Plus and Hyperwash in a different thread a few minutes ago. I use these every week and I have to put on surgical gloves before I use my wash mitt. Otherwise the skin on my hands gets very dry and sore and cracks.

Curran

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Otherwise the skin on my hands gets very dry and sore and cracks.

Awhh you poor thing....I heard Fairy Liquid is easy on the hands!! :pac:
Not so good on the car!


Seriously though, yes PPE is important, but there is also a certain amount of companies covering their asses too.
PPE for doing a fry in the morning could be considered as safety glasses (spitting oil), oven gloves (hot surfaces), ear protection (wife nagging you're burning the sausages).
How many of you would wear gloves using cleaning products in the house?

I know thats a bit tounge in cheek, but common sense should prevail...and obviously, if it doubt, its better to have protection on, than not....but lads, we all got the protection story in sex ed!

I would advise anyone using products for prolonged periods to use gloves though.

MetzgerMeister

Curran wrote: »

Awhh you poor thing....I heard Fairy Liquid is easy on the hands!! :pac:
Not so good on the car!


Seriously though, yes PPE is important, but there is also a certain amount of companies covering their asses too.
PPE for doing a fry in the morning could be considered as safety glasses (spitting oil), oven gloves (hot surfaces), ear protection (wife nagging you're burning the sausages).
How many of you would wear gloves using cleaning products in the house?

I know thats a bit tounge in cheek, but common sense should prevail...and obviously, if it doubt, its better to have protection on, than not....but lads, we all got the protection story in sex ed!

I would advise anyone using products for prolonged periods to use gloves though.

Try playing squash with cracked and bleeding hands ya ape!!

Also, cleaning products in the house?!?? We shouldn't have to worry about that but we should tell the wimmins to wear protective gloves :pac:

Curran

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Also, cleaning products in the house?!?? We shouldn't have to worry about that but we should tell the wimmins to wear protective gloves :pac:

You make sure to tell your mammy to wear the gloves so!

challengemaster

Deleted User wrote: »

That said, I got my order off detailing shed and it contained two squeezy handle things (like on the top of bottles of sprays), but they werent attached to any bottles. I figured (correctly) that one would be a 'spray' head, and the other a 'stream' head (where the water comes out in a single thicker line, rather than being 'sprayed' into a mist).

So I whipped out my product (think it was TarCleanse), and screwed the spray top onto it and aimed it in the general direction of the wheel. I got in nice and close and found a bit of tar I didn't like the look of.

Like a cartoon, as soon as i squeezed the handle a gust of wind blew me and i lost my balance a bit. Turned out i was using the stream handle instead of the spray one. The TarCleanse bounced off the tyre and came back and hit me in the eye. :pac:

Was watery for a while, and a slight redness, but it was gone shortly after. I'd imagine it's a pain if you're going to have to use it a lot! Hopefully, not many other people are as idiotic as I am.

Thoroughly recommend gloves though. Far too cold out as of late. Those wet bottles, cloths, etc. do have an impact on you. Hypothermia of the fingers.

Don't worry, you're not the only one to have suffered this fate. Going by Currans recommendations on which nozzle to use, it appears the 'stream' is the tar cleanse one. Same thing, had bounce back into my eye. Went and washed it out for a minute or two (that hurt more than the fecking TC tbh).

Did find that nozzle is very wasteful though.

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

I know what products do and i wouldn't want to be absorbing any of that into my body.

You'd be surprised how resilient your body is to spontaneously absorbing things :P Short of getting any in your many orifices, or your eyes, you won't unless its through wounds.

Any skin damage is superficial (ie. cracked hands etc). Skin has a lot of layers. All the chemicals will do is erode away the uppermost layer (epidermis) until you hit a layer of 'raw' or 'fresh' skin (dermis). Exact same as if you bite the skin around your fingernails, you'll get a few layers off before it becomes sore.

I'm not saying PPE is unnecessary, but it's not concentrated sulphuric acid you're dealing with either. Everything in moderation. You don't need a hazmat suit to wash a car.

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I have first hand experience of the damage chemicals can do. I got strange symptoms a few years ago after accidentally breathing in the off-spray from turtle wax wheel clean. This stuff is very acidic and even more so when you taste it :P I had a sore throat and sick stomach along with difficulty breathing (although this could be attributed to the fact that I used smoke) for aboout 2 -3 days afterwards.

