Screw on master cylinder seized.

HamSambo

Any ideas on how to shift a corroded screw that has embedded itself into the lid of the brake fluid reservoir. Shes stuck in there good, last numpty never greased the threads after topping up the brake fluid. Shes an 05 bandit 6.

I have tried everything to the point of using a punch and a few taps of a hammer but that wont even start it. Needles to say, the screwhead is in ribbons at this stage.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

aaakev

Easy outs will have t out handy for ya. Get em in the motor factors

HamSambo

Thanks for such a fast reply!
Think i'll head over there before 6 cheers!

doctorchopper

left hand drive drill bits would be better there, the screws a small diameter so will be hard to drill it and get the easy out in, plus easy outs are easy to break and near impossible to get out when they do break

Wonda-Boy

Soaked in wd40 or the like for a little bit would make it move....Id go down the softer route before I go in hard with drills etc. Its a flimsy area to be drilling TBH.

CJhaughey

Drill the head off with a small drill once its off take the cover off and soak the area in ATF mixded with a little acetone.
Then you can get a big set of vice-grips tightly on the stub and work it back and forwards, once you get any sort of movement keep working it and slowly wind it out.
If the vicegrips slip then you will have to use heat to break the bond, heat the bolt until it is red hot and then try and work it out again.

doctorchopper

CJhaughey wrote: »

Drill the head off with a small drill once its off take the cover off and soak the area in ATF mixded with a little acetone.
Then you can get a big set of vice-grips tightly on the stub and work it back and forwards, once you get any sort of movement keep working it and slowly wind it out.
If the vicegrips slip then you will have to use heat to break the bond, heat the bolt until it is red hot and then try and work it out again.

Drill with left hand drill bits 90% of the time screw will back out, if not then use the above method, I take hundreds of screws out of panels on a daily bases and this is by far the best first approach as most other ways you are drilling anyway so you have nothing to lose and it usually works youtube it

Hotblack Desiato

People think WD40 is penetrating oil, it's not, it's really only a surface corrosion inhibitor.
Try Plusgas for cases like this.

Cedrus

ninja900 wrote: »

People think WD40 is penetrating oil, it's not, it's really only a surface corrosion inhibitor.
Try Plusgas for cases like this.

The WD stands for Water Displacement, it was developed to drive condensation out from behind the heat proofing tiles on rockets/shuttles. So it does penetrate, there are better ones but I have no idea where you have got this 'surface corrosion' notion from, of course, like any oil it will do that too.

minidazzler

Before you take them out, buy these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-ZZR600-1100-1200-X2-Stainless-Steel-Screws-Brake-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-/251477136634?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3a8d3494fa Worth every cent.

Hotblack Desiato

Cedrus wrote: »

The WD stands for Water Displacement, it was developed to drive condensation out from behind the heat proofing tiles on rockets/shuttles. So it does penetrate, there are better ones but I have no idea where you have got this 'surface corrosion' notion from, of course, like any oil it will do that too.

Tiles? :pac:

Shuttles? :pac: it was invented in the 1950s.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin, and more importantly, the paper thin "balloon tanks" of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.[3][4] These stainless steel fuel tanks were so thin that, when empty, they had to be kept inflated with nitrogen gas to prevent their collapse.

Cedrus

ninja900 wrote: »

Tiles? :pac:

Shuttles? :pac: it was invented in the 1950s.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

Wikipedia?????
Mwahahahaha

Hotblack Desiato

http://wd40.com/about-us/history/