Twin fused spur switch

funkey_monkey

Is it not possible to get a twin version of a fused spur switch:

tomdempsey200

for what purpose?

funkey_monkey

Cooker hood and tumble dryer switches are located adjacent to each other on wall. Spark has installed a both switches side by side and I would prefer them to be located on a single faceplate.

tomdempsey200

i'd say mk do a grid switch that will fit 2 isolating switches into a box

unfused isolating switches will do on a kitchen radial circuit with the appliances connected to 13amp sockets

tomdempsey200

http://www.mkelectric.com/en-ar/Products/WD/modular/gridplus/Printedmodulesneon/Pages/K4896NCH.aspx

mk seem to do a range of the these with the appliance labelled on them

they would do if the circuits are radial and the appliances are connected to sockets

the box would have to be 2m max from any appliance

preferably 1 circuit for the box...i think you're supposed to put a warning inside the box otherwise


i don't think you'd get 2 13amp switched spurs for a 1 gang box

funkey_monkey

Okay, it's not working out for me.

What I have is a gas cooker located beside a tumble dryer. The tumble dryer has an unswitched socket on the wall and an isolation switch further up the wall (above a worktop) alongside an isolation switch for a cooker fan.

The cooker has been updated, but the new gas cooker requires mains power for the igniters and clock. It is just a 13A supply required as both the hob and ovens are gas powered.

My initial idea was to feed the power from the cooker up the conduit up and across and take the power from the fan isolation switch. However, I'm not sure if this is feasible for a number of reasons.

Now I think that the best option is to just tap into the power at the socket. I could either put an adaptor on the socket and connect the two plugs (tumble dryer and cooker) into that. However, I'm not sure if that is the best way.

The sneaky way would be to connect the tumble dryer and cooker into one plug. I should state here that the tumble dryer is very rarely used.

Any other ideas which do not involve tracking into the wall or replacing the single socket with a double socket below the worktop?

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Now I think that the best option is to just tap into the power at the socket.

I assume it a single socket ?

I could either put an adaptor on the socket and connect the two plugs (tumble dryer and cooker) into that.

To change a single socket to a double?
A "double adapter" is not good to use with a load the size of a tumble dryer on a long term basis in my opinion.

The sneaky way would be to connect the tumble dryer and cooker into one plug.

Common enough, but not good practice.

I should state here that the tumble dryer is very rarely used.

Irrelevant.
This should never be used to justify an electrical design decision.

Any other ideas which do not involve tracking into the wall or replacing the single socket with a double socket below the worktop?

There are sockets that are designed to change a single socket to a double that still use a single back box. I bought these in Eurosales, but I am sure many other electrical wholesalers sell them too.

funkey_monkey

2011 wrote: »

I assume it a single socket ?

Yes. Looks like:

A "double adapter" is not good to use with a load the size of a tumble dryer on a long term basis in my opinion.

It would be my last resort, but I would splice before doing that.

There are sockets that are designed to change a single socket to a double that still use a single back box. I bought these in Eurosales, but I am sure many other electrical wholesalers sell them too.

I like the look of that and it seems like the easiest solution - thanks. Can these be obtained unswitched? I done a check on Google but none came up.

This should never be used to justify an electrical design decision.

I only stated this in relation to splicing. In reality how would splicing differ to using a single-to-double socket converter?

funkey_monkey

Only realised that I could purchase the back plate and front separately so I could get what I asked about above.

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

It would be my last resort, but I would splice before doing that.

I would not do this.

I like the look of that and it seems like the easiest solution - thanks. Can these be obtained unswitched?

No idea.
I bought them in Eurosales yonks ago, give them a buzz (01) 2959611

I only stated this in relation to splicing. In reality how would splicing differ to using a single-to-double socket converter?

What do you mean by splicing?

funkey_monkey

2011 wrote: »

What do you mean by splicing?

Two leads into one plug. I.e. connect the tumble dryer power lead and cooker power lead into one plug.

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Two leads into one plug. I.e. connect the tumble dryer power lead and cooker power lead into one plug.

OK, I see.

In reality how would splicing differ to using a single-to-double socket converter?

I assume you are referring to the double socket that fits on a single box?