I can vouch for Turtle wax wheel clean being horrendous to get in your eye also.

MetzgerMeister

challengemaster wrote: »

Same thing, had bounce back into my eye. Went and washed it out for a minute or two (that hurt more than the fecking TC tbh).

I can vouch for Turtle wax wheel clean being horrendous to get in your eye also.

It helps if you don't try to clean the brake dust out of your fooken eyes!!!!!

Chimaera

challengemaster wrote: »

You'd be surprised how resilient your body is to spontaneously absorbing things :P Short of getting any in your many orifices, or your eyes, you won't unless its through wounds.

Any skin damage is superficial (ie. cracked hands etc). Skin has a lot of layers. All the chemicals will do is erode away the uppermost layer (epidermis) until you hit a layer of 'raw' or 'fresh' skin (dermis). Exact same as if you bite the skin around your fingernails, you'll get a few layers off before it becomes sore.

I'm not saying PPE is unnecessary, but it's not concentrated sulphuric acid you're dealing with either. Everything in moderation. You don't need a hazmat suit to wash a car.

There are plenty of sneaky organics that can be absorbed through the skin and cause damage inside. You'll find them especially in the likes of tar removers which need organic solvents to break down tar (itself a mixture of organic compounds).

Some of these can get through gloves too. Petrol and acetone will dissolve nitrile gloves. A salutary tale in just how evil some of these things can be is that of Karen Wetterhahn: she was a research chemist who died of mercury poisoning because no-one realised the diethyl mercury she was using could soak through the gloves she was using and get into her body through the skin.

Car cleaning products are not quite so toxic but it's worth remembering that gloves are not the perfect barrier people think they are.

Things that are more relevant to the professional doing this every day:

Gloves are rated for a certain duration against different chemicals. Past that time limit, they will start to break down and allow stuff through. It varies depending on what the gloves are made from and what you're using.

Some chemicals will enter the body and do a little harm and leave again if there's no further exposure. We can generally handle these occasionally and be ok afterwards. If you're using them every day, protection is important. If it's the odd job every few weeks, you might get away with it.

Other chemicals stay in the body after exposure and levels build up over time. Continued exposure without PPE in these cases will cause you a lot of harm.

randy hickey

Nitrile gloves offer more protection than vinyl or latex gloves, but as Chimaera points out, even they can be permeated by the xylene in tar removers like OAC Tar Cleanse or Autosmart Tardis.


Another thing to watch out for is becoming a home chemist.Over on DW, a lot of guys have recommended throwing a bit if citrus cleaner (mostly Valet Pro Citrus) in with the snow foam solution in the lance bottle.Then Ronnie Gillespie of Orchard Autocare fame points out that the chemicals in these two products can react to create a toxic gas!

Mc Love

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

For dry use (polish/hoovering ECT) i use



Because they are breathable, warm and comfortable

____________________________________________

Where the glove gets wet i use



Because they are waterproof, hard wearing and most importantly disposable, cheap and readily available, (after ten or so uses they are smelly from sweating so i just dump them a have another pair ready to go)

____________________________________________

For breathing i use



Again because they are disposable, cheap and readily available (no 100% correct for chemicals spray but good for dust)

____________________________________________

[/LIST]

I suppose these can be bought in any good hardware store?

Zoney

Curran wrote: »

Awhh you poor thing....I heard Fairy Liquid is easy on the hands!! :pac:
Not so good on the car!

I may have used Fairy Liquid the first time I washed the car... sure enough, didn't use gloves!

I use heavy duty disposable Marigold gloves now - just from the local Centra. If I'm doing anything more advanced in future, the local Dairygold co-op superstore has anything I need such as breathing filters. (Co-op's where I got my hardy plastic farm buckets for €5 each for washing).

JAMES VTI S

Mc Love wrote: »

I suppose these can be bought in any good hardware store?

Yup

I get very dry skin if i dont wear gloves, like the chem's are made for heavy duty use

MetzgerMeister

JAMES VTI S wrote: »

Yup

I get very dry skin if i dont wear gloves, like the chem's are made for heavy duty use

Curran wrote: »

Awhh you poor thing....I heard Fairy Liquid is easy on the hands!! :pac:.

:pac: