Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Low Voltage Distribution at Home

Options
  • 19-03-2014 2:55pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Two questions.

    Are there any regulations or anything i need to be aware of for running my own low voltage supply to each room in the house? I am thinking in the region of 12-24v but would want to push this as high as i can while keeping within the bounds of what i'm allowed to do.

    As i understand it anything that is to be wired into the mains needs to be done by a certified electrician i.e. anything thats not plugged in to a socket. Is this correct or a generalisation i've picked up somewhere?

    Thanks


«13

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,088 ✭✭✭SpaceTime


    Just be careful, some people make the mistake of thinking low voltage = no risk.

    There's no risk of electric shock, but there's a significant fire hazard with low voltage systems that are carrying large amounts of power.

    I've seen low voltage halogen light wiring literally melt where inadequate wiring was used.

    You'll also have issues with voltage drop over long runs of wire and you'll need to use heavier gauge wires.

    What are you connecting to this proposed system and could you step the 230V down locally instead?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    Are there any regulations or anything i need to be aware of for running my own low voltage supply to each room in the house? I am thinking in the region of 12-24v but would want to push this as high as i can while keeping within the bounds of what i'm allowed to do.

    What do you mean by "keeping within the bounds of what i'm allowed to do"?

    As far as I know there is nothing in the Restricted Works Decision Paper about 12 or 24V supplies somehow being exempt (if that is what you mean).

    The work will still have to comply with ET101, be carried out by a registered electrical contractor and be certified.

    As i understand it anything that is to be wired into the mains needs to be done by a certified electrician i.e. anything thats not plugged in to a socket. Is this correct or a generalisation i've picked up somewhere?

    Have a read of the Restricted Works Decision Paper (link above), that should clear it up for you.

    Leaving the Restricted Works aside, this is really not a good idea.
    As SpaceTime has stated above there are risks and disadvantages associated with a 12 or 24V distribution system. This is why it never "caught on".


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    In each room there'll be a remote radiator valve which operates on 24v ac/dc and has a startup current of 250mA and operational on 125mA. There will also be a sensor node which i hope will be in the region of 100mA @ 5v.

    Ideally i'd like to use CAT5 cable to power both over 4 of the wires (the other 4 will be used for serial comms) which is why i wanted to run as high a voltage as i could.

    I wanted to avoid the mains if it meant i needed someone else to do it for me to keep it legit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    2011 wrote: »
    What do you mean by "keeping within the bounds of what i'm allowed to do"?

    As far as I know there is nothing in the Restricted Works Decision Paper about 12 or 24V supplies somehow being exempt (if that is what you mean).

    The work will still have to comply with ET101, be carried out by a registered electrical contractor and be certified.




    Have a read of the Restricted Works Decision Paper (link above), that should clear it up for you.

    Leaving the Restricted Works aside, this is really not a good idea.
    As SpaceTime has stated above there are risks and disadvantages associated with a 12 or 24V distribution system. This is why it never "caught on".

    What i meant was if the regulations somewhere said that anything below X volts fails out of the bounds of requiring the work to be completed by a registered electrician then this is what i'd work with.

    By setting up my own system to run parallel to the mains i would be free to do as i wish with it. Once i had an electrician install my 12/24/48v transformer that is.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    What i meant was if the regulations somewhere said that anything below X volts fails out of the bounds of requiring the work to be completed by a registered electrician then this is what i'd work with.

    The regulations do not cover this, the Restricted Works paper above does.
    If there is an exemption you will find it there.
    I would expect that your 24V system will need a mains voltage connection somewhere though (as you appear to have acknowledged).


