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If You were Building : BER Rating Advice

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  • 20-03-2014 4:16pm
    #1
    househero
    Registered Users Posts: 1,094 ✭✭✭


    If you were building a BRAND NEW home, 2 story, 2000sq ft+

    What would you make sure was being spec'ed in, to make sure it gets a strong BER rating (low A or high B).

    Taking in to consideration the practical COST of the materials/installation, against the running benefits over a few years.
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    #2
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 41,590 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    househero wrote: »
    If you were building a BRAND NEW home, 2 story, 2000sq ft+

    What would you make sure was being spec'ed in, to make sure it gets a strong BER rating (low A or high B).

    Taking in to consideration the practical COST of the materials/installation, against the running benefits over a few years.


    baseline minimum building regulation standards at the moment are low A's or high B's.....

    a "strong" BER would be A2 upwards.


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    #3
    househero
    Registered Users Posts: 1,094 ✭✭✭househero


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    baseline minimum building regulation standards at the moment are low A's or high B's.....

    a "strong" BER would be A2 upwards.

    So what would you be costing in to your build to achieve a high rating?


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    #4
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 41,590 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    househero wrote: »
    So what would you be costing in to your build to achieve a high rating?


    Thats a hugely open question.

    I analysis plans and prepare specifications to comply.
    There a myriad of ways to reach whatever rating you want.


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    #5
    Drift
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,395 ✭✭✭Drift


    Hi OP get your house designer to check the MPCPC and MPEPC of the building to make sure they meet the current building regulations. You'll find that the cost of the items that need to be included to get to this level will more than likely frighten you out of going any further (i.e getting a better rating) especially on a relatively big one off house.

    There are a lot of different items that can be included in your designs to meet the regulations. None of them are cheap!!!

    (That might be simplifying it a bit much because when it comes to things like air-tightness good detailing on site costs nothing but time ..... although time is money)


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    #6
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    Thats a hugely open question.
    There a myriad of ways to reach whatever rating you want.
    agreed ridiculous broad question, but a fun one
    househero wrote: »
    1. If you were building a BRAND NEW home, 2 story, 2000sq ft+
    2. What would you make sure was being spec'ed in, to make sure it gets a strong BER rating (low A or high B).
    3. Taking in to consideration the practical COST of the materials/installation, against the running benefits over a few years.

    1. i would design and limit the 4bed, two storey with living/kitchen/dining/utility to 1500sqft with an absolute min circulation space. a great challenge.
    2. glazed southerly aspect TG 0.8wm2k min, some double height space,simple clean lines, everything completely whitesmile.png,polished concrete floors 0.1w/m2k EPS, oak frame & strawbale or hemplime walls 0.15w/m2k min, slate roof 0.1w/m2k cellulose, with some form of solar array,small pellet boiler(or maybe HP), 1kl thermal store with Ground Floor UFH only and small stylish wood stove to look at.
    3. how many years payback considered in design & costing? id be using the best natural sustainable materials, designing for absolutely zero running costs, hoping to live in it till i die.
    'A1 Sharon' to boast to the neighbours!:D


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    #7
    househero
    Registered Users Posts: 1,094 ✭✭✭househero


    Bryan gets it.

    Just to be clear, The house is NOT real. Its a 'what would you do' question, balancing building costs with ongoing running costs. If you disagree with somebody else's choice you can suggest a better option, or show that it will not pay off or be inefficient.


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    #8
    beauf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 22,648 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    What a "min circulation space".


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    #9
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 41,590 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    househero wrote: »
    Bryan gets it.

    Just to be clear, The house is NOT real. Its a 'what would you do' question, balancing building costs with ongoing running costs. If you disagree with somebody else's choice you can suggest a better option, or show that it will not pay off or be inefficient.

    From this point of view, I
    would build a small dwelling, wide cavity 250mm, standard spec throughout with a high degree of detailing to limit thermal bridges and to ensure excellent air tightness. Triple glazing everywhere.

    The jewel in the crown would be a small 15kw ish manual feed wood stove to heat space and hot water. Virtual no expensive heating Controls required. 200 litre highly insulated cylinder, standard rads all trvs.


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    #10
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    beauf wrote: »
    What a "min circulation space".

    Minimum/ minimise circulation space ie corridors etc


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    #11
    beauf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 22,648 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    Ah thanks. I thought it was something to do with head space and moving air. But what you say makes sense.


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    #12
    Dardania
    Registered Users Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭Dardania


    As the other posters have said (good thermal properties, polished concrete floors, simple stoves etc.) plus I would optimise the sunlight infiltration, around the times of day I'll be in the house, or BBQ'ing out the back


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    #13
    galwaytt
    Registered Users Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    200 m2.
    4 bed.
    1 ensuite max & 1 main bathroom
    MHRV
    Fewer rooms in toto, but those you have, bigger.
    Monopitch roof.
    Simple plan but better materials.
    Offsite build.
    Simple mechanicals but keeping UFH.
    Room sealed stove/fireplace of some kind.

    oh, and, stick to the budget !! Making changes mid-plan is usually the wrong thing to do !!

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