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Extract brewing

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  • 12-03-2014 3:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭


    Can someone point me to a good introduction to extract brewing? Or give me the five line overview?

    I want to brew a nice, hoppy ale. I currently know about the specifics of brewing beer or ale other than if I want to go beyond kits, extract is probably the next step.


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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    http://www.beoir.org/index.php/brewing-knowledge/extract-brewing-mainmenu-47

    Good articles there. Extract is not more difficult, just has different steps than a kit.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    The Homebrew Company sells extract kits, and the Discover America one tasted great when adamski8 did it. It's a good way of learning the process without having to worry about recipe formulation.

    For recipe formulation it's best to get some brewing software. I use BeerTools Pro.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    OK, slight noob question here - Do I need to buy a boiler? I mean could I use, say, 10L pot, do it up in that, then water it down in the fermentation vessel? (edit: I see this is possible from the beoir guide
    "If you don't have a pot or boiler big enough to boil the whole volume you want, then you can do a partial boil, but you'll need to top up with cool water. I use an 18 litre water cooler bottle for fermenting, and can boil 11 litres in a large stock pot, so I need at least 7 litres of water for topping up. "

    I seem to remember someone mentioning a large boiling pot that they bought in Dublin city for reasonable money before. Does anyone know where I can get one? I would prefer one that I can stick on the gas hob if possible.

    Also, is this a very smelly process? I would expect kickback if it is. :) (I note that the guy in the beoir guide is doing it outdoors)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    Theres no more odour than any other type of cooking. Switch on your extractor fan to deal with the steam.

    Heatons usually have big pots, the bigger the boil the better for hop utilisation etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭macnug


    Khannie wrote: »
    OK, slight noob question here - Do I need to buy a boiler? I mean could I use, say, 10L pot, do it up in that, then water it down in the fermentation vessel? (edit: I see this is possible from the beoir guide

    I seem to remember someone mentioning a large boiling pot that they bought in Dublin city for reasonable money before. Does anyone know where I can get one? I would prefer one that I can stick on the gas hob if possible.

    Also, is this a very smelly process? I would expect kickback if it is. :) (I note that the guy in the beoir guide is doing it outdoors)

    I'd say if you have the money get a boiler. I used to do the partial boil but I found that towards the end of the boil the malt used to caramelise, which will make the beer darker and make the malt harder to ferment. And there's the hop utilization too. There are a few ways around this but if you have the money save yourself the hassle and buy a boiler.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    drumswan wrote: »
    Theres no more odour than any other type of cooking. Switch on your extractor fan to deal with the steam.

    Heatons usually have big pots, the bigger the boil the better for hop utilisation etc.

    Thanks.

    This one is 20 euro on the heatons site and looks like it will hold about 15-16L while boiling (if my maths is right - total volume is 17L, but it doesn't say if that's inside or outside so I'd guess outside).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    macnug wrote: »
    I'd say if you have the money get a boiler. I used to do the partial boil but I found that towards the end of the boil the malt used to caramelise, which will make the beer darker and make the malt harder to ferment. And there's the hop utilization too. There are a few ways around this but if you have the money save yourself the hassle and buy a boiler.

    I use one of these. I saw an offer for a boiler & wort chiller for <100 somewhere recently.

    https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/33lt-boiler-pack-includes-hop-strainer-p-576.html

    I steep the grains in a pot in about 3-5L of water, then chuck it in the boiler.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    macnug wrote: »
    I'd say if you have the money get a boiler. I used to do the partial boil but I found that towards the end of the boil the malt used to caramelise, which will make the beer darker and make the malt harder to ferment. And there's the hop utilization too. There are a few ways around this but if you have the money save yourself the hassle and buy a boiler.

    Hmmmmm.

    I don't want to splash the 75 euro on a boiler just yet. That 20 euro stock pot looks decent enough and if I move on to a boiler it would still get use for stew and so on.

    What was the size of the partial v's full brew that you were doing?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    Ive done partial boils in an 11L pot, topping them up to 19 or 20 litres. The beer came out much darker than target SRM.

