Sharpening Husqvarna 365

rurz23

I have a stupid question regarding the 365...my dad has one and is always talking about wanting a grinder or sharpener for the chain...he has a file but wanted something better...does anyone know what type of one I should be looking for? Thanks

ford2600

rurz23 wrote: »

I have a stupid question regarding the 365...my dad has one and is always talking about wanting a grinder or sharpener for the chain...he has a file but wanted something better...does anyone know what type of one I should be looking for? Thanks

I just use a guage which sits onto tooth and guves you correct angle.

stihl make one which has a matching file holder.once you have the correct file size you'll get a good edge.

I wouldn't bother with electric grinder to be honest. Not much good when in middle of field or wood

webels

I use the Lidl Florabest one. It has its place as ford2600 said hard to beat a file with the correct angle guide, but to rejuvinate a chain the chain sharpener is great. Takes a bit of getting used to but you could sharpen a chain in 5 mins when you get used to it. Also dont forget to file down the rakers a mm or 2 with a flat file from time to time.

ford2600

webels wrote: »

I use the Lidl Florabest one. It has its place as ford2600 said hard to beat a file with the correct angle guide, but to rejuvinate a chain the chain sharpener is great. Takes a bit of getting used to but you could sharpen a chain in 5 mins when you get used to it. Also dont forget to file down the rakers a mm or 2 with a flat file from time to time.

You can get a 2:1 guage which also lets you know if rakers need adjustment, or two separate tools.
Wouldn't be against a chain sharpener, all about setting them up right I guess.
Small bit to be known about chains and bars. Some good sites will explain guage, pitch, full/semi chiesel etc. Also pays to learn about bar care and maintenance.
I find a short bar (14") and a 1.5 guage on 50cc is super for most handy tasks

webels

Also the size of the chippings tells a lot. Too dusty any its a sharpening you need, if that doesnt do it drop your rakers. However if you take too much off rakers your shavings will be too big and the saw will struggle in the cut. A bit unscientific but a bit of experience (and a few wasted chains), it will all make sense.

kay 9

It's handy to sharpen a few chains the night before cutting. I find it relaxing and better than watching TV. You can actually get a better sharpening by hand with practice and fine tune it for the type of timber you're cutting.

Sir Arthur Daley

webels wrote: »

I use the Lidl Florabest one. It has its place as ford2600 said hard to beat a file with the correct angle guide, but to rejuvinate a chain the chain sharpener is great. Takes a bit of getting used to but you could sharpen a chain in 5 mins when you get used to it. Also dont forget to file down the rakers a mm or 2 with a flat file from time to time.

Taking down the rakers 2 mm is away too much, it will cut well if your saw has the power but this will increase vibration and risk of kickback which can make a dangerous situation, a depth gauge tool with a flat file to suit the brand of chain is the correct way in taking down the depth gauges.

webels

WikiHow wrote: »

Taking down the rakers 2 mm is away too much, it will cut well if your saw has the power but this will increase vibration and risk of kickback which can make a dangerous situation, a depth gauge tool with a flat file to suit the brand of chain is the correct way in taking down the depth gauges.

Sorry yes your correct 2mm is too much. I have a couple of guages, but normally end up taking off a half mm.
To be honest it isn't something you do too often maybe once or twice in the lifetime of a chain.

Rovi

The traditional recommendation, when using two separate gauges/files for doing the cutter and rakers, was to touch up the rakers every second or third sharpening.

I've been using a Stihl 2-in-1 EasyFile for the last year or so, and I think it's the best thing EVER!
(at least, until the next best thing ever comes along)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

It does both cutter and raker at the same time, and is dead easy to use.

I give the chain a rub at every fuel fill, and it takes just under a minute to do both sides of a 14" .325 bar/chain, for example. Bigger saws/chains take a bit longer, obviously.
2 strokes/tooth; keeps the chain like a razor at all times.

I put the saw in the bench vise at the end of the day and do a good inspection/tidy up, but they rarely need more than a few strokes on each tooth to keep things perfect.