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    Battery powered and wireless any use ? bit safer than running LV everywhere




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Hi OP, I have had a good think about this.
    I take it all back :)

    Apart from the 230VAC supply I imagine that you would be permitted to run and terminate the cabling you describe. Why? Because alarm installers, satellite installers and network point installers do not have to be registered electrical contractors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,543 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    you can put a three pin plug on it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 707 ✭✭✭jeepers101


    2011 wrote: »
    Apart from the 230VAC supply

    Would that not fall under minor works?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    gctest50 wrote: »
    Battery powered and wireless any use ? bit safer than running LV everywhere

    I'm not completely against wireless but when wired is available i'll go with it. I'll be building this system myself (i'm an electronic engineer) and want complete control over everything. Anyway i'll need to power the sensor nodes too.
    wexie wrote: »

    I'm not using ethernet, i'll be using rs485 serial. As far as i recall PoE works by biasing the data lines and even if i could make it work it doesn't seem to actually solve any issue
    2011 wrote: »
    Hi OP, I have had a good think about this.
    I take it all back :)

    Apart from the 230VAC supply I imagine that you would be permitted to run and terminate the cabling you describe. Why? Because alarm installers, satellite installers and network point installers do not have to be registered electrical contractors.

    Well this is good news then! Alarms are mostly (all?) 24v aren't they?
    jeepers101 wrote: »
    Would that not fall under minor works?

    I had to google that term, it seems the comment i made about "anything not plugged into a socket" is wrong. It looks like adding a transformer or SMPS into an existing circuit would be allowed. I wouldn't mind if i needed to get this done anyway - once i have freedom to work on the LV side


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    Well this is good news then!

    Hopefully!
    I am just giving an opinion.
    Alarms are mostly (all?) 24v aren't they?

    Generally alarms are 12VDC
    I had to google that term, it seems the comment i made about "anything not plugged into a socket" is wrong. It looks like adding a transformer or SMPS into an existing circuit would be allowed. I wouldn't mind if i needed to get this done anyway - once i have freedom to work on the LV side

    "Minor works" do not have to be carried by a registered electrical contractor and are defined in the Restricted Works link above.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    2011 wrote: »
    Hopefully!
    I am just giving an opinion.



    Generally alarms are 12VDC



    "Minor works" do not have to be carried by a registered electrical contractor and are defined in the Restricted Works link above.

    Yeah but your opinion suits me so i'll take it as fact ;)

    It gives a couple of examples of 'minor works' which are far beyond what i would need to do. Although it might give me more scope for converting the 230v supply locally and direct to whatever voltage i need rather than sending this intermediate source from a central location


  • Registered Users Posts: 270 ✭✭liveandnetural




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16



    I've rewound a microwave transformer so it outputs 1.5v at silly amps, thats fun to play with.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    2011 wrote: »
    Apart from the 230VAC supply I imagine that you would be permitted to run and terminate the cabling you describe. Why? Because alarm installers, satellite installers and network point installers do not have to be registered electrical contractors.
    Out of curiosity, is there a cut-off voltage written in stone anywhere?

    I would have guessed 50V and above, as over this figure is deemed to be quite harmful for humans to touch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 378 ✭✭frankmul


    Restricted works decision paper keeps referring to LV systems which are 50 to 1000 v ac, I guess anything below 50 vac is not restricted work.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    frankmul wrote: »
    Restricted works decision paper keeps referring to LV systems which are 50 to 1000 v ac, I guess anything below 50 vac is not restricted work.

    That makes sense alright.

    <50V is "ELV" (Extra Low Voltage)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    cast_iron wrote: »

    I would have guessed 50V and above, as over this figure is deemed to be quite harmful for humans to touch.

    It would want to be a decent few volts above 50 to do much harm. Even 110v is very mild on dry hands.


  • Registered Users Posts: 921 ✭✭✭markad1




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    Bruthal wrote: »
    It would want to be a decent few volts above 50 to do much harm. Even 110v is very mild on dry hands.
    A centre tapped 110V yes, but RMS 110V? If I've termed that right.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    cast_iron wrote: »
    A centre tapped 110V yes, but RMS 110V? If I've termed that right.

    No, the 110v direct. 55v barely perceivable on hands, if at all. 110v is perceivable, but very mild.

    Again, most assume 110v = decent shock. It wont, unless there is a very good contact area, wet hands, etc, and even then it wont approach anything like what 230v will inflict in the same circumstances.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,594 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    markad1 wrote: »

    What about it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    Bruthal wrote: »
    No, the 110v direct. 55v barely perceivable on hands, if at all. 110v is perceivable, but very mild.

