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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Don't forget to put a fuse between the battery and 30. 10 amps should be plenty.


    I should have mentioned, the relay has a built in fuse. Its 30 amp


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    That's very high, your whole charging circuit and the entire electrical supply for the bike (except starter) is usually on a 30A fuse. If it's a blade-type fuse you can probably change it for a lower rating. What current (or watts) rating are the grips?

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭DubVelo


    While ye are talking electric; battery is showing a healthy 12.8V but hooking up a 21W light bulb (indicator or something) drops the voltage to 6.6V. It's shagged isn't it?

    Obviously it's not starting the bike - doesn't even turn over, I just wanted to make sure it's not another problem before I fork out for a new one. I was a bit confused by the healthy voltage and a week ago it started on the button.


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    That's abnormal. The only reason the voltage could drop so much on a small load like that is if the internal resistance of the battery is way too high. Either the plates are sulphated and knackered, or the electrolyte level is way way down. In either case the battery will shortly be pining for the fjords, shuffling off this mortal coil, going to meet its maker, running down the curtain pole and singing with the choir invisible.

    We are talking motorcycle batteries, aren't we, not something for the lights on your 'velo' :pac: because only a battery with very small amp-hour capacity (or, very small amp-hour capacity remaining due to old age and being shagged out) could have a voltage drop like that.

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    That's very high, your whole charging circuit and the entire electrical supply for the bike (except starter) is usually on a 30A fuse. If it's a blade-type fuse you can probably change it for a lower rating. What current (or watts) rating are the grips?

    Quoting myself :rolleyes:

    But that's actually dangerous. Look at how thick the wires coming off your alternator, or going to/from your rec/reg are. That's what can handle 30 amps. Now look at the wiring of your grips. If 30 amps went through that wiring due to a fault (and, usually with automotive fuses, you need 50% over the rated current for quite a long time to actually blow them, so more like 45A) the relatively thin wiring would heat up, and potentially cause a fire.

    Fuses in vehicles, or in your home, aren't there to prevent electric shock, they're to prevent overloaded wiring going up in flames.

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Quoting myself :rolleyes:

    But that's actually dangerous. Look at how thick the wires coming off your alternator, or going to/from your rec/reg are. That's what can handle 30 amps. Now look at the wiring of your grips. If 30 amps went through that wiring due to a fault (and, usually with automotive fuses, you need 50% over the rated current for quite a long time to actually blow them, so more like 45A) the relatively thin wiring would heat up, and potentially cause a fire.

    Fuses in vehicles, or in your home, aren't there to prevent electric shock, they're to prevent overloaded wiring going up in flames.

    The relay came with a 30 amp blade fuse. I have a 10 amp fuse so ill change it fro that.

    https://cdn3.louis.de/content/catalogue/articles/zusatz/anl/10032048_MONT_GB_14.pdf

    The instructions recommend a 7.5 amp fuse. Will I get away with a 10 amp?


  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭DubVelo


    We are talking motorcycle batteries, aren't we, not something for the lights on your 'velo' :pac: because only a battery with very small amp-hour capacity (or, very small amp-hour capacity remaining due to old age and being shagged out) could have a voltage drop like that.

    Yep, it's the 'moto' alright! :p Supposed to be 8Ah.
    I'll admit I hadn't been using it much and I only picked up a charger last week.
    What I don't understand is how last Saturday after being on charge overnight it was insta-start, hit the button and VROOM! The other day I did a 20 min trip, came back to the bike and found it dead as a dodo. The only thing was I'd had the dipped beam on and I remember thinking something smelled a bit hot before I pulled in. The battery felt cold when I came back to the bike though, I'd only stopped for 2 mins.

    Can I bump start it and test the reg/rec or would I need a new battery before I do that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    The relay came with a 30 amp blade fuse. I have a 10 amp fuse so ill change it fro that.

    https://cdn3.louis.de/content/catalogue/articles/zusatz/anl/10032048_MONT_GB_14.pdf

    The instructions recommend a 7.5 amp fuse. Will I get away with a 10 amp?

    10 amp is close enough. A lot better than 30, there is a +/- 10% tolerance applied to most electrical ratings as a matter of course, plus a safety margin on top. The fuses are pretty crude devices, and usually don't blow unless the overload is pretty large, and it needs to be sustained for long enough to heat the fuse up enough to melt it. But if the fuse rating is reasonably close to what its wiring can handle, it'll still be the first point of failure - as it should be.

    DubVelo wrote: »
    Yep, it's the 'moto' alright! :p Supposed to be 8Ah.
    I'll admit I hadn't been using it much and I only picked up a charger last week.
    What I don't understand is how last Saturday after being on charge overnight it was insta-start, hit the button and VROOM! The other day I did a 20 min trip, came back to the bike and found it dead as a dodo. The only thing was I'd had the dipped beam on and I remember thinking something smelled a bit hot before I pulled in. The battery felt cold when I came back to the bike though, I'd only stopped for 2 mins.

    Can I bump start it and test the reg/rec or would I need a new battery before I do that?

    You can test the generator without a new battery. But unless there's an obvious charging system fault, chances are the battery is past its prime.

    Connect a DC voltmeter across the battery, ignition swiched off - voltage should be at least 12.2
    Same at idling rev - 12.2V minimum
    As the revs rise - voltage should increase, then hit the limit of the regulator, 14.5 volts at most. Different bikes reach this at different revs, but there will be a point where the voltage stops increasing and the regulator kicks in.