    Small batch brewing is another option, Ive had great results with this. 10 boil using 2x5L demijohns as fermentation vessels.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Khannie wrote: »
    I seem to remember someone mentioning a large boiling pot that they bought in Dublin city for reasonable money before.
    Living Island on Talbot Street does a 19L pot for €18.

    Even if you do eventually buy a boiler (I decided after six brews, several awkward chilling sessions and one nasty high-gravity boilover that I needed one) you'll still need a stockpot for steeping grains.

    You will get a lot of steam if you brew indoors, but it's easy enough to test if your extractor is up to it by boiling the pot full of water for an hour and see what happens. It could be worth knowing what to expect before you're in the middle of a brewday and can't see your hand in front of your face.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 299 ✭✭Hingo


    I got the 21 L pot from HBC - use about 13-15 ltrs to boil (leaving room for boil-overs) and top up with cold water (using ice baths in the sink to chill and getting the rest of the temp sown with about 10 L water from the fridge. ) It grand but for me I'm kinda thinking I should've just went and got a decent boiler. Looking to start maybe doin brew-in-a-bag towards the end of the year and a decent boiler with temp control will be a good investment for Extract and BIAB (otherwise I'm on an electric hob in the kitchen :( :pac: )

    If you have any similar ambitions, I'd say you might be better off looking at a good boiler/Wort Chiller as a long term investment.

    If you happy to stay on Extract brewing for the foreseeable future then the smaller pots should be grand, no need for a wort chiller and most recipes I've done say 13L Boil is acceptable for good hop utilisation


  • Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭macnug


    Khannie wrote: »
    Hmmmmm.

    I don't want to splash the 75 euro on a boiler just yet. That 20 euro stock pot looks decent enough and if I move on to a boiler it would still get use for stew and so on.

    What was the size of the partial v's full brew that you were doing?

    Thats fair enough, I was of the same opinion at the time myself, just looking back I wished I had of got a boiler. 11lt(i think) but you lose a lot during the boil, then topped it up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭Knifey Spoony


    I got the HBC boiler and wort chiller combo in the mail today. Very happy with the boiler. It seems very solid and sturdy . Hoping to get a test boil going in it over the weekend. The chiller seems a bit on the small side, but will probably still do the job.

    Hoping to throw on my first extract brew next weekend. It's going to be an American style, single hop pale ale with Amarillo and caramel malt.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    The chiller seems a bit on the small side, but will probably still do the job.
    I don't know that chiller, but the important thing with immersion chillers is to give it a swirl every couple of minutes (pick it up by the in-pipe) so it chills evenly. It can halve the chilling time, I learned. Eventually :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,557 ✭✭✭Knifey Spoony


    Yeah I was planning on doing something like that alright. Think I've seen you mention that at some stage before. Gonna give the whole setup a test before I go "live" with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    So just verifying - I have all the kit for brewing cider. The only other things I need for an extract brew are a stock pot and thermometer, is that correct?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    You'll need a method of chilling, and if you're steeping speciality grains some muslin or cheesecloth.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    If I'm doing a partial boil, would adding chilled, sanitised water be enough?

    How important is it to get the temperature down very quickly?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,748 ✭✭✭✭Lovely Bloke


    Khannie wrote: »
    If I'm doing a partial boil, would adding chilled, sanitised water be enough?

    How important is it to get the temperature down very quickly?

    It depends on how much water you are adding.

    I've found that going from a boiling 10 litre wort, and adding 10 more litres of water that has been in a freezer for a couple of hours to drop the temp to about 75degrees or so.

    It then takes a good hour in an ice bath to get the wort down into the 20, and longer into the late teens to pitch the yeast.

    where is your ice bath going to be? The bath in the bathroom? an outdoor bath/box full of water? It's amazing the speed that the water heats up outside the fermenter as the heat dissipates, you need to keep adding ice or cold water, otherwise your fermenter is just sitting with 75 degree wort in a lukewarm or even warm bath.

    The bath in the bathroom holds more water, but there are poo particles in there :(

    the you have the added temptation to keep checking the temperature, could introduce infection this way too


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    Well that all sounds like a lot of hassle. What if I just leave it to passively cool overnight? Will this negatively affect it in some way?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    You will buy a chiller eventually, it cuts at least an hour, sometimes several hours of your brew day


  • Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭macnug


    Khannie wrote: »
    If I'm doing a partial boil, would adding chilled, sanitised water be enough?