    Again, most assume 110v = decent shock. It wont, unless there is a very good contact area, wet hands, etc, and even then it wont approach anything like what 230v will inflict in the same circumstances.
    Is there not an argument in there about the length of time in contact though?

    Say a 110V supply came in contact to the skin and (as you say) the person barely perceived it (if they were drunk or something :) ) and it remained in contact. I think a low current flowing, caused by 110V contact, over time will eventually lead to serious harm to tissue and the nervous system.

    It's a rather theoretical argument, but I think it's the logic behind the 50V number.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    cast_iron wrote: »
    Is there not an argument in there about the length of time in contact though?

    Say a 110V supply came in contact to the skin and (as you say) the person barely perceived it (if they were drunk or something :) ) and it remained in contact. I think a low current flowing, caused by 110V contact, over time will eventually lead to serious harm to tissue and the nervous system.

    It's a rather theoretical argument, but I think it's the logic behind the 50V number.

    Not all theoretical. Got 110v before, ammeter, you can work out the rest yourself. Couldnt get it to read above 10ma even with wet hands as far as I remember. All in the name of science:)

    It was perceivable, but very mild.

    The 50v number is just a voltage they deem safe. There are other hazards to a given voltage besides direct shock hazard, but its likely it is purely on that basis that it is the level picked. Id guess the people who decide these things would have the same assumptions as most when it comes to electrical shocks at given voltages.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Not all theoretical. Got 110v before, ammeter, you can work out the rest yourself. Couldnt get it to read above 10ma even with wet hands as far as I remember. All in the name of science:)

    It was perceivable, but very mild.
    To you yes, with your big, leathery, old man hands :D
    I would imagine a small child would probably perceive more than that. And a shock directly across the chest. And domestic pets, etc would have different body resistances.

    There's a table I remember being taught that gave the current readings a body could take and the damage inflicted over different time scales of exposure to the current flowing. I forget the figure now though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    cast_iron wrote: »
    To you yes, with your big, leathery, old man hands :D
    :)
    No leathery hands here. Small hands that look like they never did any work. There was added water as well.
    I would imagine a small child would probably perceive more than that. And a shock directly across the chest.
    A 12v battery terminal in each hand would have current flowing across the chest too. A child might be more at risk from a given current level, but unlikely to receive any more of a dangerous shock from 110 volts than anyone else.
    And domestic pets, etc would have different body resistances.
    Hard for them to have a 110v line in each hand though:pac:
    There's a table I remember being taught that gave the current readings a body could take and the damage inflicted over different time scales of exposure to the current flowing. I forget the figure now though.
    Water is a toxin at a certain amount taken, actually acts as a toxin. Takes a fair bit of effort to bring it to effect though.

    And alcohol, over 2 units a day and damage is done. Thats the way it goes though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 378 ✭✭frankmul


    cast_iron wrote: »
    To you yes, with your big, leathery, old man hands :D
    I would imagine a small child would probably perceive more than that. And a shock directly across the chest. And domestic pets, etc would have different body resistances.

    There's a table I remember being taught that gave the current readings a body could take and the damage inflicted over different time scales of exposure to the current flowing. I forget the figure now though.


    Some thing along these lines, https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/construction/electrical_incidents/eleccurrent.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 921 ✭✭✭markad1


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    In each room there'll be a remote radiator valve which operates on 24v ac/dc and has a startup current of 250mA and operational on 125mA. There will also be a sensor node which i hope will be in the region of 100mA @ 5v.

    Ideally i'd like to use CAT5 cable to power both over 4 of the wires (the other 4 will be used for serial comms) which is why i wanted to run as high a voltage as i could.

    I wanted to avoid the mains if it meant i needed someone else to do it for me to keep it legit.
    2011 wrote: »
    What about it?

    In answer to the cable he could use.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    markad1 wrote: »
    In answer to the cable he could use.

    Perhaps a quote of the poster in the reply to help them see.


Advertisement