Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

New Mains Stop Cock for House

  • 02-03-2014 11:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭


    Whats a reasonable price I should expect to pay for fitting a new mains stop cock. Will get the part myself.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    It should be a straight forward job in around the €50-€80 region


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    danjo-xx wrote: »
    Whats a reasonable price I should expect to pay for fitting a new mains stop cock. Will get the part myself.

    Under the sink or under the footpath ?

    Two totaly different type of jobs labour wise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Under the sink or under the footpath ?

    Two totaly different type of jobs labour wise.

    under the sink


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Managed to free it up myself :)

    Mains supply is in ½” copper pipe so I guess a ½” stock cock would be used if replacing existing one but...

    Funny thing is the compression nuts on existing stop cock take a 32mm spanner where as a ½” compression nut only takes a 24mm Spanner.

    Are there special nuts used on a mains stop cock, or should a 3/4 stock cock be used even though its only 1/2" pipe.

    MAINSSTOPCOCKYELLOWRD_zpsd5e34632.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    It looks like a 3/4 332 which would be norm on mains.
    Not sure looking at it if it's 1/2 reducing set on top of valve.
    Best replacement is a 3/4 332 with a 3/4-1/2 310 on top of valve


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    It looks like a 3/4 332 which would be norm on mains.
    Not sure looking at it if it's 1/2 reducing set on top of valve.
    Best replacement is a 3/4 332 with a 3/4-1/2 310 on top of valve

    aw right I always thought 1/2" was the norm to match the 1/2" copper pipe hopefully I wont have to replace this one now its freed up. Just hope gland nut doesn't start leaking now I loosened it slightly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    The mains are 1/2 inside diameter which normally used is either 1/2 normal gauge hydrodare or 1/2 heavy gauge hydrodare but both go into 3/4 fittings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    I'm finding it difficult to open and close the stopcock as I don't have the strength anymore, I can do it but its too much hassle and effort.

    I've read that the stop cock works like a belt n braces, ie it can stop back flow and so is better than a lever ball valve.

    Is it ok to keep the stopcock and just fit a Lever ball valve over it, for ease of use and any emergencies, I can't see why not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    danjo-xx wrote: »
    I'm finding it difficult to open and close the stopcock as I don't have the strength anymore, I can do it but its too much hassle and effort.

    I've read that the stop cock works like a belt n braces, ie it can stop back flow and so is better than a lever ball valve.

    Is it ok to keep the stopcock and just fit a Lever ball valve over it, for ease of use and any emergencies, I can't see why not.

    Ye a lever valve is grand. I always use them. They don't get stiff, rarely pass water when closed and can be shut off instantaneously


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Ye a lever valve is grand. I always use them. They don't get stiff, rarely pass water when closed and can be shut off instantaneously


    thanks Dtp, I see there is two types of lever ball valves, the standard one and a full flow, which is best.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    danjo-xx wrote: »
    thanks Dtp, I see there is two types of lever ball valves, the standard one and a full flow, which is best.

    Go with full flow


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Go with full flow

    Will 'full flow' valve allow me to reduce the water pressure by turning it down a bit or is it strictly on or off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    danjo-xx wrote: »
    Will 'full flow' valve allow me to reduce the water pressure by turning it down a bit or is it strictly on or off.

    Install a pressure reducing valve after the valve if pressure is an issue


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    A full flow valve allows the passage of same amount of water as existing pipe allows. (IF turned fully on)

    A non full flow valve will allow slightly less water to flow than the pipes capacity even when fully open.

    Is this right.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    danjo-xx wrote: »
    A full flow valve allows the passage of same amount of water as existing pipe allows. (IF turned fully on)

    A non full flow valve will allow slightly less water to flow than the pipes capacity even when fully open.

    Is this right.

    Yes your fairly right. Unless the valve severely reduces the water passage then it's not going to matter


Advertisement