Gerkros Cosyman just Buzz's when you try to start

galait

Hi

The boiler got wet after case blew off the other night , Now it wont fire up just buzz for a few seconds when you press the red button on it ,

Help !!

Dtp1979

galait wrote: »

Hi

The boiler got wet after case blew off the other night , Now it wont fire up just buzz for a few seconds when you press the red button on it ,

Help !!

Sounds like your capacitor. Or could be water damaged. What part of the country are u in?

shane0007

galait wrote: »

Hi

The boiler got wet after case blew off the other night , Now it wont fire up just buzz for a few seconds when you press the red button on it ,

Help !!

Capacitor or seized oil pump or seized motor.
Most likely a faulty capacitor. Most service engineer's will carry all of the above & can test each to identify the issue.

galait

Midlands ,

DGOBS

DPT1979 up the post may not be far away!!

Dtp1979

galait wrote: »

Midlands ,

What part of the midlands

galait

Athlone Area

Dtp1979

galait wrote: »

Athlone Area

A good bit out of my area I'm afraid. Try the OFTEC website

galait

Cheers no bother , I located the capacitor - Would Heat Merchants or good Builder Providers carry spares

DGOBS

yes they would

Dtp1979

galait wrote: »

Cheers no bother , I located the capacitor - Would Heat Merchants or good Builder Providers carry spares

Be careful changing it. Even a disconnected capacitor can give you a nasty shock. Don't touch the terminals

galait

Guys

Went to local hardware and all they had was one capacitor for Riello 40 was slightly different spec to the one in the boiler , I have attached a photo of each , Am I ok to proceed or I have been given the wrong part , Thanks for all the help !!

crock!

galait wrote: »

Guys

Went to local hardware and all they had was one capacitor for Riello 40 was slightly different spec to the one in the boiler , I have attached a photo of each , Am I ok to proceed or I have been given the wrong part , Thanks for all the help !!

Its fine

galait

replaced it no joy , It does sound like something is seized or jammed ???

crock!

galait wrote: »

replaced it no joy , It does sound like something is seized or jammed ???

You need to call a provisional. Its either pump or motor.try call someone asap.holidays are nearly here someone could get to you on monday

esox28

The water has damaged or seized the burner.

you need to get an oftec engineer out

All the best.

scudo2

esox28 wrote: »

The water has damaged or seized the burner.

Isolate the power supply to burner.
Remove burner from boiler.
remove the fan casing on the right hand side to revel the fan.
Now turn the fan by hand should be reasonably free if not apply a small amount of wd40 or similar to the back of the fan through the small hole in the fan.
Also apply same between the oil pump and motor connection.

Reassemble, remount the burner to boiler and power on and hope for the best.

Perfect post as very few so called service engineers oil the motor, nice to see others also do but I find 3in1 oil better for bearings on motor as it copes with temperature up to 230degrees, copper grease spray for temp up to 500degrees

Billy Bunting

esox28 wrote: »

The water has damaged or seized the burner.

Isolate the power supply to burner.
Remove burner from boiler.
remove the fan casing on the right hand side to revel the fan.
Now turn the fan by hand should be reasonably free if not apply a small amount of wd40 or similar to the back of the fan through the small hole in the fan.
Also apply same between the oil pump and motor connection.

Reassemble, remount the burner to boiler and power on and hope for the best.

scudo2 wrote: »

Perfect post as very few so called service engineers oil the motor, nice to see others also do but I find 3in1 oil better for bearings on motor as it copes with temperature up to 230degrees, copper grease spray for temp up to 500degrees

Perfect post! i think not, i prefer the direction to an Oftec Engineer, do we know the capabilities of the OP enough to be directing them to start stripping a burner

agusta

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Perfect post! i think not, i prefer the direction to an Oftec Engineer, do we know the capabilities of the OP enough to be directing them to start stripping a burner

I agree 100 percent

agusta

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Perfect post! i think not, i prefer the direction to an Oftec Engineer, do we know the capabilities of the OP enough to be directing them to start stripping a burner

I agree ,even isolating the power is not as easy as it seems

I remember talking someone(RGI) through a simple problem on the phone once, it was hearing him scream that indicated that my simple instructions were not fully understood the other side of the phone:(

scudo2

agusta wrote: »

I agree ,even isolating the power is not as easy as it seems

Sorry. I only ment to complement Esox28 on him knowing his stuff on oiling motor. It one of the best ways to help burner have a happy long life.

Sometimes we all step over the line on advice, but not intently.

