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Help needed (Sir Liam?)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    thanks Spacehopper. It's actually the wiring of the fridge that is the problem

    I don't really think it's worth spending money on to any great degree, so I'm just going to manage on 12v only. It's only in the height of summer that it would be a problem


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭bugsntinas


    mine says 212A on the front


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    mines a different model, John, not worth all the trouble of taking yours out only to find it's different behind. Thanks anyway


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    If you coukd leave it to me , I'd fix it in my own time purely to help out a forum member.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    thanks, but it isn't worth the petrol I don't think for the use I'd get out of it. It's fine on 12v when I'm driving and stays cold for a while after


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    2n8ylo5.jpg

    further back view


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,001 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    The far left contact is the white wise going to the gas jet it carries the spark, check for shorts to the chassis on this.

    Of the three in a row, the left one is the +12V, the L is Lamp (a guess) and the right is the ground.

    I'd say the switch connects between the screw terminal carying the +12V (from the leisure battery) and the +12V on the box using the two outside contacts, the center one is probably the lamp contact.

    The sparker (box) could be gone though I replaced the one on my fridge for about 80 euros including a new switch since I was taking at out. Made a big difference.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    No , power goes from the screw terminal to the box, via the lead atthaced (you can tell that by the size of the connector) .then to the switch I'd say via the red lead (from the centre ?)with the grey lead coming back from the switch to the right terminal


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,001 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    You said somebody tried to fix it?

    What you are saying sounds wrong, I'd put the power to the switch then to the box. Think about it there is a GND connection on the box so the switch would go on the power in. If I get time I'll shine a torch on my fridge and see if I can make out the wiring!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    no I don't think he did any more than unplug the wires.
    The power lead definitely went to one of the three terminals and the right one is marked with a earth symbol. The lead is not long enough to reach the switch and has the wrong connector.

    It would fit to the extreme left too, but I'd agree that is the white wire goes on there. (the white wire is long enough to fit one of the three terminals but i'd say it is that long as it was tied back to the gas pipe originally.


    (OK so the fridge is potentially 25 years old and it is odd that the live wire becomes black...in fact the presence of that chocolate block connector leads me to think that the wiring has been altered at some stage for some reason))

    edit: It does seem illogical, if the power went direct to the switch and then back left hand term with a lead to the lamp and the earth from the rh term back to the connector , that would be more logical.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Okay , there's a metaphorical crossing of wires here!
    That control box is I reckon the spark generator. Most usually switched by an orange switch , on very old models it can be red .
    The 12v supply to the DC heating element shouldn't be connected to it at all!

    I just want to clarify , your heating element is working fine , and is separate to all that?

    That is the older type of spark box , and they do fail , especially if left sparking away by accident . which wire have you 12v+ in?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    the 12v element is separate and is working. power is via the blue and white wire which changes to black after the connector (something screwy there)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    corktina wrote: »
    the 12v element is separate and is working. power is via the blue and white wire which changes to black after the connector (something screwy there)

    That's not unusual. Camper wiring meets fridge wiring.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,001 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    That is the older type of spark box , and they do fail , especially if left sparking away by accident . which wire have you 12v+ in?

    Yea mine is from 91 and it sparked very slowly when I got it then it got left one once or twice and eventually died. I got a new one on e-Bay, fitted it myself and it brought a new lease of life to the fridge. I also changed the switch but you can get them cheaper from Maplin or Farnell.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dometic-Electrolux-caravan-motorhome-fridge-gas-igniter/290767194641?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D3296635023371990033%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D290552896900%26


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    corktina wrote: »
    the 12v element is separate and is working. power is via the blue and white wire which changes to black after the connector (something screwy there)

    Anyways, from memory, 12v + and - in, + goes to the left of the 3 on the black box, the middle on the box goes to the switch, the 12v- goes to the centre of the switch and loops back to ground on the fridge chassis and the other pin on the switch , where the on is clicked to, connects to the right of 3 on the box.

    If that doesn't work the box is prob crecm crackered. You could replace it cheaply with a piezo igniter button.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    that's how I have it wired in my first photo , as that's how the wires seem to want to sit.

    when I apply 12v to the left of the three terminals, what would I expect at the other terminals? should the middle one be live? only when earthed and the swtich truned on I imagaine

    I've connected the wires thus fully. I have power going into the left term of three, nothing coming out from the other terminals. I think my box has died. Getting a new one will only present me with the same wiring dilemmas, so I think I'll forget the gas option altogethr


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    corktina wrote: »
    that's how I have it wired in my first photo , as that's how the wires seem to want to sit.

    when I apply 12v to the left of the three terminals, what would I expect at the other terminals? should the middle one be live? only when earthed and the swtich truned on I imagaine

    I've connected the wires thus fully. I have power going into the left term of three, nothing coming out from the other terminals. I think my box has died. Getting a new one will only present me with the same wiring dilemmas, so I think I'll forget the gas option altogethr

    As I said, why not just get a cheap push button piezo igniter? Only one wire...


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