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    'Something smelled a bit hot' what was that?

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭DubVelo


    'Something smelled a bit hot' what was that?

    No idea. :confused:
    Was a vaguely plasticy smell. It was only just before I pulled in.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Given that you're having electrical problems, a burning smell is really not a good sign!

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,363 ✭✭✭gerrowadat


    Fair blowy out. I picked some day to be picking up my first bike and riding it down the dualler in a crosswind :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭DubVelo


    Careful now!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Ok im on the home straight. One last thing just to clarify. My easiest option would be to ground into the green wire feeding the headlight. There is a green blue and white wire. According to the Honda diagram the green wire is ground. Failing that I can feed it back to the negative terminal on the battery but this already has 3 O ring connections on it so space is tight. So can I just tap into the green ground wire in the headlight?


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Usually best not to mess with the standard wiring too much. If there are three connectors there then there must be some aftermarket wiring already there? Better to connect into that. You might be able to crimp two wires into one ring connector?

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Usually best not to mess with the standard wiring too much. If there are three connectors there then there must be some aftermarket wiring already there? Better to connect into that. You might be able to crimp two wires into one ring connector?

    The other O ring connectors connected to the positive & negative are from the Reg/Rec. Could I have just spliced into these? It would have been handier if I can.

    I got it all connected and fitted. Connected back up the fuel tank and battery. Switched her on and.........................NOTHING. Tried it on start and ON but it didnt heat in the slightest.:( Ive had enough today ill strip it down on monday and have another pop.


  • Registered Users Posts: 35,064 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Three connectors on your negative terminal can't all be stock wiring.

    Do the grips work if you bridge 30 and 87 on the relay with a wire?

    Is there 12V on 86 when the rear light is on?

    © 1982 Sinclair Research Ltd



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Three connectors on your negative terminal can't all be stock wiring.

    Do the grips work if you bridge 30 and 87 on the relay with a wire?

    Is there 12V on 86 when the rear light is on?


    Whoa slow down. Not only do I look like Homer Simpson I also have his brain power:P

    On the Neg terminal there is the original wire. When I fitted a MOSFET REG/REC I connected up another wire to the negative terminal. I just fitted another connection to the negative terminal coming from the relay. SO thats 3 connections going to the negative terminal on the battery.

    Ill try bridging 30 and 87 when I get a chance again. I take it ill need to use a multimeter to see if there is 12v on 86?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 12,778 Mod ✭✭✭✭Zascar


    I lost my alarm fob yesterday. So annoyed. Must have jumped out of my pocket. On the advice of the guys I bought the bike from, and bikeworkd, I keep the bike key and alarm fob separate. They said if you have them together it may get damaged or wet. Is this true? Anyway I had the Datatol alarm fob and the beeper for my underground carpark together - they always stay in my jacket pocket. Went up to get the bike cleaned but it was gone out of my jacket. Had to leave the bike there. Thankfully I have a spare. The lads on the fireblade forum say those alarms are useless and I should take it out, but I'm very reluctant as its another deterrent, even the tilt sensor is a good thing to have


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 24,878 ✭✭✭✭arybvtcw0eolkf


    I haven't watched this one yet (have it on my YT 'watch later' list).. But its an Irish guy who takes tours from Alaska to Argentina on a BMW R1100GS



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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,013 ✭✭✭✭Wonda-Boy


    Zascar wrote: »
    I lost my alarm fob yesterday. So annoyed. Must have jumped out of my pocket. On the advice of the guys I bought the bike from, and bikeworkd, I keep the bike key and alarm fob separate. They said if you have them together it may get damaged or wet. Is this true? Anyway I had the Datatol alarm fob and the beeper for my underground carpark together - they always stay in my jacket pocket. Went up to get the bike cleaned but it was gone out of my jacket. Had to leave the bike there. Thankfully I have a spare. The lads on the fireblade forum say those alarms are useless and I should take it out, but I'm very reluctant as its another deterrent, even the tilt sensor is a good thing to have

    Was the bike yourself and you would not have this problem....lol.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea




    I have no words:eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea




    I have no words:eek:


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,013 ✭✭✭✭Wonda-Boy


    Well if you look at his screen at 2:58 (I think) he does have a sticker saying "I DONT STOP FOR COPS"....lad is just true to his word, y'all.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    Meh... 1 star offense in GTA :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,013 ✭✭✭✭Wonda-Boy


    zubair wrote: »
    Meh... 1 star offense in GTA :P

    Yeah, LMAO...classic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,224 ✭✭✭goodlad


    Richard Tea .... Did you just give your bike to a pro yet for them grips or have you set the bike on fire yet? :p


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    goodlad wrote: »
    Richard Tea .... Did you just give your bike to a pro yet for them grips or have you set the bike on fire yet? :p


    :pac::pac::pac:Time aint on my side. I havent touched the bike since the other day. I have a free hour or 2 later though. Depends on how I feel, its a bit nippy outside:cool:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,224 ✭✭✭goodlad


    :pac::pac::pac:Time aint on my side. I havent touched the bike since the other day. I have a free hour or 2 later though. Depends on how I feel, its a bit nippy outside:cool:


    Sure that's why you need the grips working :rolleyes:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    goodlad wrote: »
    Sure that's why you need the grips working :rolleyes:


    Im 95% sure I wired the grips up correctly. Once I lay the grips and wiring out over the bike it was alot easier to understand. I did use the scotchloks that came with the grips so ill double check these first. There is always the chance they didnt cut into the wire properly.


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