Sir Arthur Daley

Rovi wrote: »

The traditional recommendation, when using two separate gauges/files for doing the cutter and rakers, was to touch up the rakers every second or third sharpening.

I've been using a Stihl 2-in-1 EasyFile for the last year or so, and I think it's the best thing EVER!
(at least, until the next best thing ever comes along)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucIpjJ-BNWQ

It does both cutter and raker at the same time, and is dead easy to use.

I give the chain a rub at every fuel fill, and it takes just under a minute to do both sides of a 14" .325 bar/chain, for example. Bigger saws/chains take a bit longer, obviously.
2 strokes/tooth; keeps the chain like a razor at all times.

I put the saw in the bench vise at the end of the day and do a good inspection/tidy up, but they rarely need more than a few strokes on each tooth to keep things perfect.

When i did the cs30/31 the instructor demonstrated this tool but said it brought down the depth gauges a little too far, do you find this?
I use separate file guide for sharpening and depth gauge tool to file down the gauges, his opinion was only one so be interesting how other people find these 2 in 1 tools as it is a neat piece of kit.

screcrow

WikiHow wrote: »

When i did the cs30/31 the instructor demonstrated this tool but said it brought down the depth gauges a little too far, do you find this?
I use separate file guide for sharpening and depth gauge tool to file down the gauges, his opinion was only one so be interesting how other people find these 2 in 1 tools as it is a neat piece of kit.

I have one that i have used for the last couple of years and find it very good it gets the chain very sharp. lighter the strokes are the better. the rakers are fine for cutting hard wood. then saw cuts nice and smooth and straight no grabbing or jumping. the problem I could see with it is it takes a shade more of one side of the rakers and the other which might have been caused by my careful treatment of the sharper;)

Sir Arthur Daley

screcrow wrote: »

I have one that i have used for the last couple of years and find it very good it gets the chain very sharp. lighter the strokes are the better. the rakers are fine for cutting hard wood. then saw cuts nice and smooth and straight no grabbing or jumping. the problem I could see with it is it takes a shade more of one side of the rakers and the other which might have been caused by my careful treatment of the sharper;)

Ill pick one up next time i stumble across one, ebay.com was the only place i see them, is there any good online shop in Ireland that doesnt charge a fortune, need to pick up a 130cm felling bar and need a few wedges too, thanks

screcrow

WikiHow wrote: »

Ill pick one up next time i stumble across one, ebay.com was the only place i see them, is there any good online shop in Ireland that doesnt charge a fortune, need to pick up a 130cm felling bar and need a few wedges too, thanks

130cm felling bar:eek: you really are the monster under the bed
don't know of any good online shop in Ireland.you will find them in most places that sell chainsaws

vinnie13

bog standard oregon file kit about 15euro and is better than any gizmo..

junospider

using the 2 in 1 for 2 years.great bit of kit.

Rovi

WikiHow wrote: »

When i did the cs30/31 the instructor demonstrated this tool but said it brought down the depth gauges a little too far, do you find this?

I haven't found this to be an issue at all, to be honest.

Now, I've only been using these on saws in Spruce, Larch, Sycamore, Willow, Ash, Birch, and the like.
Perhaps in Oak or Beech it might be a bit too aggressive?

Rovi

WikiHow wrote: »

Ill pick one up next time i stumble across one, ebay.com was the only place i see them, is there any good online shop in Ireland that doesnt charge a fortune, need to pick up a 130cm felling bar and need a few wedges too, thanks

I'd say Stihl's distance selling policy applies to these as much as any other Stihl product, and no reputable online retailer will ship them

They're pretty readily available in Real World Stihl agents though, I certainly bought mine in a local shop.

The Swiss file company Pferd created the thing originally, to the best of my knowledge, and can supply their own version:
https://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Files-Filing/Filing-Guides/Pferd-CS-X-Chain-Sharp-Filing-Guide---7-32.axd

CJhaughey

I like the Oregon raker guide that sits on top of the chain and you use a small flat file to dress the raker, Work well in my experience and seem to only allow a small bit to be removed depending on tooth length.