Changing a capacitor can be dangerous, removing oil pump and putting a drop of oil in, doesn't involve playing with electricty.
See my point. We all try to help and keep to the safe side of the line but sometimes we slip up, but not intentualy .
No offense taken if anybody polity, corrects me, cheers.

esox28

Thanks scudo for your explanation, taking all the factors into concideration such as the weekend, weather were having and the fact the op was already messing at the capacitor. The burner imo just needed a push start.

I'm not one for handing out engineering tech to public but it Christmas share the love.

Peace out.

scudo2

esox28 wrote: »

Thanks scudo for your explanation, taking all the factors into concideration such as the weekend, weather were having and the fact the op was already messing at the capacitor. The burner imo just needed a push start.

I'm not one for handing out engineering tech to public but it Christmas share the love.

Peace out.

Just trying to keep the lynch mob at bay now that Billys got his second stripe !

Billy Bunting

scudo2 wrote: »

Just trying to keep the lynch mob at bay now that Billys got his second stripe !

Come on lads, peace and good will and all that. I was simple pointing out that as we all know too much info in the wrong hands can be dangerous and once in print its here for all to see for always. Wasn't at all questioning any ones abilities.

Now let that be an end to it or its the naughty step for you.

scudo2

scudo2 wrote: »

Just trying to keep the lynch mob at bay now that Billys got his second stripe !

It's a fine line between helping and giving to much information, give to much information to a inexperienced poster and it can lead to dramas, lets not forget a leading DIY store used to give out leaflets on how to burn off hydrogen:cool: from rads until a customer of theirs burnt his house down:eek:.

If you give to little information to experienced DIYers it leads to frustration and at times anger, what level of information that should be given is hardiest thing to call but based purely on my own experiences I would always lean towards the minimum of technical information, it's better to have someone a bit angry and frustrated than having a fellow poster out of their depth.

I think if any of us get pulled up it should not be a big thing because the urge to help others is part of why we're on here but given that it is a public forum and there's one or two fruit loops out there(and I don't mean the op) I think a bit of caution is a beautiful thing, Merry Christmas

esox28

yea totally understandable Gary.

Maybe a ban on discribing works on certain equipment, just the probable cause.

Tell about burning hydrogen off rads what's that?

esox28

esox28 wrote: »

yea totally understandable Gary.

Maybe a ban on discribing works on certain equipment, just the probable cause.

Tell about burning hydrogen off rads what's that?

I prefer self restraint where possible because it's nice to be nice, I'd hate to be giving it the big one and banning things, but once advice requires things like basic electrical checks or removing covers I get nervous as not everyone can do these things in a safe manor and the the unsafe get to read the posts as well:eek:

As for DIYers, they decided to place a match to their rads and watch the pretty flame burn their home down.

scudo2

I once told another plumber/service idiot over the phone how to check the strength of a transformer on a Minor 1 over the phone, disconnect solonide, hold the two high tension leads very close together to check spark, if spark/transformer is good and strong then spark should be able to cross a 3/4" gap.



How was I to know he was holding metal ends ? !!!




He's still doing doggy work but the phone needed replacing.


No affect on his brain. !!

JamesM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

Perfect post! i think not, i prefer the direction to an Oftec Engineer, do we know the capabilities of the OP enough to be directing them to start stripping a burner

Deja Vu :eek:
I think that this is where I "Got My Coat" when this was the DIY forum 4 years ago.
Jim.

Wearb

gary71 wrote: »

As for DIYers, they decided to place a match to their rads and watch the pretty flame burn their home down.

Mmmmmmmmmmmm
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

JamesM

JamesM wrote: »

Deja Vu :eek:
I think that this is where I "Got My Coat" when this was the DIY forum 4 years ago.
Jim.

It's strange how things workout, within days of you coming back this subject comes up in a manor it hasn't since you left.

I didn't deal with it well then:o so hopefully second time round there's a better outcome:D no coats required;)

Billy Bunting

gary71 wrote: »

It's strange how things workout, within days of you coming back this subject comes up in a manor it hasn't since you left.

I didn't deal with it well then:o so hopefully second time round there's a better outcome:D no coats required;)

I didn't plan it but i recall it well, the infamous single stat :eek: This does pop up from time to time but i do think there will always be times when a reminder of our duty of care will need to be brought up. It's a hard call deciding just what should be said and to who but we all need to be aware of the danger.

I recall recently reading how someone was explaining on a boating forum just how to install a gas cooker on a boat and how it didn't require a RGI.

JamesM

Billy Bunting wrote: »

I recall recently reading how someone was explaining on a boating forum just how to install a gas cooker on a boat and how it didn't require a RGI.

I think that's when I realised who you were
JIm.

Billy Bunting

JamesM wrote: »

I think that's when I realised who you were
JIm.