    How important is it to get the temperature down very quickly?

    In my experience just adding cold water was not enough. you dont want to pitch the yeast in wort any higher than 25c. I found about 15-20 min in an ice/cold water bath (changing the water every so often) would bring the undiluted wort down to < 50c, once its below 50c, topping up will give you a better chance of getting below 25c filled, of course this depends on temp of tap water/time of year.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,748 ✭✭✭✭Lovely Bloke


    macnug wrote: »
    In my experience just adding cold water was not enough. you dont want to pitch the yeast in wort any higher than 25c. I found about 15-20 min in an ice/cold water bath (changing the water every so often) would bring the undiluted wort down to < 50c, once its below 50c, topping up will give you a better chance of getting below 25c filled, of course this depends on temp of tap water/time of year.

    never thought of doing it this way. But we have a chiller we are using for the first time tomorrow.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Khannie wrote: »
    Well that all sounds like a lot of hassle.
    It is, most any way you slice it.
    Khannie wrote: »
    What if I just leave it to passively cool overnight? Will this negatively affect it in some way?
    It is a done thing, especially in Australia. Search around for no-chill brewing and you'll find lots of information on it I'm sure. The two big issues I'd say are infection risk and cloudiness, though the latter is more of a cosmetic thing.

    If you're fairly sure you're going to keep brewing, get a chiller.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    Hmmmm. 60 euro. It's not a small amount.

    For now I think I'll go with the stock pot you mentioned, partial boil, chilled water and otherwise passive cooling.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Handy types make them from copper piping wrapped around a paint tin. I'm sure there are loads of how-tos online.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,609 ✭✭✭dasdog


    BeerNut wrote: »
    I don't know that chiller, but the important thing with immersion chillers is to give it a swirl every couple of minutes (pick it up by the in-pipe) so it chills evenly. It can halve the chilling time, I learned. Eventually :o

    Perhaps I'm overdoing it but I swirl the chiller every 30 seconds or so. Temp can be felt rapidly rising on the outlet side after creating convection currents so as above don’t grasp by that side. I’m starting to view it as a challenge bringing the cooling time down :)
    Khannie wrote: »
    Hmmmm. 60 euro. It's not a small amount.

    For now I think I'll go with the stock pot you mentioned, partial boil, chilled water and otherwise passive cooling.

    It's a one off buy that should in theory last a lifetime. Also factor in garden hose, connectors etc if you don't already have them. ALDI were doing offers around this time last year on the bits and pieces.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    dasdog wrote: »
    Perhaps I'm overdoing it but I swirl the chiller every 30 seconds or so. Temp can be felt rapidly rising on the outlet side after creating convection currents so as above don’t grasp by that side. I’m starting to view it as a challenge bringing the cooling time down :)

    Sounds like the kind of thing that could be automated with a modicum of effort.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,485 ✭✭✭✭Khannie


    is there much of a quality difference between spray malt and liquid malt extract?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,748 ✭✭✭✭Lovely Bloke


    Just finished a brew day

    Made a basic red ale recipe, we made this last time too, so just want to make sure we can make a similar brew consistently, we opened a brew we made 6 weeks ago, bottled 3 weeks ago, it's a pretty decent red ale, nothing exciting, nothing groundbreaking, but nice enough. If we can replicate it with today's brew I'll be happy, then we start tweaking it.

    We also did our first "half brew" - a 5 litre boil, topped up with 5 litres cold water. We lost about 2 litres of the boil to evaporation, and with 3 litres in the burco we had to cut the boil short by about 15 minutes. This is going to be a Black IPA, dry hopped with Challanger and Magnum for a week before bottling.

    But the big revelation of today was the copper immersion chiller. Couldn't believe the time it took to chill the big brew - we're talking a 10 litre boil, topped up with another 10 litres of water from the freezer, FV into a box filled with water and ice packs, and the chiller into the FV. It took about ten minutes to get it from 50 to 18 degrees, amazed by that. I think it's worth the outlay, bearing in mind there are 6 of us all chipping in.


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