By installing a double socket the load would be split between 2 plugs, so each plug would be carrying a reduced load. It is not uncommon for a plug that is carrying a large load (such as a tumble dryer) to overheat and melt. Individual plugs significantly reduce this risk. A socket such as this

In addition the terminals in plugs are not designed to have two cables connected into them and plugs are not designed to be reassembled with two power leads connected into them.

As a professional I would consider connecting two leads into a plug to be very bad practice, particularly when one of the leads is connected to a large load.

funkey_monkey

I take it that these are suitable components:

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/switches-sockets/junction-mounting-boxes/boxes/-specificproducttype-double_boxes/MK-Double-Moulded-Back-Box-White-16mm-9289734?skuId=9299433

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/switches-sockets/white-switches-sockets/sockets/-specificproducttype-double_sockets/MK-Unswitched-Double-Socket-DP-13A-White-9289618?skuId=9299317

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I take it that these are suitable components:

The socket is perfect, MK make high quality components.

The box will do the job.
I would prefer to use a deeper box that is made from PVC, the one in the picture is Bakelite which can be quite brittle.

I assume that you know that this is a surface type box and not flush?

funkey_monkey

The reason I was not opting for the deeper box was to avoid it protruding as much as possible so that the tumble dryer could be pushed back into position without fouling against it.

I assume that you know that this is a surface type box and not flush?

Not sure what you mean by this. However, my intention is this: Current setup under the worktop is a single unswitched socket - which has the single box and conduit tracked into the wall. Hence the socket sits flush to the wall. I was going to centre the double box onto the surface of the wall over the single box and wire into the double unswitched socket linked above.
There is an isolation switch above the worktop.

2011

The box you showed is designed to be surface mounted.
It sounds like the existing box finishes flush with the wall.
If I were doing this I would install a flush twin metal box (this would mean a little chasing would be required).

funkey_monkey

2011 wrote: »

The box you showed is designed to be surface mounted.
It sounds like the existing box finishes flush with the wall.
If I were doing this I would install a flush twin metal box (this would mean a little chasing would be required).

Thanks - but I'm getting confused now. You told me you done:

There are sockets that are designed to change a single socket to a double that still use a single back box. I bought these in Eurosales, but I am sure many other electrical wholesalers sell them too.

Are we talking about different things here?

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I'm getting confused

I will clarify, suggestion 1:

Replace the existing single socket with a double socket using the existing flush mounted single box. There is a special socket is specifically designed for this.

Suggestion 2:

A more standard method, replace the existing single socket and box with a double socket and twin box.

funkey_monkey

2011 wrote: »

I will clarify, suggestion 1:

Replace the existing single socket with a double socket using the existing flush mounted single box. There is a special socket is specifically designed for this.

I take it you mean one of these:


Or one of these:



If the second one is acceptable then does it really need the earth banding in the centre? The one I can get from local supplier (B&Q) does not have this. It only has an earth clamp in the corner (see links in post 13: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=88266565&postcount=13).

The links I have on that post (I think) allow me to replicate the above but have unswitched sockets below the worktop.

The converter B&Q stock is: http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/switches-sockets/white-switches-sockets/sockets/-specificproducttype-conversion_sockets/Volex-Switched-Double-Socket-Conversion-Kit-SP-13A-White-9289628?skuId=9299327

Both ways are similar in price. The onlu difference i can see is whether I need to have the sockets switched or unswitched. Any opinion on this. My understanding is that the switches will rarely be used as they will be behind the tumble dryer and there is an isolation switch above the worktop.

Thanks for all the replies.

2011

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I take it you mean one of these:

Exactly.

If the second one is acceptable then does it really need the earth banding in the centre?

If the new box is conductive (metal) it should be earthed.
From the photo it looks like it is plastic to me.


The links I have on that post (I think) allow me to replicate the above but have unswitched sockets below the worktop.

Both ways are similar in price. The onlu difference i can see is whether I need to have the sockets switched or unswitched. Any opinion on this.

Personal preference really. There is no right or wrong with this, it is personal preference really.

funkey_monkey

I went with the first one.

Guy in B&Q was gurning at me about having them together of the same feed, but I explained to him that the power to the cooker was only to fire the igniters as it was a fully gas cooker.

Thanks