Shhhhh!!

scudo2

scudo2 wrote: »

I once told another plumber/service idiot over the phone how to check the strength of a transformer on a Minor 1 over the phone, disconnect solonide, hold the two high tension leads very close together to check spark, if spark/transformer is good and strong then spark should be able to cross a 3/4" gap.



How was I to know he was holding metal ends ? !!!




He's still doing doggy work but the phone needed replacing.


No affect on his brain. !!

To crock!
This idiot lives in Ballincollig but not related !
(not me I might add but the one on the end of the HT leads)
Guess 1 of 2

PM answer please.

crock!

scudo2 wrote: »

To crock!
This idiot lives in Ballincollig but not related !
(not me I might add but the one on the end of the HT leads)
Guess 1 of 2

PM answer please.

maybe he was trying to use it as a defibrillator.haha

galait

Hi Guys ,Just back asI Was up at the inlaws for a couple of days , Anyway Isolated Power and detached from Furnace and removed the 3 screws holding the fan cover, I removed the cover and the fan was quite stiff but after a few spins it is rotating freely , I have no wd40 to hand and I just reassembled and when I try and start the fan rotating is very pronounced and the air valve opens and then it cuts out , Its like its airlocked (happened many times before) Any more ideas ??

Just tried it again and it almost fires up , It gets to igntion stage and there is heat generated for a split second it cuts out if you try it again it does not get as far , But if you leave it 5 mins it almost starts again if you try 30 seconds later it does not get as far !

pat35

galait wrote: »

Hi Guys ,Just back asI Was up at the inlaws for a couple of days , Anyway Isolated Power and detached from Furnace and removed the 3 screws holding the fan cover, I removed the cover and the fan was quite stiff but after a few spins it is rotating freely , I have no wd40 to hand and I just reassembled and when I try and start the fan rotating is very pronounced and the air valve opens and then it cuts out , Its like its airlocked (happened many times before) Any more ideas ??

Just tried it again and it almost fires up , It gets to igntion stage and there is heat generated for a split second it cuts out if you try it again it does not get as far , But if you leave it 5 mins it almost starts again if you try 30 seconds later it does not get as far !

Did you bleed the pump after you refitted burner and turn back on the oil..,

esox28

make sure photo cell is located correctly.

galait

Yes I did , Still no joy

galait

Just checked and the photocell is firmly attached

Wearb

galait wrote: »

Yes I did , Still no joy

The pronounced noise in the fan could be caused by the motor shaft spinning in the pump coupler. You could check that, but usually if damaged it indicates pump damage. You need to have a pressure gauge on the pump to observe if the pressure is reaching proper pressure during this cycle. Also check to see if you have good flow of oil arriving at pump.

galait

Just want to add that recently (past 4 to 6 weeks) the mrs had to hit the reset button to get it going - Just found that out

galait

when I try and start with the bleed valve open the vent opens and I get a good jet of fuel out , Does this rule out the oil pump ?

Wearb

galait wrote: »

when I try and start with the bleed valve open the vent opens and I get a good jet of fuel out , Does this rule out the oil pump ?

It doesn't rule out pump or coupler. If you are sure of what you are doing, take off the pump and check the smooth rotation of pump shaft and for even slightest damage to coupler. If you had gauge this would be easier to check with pump in place.

It could be another problem entirely.

galait

This is beyond my comfort zone, I was hoping it was something simple , I will have to concentrate on the Stove and electric heaters to get us over the next few days - Thanks all and happy xmas

Wearb

galait wrote: »

This is beyond my comfort zone, I was hoping it was something simple , I will have to concentrate on the Stove and electric heaters to get us over the next few days - Thanks all and happy xmas

It is good to know when to stop. Just check it later to make sure you have no leaks. Then light a nice stove fire and enjoy Christmas.

galait

Just on the way out to shed I noticed the reset button was illuminated , I pressed it and she started ! A lot of black smoke but there is flame . I know it is still not right - Will I let it go and see what happens ?

** Disaster ** The Black smoke last about 10 mins and then pop , It has tripped the fuse . Game Over for this burner I would Imagine...

Wearb

galait wrote: »

Just on the way out to shed I noticed the reset button was illuminated , I pressed it and she started ! A lot of black smoke but there is flame . I know it is still not right - Will I let it go and see what happens ?

** Disaster ** The Black smoke last about 10 mins and then pop , It has tripped the fuse . Game Over for this burner I would Imagine...

:eek:

Don't write off the burner yet. Wait until someone has a look. I very rarely replace a burner. Almost always cheaper to repair.

jimf

I would think you have gone as far as you can yourself a new burner fitted and set up properly will set you back approx. 450eu

so don't be in a rush to spend all that money until you get a professional opinion